A-002: Propeller Shaft (Whine) & Differential (Whir)
#81
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Heavy RL,
Sorry to hear about this and your service rendered is the reason I don't trust dealers.
First off the differential is serviceable (to an extent). Complete sections exist in the service manual for troubleshooting and changing oil seals.
In your original post you stated that the dealer said a sensor fell off into the differential. If so, they should be able to show you:
A) A differential with a hole in it where the sensor was installed (Note this one is easy to fake-screw out sensor, discard, and then show you).
However, let's think about it. The sensor is connected to a wire. Even if the sensor broke in half (horizontal and vertical axises) at the threaded portion and half went inside and half fell outside-the half that went outside should be dangling from the wire it is connected to. The wire connection has a clip so it would be unlikely to fall off.
B) A sensor that has a piece missing from it-internal portion that is inside the the differential.
I am suspicious that this is service error on dealer part (very strange it happened 10 miles after service done).
You can buy that 4200 brand new differential at 25% off by going to oemacuraparts.com or it's acuraoemparts.com (one of the two-I forget which one).
I would seriously be cautioned about a used differential. It has internal parts and likely came from a crashed vehicle. Indirect damage could have taken place from crash impact to the internal parts. This may only show up after thousands of miles have been put on the car. I am sure you want a differential that last for the long haul (greater than 25K). With crashed vehicles it's a gamble (Indirect damage). You paid good money for the extended warranty you should get a new part. FYI your probably screwed in the "Fine Print".
You mentioned differential was dirty and leaking fluid. You may have had a oil ring which failed (cracked and pieces fell off inside the differential). Fluid was changed (pumped in and this stirred up the little pieces that repositioned themselves in the differential. After 10 miles of driving they killed the differential.
It it was me, I would demand to find the root cause of error even if this means taking the differential to a second party.
Differential is not rocket science-it's two planetary gear sets.
If you have to get the used differntial demand that you get the old one back. I will buy it from you. If you get a new one then they probably will not give you back the old.
OK so here is a logical path forward. Get the $600 used differntial for free and have it installed. Your probably screwed in the fine print but agree with the consession you get the old one. Doing this your back on the road at no cost. If it fails after 25K miles. Then it's on your nickel. You will still be ok for it would cost you 3600 now to go the new route. So don't pay until you have too. LIke I said, I'll buy your old one.
Sorry to hear about this and your service rendered is the reason I don't trust dealers.
First off the differential is serviceable (to an extent). Complete sections exist in the service manual for troubleshooting and changing oil seals.
In your original post you stated that the dealer said a sensor fell off into the differential. If so, they should be able to show you:
A) A differential with a hole in it where the sensor was installed (Note this one is easy to fake-screw out sensor, discard, and then show you).
However, let's think about it. The sensor is connected to a wire. Even if the sensor broke in half (horizontal and vertical axises) at the threaded portion and half went inside and half fell outside-the half that went outside should be dangling from the wire it is connected to. The wire connection has a clip so it would be unlikely to fall off.
B) A sensor that has a piece missing from it-internal portion that is inside the the differential.
I am suspicious that this is service error on dealer part (very strange it happened 10 miles after service done).
You can buy that 4200 brand new differential at 25% off by going to oemacuraparts.com or it's acuraoemparts.com (one of the two-I forget which one).
I would seriously be cautioned about a used differential. It has internal parts and likely came from a crashed vehicle. Indirect damage could have taken place from crash impact to the internal parts. This may only show up after thousands of miles have been put on the car. I am sure you want a differential that last for the long haul (greater than 25K). With crashed vehicles it's a gamble (Indirect damage). You paid good money for the extended warranty you should get a new part. FYI your probably screwed in the "Fine Print".
You mentioned differential was dirty and leaking fluid. You may have had a oil ring which failed (cracked and pieces fell off inside the differential). Fluid was changed (pumped in and this stirred up the little pieces that repositioned themselves in the differential. After 10 miles of driving they killed the differential.
It it was me, I would demand to find the root cause of error even if this means taking the differential to a second party.
Differential is not rocket science-it's two planetary gear sets.
If you have to get the used differntial demand that you get the old one back. I will buy it from you. If you get a new one then they probably will not give you back the old.
