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Hey everyone. Just got my car back from my 105K major service. My mechanic said everything went smoothly. However he noticed that my axel was leaking, specifically at the axel seal. It was transmission fluid. Crazy.. I never never new that area leaks tranny fluid 🤯
Anyway, he recommended that I replace both the seal and the axel. How do you guys feel about replacing the entire axel too? Is this one of those things that if the seal leaks then just replace the entire thing? That's the way he made it sound like I should and he's never one to scam me. He told me to buy the parts myself and he'll do the labor for $175.
Lastly, if you were me, would you just buy the seal from the dealer? I hear when it comes to getting seals etc, that getting from dealers is usually a good thing. What about the axel? Dealer? Rockauto? Any specific brand? Thanks everyone.
Hey everyone. Just got my car back from my 105K major service. My mechanic said everything went smoothly. However he noticed that my axel was leaking, specifically at the axel seal. It was transmission fluid. Crazy.. I never never new that area leaks tranny fluid 🤯
Anyway, he recommended that I replace both the seal and the axel. How do you guys feel about replacing the entire axel too? Is this one of those things that if the seal leaks then just replace the entire thing? That's the way he made it sound like I should and he's never one to scam me. He told me to buy the parts myself and he'll do the labor for $175.
Unless your axle is presenting with some kind of 'issue' @105K miles (i,e. clicking while turning, boot deterioration / grease leak) I would not replace it yet.
He is recommending to replace both the trans housing seal & axle because 'while he is there' correcting the leak the old axle has to be removed anyway; therefore, justifying the $175 labor is easier for both parts replacement, IMHO.
Originally Posted by t0md0
Lastly, if you were me, would you just buy the seal from the dealer? I hear when it comes to getting seals etc, that getting from dealers is usually a good thing. What about the axel? Dealer? Rockauto? Any specific brand? Thanks everyone.
Unless your axle is presenting with some kind of 'issue' @105K miles (i,e. clicking while turning, boot deterioration / grease leak) I would not replace it yet.
He is recommending to replace both the trans housing seal & axle because 'while he is there' correcting the leak the old axle has to be removed anyway; therefore, justifying the $175 labor is easier for both parts replacement, IMHO.
You're right he told me it was the driver side that was leaking. I'm assuming based on you mentioning that as well.. does that mean that transmission fluid does not leak from the passenger side typically? And yeah, he mentioned it was the axel seal and that since he was going to be down there to just replace the seal, that I should replace the axel as well because there is always a chance that if he just replaced just the seal it could still continue to leak and then we'd have to do it all over again.
Right now, my axel CV joints look fine. No clicking, no boot deterioration or grease. I just did the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, thermostat, drain and fill tranny fluid.. so yeah.. I do plan to keep the car maybe another 3-5 years at least. Even my mechanic said that for a 2013, the engine looked very clean, no oil leaks or anything so I'm guessing after this major maintenance I should be able to go another 100K easily (whether I keep it that long is another topic).
I looked on Rockauto and it's actually very affordable. They're reputable but I don't know about the brands they have are? Or if anyone on this forum had any experience with those axels? Under $100 sounds a lot better than $345-365. Uggghh.. What do do..
Yah it would be worth replacing if it's not absurdely expensive. Rockauto is great and reliable. The dealer will probably be insanely expensive.
Yeah you're absolutely right. Dealer is absurdly expensive! Do you have any experience with getting your axel replaced on the 2G RDX? Did you go with Rockauto as well? I'm really debating hard if I should go aftermarket or OEM. I'm thinking of taking my mechanic's advice to just do both but maaaaan it's not cheap going OEM route for sure.
Hey everyone. Just got my car back from my 105K major service. My mechanic said everything went smoothly. However he noticed that my axel was leaking, specifically at the axel seal. It was transmission fluid. Crazy.. I never never new that area leaks tranny fluid 🤯
Anyway, he recommended that I replace both the seal and the axel. How do you guys feel about replacing the entire axel too? Is this one of those things that if the seal leaks then just replace the entire thing? That's the way he made it sound like I should and he's never one to scam me. He told me to buy the parts myself and he'll do the labor for $175.
