ditto, as long as she is happy.

:what: maybe as far as reliability goes but I drove my Dad's 2010 Honda Accord and it was not even near the same level as my 2005 RL.

Main problems I saw: interior quality, road noise, suspension (vs RL suspension).

Once you get the common repairs done on the RL it is a very reliable car. I don't think I will be selling mine, even when I get a new car in a couple of years.

I don't think that. I was making a satirical comment about the people who say the RL looks like and can be compared to an Accord. (Or an Azera. :bitelip:)

Don't get me wrong, the Accord is a great car, but I understand why the RL is so much more.

Apples to oranges.

That's sound exactly like my situation right now. Transmission is slipping when slowing down, jumping of rpm's from second to third, take awhile to engage going from P to R or D. What do you think is wrong with it?

^ Find an auto repair shop that can change 100% of the ATF via the Vacuum Exchange method. Do not confuse this with a Trans Pressure Flush. Do not flush the trans under any circumstance.

If not available then do a 3×3.

Then you might consider changing the following items...

1. Pressure Control Solenoid Valves A, B, & C.
2. Shift Solenoid Valve C.
3. 2nd Clutch Trans Fluild Pressure Switch.
4. 3rd Clutch Trans Fluild Pressure Switch.

Additional sensors if needed...

A. Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor.
B. Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor.
C. ATF Temperature Sensor.

Check the trans ground cables and all the above connections, make sure they are sound.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...bbf61359d6.png

Correction

^ Find an auto repair shop that can change 100% of the ATF via the Vacuum Exchange method. Do not confuse this with a Trans Pressure Flush. Do not flush the trans under any circumstance.

If not available then do a 3×3.

Replace the trans filter.

Then you might consider changing the following items...

1. Shift Solenoid Valve C.
2. Pressure Control Solenoid Valves C, B, & A.
3. 3rd Clutch Trans Fluild Pressure Switch.
4. 2nd Clutch Trans Fluild Pressure Switch.

Additional sensors if needed...

A. Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor.
B. Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor.
C. ATF Temperature Sensor.

Check the trans ground cables and all the above connections, make sure they are sound.

Vaccuum exchange system? Please expound because even Google can't help with that.

What do you believe would be causing the issue that throwing those parts at would fix? What about the torque converter which is the most common weak point on the KB1?

Why are we throwing in the new sensors??? This almost sounds like the 3G TL transmission sensor replacement guide????

Here is a link to youtube on the vacuum exchange of ATF...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWjtmCJLRLM

By replacing 100 percent of the ATF or close to it, it will purge the trans of most if not all impurities. Which is the goal after all and a game changer. It will make a big difference in how the car shifts.

The machine can also vacuum through the trans cooler lines. There are a boat load of fitting for most cars.


It could very well be a torque converter problem. Since the tc is not serviceable, that's why the vacuum exhange is critical to servicing the trans. It's far superior to a 3x3.

Don't kill the messenger. Based on his symptoms those are the parts that may be defective.

"Why are we throwing in the new sensors???" If you know of another way I'm sure OP My2007 would welcome any suggestions that you may want to contribute?

Yes, it is trans repair 101.

I'm confused because I didn't think we had the issues that the 3G TL transmission has. The post threw me off because it made it sound like you should replace the sensors with the 3x3 and not replace the sensors with a rebuild if that's what you're trying to say? That should solve my2007 shift delay issue? That's why I needed the clarification :) Sorry, I'm a little confused today :)

No, I'm not saying to replace the sensors with a 3x3. I'm say to replace those sensors bc his trans is having issues and those external parts could correct his issues. It's not a catch all repair, it's symptom specific.

BTW... I recommend oem parts and fluids for best results, except for the trans external filter.

Clarification appreciate :thumbsup:

Replacing 100% of the fluid in one go is the exact reason Honda does not recommend a mechanical flush. This machine doesn't look any different in purpose. A 3x3 will get out over 80% of old fluid without dislodging anything that would cause a failure. Honda transmissions are proprietary and are not like American transmissions.

I talked to the shop owner before the trans fluid change. I was concerned about trans flushes. He said that the new machines are not like the machines of the past. There is no flushing going on, just fluid exchange. Meaning just fluid replacement not trans flush.

All I know is before the fluid was changed it had a very slight shudder and after no more shudder. Also after the car was more responsive. It accelerated quicker. Best way to describe it is after the fluid change the car rolled freely on acceleration and prior to the fluid change the car felt like it's brakes was dragging ever so slightly. LOL. Of course before the fluid change that would of been normal since there were nothing to compare it to.

My gf is the primary driver of the car. She notice it right of the bat after the fluid change that the car drove much better, accelerated better. she is not as a tune to things like that. She told me that she had to look at the invoice to see what was done to the car? Meaning was it really just a trans fluid change. LOL

If anything bad happens after this 100 percent fluid change, I'd be sure to post it.

Please do. The new ATF fluid is lighter than the old one, so there could be less drag. Honda transmissions are notoriously fragile, so anything more than gravity moving the fluid makes a lot of people nervous.

^ Update to 100% ATF Vacuum Exchange. It is safe to say that this method is nonintrusive to the honda AT.

The car is a daily driver, the trans is still working perfectly in all gears.

Important to note that the ATF "Vacuum Exchange" method is absolutely not a flush. The Vacuum Exchange method can change close to 100% of the ATF in one service if done right.

For the record I do not recommend "trans flush" of any kind.