OK so here is a logical path forward. Get the $600 used differntial for free and have it installed. Your probably screwed in the fine print but agree with the consession you get the old one. Doing this your back on the road at no cost. If it fails after 25K miles. Then it's on your nickel. You will still be ok for it would cost you 3600 now to go the new route. So don't pay until you have too. LIke I said, I'll buy your old one.
#82
Suzuka Master
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Steve, I absolutely appreciate the time you took to post these thoughts.
Funny you mention getting the old diff back, the service writer said he didn't care, but the warranty company said that they get a core so I offered to pay the core difference and he is working to determine what that cost would be and if he can do it.
I will keep you posted.
I figured worst case I will make a lamp or coffee table out of it.
I will question the service writer on these points regarding the seal and the sensor even though its easily staged it cant hurt to ask.
Although I try not to piss those guys off because they can really make life difficult.
The "logical path forward" is spot on, if this used diff fails I will be installing the next one myself and buying it from oemacparts. This is where I get brake pads etc. from and they are great to work with.
Funny you mention getting the old diff back, the service writer said he didn't care, but the warranty company said that they get a core so I offered to pay the core difference and he is working to determine what that cost would be and if he can do it.
I will keep you posted.
I figured worst case I will make a lamp or coffee table out of it.
I will question the service writer on these points regarding the seal and the sensor even though its easily staged it cant hurt to ask.
Although I try not to piss those guys off because they can really make life difficult.
The "logical path forward" is spot on, if this used diff fails I will be installing the next one myself and buying it from oemacparts. This is where I get brake pads etc. from and they are great to work with.
#83
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I second Steve's post as he is well versed in this arena.
Just got back from dealer and they replaced my propeller shaft and changed out my diff fluid and transmission fluid. Also had an alignment and all four wheels roadforce balanced. And an oil change with Mobil 1, geez. Car tracks super straight now, no more vibrations even at 90mph (had to check). No more propeller whine and transmission shifts a bit smoother. Super happy now, Boyland Acura in Cleveland has been fantastic to me.
Propeller shaft is part number 40100-SJA-E01 on the paperwork.
Just got back from dealer and they replaced my propeller shaft and changed out my diff fluid and transmission fluid. Also had an alignment and all four wheels roadforce balanced. And an oil change with Mobil 1, geez. Car tracks super straight now, no more vibrations even at 90mph (had to check). No more propeller whine and transmission shifts a bit smoother. Super happy now, Boyland Acura in Cleveland has been fantastic to me.
Propeller shaft is part number 40100-SJA-E01 on the paperwork.
#84
I agree. How can we as a group instigate a recall??
#85
Torch & Pitchfork Posse
Just a few points for perspective:
A recall is done when the safety of a vehicle's operation is compromised. A whining propeller shaft bearing does not put the car's operation or occupant safety in jeopardy.
Second, Honda has issued a TSB to replace the propeller shaft under warranty to documented owners. It does however, put the responsibly on the owner to report it, and a corresponding Acura tech to diagnose and acknowledge it.
Last, the percentage of owners who have had propeller shafts replaces is not published. Though some report it on this forum, we are a focused group and do not represent the vast majority of 2nd Gen RL owners.
For your reading pleasure from NHTSA:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls...compendium.pdf
It does seem the majority of propeller shaft issues reported on here was mostly 2005 RLs, some 2006 RLs and a couple newer models.
What I would like to see are the VIN #s collected by those who experienced it by model year. Honda reported the issue was corrected sometime in the 2006 MY assembly. Perhaps we could narrow the gap where it affect specific VIN ranges. Of course that is not absolute as part bins may not align exactly to VIN #s but it could narrow the range.
I wonder if my RL would fall into that range, but I am just 30K miles, live in a warm climate (cold weather seems to call out this issue) and my RL was built late in the 2006 MY (May 21, 2006 assembly).
Somewhere here started a spreadsheet of issues. Perhaps mapping the VINs would focus as to when Honda corrected the bearing issue? Might I suggest a survey or a thread where members could post the VIN of their RL that has had this issue?
A recall is done when the safety of a vehicle's operation is compromised. A whining propeller shaft bearing does not put the car's operation or occupant safety in jeopardy.
