Radiator Fan Noise
 

Greetings! On my way home from work tonight, I heard a grinding/rumbling noise coming from the engine compartment of my '05 RL. Once stopped, I looked under the hood and isolated the noise to the fan attached to the radiator on the passenger side of the car. The fan is indeed the source of the noise as it came and went with the starting and stopping of the fan.

I searched this forum and found a recent post about replacing the fan and motor. My question is this...is there a way I can isolate the problem to the fan and/or the motor?

Thanks in advance!

And if it makes any difference, when I tried to figure out where there's play in the fan, I can wiggle the fan itself if I move the fan back and forth (from the back of the car to the front) and not up and down (vertically).

Pretty sure the passenger side is the A/C compressor fan. That bearing has worn out on a handful of cars here. I would put money on that being your issue.

Thanks Spy! I'm getting it checked out this afternoon and I'll keep you posted on what they mechanic says.

Winner winner! It's indeed the A/C condenser fan. Any suggestions for replacement sources? OEM or aftermarket?

Be careful and don't drive the car too much. Mine went out shortly after I noticed the noise and it started to overheat. Luckily, I noticed it on time and was able to pull over. Our cars have aluminum heads, so overheating can easily warp them.

I just replaced both motors, no need to replace the fans unless they are broken. I went OEM, I don't recall there being any aftermarket motors available, but I could be wrong.

Thanks for the reply Coastin! I appreciate the word of warning. The good thing about my situation is that the a/c condenser fan still turns, but it's making an intermittent noise as the motor shaft (or bearing) is starting to go bad. I intent to get it replaced next week.

My question about OEM vs. aftermarket could've been better phrased by saying used OEM vs. new aftermarket. At this point, I'm thinking new aftermarket is the better way to go since it'll be a part with 0 hours on it.

Funny you bring this up, my 2005 with 145k just started making this noise intermittently, same exact issue, passenger side cooling fan. Fortunately Honda/Acura sells just the motor alone...but its still pricey.

It's winter here, so not worred, fan comes on for ~30 seconds or so on startup and then shuts down as A/C compressor shuts off, its below 50F.

Is this thing easy to get at, or am I going to have to take the bumper off to get at it...

Chris

Hey Chris...I have no idea what's required to take the fan out. If you want, I'll ask the mechanic this week when I get mine done!

It looks pretty straight-forward, but to get at the bottom bolts holding the fan to the frame of the car, you will probably have to drop the splash shield - which means a lift would be handy to have. I am just going to have the dealer do mine, with this weather and lack of time sometimes you have to pick your battles.

Chris

Cheap person.....me
 

So my car was bought and driven home when i noticed the car was at about half way warm. I then noticed the a/c fan was only one working. I switched the connectors at the fan controller and now both didnt work......300 fcm btw, switched them back and nothing now (was testing with car off ac button on. After pulling them apart i noticed the ac fan wires were internally broken so i pulled the motor apart and used new silicone wire, brushes were fine and everything else looked good. Put back in and now the a/c fan works (this is availabe after market for 194 motor only) and keep in mind, both motors are swap able, but the a/c fan spins slower based on the arbor size AND brush size is different. I then pulled apart the main fan.........full assembly is from oreilly's for 230 if i remember correctly. The arbor was pretty rough, but the brushes were past the wear indicator. So i got cheap, went to my dads shop where he had some old fan assembly that looked similar off an 04-08 tl, everything is 100% right BUT the fan is 6mm shorter causing the fan to rub and not bolt on. So i was able to use the brush assembly though as it was denso as well and exactly the same. Both fans work perfect, the controller was okay. I had a feeling the owner wanted rid of the car as the ac fan some one already but spliced in new wires.


To remove the fans: both fans require radiator brackets removed, and cover as well.

Ac fan is to losen (not remove) bottom two bolts, and remove the compressor connector attached. There is a phantom ground to the drivers side that is attached as well. Remove the top two bolts holding it in. Important is to remove fcm (fan control module) three screws to pull the one fan out.

Main fan is remove the top three, kepping in mind the middle ones square nut can fall out, so watch it. Remove upper hose (make sure engine is cool). Last is remove the air intake scoop.


One fan is easy to pull apart (main) but the ac fan takes a little more finesse.


If buying parts for main fan.....tl fan is around $50 new

2005 Acura RL passenger side fan, AC condenser fan
 

Thanks for the posts, gentlemen.

Saw the temp gauge spike yesterday while driving up a hill at 55, then it quickly dropped to normal going downhill at 65 mph with airflow. 82 deg. F out. Kept an eye on it and drove home with AC, radio, etc. off just to minimize loads/heat. Today, it did the same thing. Home, popped the hood, saw the driver's side fan running but not the passenger's side fan. "Oh, there was actually smoke this time," my wife casually mentions. The bearing on the fan is clearly shot - I have 1/2" of movement in every direction. So, a new AC condenser fan it is. Don't like using them, but RockAuto has them for $156 shipped to my door. It's a Dorman with a limited lifetime warranty. PN 620282. UPC is #38611RJAJ01.

The manual states that it's merely a matter of removing the top two bolts and the bolt mounting the radiator fan control (RFC) unit. Just those three. Loosen the bottom two bolts but don't remove, as the new fan can drop in and rest on those two while you reconnect everything up top and then tighten the two down low.