IanVS

I have a low frequency (~100 Hz) vibration that happens only under acceleration, and I want to change my axles to see if that's the cause. The OEM parts are over $500 each, and I've had bad luck with remanufactured axles in the past. So do you have any suggestions of new axles that you've been happy with?

Anyone changed their axles themselves? Any tips?

Thanks!

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Its cheaper to start with the tires and a balance/alignment.

BDoggPrelude

It is cheaper than going out and replacing axles...but highly unlikely the issue. A bent wheel, out of round tire or mis-balanced wheel/tire assembly will create a vibration at a certain speed, typically above 55mph. If you're only feeling the vibration on acceleration it's not your wheels and tires.

Could possibly be a motor mount on it's way out?

IanVS

Well I can say this: do NOT buy NAPA axles. I bought two and they will not fit. For one thing the right and left appear to be switched, and when I tried to install the passenger side axle on the driver's side, it wouldn't slide in and I noticed the inner shaft is too big. So I'm thinking it's probably best to stay away from aftermarket axles altogether. The NAPA axles were $50 each, so I figured it was a good first shot, but now I'm reconsidering. For now I'm going to put the old axle back in and call Raxles, I've heard good things about them.

Heavy, I could have done a balance/alignment, but as BDogg mentioned, it's a vibration that only happens under moderate to heavy acceleration so it didn't seem to be a balancing issue. I had this same kind of vibration in my 92 Legend, and it turned out to be the axles, which is why I figured I'd try that.

After talking to a local shop mechanic this morning, I'm back to thinking it's my transmission mount. He said that if it's allowing the engine to rock too much under acceleration, it can put the axle at an angle that makes it seem like the axle is bad. That's unfortunate, because I don't think I can do the tranny mount myself, and the part's not cheap.

Also, for anyone in the future taking out an axle, the sway bar link is a bugger to get off. I ended up stripping out the hex hole and had to destroy the part to get it off. My advice is to use a good quality hex or torx bit on the end of a ratchet, don't bother trying to use an allan key.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

On these cars you will probably get nothing aftermarket to fit.
Short of an accident or visible damage I do not see how you have an axle failure when this drivetrain is used on multiple platforms including SUVs and there are no issues.

With that being said, assuming this vibration is that important for you to solve I would start with a list of possibilities and go with the fixes in order of cost.

IanVS

The car does have 160K miles and it looks like the axles are original. All parts wear out eventually, especially ones that spin around something like 170 million times while under load. So I don't think it was unreasonable to suspect axles.

The vibration is indeed important, because I worry about the stress that it puts on the transmission and the rest of the car. It's a pretty violent shake. And going down the line in order of cost was exactly what I was trying to do, considering the axles were $50 a pop instead of the ~$400 to do a single mount. Not to mention I apparently have two that are bad.

tisucka

I haven't really looked too much on the RL since purchasing it, but on my Maxima I had my cv axle go on me a couple times, more so when I had the car lowered. What would happen is that the CV boot would rip causing the CV axle to eventually go bad. It would never vibrate though, it would mainly make a clicking sound when turning your wheel and say pulling into a parking spot (if I remember correctly).

IanVS

Clicking when turning is a symptom of an outer joint failure on a cv axle. The inner joints cause vibration. There's a good troubleshooting guide at: http://www.raxles.com/troubleshooting.aspx

shahram72

Yeah, they usually fail from the boot ripping and the grease coming out and dirt and water getting in. They used to replace boots, but mechanics just change entires assemblies anymore, intentionally screwing us for gobs more money. I have used aftermarket axles my cars before with no problems. $50 is cheap, surprising for this car. They are usually new as well these days. Maybe somebody has found a source that fits. I'd rather use original Acura but at $500? HEck with that. I am thinking it's worth extending my extended warranty with the cost of parts they way they are. I think it will be easy to get my $1000 worth on my current policy and if I get another 45kmiles on top of that for another $2000, still worth it. Every repair on this thing starts at $1000.

Toppatop

shahram72 mentioned that the ripped CV boot can be repaired but the dealer choses to go that rout for whatever reason.. my question is, would it be wise to just replace the CV boot instead of the entire axle if I found a re shop willing to o the job? does anyone have a part number for the left rear axle?

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Depends on the condition of the joint, once it rips the grease is lost and contaminates can enter.

On my trail rigs I will repair em all day long.

Sooo, is it worth it? Huh, is it?

Toppatop

A merical happened. Acura actually stated they will pixk up the tab on the left axle. Car only has 58k miles.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

at 58k I would hope so, that should fall under power train.

djkurious

I get my axle's from Raxle.
The local refurbished and new axles are a big headache!

Toppatop

How long are the power train warranties good for. I thought it was five years.

Blues Legend

Tip from S2000s; a lot of people get that with the inner tripode joints, especially if they lower it without using spacers.

On those, you can swap the L & R cups that the tripode sits in, repack with grease & because it's now pushing from the unworn side of the cup, all is well.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

I think its 12-month / 12,000-mile Limited plus a 7-year / 100,000-mile Powertrain

oo7spy

2006 RL warranty was bumper to bumper 4yr/50k and powertrain 6yr/70k.

Page 9. http://owners.acura.com/Documentum/W...s/BWL33424.pdf

Toppatop

I thought it was pretty weird the CV Joints torr because I baby that car. I don't even drive more than 70 miles an hour. But I'm pretty sure it's the gravel lot I park in at work.