Headlight Lens

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Old 07-11-2011, 01:16 PM
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Pretty sure that first pic was after sanding. Letitride, you better make sure to put a UV protectant on it unless you want to do this every year...
Old 07-11-2011, 04:34 PM
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Thank you for posting your pictures of your light covers and how you did this technique. How long was the job?

I will order the plastic light covers so when I polish out my lenses, I can put the sheilds on right after I am done.
Old 07-11-2011, 11:21 PM
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Yeah first pic was after the p500 sandpaper. Please double or triple up on the masking tape! I had oxidation at top of lens on both but now it looks good, and I will sure find a way to protect it. Took me about an hour and change but whos counting, just go slow it will be worth it.
Old 07-12-2011, 07:22 PM
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Here is a set I modified today.

Mods.

05 RL headlights
Custom cut off shields
Clear lens swap
Phillips 85122+ bulbs swap
Painted amber diffusers (SSM)
Complete front lens restoration


Diffusers still let 50% light through.













As stated in my previous post, do install some sort of UV protection to avoid running into this issue again.
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Old 07-17-2011, 03:00 PM
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A few installed pictures. I would be uploading an HD video soon to show the low beam output and flicker with custom cut off shields and clear lens swap .






Old 07-17-2011, 06:53 PM
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Very nice. can you give any detail on what grit you use. also what UV clear you use to protect them?
Old 07-17-2011, 09:58 PM
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Wow!! Very nice work!!
Old 07-20-2011, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by LSM Legend
Very nice. can you give any detail on what grit you use. also what UV clear you use to protect them?
I only use 3000 as anything coarser than than will leave marks when the lights are lit, 3000 just takes a whole lot more time as I need to take down a few mil off of the lens before I polish them to OEM luster. The UV protection either comes from 3M Ventureshield or high gloss clear.

Here is another example, I did this set of Jeep headlights for a local customer.

BEFORE







AFTER







Old 07-20-2011, 10:02 AM
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I meant to say that the coarser sand paper will leave fine scratch marks which wont be visible when the lights are lit but will be evident when the lights are turned on.
Old 07-20-2011, 01:43 PM
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Nice Have you uploaded that video of the RL projector with the Lens swap?

Which Lens did you use. I imagine the S2k, TSX-R, 300zx, are similar sized. Im Hoping to crack mine open soon and play with my Kia Lenses that were amazing on TSX Projectors
Old 07-27-2011, 05:49 PM
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I just ordered a set of headlight covers from Autosport, so now I wait. In the mean time I am going to search out some of that 3000 paper to sand the lights with, or the 3m kit. My light covers are not that bad yet, that I don't think I need the big kit. We will see after I talk with the guys at the auto paint store.
Old 07-27-2011, 09:09 PM
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Christopher, after the wetsanding, don't forget to use a UV protectant even though you are planning to use the covers. Just an inexpensive safeguard that will keep you from having to redo anything down the line.
Old 07-28-2011, 12:45 AM
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Tak, what UV protectant?
Old 07-28-2011, 01:01 AM
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Some sort of spray-on clear coat with UV protection. Should find it for about $10 at a home improvement store.
Old 10-03-2011, 11:00 AM
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Has anyone used this Blue Magic Headlight Sealer/UV Protectant before? I realize this won't be as good as a film, but how well do these work?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051PJWQW
Old 10-03-2011, 03:35 PM
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ive used blue magic for about 5 headlights that ive retrofitted. i also shipped the customer the bottle told them to apply it once a month. So far no complaints.
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:32 AM
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Guys, thanks for all the info in this thread:


Last edited by mitchkramez; 10-10-2011 at 10:33 AM. Reason: line breaks...
Old 10-10-2011, 11:56 PM
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wow nice work. where can i get the 3m uv protect ant. and for restoration i have used meguiars heavy duty restoration kit. works good and used it on some friends headlights and haven't had any complaints but want to try 3m.

And to JNC how much will it cost to have this mod done from you? and what type of clear lense did you use? as well as for the shield; did you bend back or forward or what did you do. you can pm me if you want. i have done several headlights but want to see how you did this. and is that your rl?
Old 10-11-2011, 08:46 AM
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sorry - it looks like my image expired - here's a better link - and thanks again to all the help in these posts!

Old 11-30-2011, 06:55 PM
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I thought I would bring this back up to the top with this post, What is the consensus on which head light polishing kit to buy.

My lens are looking like ..*C888P*

I saw a Mothers polishing kit the other day at the auto parts store. I was leaning towards the 3M kit.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:47 PM
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I used the 3m kit and was very happy with it.
Old 03-01-2012, 03:15 AM
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so 3m restoration kit, uv sealant, and then ppf clear bra?
or 3m restoration kit and then just ppf clear bra?

the jdm headlights i bought are not in the greatest condition
Old 03-11-2012, 12:49 AM
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Popular Mechanics and Consumer Reports last month reccommended the Sylvania restoration kit but gave good remarks to the 3M kit as well.
Old 03-11-2012, 11:39 AM
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I am bit in fear to do this myself; want to find the body shop - anyone knows what price should I expect for body shop to restore it?

I did 3M on my previous car and it looked just fine, HOWEVER, after 2-3 months headlights started hazing again since I had no protective anti-UV foil or however is called
Old 03-11-2012, 12:31 PM
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Looks like me and JnC are gonna be good friends here soon.
Old 04-12-2012, 09:34 PM
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JNC Where r u hiding????
Sent u a few PMs
Originally Posted by JnC
Here is a set I modified today.