Lastly, if you were me, would you just buy the seal from the dealer? I hear when it comes to getting seals etc, that getting from dealers is usually a good thing. What about the axel? Dealer? Rockauto? Any specific brand? Thanks everyone.
The only reason to replace the axle for a transmission fluid leak would be due to damage to the axle inner joint surface the seal rides on. If the axle has never been off the car I doubt there would be any damage other than some surface rust, which can easily be cleaned off. It is possible to damage the axle seal surface if someone gets carried away with a hammer and chisle when removing the axle from the transmission (left side). If there's no damage to the axle, axle boots, noise or vibration from the axle then I wouldn't replace the axle, especially if you plan to go the aftermarket route for a replacement axle.
The only reason to replace the axle for a transmission fluid leak would be due to damage to the axle inner joint surface the seal rides on. If the axle has never been off the car I doubt there would be any damage other than some surface rust, which can easily be cleaned off. It is possible to damage the axle seal surface if someone gets carried away with a hammer and chisle when removing the axle from the transmission (left side). If there's no damage to the axle, axle boots, noise or vibration from the axle then I wouldn't replace the axle, especially if you plan to go the aftermarket route for a replacement axle.
Yeah was literally thinking the same thing.. why replace it if nothing is wrong with it. And yeah, it's never been off the car. At 102K miles however... would you maybe think it might be wise to replace anyway? How long do axel/CV joint lasts anyhow? Also, when people replace the CV joint... they typically replace the entire axel correct? It's not worth just replacing the CV joint?
Are those the same thing? I just want to make sure I'm buying the right seals. Cause when I go to the "transmission-automatic" section in Rockauto I'm seeing other seals as well such as:
Are these seals something completely different?
I'm not very savvy when it comes to cars but all I know is my mechanic says their is a seal that's inside (on the driver side) after he removes the axel, that needs to be replaced. He says I can wait a few weeks to a month or so but don't wait too long. I've never noticed any liquid in my garage but he did show me a picture that trans fluid was running along the trans case seam and it was a bit dirty. Basically just residue. My guess is it's more of a seep and not a leak.
Yeah was literally thinking the same thing.. why replace it if nothing is wrong with it. And yeah, it's never been off the car. At 102K miles however... would you maybe think it might be wise to replace anyway? How long do axel/CV joint lasts anyhow? Also, when people replace the CV joint... they typically replace the entire axel correct? It's not worth just replacing the CV joint?
I would just inspect the boots routinely for any tears and leave the original axles on the car unless there's a noticeable noise or vibration from them. From my experience and reading about the lack of quality with aftermarket axles it's always best to repair or replace the axles with OEM parts. Acura does sell the outer and inner joints so you can repair an axle but it's not worth it unless you do the work yourself and it's a messy job. Sometimes the whole axle is out-of-stock from Acura and the only other route is to repair with OEM parts or go to the salvage yard if you want to keep it OE. I had to replace an inner joint once on my 1st gen RDX because the axles weren't in stock at the dealer and I purchased a rebuilt one from O'Rielly's that vibrated so ended up repairing the original axle.
You're right he told me it was the driver side that was leaking. I'm assuming based on you mentioning that as well.. does that mean that transmission fluid does not leak from the passenger side typically? And yeah, he mentioned it was the axel seal and that since he was going to be down there to just replace the seal, that I should replace the axel as well because there is always a chance that if he just replaced just the seal it could still continue to leak and then we'd have to do it all over again.
The passenger side has, what they call, a half shaft assembly; #12 below. The end (yellow arrow) plugs into the sealed torque converter case side of the trans. (image below).
Then the passenger side axle, #1 (magenta arrow end) plugs into the #12 half shaft assembly as illustrated.
Typically, the half shaft end (yellow) is a straight shot 'fixed' insertion point into the Torque converter case.
Can it leak here over time?
