Installing aftermarket sub to replace factory sub
 

ive been reading around numerous forums and gathered a bit of info on replacing my factory sub in my 2016 rdx..

1) cheapest way to get better sound
2) looking for 10" sub (correct me if I'm wrong on size)
3) replacing the factory sub won't be as beneficial as adding a sub with a box but I should still hear a huge improvement
4) plug and play? (peel away car lining, unplug factory sub and then plug in aftermarket sub)
5) may or may not affect ANC module (need clarification on this)
6) amp not necessary unless getting a very strong sub (1000rms+)

thats basically what ive gathered in my research. I am looking to do the install myself if it is as straight forward as it seems. If there is anything else I am missing or need to know, please let me know. Thanks!

Just make sure you get the polarity correct when connecting the wires to the new sub. I'd be very interested to hear how much additional bass you hear (and so will many others on here).

in for updates on this as well. this might be interesting and I have a more than a few clients ask about it.

I'm speculating here but I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if it did not make a big difference if you are just replacing the driver (speaker) itself without boosting the power or disconnecting ANC. I think that the amount of power the speaker actually gets is quite low, since you can barely hear it even with your head right beside it. I may look into this mod myself in the spring but I think for me these days, finding something worthwhile to listen to is a bigger priority than cranking up the volume. Which is weird because I have done a LOT of car audio stuff over the years. One of the main reasons (in the top 4) I chose the RDX Tech was the ELS sound system.

Just came back from a local audio shop and spoke to the owner. He suspects the same as you skidoor, that just replacing the subwoofer itself will not produce much gains, if any. The enclosure that the system is in is too small and without actual numbers and specs of he ELS system, it's hard to say whether or not it'd be enough to drive a more powerful sub

One suggestion was to buy an enclosed sub with a built-in amp and throw it into the trunk. This would be the most cost effective method and I would be able to move the sub if needed.

The other option was to have a custom fiberglass box made box made so that I could still retain my trunk space and still have it looking fairly close to factory back there. This way, id have more options as to what sub to get and possibly fitting in the amp in there somehow as well

Suggestion
 

Check out the powered subs by Sound Ordinance sold at Crutchfield. I've rotated the low profile box through 3 cars and it adds plenty of low end for little $...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8P...ce-B-8PTD.html

just my suggestion.

I just bought a 2013 RDX base I love it
although the stereo is pathetic huge let down
I ve read alot on this issue and my fix
it's not perfect but somehow it makes a huge improvement.2.0 flash drive loaded with windows media works great plug into the USB
actually sounds very good.Why ?
My guess is there is no sound processer
interrupting the signal.I also thought if you want buy a low profile sub and mount it were original sub was run a hot wire to the battery and splice wires.Done Hope this helps

I changed my sub and added an amp to just power the new sub and it made a HUGE difference.
I used the original sub inclosure cause I didn't want a sub eating up
trunk space. I'll look for my post and get back

What size is the speaker? (diameter)

It would be absolutely amazing if you could post a tutorial on how to remove the plastic panel over the sub.

interested as well..its tough finding any info on the 2nd gen rdx anywhere.
sub and amp info would be greatly appreciated!

Any update on this?
Still can’t figure out how to remove the back panel in the trunk to uncover the sub..

*Bump* For the same reason as OP. Looking for a decently-cost effective way to add a decent amount of bass, without sacrificing cargo space (too much, anyways).

I too would be interested in understanding how I can improve my stock sub -- I just purchased a 2017 RDX with ELS package, and while the sound is good, I think it can be better.... I have been looking for wiring diagrams and specs online, but no luck so far :(.

Just put this in today. The bass is much cleaner and deeper. Best $60 upgrade yet.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...61a16df2f8.jpg

Is that just the sub, or did you add an amp too? 8" correct?

Just the sub for now. Yes, it's the 8".

Awesome, Thank you. Thinking about installing a JL w1 today

Nice. Should sound good. Make sure it's the 2-ohm variety. I'm planning to replace the kicker with a punch PS3 since its suggest box volume is only .25 CF, which just about matches the OEM enclosure.

how did you put the grill for the sub out? and was that all you needed to do in order to swap the sub out? plug n play?

sorry for all the questions. i explored throwing a sub and amp in the back and i couldn't get over the fact that id be losing out on cargo space

You cannot simply remove the grill. Its held on by screws and you'll need to remove the panel to reattach it. I learned the hard way.


To remove the panel, remove the screw from the latch for the cargo net, remove the panel the goes across the lower tailgate latch Gently pull the entire right side panel away from the vehicle, the plastic clips should come out pretty easy. You dont have to completely remove it, but it helps. You'll need a torx bit to remove the sub from the enclosure. Start to finish, it should only be about a half hour.

I was able to just pull the cover off. I used a flathead screwdriver to get under the lip and then pried it off with my hands without much resistance. It popped right back in afterwards.

