For all you "Electrical Gurus" out there.....help!!!! Questions
 

Hey guys so I have some issues that are causing my horn not to work...I know I know before you go off on me about repost I did my research and couldn't find anything about my particular issue.

So to start off I'm gonna throw out there that my car was in am accident and I did have to change my airbag...that being said everything is working on my steering wheel, except of coarse my horn. My question is could the clock spring be bad and cause my horn to malfunction even though everything works, I was even able to get my srs turned off. Technically if clock spring was out I shouldn't be able to get that turned off correct? All fuses are good, also when you press the horn, with the good opened, I could here a clicking sound coming around fuse box area...don't know what that means......

Also if hypothetically my clock spring was out, would that malfunction cause the fuse to blow out for my a/c? Cuz every time I replace the fuse and go to turn on the a/c it blows out. But the horn fuse is good.

Any help would be appreciated. Need to figure out the cause...

clicking means there is power from the switch... I know its crazy, but have you checked to make sure that the horn is still there?

If it is, you can trace the wires until you find the power.

Haha yea I made sure that its still there. What do you mean to find the power? I know it's plugged in. Unless for some reason after accident it damaged the horns themselves but I just checked then out last night and both horns seem legit. No noticeable damage I even tried unplugging one and it didn't make a diff. Even when I press panic button the horn still doesn't work
By the way the "clicking" sound is coming from the fuse box

I mean using a test light to see if you have power at the plug.

I will try that after work. Hopefully come up with something. But I still have the problem of fuse blowing for the a/c. The "mg clutch" fuse. It's a 7.5a fuse

If your a/c clutch field coil is bad, it could be shorting the 7.5 fuse. Try unplugging the compressor connector and then replace the fuse to see if in fact the fuse will blow once you plug the connector back in and turn the a/c on

I already tried that. I checked my compressor clutch by apply direct power to it and it engages. And if I unplug the compressor completely, and replace the fuse, and then turn on the a/c button in the car it still blows the fuse. I'm assuming that there is a short somewhere and if in fact it is a short, is it impacting my horn? Or vise versa

If you look under the radiator support, there should be a 4 pin connector right above the lower radiator hose. Unplug it and try replacing the clutch fuse again. See if it blows

That's the one that I unplugged and it still blows

hope this helps

horn test / replacement

1 remove the upper grille
2 disconnect the connector from each horn
3 test the horn by applying battery power to the a side on the other side ground the bracket. the horn should sound
4. if it fails replace it

horn swith test

1. remove drivers dash board undercover, and the drivers dash board lower cover, then remove the steering column covers
2. disconnect the 20 p connercor from the from the cable reel
3. using a jumper wire connect the # 4 terminal of the dash board wire harness 20 p connector to body ground & the horns should sound.

IF THE HORNS SOUND GO TO STEP 4

if the horns dont sound check these items
# 13 is a 15 amp fuse in the under-hood fuse relay box
relay control module in the same relay box
an open in the wire

4. reconnent the 20 p to the cable reel
5. remove the drivers aig bag assembly and disconnect the horn switch 1 p terminal from the air bag
6. check for continuity between cable reel 20 p connector # 4 terminal and the horn switch 1 p terminal. There shoud be continuity !
If there is continuity check the installation the the air bag assembly and the steering wheel if OK replace the air bag assembly

if there is no continuity check these 2 items cable reel or again an open in the wire

You unplugged the 4 pin connector on the bottom driver side of the radiator? Not the 3 pin connector near the a/c compressor.

[QUOTE=chesnutlane;14275199]hope this helps

horn test / replacement

1 remove the upper grille
2 disconnect the connector from each horn
3 test the horn by applying battery power to the a side on the other side ground the bracket. the horn should sound
4. if it fails replace it

horn swith test

1. remove drivers dash board undercover, and the drivers dash board lower cover, then remove the steering column covers
2. disconnect the 20 p connercor from the from the cable reel
3. using a jumper wire connect the # 4 terminal of the dash board wire harness 20 p connector to body ground & the horns should sound.

IF THE HORNS SOUND GO TO STEP 4

if the horns dont sound check these items
# 13 is a 15 amp fuse in the under-hood fuse relay box
relay control module in the same relay box
an open in the wire

4. reconnent the 20 p to the cable reel
5. remove the drivers aig bag assembly and disconnect the horn switch 1 p terminal from the air bag
6. check for continuity between cable reel 20 p connector # 4 terminal and the horn switch 1 p terminal. There shoud be continuity !
If there is continuity check the installation the the air bag assembly and the steering wheel if OK replace the air bag assembly

if there is no continuity check these 2 items cable reel or again an open in the wire[/

Thanks I will try all of the above once I get a day off
What I did today was, unplug the harness from horn, put a light tester on it, had my buddy press the horn and the light when off inicating that there is power coming to the horn, and technically the switch works since I had to "press the horn to test the power. Most likely I'm gonna say that the horns themself are bad. But as soon as ill get some time ill do the first step on the list. :wish:

No I haven't tried the one on the driver side. But I know the 3 pin near the a/c still makes the fuse blow. But I'm gonna try as soon as I get a chance. Now if I do unplug the 4 pin connector and it doesn't blow the fuse, what would that mean?

