Did anyone have same issue?

2013 Acura RDX

I have cigarette charger with volts meter. And numbers constantly changes from as low as 11.5-12v to 14-14.5v. Sometimes 12v can stay for couple hours, then back to 14v for next few hours. Sometimes number changes every few minutes.

Main issues is engine shuts off randomly, but still have power inside the car (lights, music, dashboard works). Also RPM were jumping 500-1500 before engine shuts off. P095A code (electrical system not charging, generstor issue) keep coming few times a week. I saw a lot of familiar problems here in conversations and on acurazine forum so I replaced alternator. Its Denso, OEM from dealership. But it did not help.

First engine was shutting off maybe once a month, then it became more often, all a way to few times a day. RPM up and down when idling. Voltage up and down when driving and idling. All signs were pointing to failing altertarnator. But replacement did not help to fix problem.

Also shop checked as much as possible all electrical harness and did find any issues

-new denso alternator
-new battery positive terminal harness
-negative terminal and harness no corrosion, tight
-I checked no corriosion at any alternator terminal connection
-shop checked all electrical harness as much as possible and did not find any issue

Any chance someone had same issue with engine randomly shuting off ? And voltage numbers goes bellow normal range?

Thank you guys! Im hopeless and have no idea where to look next

 

First of all, you need to check all the main grounds and powers.

 

Along with what Altair pointed out above. Try what he has advised, if that hasn't fixed the problem, try the following. Find the relay that handles the charging system in one of the outside fuse boxes. Take the part number and then see if there is another relay
with the same part number. Mark the one that is in the charging system with a black magic marker and then replace it with the other in the system. Had that work for me from time to time. The black marking will help ensure which one is going bad
and you can buy another and switch it out easily.

 

Hey! Thank you! I checked battery positive and negative harness ends, all tight, no corrosion.

Yesterday and today engine shut off again at red light. Dashboard works, music plays, power inside the car, but engine shuts off at red lights.

Sorry, can you please explain me how I check those 5 spots in fuse box? Those 5 bolts you marked. I just make sure they are tight and no corrosion? Or what should I do?

im getting really frustrated.. new oem alternator, new service belt, new belt tensioner, new front head gasket covet and new spool (so no any leaks on alternator), no rust at battery positive/negative harness ends… but car keeps shuting down engine at red lights or in traffic.

Also few times a day instead of shutting down engine RPM will jump up crazy to 1500-1700 and then go back to normal.

i think it might be result of same issue.. rpm jumping randomly to 1500 at red lights/trafic and engine shuting down. What do you think?

 

They physically can't be corroded because they're under the cap, you need to make sure they're not loose.
What are you from Dmytro?

 

Hey. I saw you tried to send me private message. But it says I cant receive private message because inbox is full. But my inbox is completely empty. I dont know how to fix that

im from seattle, wa

For past 2 hours engine shut down in traffic at ted light at zero speed, and 2 times rpm real fast jumped to 1500 at stop sign and in traffic when i was in Drive but speed was zero

 

First you need to deal with the voltage drop, and then look at the operation of the engine.

 

When this happened to me (I also have a voltmeter in my 'cigarette lighter' port) last year, I had a part leaking oil onto my alternator. I was on the road, and it cost me $1600 (plus a 2 night stay in a motel) to get it fixed -- replacing the spool valve which was doing the leaking. In my case, the alternator slipped (from the oil) enough that the battery was not charging, and I became stranded on the interstate, so I had to pay for towing as well. When the battery died, I was out of luck.


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
Some say Steve Jobs would have been a better President than Donald Trump, but that's comparing apples to oranges.

 

Dang that's a tough situation to be in .

 

Altogether cost me a little over $1800, including motel, towing and repair. Only big problem I've had with the car, though. Now at 160,000 miles or so.


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
Throwing acid is wrong, in some people's eyes.

 

These cars have a battery sensor on the battery ground terminal side and I don't know if this part could cause the symptoms you've described but it's possible. In the link I was reading that the battery sensor can affect the cars idle speed so that's why I thought this part may be worth checking out. This sensor also is also connected to the alternator field terminal so could impact the charging voltage.
Battery sensor: how it works, problems, checking, battery replacement (samarins.com)

 

Have you found the problems that were hexing your charging system? Might help others that might find themselves in the same situation.

 

Hi folks,
I have a similar Problem!
Start the engine 13.6 V let it Idle for a minute voltage drop to 12.4 V.
I also recognize a clicking noise (could be a relay noise) coming from the
passenger side (around every 20 sec).
Any idea?

Viper111

 

Clicking noise coming from HVAC, so I think this is normal!

 

He fixed his problem , with a new engine control module. There were 2 posts in the forum that was started