New Rotors - Turning them before first use?
New Rotors - Turning them before first use?
Bought a cpl Centric rotors for front.
Mechanic says he always turns new rotors as he has too many people with issues when not done. Don't think it's a money thing as to turn, install, new pads, like $80
So is this really needed, or does he just have experience from people bringing in the cheapest rotor they can get at AutoZone/PepBoys/etc?
Seems like the factory cross hatch pattern would be hard to beat in a small shop with a machine ...
Mechanic says he always turns new rotors as he has too many people with issues when not done. Don't think it's a money thing as to turn, install, new pads, like $80
So is this really needed, or does he just have experience from people bringing in the cheapest rotor they can get at AutoZone/PepBoys/etc?
Seems like the factory cross hatch pattern would be hard to beat in a small shop with a machine ...
wtf? Why would you turn new rotors? Its cross hatched so you can bed the material in
I have centric C-tek rotors and have no issue with them. Just clean them off with brake cleaner and install.
I have centric C-tek rotors and have no issue with them. Just clean them off with brake cleaner and install.
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Even when I got my new brakes my friend didn't even mention that. What we did instead is drive the car up to about 25mph or something of the ladder, and hit the brakes really hard. That way you can do a break-in of the brakes.
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No, you aren't, but your mechanic might be!
This is called bedding and should be part of the break-in process.
Install new rotors and pads as they come out of the box. Only after a few thousand miles will you notice if they need turning as you will get a vibration from either the front or the back rotors if they are warped. Then and only then will you need to turn the rotors. If they are cross drilled or slotted the machine shop might charge you extra to turn them.

Originally Posted by Tire Rack
Brake Pad & Rotor Bed-In Procedures
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder.
Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:
AKEBONO -
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
ATE -
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
BREMBO GRAN TURISMO -
In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
HAWK -
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
Note: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.
POWER SLOT -
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder.
Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:
AKEBONO -
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
ATE -
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
BREMBO GRAN TURISMO -
In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
HAWK -
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
Note: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.
POWER SLOT -
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
Just a quick note: I have installed pads on cars and gone out to bed them in. It was an experience to put your foot on the brake and expect the car to stop but since there wasn't any grip built up the car just kept going and very slowly slowed down. It wasn't until you have heated the brakes up and built up some residue from the pad compound that the car began to stop efficiently. You can't install brakes for a customer and not bed them in. They could seriously hurt themselves if they had to do a panic stop shortly after they left the shop.
Some pad compounds don't work efficiently until they get smoking hot like in a race car. While they are cold they barely work, but when they are hot they are very aggressive.
On one last note: If you upgrade your brakes, don't worry to much about the guy in front of you, but the guy behind you who can't stop as quick!
Some pad compounds don't work efficiently until they get smoking hot like in a race car. While they are cold they barely work, but when they are hot they are very aggressive.
On one last note: If you upgrade your brakes, don't worry to much about the guy in front of you, but the guy behind you who can't stop as quick!
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