It just means the short is that much closer to the fuse box (you eliminate the a/c compressor). The 4 pin connector (supplies power/ground to the 3 pin) could have been smashed during the wreck causing a short in the wiring. Check that wiring to see if it looks broken or loose. So....unplug the 4 pin connector when you get a chance, replace the fuse. If it blows, your short is between the underhood fuse box and that connector.

if it doesn't blow, your short is in between the 2 connectors

There is some good troubleshooting going on in here.

UPDATE: so I connected direct power to the horns and turns out they aren't working. Just ordered some new horns, will have them tomorrow...keeping fingers crossed that that was the actual problem....stand by

Hey guys got my new horn and waddaya know it works:) I'm a happy camper!
Now for my a/c issue I will get back to you

Congrats!

good deal

this board is great, great T/S tips and problem solved... Good on all you guys.

Didn't fully read all the posts and others suggestions but did gather you correct the issue with the horn but still have the problem with AC compressor clutch fuse still blowing, correct?

If this is the case, in the factory wiring diagrams, the MG CLUTCH (fuse 12) makes a direct path from the underhood fuse block to the compressor clutch itself. There's two connectors that the circuit travels through before reaching its destination: the clutch coil itself. One is connector C309 (4-pin) and then the connector AT the clutch itself which is a 3-pin. The wire stays yellow all the way up to the compressor connector which it then turns to a black wire. If you're disconnecting the clutch connector and it still blows the wiring, you have a dead short from this point all the way back up to the fuse block somewhere. You mentioned disconnecting a 4-pin connector beneath the radiator. If your fuse still blew, same scenario...short exists between that connector and the fuse block.

Your next step (should of been first if not done already) should be removing the MG CLUTCH relay and seeing if the fuse still blows. If so, short isolated between fuse block and 4-pin connector. If not, replace clutch relay and fuse and see if issue is resolved. Otherwise, loosen the engine fuse block and turn it over. You will see several connectors plugged into it. One will be connector F which is a 20-pin (2 rows of ten) grey connector... this is the connector with the yellow wire in it that goes to the smaller 4-pin connector beneath the radiator. It should be in position 10 (the yellow wire). You will know your on the correct circuit by looking for the VERY small terminal numbers marked on the back of the connector...it's also the yellow wire at the far end of the connector next to two empty spots and a black wire.

Once this connector is disconnected from the fuse block, the circuit should now be 100% fully isolated from anything else in the electrical system...make sure and leave that 4-pin connector beneath the radiator disconnected at this point as well. You will need a volt/ohm meter for the next part. Put the dial on the tool to the continuity tester which makes the audible beep sound. Usually positioned at the lower ohm settings on the dial. Confirm the tool works properly by touching the two leads together and ensure the beep sound is made and heard. Now, from the 4-pin to the 20-pin connector, place each of the leads on the yellow wire to check for continuity. If it doesn't beep, you will need to either replace the wire by splicing in another from connector to connector...this should correct the problem. If it DOES beep, check continuity between both the positive and negative post of the battery as well as all other wires in the connector. You should get a beep somewhere between these two. Either way, you will need to run a circuit between these two. Reassemble and then retest.

Let us know how it goes... ;-)

Yungone501:I want to unthank you just so I could thank you again! Lol you sir are a genius! I will get to that here in a little bit. But your post makes its easy to pin point the problem or isolate it better. I'm just hoping its not a short somewhere:/ but its possible. But I k ow I changed the a/c clutch relay and that didkt solve it, but I will try to pull the relay and see if it still blows. I will get back to you guys in a little....standby

UPDaTE:
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...9456445C22.jpg
Basically the 4pin connectors were fused together cuz the "black" wire was exposed on both connectors and since it was in accident I'm sure it shorted out due to impact and fused the connectors together.
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...945CDB514A.jpg
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...9454652E28.jpg
I gotta say it was pain in the butt to disconnect, had to pry apart with a flat head
Now I just need to a)fix the wiring and connectors, or b) order new connectors and re wire them.
Any suggestions?

I would replace if you can

I'm replacing the harness that goes to the clutch compressor....but idk about the other connector. Will have to do something custom

Go get a standard 4-pin trailer lighting extension. It should come with both a male and female plug and will allow you to install a connector on each side that can still be disconnected for service if needed.

***edit***

Be sure and solder all connections or it WILL come back and haunt you. Trust me on that one.

Good idea