Second, Honda has issued a TSB to replace the propeller shaft under warranty to documented owners. It does however, put the responsibly on the owner to report it, and a corresponding Acura tech to diagnose and acknowledge it.
Last, the percentage of owners who have had propeller shafts replaces is not published. Though some report it on this forum, we are a focused group and do not represent the vast majority of 2nd Gen RL owners.
For your reading pleasure from NHTSA:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls...compendium.pdf
It does seem the majority of propeller shaft issues reported on here was mostly 2005 RLs, some 2006 RLs and a couple newer models.
What I would like to see are the VIN #s collected by those who experienced it by model year. Honda reported the issue was corrected sometime in the 2006 MY assembly. Perhaps we could narrow the gap where it affect specific VIN ranges. Of course that is not absolute as part bins may not align exactly to VIN #s but it could narrow the range.
I wonder if my RL would fall into that range, but I am just 30K miles, live in a warm climate (cold weather seems to call out this issue) and my RL was built late in the 2006 MY (May 21, 2006 assembly).
Somewhere here started a spreadsheet of issues. Perhaps mapping the VINs would focus as to when Honda corrected the bearing issue? Might I suggest a survey or a thread where members could post the VIN of their RL that has had this issue?
#86
2012 Cadillac CTS-V Coupe
Mine did it last year, but I have not been able to reproduce it this year. Car sits in a garage overnight, but sits outside during the day and we've had several cold days where I was expecting it, but it seems to have disappeared.
I do have an Acuracare warranty up to 100K miles, so I'm not worried about it for now.
I do have an Acuracare warranty up to 100K miles, so I'm not worried about it for now.
#87
Torch & Pitchfork Posse
also..... the propellor shaft is part of the drivetrain warranty.
For 2006+ RLs, that is 72 months or 70K miles. The 2005 RL drivetrain warranty was 48 months or 50K miles.
Just another consideration for used RL shoppers.
For 2006+ RLs, that is 72 months or 70K miles. The 2005 RL drivetrain warranty was 48 months or 50K miles.
Just another consideration for used RL shoppers.
#88
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Just an update, I talked to the service manager yesterday to inquire about the propeller shaft being an accomplice to the rear failing.
Of course he knows I am still hunting down the reason why this failed, so he tells me that there are no documented instances of differentials failing and the propeller shaft was not the culprit.
He then informed me that there is no way for them to "inspect" the shaft for damage or wear and if it was failing then there would be, in his words, "and unbearable, horrific sound" to which I replied... who defines unbearable/horrific and got no real answer.
So the rear end is on its way to Va as you read this, hopefully I will be back up and running soon.
For those of you who have a warranty, get under your car and see if you have a dirty rear
I scored these pics for you visual learners, sorry about the quality they are from the crack berry.
Of course he knows I am still hunting down the reason why this failed, so he tells me that there are no documented instances of differentials failing and the propeller shaft was not the culprit.
He then informed me that there is no way for them to "inspect" the shaft for damage or wear and if it was failing then there would be, in his words, "and unbearable, horrific sound" to which I replied... who defines unbearable/horrific and got no real answer.
So the rear end is on its way to Va as you read this, hopefully I will be back up and running soon.
For those of you who have a warranty, get under your car and see if you have a dirty rear
I scored these pics for you visual learners, sorry about the quality they are from the crack berry.
#90
Thank You!
I have to say thank you soooooo much for this thread. I took the car to the dealer last year after I bought it used at a non Acura dealer. I bought it in Jan. and live in the Northeast, and heard the noise religiously at about 30mph. I took it to both the selling auto place and the Acura dealer, and no one could replicate the noise, which I am not sure why, since it always happens with me. It was out of warranty when I bought it, 57K (2005 RL). It went away when it got warmer, and then this winter, it started up again. I did a few searched and founf this thread. I was so mad to think that I may have to spend 2500 to get this fixed, when I would have had more leverage back when I bought the car. I had taken a video of my speedometer on my cellphone last winter so that others could hear the noise at the 30mph range. This was after I took it the the Acura dealer. This year, I brought it to them, armed with the service bulletin, and told them my issue with them not picking up on this last year when this is a known problem. They could not replicate the noise, but I forgot my cellphone in the car when I left it for the dealer, and I told them to listen to the 2 videos I took. The sound is loud and clear. They said that was the propeller shaft, and they would try to have Acura goodwill it, though I currently have 74K. Acura goodwilled all but $400! Still wasn;t crazy to have to pay anything, but it is much better than the $2300 they said it would be to fix it. The car runs very well, and I have yet to hear the sound again. Hopefully that is it! Thanks again for this thread. Otherwise, I would be having a problem a few years down the line with my differential, and I am hoping to have this car for quite a long time.
