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My 2006 RL is definitely getting ever bouncier as it ages, so I'm wondering if the answer is new shocks/struts, new springs, different tires next time (Cinturato P7), or simply live with it and ride it out? It seems like the car is both riding more stiffly and see-sawing more over bumps, and San Diego's roads are really, really terrible.
I'd like to keep the car as long as possible -- it has about 90000 miles, but between the shocks and the occasional headlight flicker it seems like it could be getting into expensive territory.
Has anyone done a shock/strut/spring replacement? If so, what was done, how much, and did it make a difference (plus was it worth it)?
Don't take this the wrong way, but San Diego's roads are great compared to anywhere in the rust best. In my experience, it's a lot of dips in the road, but practically no potholes at all....
Springs aren't really a replacement item, what you'd be looking at would be struts/shocks alone. Unfortunately, you really only have two options there KYB (only in the front) and OEM. I've heard Sachs struts area thing as well, but I can't speak to those. If you go OEM, I would stick with an online Acura dealer. We do have a few vendors that are Acura dealers on Acurazine and I know they offer a small discount for us. Hope that helps!
My 2008 RL became bouncy at about 110k. I have recently replaced the front and rear shock obsorbers in addition to new p7 plus tires. It drives like new again. I bought the parts on an acura wholesale site for about $670 shipped. use code Acurazine for 5% off. Needless to say, I will keep this car until it is no longer economical to keep. Still loving the car after many years of ownership.
For you, I'd imagine replacing the shocks would definitely improve the car's ride. I went with OEM because it has been proven to last 100k, KYB is the next best thing, but certainly wont last 100k.
projectvertx -- I haven't been to the midwest, but many of San Diego's roads are now littered with potholes and have been for years. They've deferred regular maintenance, so they patch here and there, and they've outsourced much of the work to the lowest bidders with predictable results. When it rains, new potholes emerge everywhere and don't get fixed. There are streets in my neighborhood that haven't been seriously maintained in 20+ years. The whoop-de-doos are mostly for drainage, and can be pretty common at many intersections. If your midwest roads are as bad or worse, then you absolutely have my sympathy! Bad roads are a hazard because you have to focus on the "road", avoiding the ruts and upheavals, instead of focusing on "the road".
HDNBenjamin -- How much was the installation cost, and who did the work? I've been pretty religious in taking my car to the dealer (as I did with my '95 Legend until I sold it to a friend who also took it to the same dealer). I've got the P7s on my 18" A-Spec style wheels -- which probably adds to the firmness factor of the ride.
Installation costed $350 through a friend who used to work for Honda. I probably could have done it myself, but I was crunch for time. Anywho, the rear shocks are a bit more time consuming because it requires the removal of the rear seats.
I'd suugest you find an independent mechanic or talk to a mechanic at Acura or Honda and ask the person if he or she is willing to do it for you on the side. A lot of mechanics take side jobs for a lot less. It doesn't hurt to ask.
I brought the car to the shop to have them look at the suspension, but I'm sensing reluctance on their part about the shocks needing replacement. I took the car for a ride with the shop foreman, but could find neither a road, nor go at speeds fast enough, to really demonstrate the hobby-horsing over bumps and harshness over bumps. Plus it seems to ride better when its warm, which it is today.
The car has ~93K on the odometer, I've owned it since new, and the ride was harsh enough that my significant other made comment as we traversed our less than stellar roadways. Certainly, the roads are a contributor, but I don't remember the car ever being so harsh or bouncy.
They're going to inspect for leaks and such, but I'm also wondering if there's some objective criteria that can diagnose bad shocks/struts? Something like a compression or rebound test more advanced than leaning on the fender. I'm hesitant to force them to do the work if its not a solution -- like unnecessary surgery!
At 93k the likelihood of your shocks needing to be replaced is 90% I'd say. Your shocks may not be leaking but it is a wear and tear item. Mine did not leak. So, if you want to save money, just buy KYB shocks, and bring it to an independent shop and have them install it for you. If you have money to spare then buy OEM. You can buy KYB shocks for $325 shipped on Ebay for all four. I paid like $670 for OEM, but KYB is the next best thing.
Well, the struts have been replaced (along with a host of other work) and the ride is MUCH improved. No longer do bumps feel like small kidney punches, and dips don't make the car seem like a low rider with a hydraulic bounce system. Granted I've only driven from the garage back to work, but I could feel (and hear) the difference over freeway dots, manhole covers, and some of the ruts and potholes that litter San Diego roads.
Other work included the timing belt, drive belts, spark plugs, water pump, oil change, alignment, and new oil pump seal. Given the somewhat recent alternator replacement, and new driver & passenger airbags, I'm hoping the car will comfortably go another 100K.
As much as I enjoyed the 2018 V6 TLX they gave me while they did the work, I was happy to get back into my RL. You can just tell where they put extra thought into so many things in this car.
Well, the struts have been replaced (along with a host of other work) and the ride is MUCH improved. No longer do bumps feel like small kidney punches, and dips don't make the car seem like a low rider with a hydraulic bounce system. Granted I've only driven from the garage back to work, but I could feel (and hear) the difference over freeway dots, manhole covers, and some of the ruts and potholes that litter San Diego roads.
Other work included the timing belt, drive belts, spark plugs, water pump, oil change, alignment, and new oil pump seal. Given the somewhat recent alternator replacement, and new driver & passenger airbags, I'm hoping the car will comfortably go another 100K.
As much as I enjoyed the 2018 V6 TLX they gave me while they did the work, I was happy to get back into my RL. You can just tell where they put extra thought into so many things in this car.
Rob144
Seems like you hit all the 100K items! Glad everything is back in order.
I've had KYB's in the front now for approximately 6 months. The ride has been very nice. Good price/performance ratio.
Getting ready to install them in the rear in the next week or so, assuming winter here in the NE can finally just give up and go away!
Does anyone have a link to the doc that outlines how to lift out the rear interior deck? I can probably start poking and lifing/twisting, but would rather not break any tabs by accident. Rear Suspension doc references another document, which I think must be about removal/installation of interior trim panels which we don't have that document in the Garage
Wow...That's quite a lot of interior trim pulled out. Are you installing new audio?
Do the rear seats need to come out just to lift up/out the rear deck? I only need access to the upper shock mounts. I see the deck lid must be held in with those white plastic panel clips. Thankfully I have a whole bag of those left over from when I had to pull my door panels off.
i cant find the thread but removing the rear seat was part of the process - so i just did it. Its super easy tho - it just lifts up after you take out the bolts on the bottom. the seat also has a electrical connection on the drivers side you need to unhook
I originally removed it all so i could see how to top mount my amp in the trunk. Ended up removing the stock sub while i was in there and the holes that held the sub in worked pretty good.
i cant find the thread but removing the rear seat was part of the process - so i just did it. Its super easy tho - it just lifts up after you take out the bolts on the bottom. the seat also has a electrical connection on the drivers side you need to unhook
I originally removed it all so i could see how to top mount my amp in the trunk. Ended up removing the stock sub while i was in there and the holes that held the sub in worked pretty good.
Did you replacethe sub? If yes, details please.....
When you say bouncy, did the suspension become softer?
I feel that mine is really hard when there is potholes and bad road surface. Rides good otherwise.
Is it possible I need new struts when the ride is to hard?
I have a vibration when I break at 40 mph only. The rotors and pads are brand new, less than 4 months old.
I have heard about the struts which are less than 2 years old, STAGG brand...won't do that again, but if new they shouldn't feel like there was no difference btw the old ones that were removed.
A possible CV Boot issue.
Any other ideas??
10-11-2017, 12:07 PM