Mods.

05 RL headlights
Custom cut off shields
Clear lens swap
Phillips 85122+ bulbs swap
Painted amber diffusers (SSM)
Complete front lens restoration


Diffusers still let 50% light through.













As stated in my previous post, do install some sort of UV protection to avoid running into this issue again.
Old 07-16-2012, 01:35 AM
  #67  
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Update, last weekend I decided I would wade in on this project for better or worse (total replacement of the units). I went to my local pro paint store and bought two sheets of 2500, 3000 grit paper and a bottle of Meguires Plexiglas cleaner for aircraft windshields.

After taping off the paint from the headlight covers, I wet sanded the covers with 2500 and a soft rubber pad to prevent finger mark pressure. Then I followed that up with the 3000. I fine sanded that until it was clear as it could get, then I polished with a cleaner wax and my buffer.

After I buffed the headlights with the cleaner/wax for paint that is clear coat safe, then I hit it with the Meguires Plexiglas polish.

Over all the head lights look a heck of a lot better than they did, but with the lights on I can still see some very find scratch marks from the sand paper.

I am not sure how to get the very fine marks out of the plastic as evidenced by the pictures shown in this thread. It looks good over all just that I am picky about stuff most stuff people don't see. Suggestions?
Old 07-16-2012, 08:49 AM
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When you say "finger mark" I suppose you sanded these by hand? A sander is required to eliminate scratches as the movements are semi-random and very short in any one direction. A hand can't come close to the quality of a sander.
Old 07-16-2012, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by JnC
Resurfacing the lights using a kit such as 3M would only solve the issue for a few months before the haze comes back, at which point it would be worse than before.

The lights are made out of plastic and not glass due to the fact that the lenses and the newer cars are not flat and incorporate a whole lot more curves/corners in them compared to their old glass counterparts.

All lenses come coated with a coating from factory that protects against damage from UV rays, after so many miles worth of wear the coating fades away gradually giving way to UV rays to do their damage, hence you see spotting on the lenses first and then eventually hazing.

When you use one of the restoration kit, all you are doing is getting rid of all the protective coating from the lens, or what ever is left of it, and then polishing the lens ridding it of all the scratches and blemishes. After refinishing the lens your lenses are clean and shiny for the time being but in a matter of few months, if not weeks, the UV rays will turn them yellow again.

The best way to avoid this situation is to polish the lenses and then install precut 3M ventureshield film on it to protect against UV rays. DO NOT INSTALL ANY OTHER FILM ON YOUR OEM HEADLIGHT LENSES BUT VENTURESHIELD. Cheap precut clear bra films will eat into the plastic lenses by chemically reacting with the plastic and causing spider webbing through out the lenses, which no amount of sanding/polishing will get rid off.


When I usually resurface headlights, each headlight gets sanded down a few mil and then polished to OEM luster before a fresh coat of UV sealant is applied on each headlight.

Here is an example of a resurfaced set. Lights are from an 04 TL, hence about 7 or so years old, can you tell .




While I'm an advocate of protecting headlamps from damage in the first place by using Lamin-X or a similar product, I would be remiss if I didn't mention that using any sort of covering (including clear film) on a headlighting unit is a violation of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) 108.

That said, most damage can be avoided by keeping the lenses clean, never using abrasives to clean, using a quality wax (not polish), parking the car indoors and not tailgating.

As was stated above, headlighting design requires the use of plastics as do the European pedestrian safety requirements - the same requirements that brought you breakaway headlight mounting tabs. I cannot think of any modern car that has a glass cover.
Old 07-16-2012, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ceb
That said, most damage can be avoided by... not tailgating.
Old 07-17-2012, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by oo7spy
When you say "finger mark" I suppose you sanded these by hand? A sander is required to eliminate scratches as the movements are semi-random and very short in any one direction. A hand can't come close to the quality of a sander.
A soft sponge pad keeps the hand pressure even across a wide surface where a hand has unequal pressure usually from pushing to hard with your finger tips. This creates a uneven sanding surface. The pad is only a buck or two, but it sure makes life a lot easier when sanding. A sander can cut quick and your in trouble faster than you can imagine. Sanding by hand since we are only taking off a minimal amount of corroded surface of plastic, it only makes sense to use a minimal amount of sanding and the proper grit. I am no expert, but the headlights sure have a better appearance than they did.
Old 10-30-2012, 09:26 PM
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I finally tackled this myself. Got the restore kit from Sylvania. Was very skeptical during the process, but very happy with result. The kit included a clear coat final step. I'm assuming that it has a UV protector in the clear coat. All sanding by hand and performed without removing from the car

Sorry, no before pics, but the lens were pretty bad.

Old 10-30-2012, 09:54 PM
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link to the kit?
Old 10-30-2012, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by HEAVY_RL
link to the kit?
just bought it at local auto parts store
I still have the box, but no part number

found it on their web site
http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/produc...ation-kit.aspx


before the last step, it does not really look that good

Last edited by getakey; 10-30-2012 at 10:15 PM.
Old 10-31-2012, 01:01 AM
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Consumer Report gave the Sylvania kit their top choice next to the 3M kit. You can get them on eBay for about 30 bucks. I used it and found the results to be good.
Old 10-31-2012, 01:20 AM
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I am going to be doing this soon, after words I will be removing the orange corners.
Old 10-31-2012, 08:28 AM
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I keep saying I want to do it, but its not something I want to screw up.
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