#91
Instructor
^^ Good to hear such great news! I'm so jealous.
I am going to try to take my car to the dealer and show them the Service News Bulletin and also see if they can fix it on goodwill. TBH, the sound is soooo annoying that I will be more than happy to pay $400 to fix mine, if thats what they offer me.
I am going to try to take my car to the dealer and show them the Service News Bulletin and also see if they can fix it on goodwill. TBH, the sound is soooo annoying that I will be more than happy to pay $400 to fix mine, if thats what they offer me.
#92
More driveline whir
I have it. ('05rl, 39,500 miles) I took it into Acura of Boston, left overnight and gave them a copy of the Acura Service News. Dealer writes "...performed inspection did hear slight noise from drive shaft not enough to replace at this time should monitor to see if it gets worse"
Dealer told me that since I am out of warranty, Acura will probably "help" me when it gets worse now that it is documented at such a low mileage. They charged me $56 in labor for the diagnosis.
Should I take it to another dealer? Or should I wait til it gets worse? The whir is both barely noticeable and short lived now.
Dealer told me that since I am out of warranty, Acura will probably "help" me when it gets worse now that it is documented at such a low mileage. They charged me $56 in labor for the diagnosis.
Should I take it to another dealer? Or should I wait til it gets worse? The whir is both barely noticeable and short lived now.
#93
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I don't know where this out of warranty with 39k is coming from and other guys too. My dealer said this falls under my warranty of 6yrs 70k powertrain from new. They said they didn't even need to get into the CPO warranty of the powertrain which is 100k. Andy that's total BS that they charged you $56 for "diagnosis labor" on a warranted item! Get your bum to another dealership right now. My dealer said the same thing they could barely hear it but they just went ahead and replaced it.
#94
Instructor
^^ Actually his RL is an '05. All '05s came with a 4yr/50K miles warranty on both regular and powertrain. So the dealer is correct, his RL is out of warranty. It's a shame that he charged you the $56
#95
Suzuka Master
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$50(ish) is the general cost for out of warranty diagnosis around here, seems worth it to me seeing I leave in a loaner car and they do all the work.
Luckily my ext. warranty picks up the cost if the damage is covered.
Luckily my ext. warranty picks up the cost if the damage is covered.
#97
Are thePropeller Shaft Whine & Differential Whir issues only associated with the '05's & '06's (from what I've previously heard) or an issue with '05's thru '08's altogether?
#98
I have 2007 and I am experiencing the issue as well. Unfortunately, my car is also out of warranty at 70k+ miles.
#99
#100
#101
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I have it. ('05rl, 39,500 miles) I took it into Acura of Boston, left overnight and gave them a copy of the Acura Service News. Dealer writes "...performed inspection did hear slight noise from drive shaft not enough to replace at this time should monitor to see if it gets worse"
Dealer told me that since I am out of warranty, Acura will probably "help" me when it gets worse now that it is documented at such a low mileage. They charged me $56 in labor for the diagnosis.
Should I take it to another dealer? Or should I wait til it gets worse? The whir is both barely noticeable and short lived now.
Dealer told me that since I am out of warranty, Acura will probably "help" me when it gets worse now that it is documented at such a low mileage. They charged me $56 in labor for the diagnosis.
Should I take it to another dealer? Or should I wait til it gets worse? The whir is both barely noticeable and short lived now.
I'm hesitant in dropping off my 05 RL only to get charged a service fee when they "can't find an issue".
#102
my car never made it to service to even check because I refuse to pay a dealership 120 dollars if they don't find anything wrong....but if there was something wrong they would cover it. That is a BS system and has changed my opinion of Acura a lot.......but none the less I still love my RL just wish the company would appreciate the customers that invest money into their products, but hey it is a business like anything else
#104
sorry it's dark and I hit the wrong key!
