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I have a question about replacing the transfer case output shaft seal.
My daughters 2006 RL is slinging 90 weight out of the output seal and as she doesn't have the funds, it's dear old dad to the rescue.
The car is high mileage but runs great and has been well maintained.
I have the exhaust out of the way with the driveshaft/propeller shaft unbolted and supported to prevent damage.
Before I take the impact to the 36mm nut, I have a few questions as I do not have a repair manual.
Is there a specific torque to this nut of will I be setting myself up to where I will be damaging the transfer case.
I have done differential pinion shaft seals in the past by marking the nut and tightening back to that point.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks
Harry
Before I take the impact to the 36mm nut, I have a few questions as I do not have a repair manual. Is there a specific torque to this nut of will I be setting myself up to where I will be damaging the transfer case.
I have done differential pinion shaft seals in the past by marking the nut and tightening back to that point.
Originally Posted by HarrySA
Yes, #20 is the one.
Looks like Step #14 below gives the torque, just be careful because it appears that 'nut' is not available.
Front Case Oil Seal Replacement Special Tools Required -Companion flange holder 07XAB-0010101 -Driver D070AD-RJC0140 -Inner driver handle 40 I.D. 07746-0030100
1.Remove the rear differential. 2.Raise the locknut tab (A) from the groove of the input shaft, making sure that the tab completely clears the groove to prevent damaging the input shaft.
3.Install the special tools on the companion flange.
4.Loosen the locknut (A) counterclockwise so that its tab (B) comes out from the groove (C) in the input shaft.
5.Tighten the locknut (A) until its tab (B) aligns with the groove (C).
6.Remove any dirt from inside of the groove in the input shaft, then loosen the locknut. 7.Remove the 22 mm locknut (A), the 22 mm spring washer (B), the 23 mm back-up ring (C), and the 23 mm O-ring (D).
8.Remove the companion flange with a commercially available puller.
9.Remove the front case oil seal (A) with a commercially available tool.
10.Install the new front case oil seal (A) with the special tools.
11.Set the companion flange (A) onto the front case (B), then install the socket (C), the 8 mm flange bolt (D), and the 8 mm nut (E) as shown.
12.Tighten the 8 mm nut, then install the companion flange. 13.Install the new 23 mm O-ring (A), the 23 mm backup ring (B), the 22 mm spring washer (C), and the new 22 mm locknut (D).
NOTE: Apply ATF to the 23 mm O-ring.
14.Install the special tools to the companion flange, then tighten the new 22 mm locknut to the specified torque. TORQUE: 118 Nm (2.0 kgf-m)
15.Stake the locknut tab (A) into the groove in the input shaft.
This is exactly the type of info I need and if I continue to work on her car, I will need this type of service manual. I do have one question though, this is asking to remove the differential and I'm working on the front transfer case not the differential. They both have the same kind of nut but the transfer case has a much larger one.
This is exactly the type of info I need and if I continue to work on her car, I will need this type of service manual. I do have one question though, this is asking to remove the differential and I'm working on the front transfer case not the differential. They both have the same kind of nut but the transfer case has a much larger one.
I'm using the OEM vendor on the link below for reference, try and find your front 'transfer case' by inputting the car information & review the 'Categories'.
The front transfer case is not standing out for me; therefore, I must be overlooking it? 2006 Acura RL 4 Door RL KA 5AT Parts - AcuraPartsWarehouse.com
It is listed under AT Transfer and you were correct that the nut is no longer available.
I went to Acura and bought the output shaft seal that is listed there and should have asked at that time for the correct torque spec.
I do appreciate your help with this. I've learned that that some things require a little more patience.
I've learned that that some things require a little more patience.
Reviewing the graphics above for the diff, it appears access / room to maneuver is going to be your biggest concern?
Getting a puller on the companion flange, in step 8, looks fun.
As is pulling the seal in step #9. Having enough of a 'straight shot' looks to be the key? Especially since it (the seal) looks buried deep & the protruding round flange does not help the cause.
Then you have to innovate as to how you are going to 'drive the seal' home deep if the special tool, they display cannot be duplicated.
Good Luck!
I still need one last piece of information, I don't have the torque spec for the large yoke nut. It takes a 36mm socket and I believe it is a 27mm shaft size.
I appreciate all the help as I now have a better understanding on the procedures required.
I plan on making a plate to bolt and hold the yoke in place to prevent any damage when I torque this nut.
Thanks
09-02-2024, 07:10 AM
