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If I missed anything, or listed anything incorrect please let me know.
DIY: 2005 Acura RL Front Suspension/coilover/strut replacement, KB1, (KB2?)
Prerequisites: Ball Joint Separator, torque wrench, standard socket wrench set, floor jack, jack stands, 17mm sockets x2
Recommend: 5-7" socket extension, Flat head screwdriver x2
Step 1: Jack up car, always use jack stands, and chocks
Step 2: Take off wheels. Stock lug nuts are 22mm socket
Step 3: (I'm not sure if this is necessary but I think it really helped) Remove wire guides (this is for the wheel sensor?) [Image labels 1, 2 and 3]. Using a flat head screw driver to pop the plastic snap rivet (i don't know the right name for this). You may hear it give a small audible pop, then you can use your hand to pull it out.
Step 4: Remove upper damper fork bolt [image labeled 4]. I think 17mm socket
Step 5: Remove lower damper fork bolt [image labeled 5]. I think 17mm socket, you'll need one on each side. When you get the nut off, you'll then need to pull the bolt out. You can hammer it first on the exposed bolt foot. Then take the hammer and use it against the bottom of the bolt head to pull it. After that's done, you may have about another 0.5-1" left. Carefully tap the hammer at the bottom of the bolt head to finish the rest.
Step 6: Remove control arm castle nut. You'll need to remove the cotter pin. It seems to me it's best to use two flat head screwdrivers. One to pull the main handle. If you wiggle the main handle, you should notice it's arm move a bit, put the other flat head screwdriver there to make it wider and easier to remove the cotter pin. I'm not sure if it's a standard cotter pin, but it looks like this image http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fR2qYwEtZ4...00/Step+10.jpg
Step 7: (It's possible the knuckle could violently fallout on this step, so you can leave the castle nut on a few threads for safety) Separate the ball joint on the control arm from the knuckle. If you have this ball joint seperator http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_18334.jpg - try adding leverage by putting a metal bar. I used one of my floor jack handles, and it gave me enough leverage to do this job
Step 8: Remove the damper fork. You'll move the rotor around to get the suspension pieces to give you the most room. Maybe even using your forearms to press down on the rotor, one hand on the damper fork pushing down at an angle and then the other hand pushing the strut/coilver up and at an angle. Wiggle it, or force it... this part wasn't exactly easy for me.
Step 9: If you happen to have a 10" x 24" cardboard piece, wedge it though the suspension but right under neath the coilover/strut. This is not necessary but it'll help for the next step.
Step 10: Remove coilover/strut nuts. 14mm socket. The coilover/strut will not drop. If you have something to brace it, it won't fall and maybe hurt you. That's why I suggested something like cardboard to help.
To put everything back, just go in reverse.
Nuts and bolt torque specs:
- Control Arm Castle Nut 29-35 ft./lb.
- Lower Damper Fork Bolt 47 ft./lb.
- Upper Damer Fork Bold 32 ft./lb.
- Coilover mounting nuts x6 (not sure if that's the name) 33-48 ft./lb.
- Lug nuts 81 ft./lb.