swake457

Anyone have a guide on removing the driver side interior door panel? I need to get at the door actuator to replace it, but I know these panels tend be like puzzle boxes - they come on/off in a certain order. I saw some postings in the TSX forums which looked handy, bit those doors and parts are probably quite a bit different.

I trolled through the garage postings but only found text references for door panel removal in part of a service book that wasn't there.

thanks!

oo7spy

The service manual in the garage does not seem to have the door panel removal instructions. I am familiar with the 2G Legend, but have not done it on the RL. Still, I am sure it is very similar.

There is a cover behind the inside door latch and one at the top of the handle. The door has to be open to see the one on the handle. Using a flat head screwdriver, you can pry these covers to reveal screws. Remove the screws. In the old Legend, there were holes with screws beneath the arm rest, but I don't think that applies to the RL. Once all of the screws are removed, there are clips along the bottom of the panel connecting it to the door. Use your fingers to pry these loose. Once everything is loose (you should be able to tell or else there are more screws/clips), lift the panel straight up. There are clips that hold it to the window sill. Good luck. Let us know if you get it off and take pics.

swake457

Thanks for the info.
Looks like I'll need to wait a little while before I get the chance to try this. On my way home tonight my dashboard lit up like a christmas tree, starting with the "check charging system" alert, then red battery, then like domino's everything starting shutting off. Finally the NAV screen went black and the gauges went out. Somehow the engine was still running. I managed to go another 100 feet to get it in to a parking lot where it then proceeded to piss steam out of the hood. All this in the span of about 2 minutes or less. As fate would have it, it was only 500 feet from my regular repair shop when it stopped (former Acura tech who went out on his own). Roadside Assistance premium just paid for itself for the next few years!

I'm thinking the alternator went, battery died, and it overheated quick without the fans able to run. This is gonna hurt....

oo7spy

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

This is gunna be good.

sleepinxlionhart

There's also another cover right above the little "pocket thing where you keep your stuff" that needs to come off to reveal a screw also.

swake457

Well, several hundred dollars later, I can put this issue behind me and turn my attention to this annoying door lock problem. The Christmas tree event turned out to be the alternator frying itself pretty damn good. The battery held on as long as it could on that ride home before it finally gave up too. With a new battery and a new alternator I had hoped this fixed the door lock issue but no so luck. I can hear the actuator groaning every time so that must be the problem.

Once I get to working on this I'll be sure to document it and take pictures to post for everyone. No ETA but maybe in the next few weeks.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Are you going to track down what fried the battery? I would think that may be a battery problem.

swake457

Yeah, I did ask how that could have happened. What the mechanic found was the voltage coming out of the alternator was all over from where it should be. Sometimes far too low, sometimes way too high, and the battery was pushing just about four years old. He suspects the alternator was constantly supplying this incorrect charge level and just ended up damaging the battery. Once the alternator went for good that was the final nail in the coffin.

...But, sadly, a bad battery wasn't the source of the driver door issue. The actuator still sounds like a dieing cat

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

yeah, my drivers side rear door was doing the same thing but it went away.

EL19

iTrader: (4)

Mine too! LOL