Dealer said if it gets worse they will check again. It got worse so visit #2 got me a new driveshaft etc.
It did not fix the whine at 70mph so next visit produced the "could not duplicate"
Next visit had took take the service manager and writer out for a drive but they said it was not bad enough to do anything and besides, "they all do it to some degree". I then arranged with the manager to listen to mine and my sons RL (also 05) to prove that mine was different. They admitted to the noise but said nothing could be done. I pushed the dealer via Acura Customer Service for a fix so they arranged for the area manger to meet me at the dealership for a ride. The noise was obvious and a few weeks later they said that the issue is the torque converter that is embedded into the trans and that they would replace it free of charge as the rep from Acuracare was also a witness to the noise on one of the test drives.
So I have new trans etc all the way back to the diff for no charge and it's now perfect again. 99k miles done.
Dealer said if it gets worse they will check again. It got worse so visit #2 got me a new driveshaft etc.
It did not fix the whine at 70mph so next visit produced the "could not duplicate"
Next visit had took take the service manager and writer out for a drive but they said it was not bad enough to do anything and besides, "they all do it to some degree". I then arranged with the manager to listen to mine and my sons RL (also 05) to prove that mine was different. They admitted to the noise but said nothing could be done. I pushed the dealer via Acura Customer Service for a fix so they arranged for the area manger to meet me at the dealership for a ride. The noise was obvious and a few weeks later they said that the issue is the torque converter that is embedded into the trans and that they would replace it free of charge as the rep from Acuracare was also a witness to the noise on one of the test drives.
So I have new trans etc all the way back to the diff for no charge and it's now perfect again. 99k miles done.
#105
Instructor
Just took my '05 to the Dealer today. I took the service manager out for a drive and he heard the noise right away at around 37mph. I showed him the Service News Bulletin and he advised me that since its not a TSB or safety issue, he probably will have to charge me to replace the Bearing since my car is out of warranty at 85K miles now. He kept my car for 6 hours and did determine that it was the bearing. He called me back and said they are willing to replace it for a goodwill price of $200.
I agreed, of course! They will have it fixed by tomorrow. I'll post my results then.
I agreed, of course! They will have it fixed by tomorrow. I'll post my results then.
#107
Hey guys,
I have an Acura RL 2005 with 75k on it. I bought it to my dealer because of the whinning noise at 60-80 mph. They told me its something wrong with my transmission and they going to replace it with a new one under warrantly. There is another problem which they cant find out yet. Usually it happens in the morning when i start up my car. after i warmed up my car. When im at 20-40 mph around 2k to 2.5k rpm i can hear this rattle noise coming from the front. usually it goes away after 2 or 3 miles. anyone have any similar problem?
I have an Acura RL 2005 with 75k on it. I bought it to my dealer because of the whinning noise at 60-80 mph. They told me its something wrong with my transmission and they going to replace it with a new one under warrantly. There is another problem which they cant find out yet. Usually it happens in the morning when i start up my car. after i warmed up my car. When im at 20-40 mph around 2k to 2.5k rpm i can hear this rattle noise coming from the front. usually it goes away after 2 or 3 miles. anyone have any similar problem?
#108
SteveRL,
great job in putting this thread together bud! sorry for chiming in so late. my noise issue has not been resolved. im still getting the whine/whistle sound when im going between 25-40 mph. its consistent with acceleration meaning its only apparent when im accelerating. if i drive up to 35 mph and let off the gas pedal, the noise goes away.
what i did notice recently is that since the prop shaft replacement, i am also getting a "ERRR" sound.its like the car is downshifting and drops to a slightly deeper errrr. when im already moving and i let go of the gas pedal and then press just enough to keep the speed steady the RPMs will always drop 500 RPMs and continue to make the Errrr sound.
im planning on having the service manager take my car home so that he can personally hear the noise. its jsut that the snow and wet roads have been in the way of giving up my car to the manager. i hope my experience helps.
