Karol

I'll try to give as much info as possible:
2005 RL, 80k miles.

first thing was the high pithed sound, like someone was stepping on a mouse (wheeyy wheeyy wheeyy wheeyy) mostly when turrning at slow speed, the sound would accelerate with speed.
so I went after breaks, the rotors were all fine on the outside surface, inside surface all rusted. I changed rotors and pads.
Sound went away for a while. But I started to smell burnt plastic/rubber/insulation sort of smell once a while when stopping at a red light with the driver side window open.
The smell is coming from the driver side rear wheel area. I lifted it up and I could turn the wheel by hand (it was not locked, now I did wait until the car is cool)
than, a week ago i started hearing the wheeeyy, wheeyy sound again. I went home, took out my IR thermometer, 3 rotors where at about 50deg C, the rear driver side was at 200C !!


Are both problems related? high temp on break parts and the noise? Is it the break caliper causing the rotor to heat up or is it something else in the wheel hub heating the rotor (did not look like it as the rim was warmer than normal only by a couple degrees) is there some sort of procedure or trick when changing breaks? I did it myself with non OEM parts, never had problems doing breaks on other cars.

Even is someone doesn't know what exactly the problem is please pin point as what can I check and verify etc - any help is appreciated!

Best Regards
Karol

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

"brake" caliper is probably seized.

Maintenanceman

Just like Heavy says.
There is no easy trick to cure this problem, just take calibers a part, pistons out and clean them, maybe wise to change the seals when putting them back.
This is also very good time to change the brake fluid when you bleed the brakes after the overhaul.

Karol

anyone has a procedure written up for that?

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Unless you are a mechanic, take it somewhere.

If you are, its as simple as any caliper.

Tech-HCS

Just to put out my experience, on my Integra the brakes were all overhauled, but when I pulled my handbrake, passenger side back wheel would stuck, and if I drive it would scratch and get hot, once people pulled me over to tell me that there is smoke from my rear wheel as brake started burning..
Had to drive 10miles like that to mechanic, just to find out it was rusted spring that didn't pull back the handbrake cable when I released the handbrake little bit of WD-40 and forceful movement did the job.
dunno if it's of any help..but it sound so similar..only the car's are totally different..

Karol

I was bored on my way to work this morning so I shot you guys a movie so you can listen yourself



when taking the caliper apart, I might need the rebuild kit, I was wondering whats the best place to get one and is the rear caliper shared with any other honda platform? also how much wiggle room do you guys like to have for the pads, when I installed new ones (non OEM) they were a bitch to fit in the caliper in their seating position.


PS
HCS, very interesting story! with old cars you never know what might be going on. I drove an old cadillac before my acura and one morning it wouldn't start, just the starter click, click, click sound. Northstar 32V engines have starters underneath the intake (between cylinder heads) so fuel rail has to be disconnected (special tool) intake lifted etc. I change the starter put the engine back together, try to start it and I got the same thing! So i open it all up again, check the voltage at the starter and all was good. I got so pissed I went to s bar living the hood open and the intake laying on the driveway, the next morning I figured that the wire might not be passing enough electrical current for the brushes, sure enough the wire was green under insulation on the battery side, trimming 3 inches fixed it! Old cars are a bit crazy and unpredictable. Unfortunately my Acura is not that old and has crazy problems! electrical issues (front light blink when turning, front seat back rest only goes down, side mirror doesn't go up) I'm already on my third alternator and the trunk lid has rust spots even though I thought its aluminum! These 90ties manual acuras have a very good reputation though so stick with yours!