Ernest72

So my wife got a new car and I am taking over the TL. Got it in 05 from my In-laws off a lease with low miles. Car has been great, with pretty much no issues. All the maintenance has been done so it's good to go. The car drives great, original motor, trans and suspension.

So my other car is an 04 WRX that I have modded over the last 12 years. That car is a blast. In order to keep the miles low on the WRX I will be driving the TL more.

Just like you guys I can't just leave the car alone. The only mods I have done is the resonator delete and K&N panel filter. I would like to upgrade some suspension and maybe exhaust but as a second car I really need to be cheap. So no 1000 catback or 1000 suspension setup. I need to do this cheap and I can do it over time. I have no intentions of getting rid of the car as its in great condition for its age. Currently has stock wheels as well. Just looking for ideas. Is it worth getting any cheap used parts off a salvage Type-s or just look for used aftermarket parts. Also, I pretty much do most of my own work so labor is not an issue. When you have two cars it's easy to take one apart. Thanks.

Skirmich

You want exhaust for Performance or for Sound?
If you Want Performance? You can go Full Custom Catback for around 700 bucks or 500 bucks depending if it is mandrel bent or not.
If you Want Sound? JUST get Straight Pipes! It sounds pretty nice but the TL-p gets a little drone.

Suspension:
This is easy! The only system ranging in the 1Ks are the Double Dampening Coil-overs. You can have a decent system with springs and shocks for 500 bucks! if you want shocks with dampening settings then its a 700 bucks system with the only drawback of not being able to select ride height.

You can Salvage the sway bars out of the TL-S which are ticker than the TL-p and for cheap! Aftermarket is obviously better but those can set you back a couple of benjamins while Salvaged TL-S Sways can be bought for much less.

Any other question?

Ernest72

Thanks. Is the drone bad if I go straight pipes but keep the resonator and mid muffler?

I will upgrade to just springs and shocks, any suggestions. Nothing that will hurt the comfort level too much, my WRX is loud and stiff enough so I don't need another stiff ride.

Sways I will look for some used type s. Thanks.

01tl4tl

It will ride like the wrx on $500 suspension
Better to spend the money on a lower frame cross-brace, about 100$ and attaches across the frame where it splits into the engine cradle
Gives the suspension a solid place to do its work. eliminates body roll into corners

Additional upper frame cross brace improves what the OE bar started, and holds upper suspension point in a steady place
but that lower should be the next thing after res delete on a TL!
Cusco makes both, ck online or our sponsoring vendor MrHeelToe carries them

01tl4tl

rather than mess with the exhaust right now, a lightweight crankshaft pulley is a major improvement in how fast the engine revs
Stock part weighs 12 pounds! on the rotating external end of the crankshaft

The aluminum billet (CNC cut from a block of aluminum) part is 1 pound 8 ounces (might be 1.12 oz)
10 pounds off the rotating mass!! Can you say Vroooom Vroooom into the power band of VTEC rpm

Those with it always wonder why they waited so long? a shop will install for half-hour of labor, need big air gun to get the main bolt off, and a special Honda tool is helpful in old part removal,
thats something to ask the shop/actual tech- do you have the crank pulley holder tool??

ck ebay for store name or similar type parts by BOMZ, if there is no listing for the TL just message them and they will hook you up..cant list every part all the time

01tl4tl

`frees up` about 5 hp by allowing engine to rev so easily

Ernest72

Thanks. Appreciate the help.

01tl4tl

have a look in our diy list for cheap mods for fun or appearance or pleasure
Plus maintenance and performance

Ernest72

I did already. Trying not to do too much because this is a disease for me. I already have a project car in my WRX that i constantly look for things to improve. But I need to do them sensibly because I want the cars to last as well. The TL is just an extra car for us right now (currently have 4 cars, no payments). The insurance is just 500 a year because no collision with the high miles and the book value of the car. Plus its in great condition and drive perfect. So i am trying to mod it but do it on the cheap with used or salvaged parts. I have learned through my WRX where I bought every aftermarket part new. I could have saved a lot of money with some patience and searching for used parts or good deals. Also save some money for other hobbies.

01tl4tl

did you look in our parts sales section, the black market?
only members can post items, new or used. One section is for sponsoring vendors- the other for us- as members.

basic maintenance is in the diy, nearly free things like clean and lube the brake assemblies, flush the brake fluid, start a trans fluid change (more expensive but needed)

low cost mods to go with the lower frame cross brace would be new end links and new main bushings in polyurethane for the sway bars
Really tightens the car without making it bounce

My wife thinks the lower frame brace is the best thing ever done, it makes her ride easier, going into cloverleaf freeway ramps = no opposite body roll..her clutching the door handle

Ernest72

I think my order right now is this:

1. Check motor mounts - they are known to go. All other maintenance is done.
2. Lower brace
3. Upgrade sways, endlinks, bushing.
4. Shocks, struts
5. Straight pipe exhaust or some other axleback for sound.

Thanks for your help.

01tl4tl

the front and pass side are most common motor mount failures with front going in 75kmiles!
front and rear mounts are both vac boosted and oil filled units = expensive ~150$
You can get solid poly mounts but we are back to comfort loss with them

run a vac ck on front mount and look for slight oil drops on ground or traces of oil/dirt attracted to mount from leak
Will make car run bad too! vac leak!!!

side mount is typical full rubber mount, ck with prybar and visual

01tl4tl

unless you know the brake fluid was flushed in the last 12 months go ahead and do that NOW
May as well pull the brakes totally apart for lube of motion points-sliders etc

Needed every 2 years, or sooner if you use a car wash which blast away that important grease (use brake caliper grease)
and the park brake shoes need cleaning- lube springs and the `self adjusters`,,they are inside the rear rotors large hub! plenty of DIY on the subject
An easier job on the TL is hard to find~

new brake fluid solves many probs like shake under braking, or weak pedal, or mushy pedal that gets better with 2 quick pumps of brake pedal

NOTE special TL bleed/flush order is LF RF RR LR that's driver front then clockwise around the car from driver view- due to abs plumbing its not like an older car with order

Ernest72

Thanks. Brakes are good to go. Did that 6 months ago. I may go solid poly motor mounts. I love my group n mounts in my Subie. I need to do a search, a see that xlr8 has poly mounts for 300. I wonder if there are some cheaper alternatives.

01tl4tl

you don't need to replace every single mount! there are 5 total
Get whats broken, if that problem is found,

the rubber mounts offer far better dampening than poly,,in keeping with the smooth aspects of the TL that you want
Ours actually use the vac feature to stiffen the mount on acceleration to reduce engine movement, while making it idle like a 200hp sewing machine