Roger
great job in putting this thread together bud! sorry for chiming in so late. my noise issue has not been resolved. im still getting the whine/whistle sound when im going between 25-40 mph. its consistent with acceleration meaning its only apparent when im accelerating. if i drive up to 35 mph and let off the gas pedal, the noise goes away.
what i did notice recently is that since the prop shaft replacement, i am also getting a "ERRR" sound.its like the car is downshifting and drops to a slightly deeper errrr. when im already moving and i let go of the gas pedal and then press just enough to keep the speed steady the RPMs will always drop 500 RPMs and continue to make the Errrr sound.
im planning on having the service manager take my car home so that he can personally hear the noise. its jsut that the snow and wet roads have been in the way of giving up my car to the manager. i hope my experience helps.
Roger
#110
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SteveRL,
great job in putting this thread together bud! sorry for chiming in so late. my noise issue has not been resolved. im still getting the whine/whistle sound when im going between 25-40 mph. its consistent with acceleration meaning its only apparent when im accelerating. if i drive up to 35 mph and let off the gas pedal, the noise goes away.
what i did notice recently is that since the prop shaft replacement, i am also getting a "ERRR" sound.its like the car is downshifting and drops to a slightly deeper errrr. when im already moving and i let go of the gas pedal and then press just enough to keep the speed steady the RPMs will always drop 500 RPMs and continue to make the Errrr sound.
im planning on having the service manager take my car home so that he can personally hear the noise. its jsut that the snow and wet roads have been in the way of giving up my car to the manager. i hope my experience helps.
Roger
great job in putting this thread together bud! sorry for chiming in so late. my noise issue has not been resolved. im still getting the whine/whistle sound when im going between 25-40 mph. its consistent with acceleration meaning its only apparent when im accelerating. if i drive up to 35 mph and let off the gas pedal, the noise goes away.
what i did notice recently is that since the prop shaft replacement, i am also getting a "ERRR" sound.its like the car is downshifting and drops to a slightly deeper errrr. when im already moving and i let go of the gas pedal and then press just enough to keep the speed steady the RPMs will always drop 500 RPMs and continue to make the Errrr sound.
im planning on having the service manager take my car home so that he can personally hear the noise. its jsut that the snow and wet roads have been in the way of giving up my car to the manager. i hope my experience helps.
Roger
I had a ride along with a tech awhile back and he said he could hear it but couldn't find out exactly where it was coming from b/c of the rain on the road causing extra noise. They put it on a lift running and couldn't see anything that would cause it and told me to bring it back when it was dry for another ride along.
I've already had my shaft replaced once as a tech said he herd squeal during one of the times my car was in the shop and they in turn replaced the shaft.
The only thing the tech said to me that he thought it could be was the intake making the noise, but it just baffled me as to why it only did it at certain pedal position's combined with rpm's and gear. I'd of thought if it was intake id hear it even more as rpm's got louder and not it go completely away.
#111
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Wow seems as though some dealers are finally stepping up to the plate. For you guys that aren't gettting treated as nice you really should call Acura Client Services. They just helped me a few months ago since I bought my car in NJ and live in Cleveland. The NJ dealer was not helping me so Acura Client Services took care of everything.
By Phone: (800) 382-2238
Monday through Friday, 6:00am to 5:00pm Pacific Standard time at the toll-free phone number above
By Phone: (800) 382-2238
Monday through Friday, 6:00am to 5:00pm Pacific Standard time at the toll-free phone number above
#112
My symptoms are very consistent.
First, the noise sounds like radio interference and comes from the front center.
It is defintely temp related. Never happens above 60 degrees.
Also, below 60 degrees, makes the sound until car is warmed up, i.e. will not make sound after 10 minutes of driving.
Sound is for a narrow speed range, approx 27 to 32 mph. It is NOT rpm related as I have manually shifted gears and sound stays.
Also, sound is not dependent on acceleration. If I hold speed at 30mph, I can keep the sound until car is warmed up.
Sound does not appear at any other speed.
First, the noise sounds like radio interference and comes from the front center.
It is defintely temp related. Never happens above 60 degrees.
Also, below 60 degrees, makes the sound until car is warmed up, i.e. will not make sound after 10 minutes of driving.
Sound is for a narrow speed range, approx 27 to 32 mph. It is NOT rpm related as I have manually shifted gears and sound stays.