Certainly, if the seal wears due to extreme exposure to dirt / mud et al; however, not often.
torque converter case:
Originally Posted by t0md0
I looked on Rockauto and it's actually very affordable. They're reputable but I don't know about the brands they have are? Or if anyone on this forum had any experience with those axels? Under $100 sounds a lot better than $345-365. Uggghh.. What do do..
Therein lies the caveat, sometimes aftermarket axles can be 'hit or miss'.
FWIW, people on the 3G TL side of the forum have used RockAuto procured GSP & APWI axles as suitable inexpensive Chinese alternatives to high $$$ OEM's.
Are those the same thing? I just want to make sure I'm buying the right seals. Cause when I go to the "transmission-automatic" section in Rockauto I'm seeing other seals as well such as:
Are these seals something completely different?
I'm not very savvy when it comes to cars but all I know is my mechanic says their is a seal that's inside (on the driver side) after he removes the axel, that needs to be replaced. He says I can wait a few weeks to a month or so but don't wait too long. I've never noticed any liquid in my garage but he did show me a picture that trans fluid was running along the trans case seam and it was a bit dirty. Basically just residue. My guess is it's more of a seep and not a leak.
It is the output shaft seal.
The easiest thing to do is take the OEM part number and use the 'Part Number Seach' tab on RA's website below.
If they have an 'equivalent' it will take you right to their selection.
That leaves one less prone to error or misinterpretation.
Just populate the part number field with the oem part #, click search.
The passenger side has, what they call, a half shaft assembly; #12 below. The end (yellow arrow) plugs into the sealed torque converter case side of the trans. (image below).
Then the passenger side axle, #1 (magenta arrow end) plugs into the #12 half shaft assembly as illustrated.
Typically, the half shaft end (yellow) is a straight shot 'fixed' insertion point into the Torque converter case.
Can it leak here over time?
Certainly, if the seal wears due to extreme exposure to dirt / mud et al; however, not often.
torque converter case:
Therein lies the caveat, sometimes aftermarket axles can be 'hit or miss'.
FWIW, people on the 3G TL side of the forum have used RockAuto procured GSP & APWI axles as suitable inexpensive Chinese alternatives to high $$$ OEM's.
Wow thanks so much for this illustration. This helps me visualize a lot and I'm learning as I go. Much appreciated! I can see how the transmission fluid leaking from the driver side would be more common.
Here's my issue right now though. Although I would prefer to buy OEM, one it's expensive, two it's not even available on Acura Parts Warehouse. I called the dealer near me and they also said it's special order. It's just not one of those things they replace very often and also because my car is a tad older. But I'm thinking.. isn't that why it should be stock? Lol. Newer cars are needing axel replacements very often.
I guess my options at this point is keep looking for other OEM websites, pay $500 from the dealership 😢, purchase aftermarket and roll the dice, or lastly just tell my mechanic to chance it and keep the original axel after replacing the seal.
Yeah you're absolutely right. Dealer is absurdly expensive! Do you have any experience with getting your axel replaced on the 2G RDX? Did you go with Rockauto as well? I'm really debating hard if I should go aftermarket or OEM. I'm thinking of taking my mechanic's advice to just do both but maaaaan it's not cheap going OEM route for sure.
I had gotten my car with 96k miles, and by the time I had 120k I had been under belief I was going to need new ones. My car was totaled so I never had any of that work done. My private mechanic has always gotten the parts for me so I'm not sure where he sources them from, but I just assume it's from local parts stores.
Here's my issue right now though. Although I would prefer to buy OEM, one it's expensive, two it's not even available on Acura Parts Warehouse. I called the dealer near me and they also said it's special order. It's just not one of those things they replace very often and also because my car is a tad older. But I'm thinking.. isn't that why it should be stock? Lol. Newer cars are needing axel replacements very often.
I guess my options at this point is keep looking for other OEM websites, pay $500 from the dealership 😢, purchase aftermarket and roll the dice, or lastly just tell my mechanic to chance it and keep the original axel after replacing the seal.
There is one more option that you could consider, it is a 'roll of the dice' like a new foreign aftermarket axle in the form of a low mile 'used' OEM axle from a salvage yard?
