Guys i need advice. On my way back from work my AC started to blow warm air even when maxed (set on LO)
car has 152k miles, its an 05, had it for 10 years, never any AC problem.until last year the AC quit on a hot day and i got one of them recharge bottles and that fixed it. Today i pulled out the bottle from last year to connect tothe "L" port, the preasure was in the red zone, 140 PSI.

What to look for?

 

IMO: You got LUCKY, last year, when you introduced, a charge into your A/C system, and got it operating again. Obviously, (" them recharge bottles"), DIDN'T FIX IT! Unless, your either QUALIFIED, or Experienced, and have the necessary equipment, "ie" vacuum pump, gauge set, Freon leak detector, etc., it's best, to leave A/C issues, to people, who know what their doing.

 

People that "know"what they doing are just throwing parts at every car that comes across... i had a pressure gauge, still have it and it shows high.I know some of you had AC problems, just let me know if the symptoms where the same and what fixed it.

leave your unproductive comments to.yourself- we are a DIY community!

ps half of all the AC problems are electrical in nature and i have over a 100k of electrical test equipment available. I know other cars have relay and valve problems.... yet you dont even mention it....

 

TO each, his own!

 

 

did you reppace your cavin filter? sometimes a clogged up filter can reduce airflow into the cabin.

 

i just replaced the cabin fliter last week! I do not have a flow issue but a temp issue.

today i checked 3 A/C fuses, one under the hood, one passenger side footwell and one in driver side footwell. All good so i went and swapped the A/C relay with headlight relay. No luck....

i pulled the headlight relay out and wanted to measure the inpedance of the field winding, i read in an old thread that there is a very specific value (4ohms or something like that) my meter was last calibrated in 2017 so i had faith in it. To my surprise i was unable to read ANY connection, meter was showing open loop (OL) the other side was in kOhms.... weird....

 

I don't know much about all of the electrical stuff but did you confirm that the refrigerant pressure is correct? Does the compressor clutch kick on at all? Does it blow luke warm-ish like there's some cooling going on or is it just completely hot?

I had a similar thing happen to my wife's Honda Pilot when I went to charge it a bit with one of those cans. I ended up over filling it which resulted in the compressor kicking on but off soon after due to too much pressure.

 

that was the first thing i checked, the low side pressure was waay high (think 150psi instead of 40psi) indicating a problem with the AC. So i cant even check if ylthe pressure is correct cause its showing way high, i think it needs to be opearting to check pressure

and.to.answer uour other question the car blows hot air with the thr AC on.

 

So the belt moves the outside of the wheel but not the center piece, AC on or off it looks and sounds the same

 

Center piece is your AC compressor's clutch. When the center moves your AC compressor is running(turning). When the center is stationary, your AC compressor is off. When people talk about your AC cycling, your clutch will turn on and off during the use of the AC. I personally, haven't played with AC much. Whenever I have a problem it is do to low pressure or an empty system, due to a leak somewhere. I haven't tried to drain and fill my systems. I normally find the leak, which normally is an oily spot in the system somewhere, normally a fitting, once a cracked hose. Have an AC guy drain the system, I change the part, replace the dryer and take the car back to the AC guy to have it refilled.

 

There's a video here and some links https://www.google.ca/search?q=how+t...TF-8#kpvalbx=0


Once I was driving a friend's very old acura (tl or cl i dunno), and the compressor wasn't working. A mechanic just slipped a long metal rod that has a curved tongue on it's tip, and started pushing on the compressor somehow.. I didn't see it.. but it made it run, and once it did, it kept running... Food for thought.

What rlerman said. Seems to be a common issue.

 

Do not put too much trust in that gauge on the store bought bottle. I myself have proven them inaccurate far more than accurate. The most common problem I see after one of those things is used is an overcharged system. An overcharged system is very dangerous and prevented from operating when pressures are too high. With that said, that would be my primary concern. You need it looked at by a certified AC technician. It is illegal to vent refrigerant. After it is confirmed the proper amount of refrigerant is in the system, and it still doesn't come on, I would check the compressor field coil. That requires back probing the connector while the AC is switched on to check for voltage. If there's voltage, the computer is trying to operate the AC but the clutch is not engaging because the coil is bad. If there is no voltage, the AC still isn't being commanded on for some reason (assuming clutch relay is good as you swapped it).

 

Don't think that I'll ever use one of those refrigerant charge kits again or maybe I can try a different brand other than the one made by AC/Pro. The so-called gauge that that comes attached to the can was inaccurate which lead to me more than likely overcharging the system. For over a minute the needle on the gauge did not move and then all of a sudden it was in the red zone which indicated a problem. Was forced to take the car in for service where they purged the entire system, checked for leaks (none found), and refilled the refrigerant.

 

thanks for the input guys!

anyone know which connector is it there are two at the bottom of the compressor. Both two wire. One is out yhe back of the compressor one closer to the belt side.

i also read that the AC control module /PCB likes to go bad behind the radio. Considering that my radio and avigation had been broken for a while its an option too.

if i cant fix it i might change it into a rally car- any ideas how to raise the ride hight a bit?

 

I think you'll find in that particular instance that the clutch plate was worn and the gap was too wide for the magnet to draw them together. On these cars the gap can be adjusted by means of a washer(s)