jgrav8

Hi Everyone. New forum member here.

I have a 2003 TL type S that now has both low beam HID headlights in need of replacement. They both turned purple and ultimately stopped working within a few weeks of each other.

I did read the DIY on removing HID lights and this does help. In looking at my driver's side, it looks like there are two plastic pieces (possibly for air flow) that have to come out. The owner's manual seems to suggest that the radiator overflow tank has to be removed.

I guess what I really need to know is do I have to take all of them out and is there an amount of time I need to have the headlights off for the circuit to discharge. The black cover mentioned in the DIY has a warning -- I'm not sure if this is standard or if there is some other precaution.

One last thing. I found what look to be the correct replacement bulbs (HID-D2R) on e-bay for around $45 each. This is far and away the best price I have been able to find and naturally I am concerned I don't have the correct part.

The link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PHILI...Q5fAccessories

Is there any known concern using the Phillips instead of Sylvania?

Thanks for any direction you can provide.

ZEUS'O3TL

Phillips is a better brand along with Kaixen imo.....check wit our vendor Excelerate, he has the Kaixens for 109 shipped and go with 5K....and yes u can use D2R or D2C for direct replacement...

bonknhead

I bought my Phillips 4300k D2Rs new from eBay last year for $80 shipped. They've been great - no problems at all. They were easy to install using Kris' (fsttyms1) DIY. IIRC, I wasn't concerned about discharge time since I changed the bulbs on a weekend morning after my car sat all night. The warning on the black covers is just cautionary - take your time, 'cause it's a pretty DIY.

acutee

Don't forget to disconnect the power source behind the headlight before pulling everything apart.

01tl4tl

wear rubber/latex glove handling the new bulbs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
finger oil causes a hot spot and early bulb failure

the funky screws holding the back cover are Torx #20 SECURITY tip, not the standard torx 20,,parts store for a few bucks
or dremel a flat blade cut into the screws..

Pull the old bulbs out and note the position of the external electrode rod
make sure the new one goes in straight- no twisting at all and the rod is in the same place
hold the bulb backing and install the locking clip

Audiovibe-Mike

when you put the twisting cover back onto the housing apply a small amount of lubricant to the rubber seal. I dont know about you guys but mine was a bitch to get off, took me probly like half an hour of just twisting and turning that stupid cover before it popped off. that was the first time in 10 years its ever come off so it was very stiff. A little lube on there will make it super easy to take of in the future.

also did anyone else say this

open<.....>open
it said to turn in both directions. so it took a while to know which way to turn it aswell. what a pain in the ass, all because it was stuck and stiff.
so ya lube it up a little bit.

crazyasiantl

iTrader: (7)

for the left side, i just had to remove the intake box, not the overflow tank. the kaixen 6000k look good and ALWAYS wear gloves

JM604

For the driver's side, does the intake box simply pull out after removing the two screws closer to the outside of the hood? Mine seem to be stripped so I couldn't get it removed... how would you recommend getting it off?

Thanks

acutee

Removing the reservoir is to make room, but you don't have to. I didn't have to remove any screws. Once the top layer cover is removed, there are 2 push pins you need to remove, 1. the angle shield on the right of the reservoir, pull that up after the push pin has been removed. 2. use a long nose pliers and remove another push pin( behind the headlight, and below) that holds down the second plastic shield, then pull that up and out too. Now you should be able to open the back of your headlight.

JM604

Acutee, thanks for your reply.

The part I was asking about is in the pic below (held down by the circled screws). You're saying this does not need to be removed? You said something about a "top layer cover". Is this the piece shown on the left side of the picture? I tried pulling that off, but stopped because I was scared of breaking something. What's the best way to take it off?

Thanks again, and sorry for the noob questions.

crazyasiantl

iTrader: (7)

i used a ratchet with a metric 10 or 12 attachment to get the screws out

gold2003tl (90)

yea those air box screws are on there tight, and go with 6000k bulbs

acutee

You don't need to remove the air box. That is right, you need to remove the top layer on the left of that picture, that layer goes across to the other end. just remove the push pins and remove it, that simple. Under that top layer cover, you will need to remove other 2 pieces, the left piece next to reservoir, just pull it up, the right one, use long nose pliers to remove the bottom push pin, and you can pull that up too. now you should be able to have access to the back circle cap of the headlight; disconnect power, you will need to remove the torx t20 screw first before the cap can be removed.

ZEUS'O3TL

damn i never realized the type-s didnt have that horn looking thing sticking up in front of the airbox like it does on my tl-p...thats why i said screw it and gave myself a free mod..Intake-resonator delete FTW!!!

jgrav8

Hi again and thanks to everyone who contributed to my original post. I also have to credit the DIY note as it helped to guide me.

I replaced the HID bulbs today and both function as expected. For those who may be reading this and need to try, my advice would be to start on the passenger side. Since you should be replacing both lights at the same time beginning on the passenger side affords you more room. For me, I need to do before I fully comprehend. The only thing I had to move out of the way there was the washer fluid tank (and I probably could have worked around it).

The driver's side is considerably more difficult given the equipment that is mounted there.

For the record, the dealership quoted me $230 for EACH light to be replaced. I ordered the parts from eBay (about $45 per light) and it took around an hour start to finish - and yes I used the latex gloves. The only tool I didn't have at the beginning of this was the #20 Torx security bit.

Thanks again.

sonnytris

Thanks for all the help on me making my decision on two DIY projects:
I purchased two oem headlight assemblies in good conition and glass is clear like new for 150 for both.
I am looking to purchase two sylvania or osarm hid d2r and do both at the same time???/
My dealer in san antonio tx quoted me 110 to remove original headlight and replace it with my used oem light and will change out the bulb for me for a total cost of 220 but I must purchase my hid bulb thru him for 177 each or find my own phillips.
Can we find the osram on our own? the parts guy said that they call for Osram for factory replacement bulb at the the dealer for 177 each? is there a big difference between phillips and the osram? big decision to make????????/

Is This Country Great or What

Ronmarr1

I got the driver's side replaced fine -
Electrical plug on the passenger side is frozen.
Not sure what to do.

3.2TL-Fan

Hi, I replaced the HID bulb, high beam, balast, HID wire igniter, but HID flickers then it dies. High beam does not light up at all. What am missing? Any help will be appreciated. TIA

Pair of TLs

Check your ground wires.

3.2TL-Fan

sorry I am new at this, how do I check grounding of wires? On the aftermarket HID igniter, is the optional wire the ground wire ?
thank you Pair

Pair of TLs

ASSUMING you did everything right, try wiggling the wires and see if that works.

3.2TL-Fan

Problem solved, it was a bad fuse, #20 (yellow) the one that controls the passenger side headlight. Good thing fuse box came with a spare fuse.
Thank you again 👍