It all depends on your risk tolerance and urgency in replacement.
Here is an example from lkqonline.com:
For a few dollars more you can 'opt' for their warranty to make it a little less risky? Used Auto Parts Online - Fast Shipping, Free Warranty | LKQOnline
I too have the same issue today, on with my car, she has 91k miles on her...
I just went to the tire shop to have my tires rotated for free & they did their inspection. They found a leak at the axle transmission seal, passenger side, told me that I will soon have to address the leak. They gave me a quote of around $700 replacing both sides with after market axles, OEM around $1,200. They also found the front sway bar links, bottom rubber is ripped again. I had them replaced around 6k miles ago, with Moog K750667 & K750666. That is crazy to see this happen, I guess I will replace again, but will buy Acura OEM parts. I thought the Moog would be better, then OEM because they have grease fittings to help the life of the part. Could I have gotten an old part?
The tire shop is saying that I have to replace both axles, because of the age of the car. Is this a normal practice, to replace axles on high milage cars?
Oh BTW, last oil change was done at the dealer, they said the leak was a rear main seal, $2k or $3k to repair, so I guess this is easier to repair than the rear main seal...
I too have the same issue today, on with my car, she has 91k miles on her...
I just went to the tire shop to have my tires rotated for free & they did their inspection. They found a leak at the axle transmission seal, passenger side, told me that I will soon have to address the leak. They gave me a quote of around $700 replacing both sides with after market axles, OEM around $1,200. They also found the front sway bar links, bottom rubber is ripped again. I had them replaced around 6k miles ago, with Moog K750667 & K750666. That is crazy to see this happen, I guess I will replace again, but will buy Acura OEM parts. I thought the Moog would be better, then OEM because they have grease fittings to help the life of the part. Could I have gotten an old part?
The tire shop is saying that I have to replace both axles, because of the age of the car. Is this a normal practice, to replace axles on high milage cars?
Oh BTW, last oil change was done at the dealer, they said the leak was a rear main seal, $2k or $3k to repair, so I guess this is easier to repair than the rear main seal...
The rear main seal is expensive because you have to take apart the transmission and some other things apart from the engine, causing labor time to increase a ton. Getting only 6k miles out of a part in not normal. As far as the axels, if they have any issues than you'd be better off replacing both instead of just one.
@234ValeDucati This is indeed interesting. I'm sorry you're going through what I'm going through except mine being on the driver side, which it sounds like based on a member here said, is the more common side of the two.
Are going to go with OEM or aftermarket axles? I suppose you could just replace the faulty one first then wait to see how the other one would hold up over time? What is the common practice? Replace both? Because now you have me wondering if I should be replacing both as well??
Here I am over here just thinking of just replacing the seal only.. smh. Cars.. love hate relationship for sure. Lol.
t0md0,
This all started out as rear main seal leak, found during one oil change ago, by the Acura dealer. This resent tire rotation/oil change by the tire shop, they showed me it was leaking from the passenger transmission output seal.
Do I change the both front axles? With a car approaching 100k miles, I will be doing the full service, spark plugs, timing belts etc. I feel that yes if needed, change both axles. Do you just automatically change the both front axles, because of the milage? When I had my Saab Turbo, many, many years ago, I had a transmission leak at the seal. My mechanic just changed the leaking seal, the axles where good. They said don't change things unless they are so worn, that it is going to cause personal injury.
I am really thinking that I just change both output transmission seals, along with the 100k service & timing belts. If upon inspection, the axles look bad, change out the axles too.
Now OEM or aftermarket parts? I am thinking that OEM is the way to go after my issue with the front sway bar end links. I replaced them 6k miles ago with aftermarket Moog parts from Napa. Now the rubber boots are all ripped, both sides. These even had grease fittings, which I thought would be a great option for the longevity of the link.
I am looking for a new shop to work on both my 2010 Honda CrossTour and my 2013 Acura RDX. I'll get a second opinion on the work needed to be done, on the Acura. I will post my findings.
03-28-2024, 09:38 AM
