kirbyflorida

I changed my transmission fluid at 30k as my tech suggests, I have an 06 , original owner. Only get out about 2-3 quarts but it does shift smoother after the change.
Also, the magnetic drain bolt had a lot of metal powder on it that it picked up, so I cleaned that off. Dropping the plastic pan was the only thing that made it a bit more difficult.

stevesrl

So did you change both chambers. One chamber's fluid is ATF-Z1 and the other is the tranfer case chamber which uses Hypoid gear oil SAE 80 GL4/GL5.

Did you use the fill bolt on both chambers. ATF-Z1 chamber fill bolt requires moving the fuse box in the engine housing. You could have also refilled by using a small flex tube to fill it back up by the dip stick tube.

kirbyflorida

I just did the tranny fluid, I had the dealer do the transfer cases, there is one more fluid to change at 30K. I have to look it up. I filled it by the dip stick.

acurafox

I just downloaded the Jan 2008 Service News that discusses this-they recommend drain and refill three times, which is consistent with that recommended for our Odyssey. Draining once doesn't get all the old fluid out.

kirbyflorida

That is true, has been this way for ever, most Honda's and Acura's have been like this for at least 15 years. Still recommended to change often, not do it 3 times in a row. Acura actually does not call for a tranny fluid change this early, but it is something that should be done.

acurafox

As an FYI, here is the excerpt from that bulletin-step 8 essentially says to repeat the drain and fill twice after the first one as part of the flush while it is on the rack:

So here’s the
latest word on flushing that works for all A/Ts:
1. Set the parking brake, and raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Drain the trans, and refill it with Acura Precision Crafted ATF-Z1. Refer to the applicable S/M or to ISIS
for details.
3. Start the engine, shift into Drive, and release the parking brake.
4. Push down on the accelerator pedal to raise the vehicle speed to 2,500 rpm.
• If the trans shifts past 2nd gear, go to step 5.
• If the trans won’t shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine speed at 2,500 rpm and shift from Drive to
Neutral and back to Drive. Then go to step 5.
5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
6. Let off the accelerator pedal, and press the brake pedal to drop the vehicle speed to zero. Shift into
Reverse and then into Neutral.
7. Shift into Drive, and repeat steps 4 thru 6 four more times.
8. Set the parking brake, and repeat steps 2 thru 6 two more times.
9. Drain the trans, and reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
10. Refill the A/T with ATF-Z1.

I agree with you KirbyFlorida and favor early flushes or /drain fills as well-it's fairly cheap insurance, and even if one pays full retail for the fluid, it's still cheaper than a new tranny. My RL is at 25k miles, so I will probably do one myself in the near future.