I-026: Aftermarket Sub and Amp Installed.......alot of pics
#1
I-026: Aftermarket Sub and Amp Installed.......alot of pics
I've wanted to install a sub in this car since I got it. I like the factory setup but always desired more on the low end. So a few weeks ago I purchased an RE Audio mono block amp; 1 ohm stable, 800 watts at 14.4 volts and an RE Audio 12" sub; 600 watts RMS 2 ohm DVC. I had never used RE Audio before but purchased the set up cheaply from sonicelectronics.com. I did some research and found that they used to be called US Amps which I had heard many good thing about. Credit goes to 007spy for his install thread and farabeast on cardomain for the info on running the amp power wire. On to the install.
First thing I did was take the floor board trim and the b post molding off.
Front:
b pillar:
Back:
The following pictures are how I ran my power wire through the firewall using farabeast method.
Removed the place where your foots rests. Pops right out.
[IMG]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy313/coopcoop28/sub/IMG_2007_zpsec8f71de.jpg{/IMG]
These next pictures are of the hole the power line will be run through.
There is an exit hole about 2 inches on the right side after you enter this firewall hole. I turned my flashlight off and guided this thin white wire through that hole using the light that was shining through. It might be the easiest way to do it. Then I taped the white wire to my power wire and pulled it right through on the first try. I tried to get a picture of where the white wire came out but it came out crappy.
Then ran the power wire down the length of the car.
Took the back seat out. Thanks 007 spy. Made the install much easier.
Next up all the wiring. Again credit goes to 007spy.
I attached my line out converter on this section of the trunk.
The last 2 pictures are the completed install. Sorry for the horrible quality. It was dark outside and I'm using my phone. I haven't had a chance to tune the system yet but I'm loving it.
First thing I did was take the floor board trim and the b post molding off.
Front:
b pillar:
Back:
The following pictures are how I ran my power wire through the firewall using farabeast method.
Removed the place where your foots rests. Pops right out.
[IMG]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy313/coopcoop28/sub/IMG_2007_zpsec8f71de.jpg{/IMG]
These next pictures are of the hole the power line will be run through.
There is an exit hole about 2 inches on the right side after you enter this firewall hole. I turned my flashlight off and guided this thin white wire through that hole using the light that was shining through. It might be the easiest way to do it. Then I taped the white wire to my power wire and pulled it right through on the first try. I tried to get a picture of where the white wire came out but it came out crappy.
Then ran the power wire down the length of the car.
Took the back seat out. Thanks 007 spy. Made the install much easier.
Next up all the wiring. Again credit goes to 007spy.
I attached my line out converter on this section of the trunk.
The last 2 pictures are the completed install. Sorry for the horrible quality. It was dark outside and I'm using my phone. I haven't had a chance to tune the system yet but I'm loving it.
The following 3 users liked this post by coopcoop30:
#2
Senior Moderator
I wish I would have know the foot rest trick.
Thanks for sharing. Enjoy.
Gotta get that *BOOM* *BOOM*...
Oh yeah, :nb4tehmove:.
EDIT: You don't have a flush top battery.
Thanks for sharing. Enjoy.
Gotta get that *BOOM* *BOOM*...
Oh yeah, :nb4tehmove:.
EDIT: You don't have a flush top battery.
Last edited by oo7spy; 01-19-2013 at 10:15 PM.
#4
007spy I hate that the battery isn't flush mount. When I bought the car that's what came with it. On top of that it was installed only a few months prior. So I'm stuck with it for a while.
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#10
#13
#14
#15
Fiberglass isnt needed completely unless you really want to go that route. The best performance i have found was with removing the factory sub in the deck lid and firing the sub(s) into the ported deck lid. Ive been through a few setups in the car and im currently running a single 10" Sundown sub and Audioque mono for power. I went the RE route too which is a great choice by the way but i got bored with it. If your looking for ideas for performance that might be an option, if your looking for more looks then fiberglass is nice but shit its itchy. Good luck either way and i agree with the matching carpet comment as i couldnt find anything for a perfect match to our trunks to i redid the entire thing in black.
#16
Fiberglass isnt needed completely unless you really want to go that route. The best performance i have found was with removing the factory sub in the deck lid and firing the sub(s) into the ported deck lid. Ive been through a few setups in the car and im currently running a single 10" Sundown sub and Audioque mono for power. I went the RE route too which is a great choice by the way but i got bored with it. If your looking for ideas for performance that might be an option, if your looking for more looks then fiberglass is nice but shit its itchy. Good luck either way and i agree with the matching carpet comment as i couldnt find anything for a perfect match to our trunks to i redid the entire thing in black.
Never went with RE before but have been impressed so far with the price/sound quality of it. I hate to work with fiberglass and I question if it even sounds as good as MDF. Just an option. I read your thread a while ago and I was impressed with what you did. Overall I'm happy with the increased low end I have now and it's accurate thanks to the sealed box.
#17
Senior Moderator
The only way I got close to the trunk color was to avoid carpet all together.
#19
Again the credit goes to oo7spy. I used industrial strength velcro from Lowe's. It was difficult to secure because once the velcro catches something. It's hard to get it off. It can be done and I wanted something that wasn't permanent so that if I ever sell the car I can take it out. The box will not and has not moved since i installed it. Velcro.
#20
4th Gear
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Spring Hill Florida
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Hey I was just wondering if you could give me more clear directions to were I tap into the factory amp on the 2005 to hook up simple amp and sub. I have power wire and turn on as well as the ground all completed. I have the converter and was going to hook it to the back sub. But I see everyone connecting it through the factory amp.
Thanks again
Thanks again
#21
Senior Moderator
The following users liked this post:
HEAVY_RL (02-12-2015)
#25
Anybody else have a horrific rattle? I've pinned it down to what I believe is mainly the roof. I'd love to dynamat or similar the heck out of it but am weary of the srs on the pillars and whatnot. Any advice on what y'all have done? Thanks.
#27
Senior Moderator
You need to unplug the ANC. You can either unplug the mics or the ANC harness at the amp in the trunk. I prefer the harness because it's the easiest to put back. Plenty of info on it here.
Last edited by oo7spy; 11-10-2015 at 02:50 PM.
#28
Racer
#29
Senior Moderator
WTF? "Herbed"? Damn you autocorrect.
Fixed.
Fixed.
#30
So I unplugged it but it still does it. But after a while it stops. And it doesn't do it if my door is open
#31
Senior Moderator
You unplugged what? One mic? Cause there's two, and an open door is a dead give away the ANC is your problem.
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