Also, sound is not dependent on acceleration. If I hold speed at 30mph, I can keep the sound until car is warmed up.
Sound does not appear at any other speed.
#113
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I'm also glad I found this thread. I'm still under warranty so I'll be taking mine in for diagnosis and (hopefully) repair. The ironic thing is that I get the same noise on my '05 MDX and there are propeller shaft threads on www.mdxers.org to the same effect. Seems like this is something Acura should just fix on all their vehicles suffering from this problem.
#114
My symptoms are very consistent.
First, the noise sounds like radio interference and comes from the front center.
It is defintely temp related. Never happens above 60 degrees.
Also, below 60 degrees, makes the sound until car is warmed up, i.e. will not make sound after 10 minutes of driving.
Sound is for a narrow speed range, approx 27 to 32 mph. It is NOT rpm related as I have manually shifted gears and sound stays.
Also, sound is not dependent on acceleration. If I hold speed at 30mph, I can keep the sound until car is warmed up.
Sound does not appear at any other speed.
First, the noise sounds like radio interference and comes from the front center.
It is defintely temp related. Never happens above 60 degrees.
Also, below 60 degrees, makes the sound until car is warmed up, i.e. will not make sound after 10 minutes of driving.
Sound is for a narrow speed range, approx 27 to 32 mph. It is NOT rpm related as I have manually shifted gears and sound stays.
Also, sound is not dependent on acceleration. If I hold speed at 30mph, I can keep the sound until car is warmed up.
Sound does not appear at any other speed.
i have 39k miles on my car. I have a 100k CPO warranty..so I'm not worried about getting it fixed ASAP... BUT, what is it really? is this osmething that will ultimately cause my tranny or diff to fail?
i don't mind it as it's only htere for a moment and only under certain conditions - but is thsi really somethign worn/broken or just a characteristic of the car? i mean..if the car whines for a few minutes at a certain speed - is it just the way the car is or is it a sign of a problem?
#115
this descriptions is EXACTLY what I have noticed on my car recently. high pitched whine...first time i h eard it I thought it was a siren off in the distance,t hen realized it was my car. right around 30mph...i noticed it when it is fairly cold outside. after a few m inutes it goes away.
i have 39k miles on my car. I have a 100k CPO warranty..so I'm not worried about getting it fixed ASAP... BUT, what is it really? is this osmething that will ultimately cause my tranny or diff to fail?
i don't mind it as it's only htere for a moment and only under certain conditions - but is thsi really somethign worn/broken or just a characteristic of the car? i mean..if the car whines for a few minutes at a certain speed - is it just the way the car is or is it a sign of a problem?
i have 39k miles on my car. I have a 100k CPO warranty..so I'm not worried about getting it fixed ASAP... BUT, what is it really? is this osmething that will ultimately cause my tranny or diff to fail?
i don't mind it as it's only htere for a moment and only under certain conditions - but is thsi really somethign worn/broken or just a characteristic of the car? i mean..if the car whines for a few minutes at a certain speed - is it just the way the car is or is it a sign of a problem?
Unfortunately, I'm well out of warranty (2005 with 107K miles)
#116
I have a 2005 Acura RL with 50,300 miles on it. I actually just noticed a weird noise under acceleration at around 30-40mph today. I found this thread by doing a search on google! I also have heard a weird whine like noise when on the highway (only under load). Seems to be a lot of mixed responses. I am debating going to my local Acura dealer and having them see if they will do anything about it under goodwill. Any suggestions?
#117
I have a 2005 Acura RL with 50,300 miles on it. I actually just noticed a weird noise under acceleration at around 30-40mph today. I found this thread by doing a search on google! I also have heard a weird whine like noise when on the highway (only under load). Seems to be a lot of mixed responses. I am debating going to my local Acura dealer and having them see if they will do anything about it under goodwill. Any suggestions?
#118
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: The Woodlands, TX
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You can get an Acura extended warranty while under original warranty which expires @ 52500 miles (50000 miles + 5% more due to false odometer class action suit). Bets hurry and make up your mind though.
#119
Even though I am under the mileage I have an 05 so dont I not qualify since its been 5 years?
#120