Note that I had to drill new holes to mount the sub.

The screw under the latch in my car is impossible to get out lol. That thing feels like it is loctite in there.

impact driver?

Problem is the top of the screw started to strip apart in the five minutes I was trying to unscrew it. 😡

How did this turn out? It was my impression that it wasn't so much the OEM subwoofer that was the problem but the processing in the factory amp/HU which doesn't allow low frequencies to that particular driver for protection reasons. IF that's the case then replacing the subwoofer should yield little if any improvement.

Not well. I bought the sub before realizing i needed a 2 ohm speaker. JL doesnt make a shallow 8 inch 2 ohm. I think im going to end up going with the Rockford Fosgate punch as a previous poster mentioned. Nominal efficiency at low power, and designed for a small enclosure.

The stock speaker is pretty dainty. I'm sure there will be some sort of improvement.

Believe it or not stock speakers are typically more efficient with a sensitivity rating well above 90db so they do get loud with minimal power. Unfortunately, all of the shallow mount speakers including the P3 have very low sensitivity ratings so your not going to have significant output with an OEM amplifier powering it even with a 2 ohm subwoofer. I'm unfamiliar with the stock location depth but I would look at infinite baffle (free air) before shoving something in a small sealed enclosure with stock power.

I just finished installing a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D to power my little 8 inch Kicker comp c sub and it sounds great.

For anyone wondering which wires to tap for the loc converter (the thing that turns the subwoofer output from the stock amp into an RCA input for the aftermarket amp), and which wire to use for the amp remote turn on, here's a photo.

The one on top is the speaker output (red and green, top and bottom wires on the far left) and the one on the bottom is the remote turn on (the light brown wire, bottom row, second from the right)

Next I'll be replacing the kicker with an alpine r series sub, which is a much better speaker than the cheap comp c.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...67585f8488.jpg

Great post, thanks. Where in the vehicle is the amp located? I already tapped into the sub wires close to the sub but would like to access the remote ON wire. Did you put your new subwoofer in a box in the cargo area or did you replace the factory sub?

The amp is behind the the driver's side kick panel on the right. You can just pull the kick panel off - it's held on with clips.

I'm using the stock enclosure. It's about 0.3 cubic feet which is listed as the ideal volume for the Alpine SWR-8D4 I just ordered. I also ordered a 1 inch spacer in case additional clearance is needed for this sub.

One note about the remote on I'm using - It's only live when the motor is running so no subwoofer until I start the engine. Since the amp would drain the battery pretty quickly anyway, this is actually a good thing.

Tapping into sub wire
 

For two reasons, 1. Because the stock amp is about 6 feet closer to new amp than the subwoofer. 2. Because the stock sub wire is crap so I replaced it with some high quality 12 gauge wire.

I also did some frequency analysis and discovered the subwoofer line is skipping some crucial frequencies between 30 and 50 hz. The center dash speaker doesn't filter those frequencies but does cut off below 35 hz. So, now I'm running the sub lead into the left input channel of the amp and the center lead into the right input. It may seem wonky, but I'm now getting bass throughout the entire range and it sounds killer. It's a mono amp and combines the two channels perfectly.

Also, as a side note, I just bought at 10 inch alpine type r to replace the 8 inch r series. The enclosure is going to require some serious modification to get it to fit but it should sound even more amazing. :)

Yes, the pre amplified signals are unfiltered. The problem is that for some reason the volume controller was built into the amp. So to tap the amp input wire would mean your sub would be the same volume regardless of the volume knob's position.

I read it first somewhere on this forum and then verified it for myself. Such a disappointment since it makes enhancing the system a big pain in the ass. If your amp can't handle the line level inputs, you could always get a $15 Line Output Converter. Or better yet, get an LC2i which will make your bass sound better and will also let you splice into any source without changing the draw on the amp (and subsequently the volume of the other speaker) due to its ultra high input impedance.

Installed a 10 inch Alpine R-w10d4 and replaced all the other speakers with NVX V-Series. It sounds incredible. I'm done. :)
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...2d23bacaa4.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...5682db2c8c.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...d58ba74a79.jpg

That's pretty awesome. What are you using to push the subs and the NVX V-Series? Can you show pics of that?

The sub is powered by a Fosgate R500X1D under the driver's seat. It's putting out 663 watts at 2 ohms. I'm using the stock amp for everything else, since it powers all the NVX speakers just fine.

The hardest part was modifying the stock enclosure so the massive 22 lb. Alpine sub would fit and have enough volume. I ended up mounting 4 .75 inch MDF speaker rings to get the clearance and bump the volume up from .33cf to .40 cf.

I can't express how awesome the bass sounds. Super low and clear at any volume. It feels like I have 2 12s in the back when I turn it up.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...89f30215be.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...a85cef2970.jpg

That is the most creative way to use a stock sub enclosure I've ever seen. Good job bro I'm glad you're enjoying the benefits.