How long before waxing a new RDX?

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Old 06-05-2012, 09:10 AM
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How long before waxing a new RDX?

Hi All,

I am the new proud owner of a 2013 RDX! Picked it up last night and while finishing up I asked about how long before I should have it detailed and waxed. The salesperson told me I should wait an entire year which seemed very long to me. I usually like to have a car full detailed (clayed, etc) as soon as possible to get any factory metal dust off the paint.
Interested to hear your thoughts and thanks in advance
Old 06-05-2012, 09:56 AM
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Congratulations on your new RDX.

I am by no means an expert, but I have already clayed and waxed mine and there are no ill effects that I can see. I don't think the clay was necessary as it took virtually nothing off. Acura must do a good job of protecting their cars.

I am of the belief that you need that extra layer of protection immediately. If you think of it this way, the protection that the dealer tries to sell you before you drive off the lot is little more than glorified wax, so I really don't think there is any harm. Gentle with wash, lots of lube for clay, and a good wax. I dont think I would polish anything at this point, but again, I am no expert.
Old 06-05-2012, 10:19 AM
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I agree with mike that you should not wait to wax the car. The paint is baked at the factory so it is fully cured. My car had wax on it when I got it (beaded really good when I first washed it) but not sure if the factory or the dealer applied it. I put a second coat of carnuba on prior to installing the splash guards. I can see a slight residue line on the top in the outline of the plastic shipping film so I may clay those. I prefer Zaino products but they are actually a polish so will wait a year or so to convert.

As an aside, I am crazed about the technique for washing my cars. I never use high pressure or automated washes and have a hose that I have cut the end off to make sure it can't scratch. I put the soap on the sponge (which I change out often), squeeze it to saturate the soap and water into the sponge, and keep the water flowing onto the paint ahead of the sponge as I gently rub. When finished I pat it dry with a clean white bath towel. My wax lasts a long time and I avoid little microscratches

Last edited by Dorsey; 06-05-2012 at 10:27 AM.
Old 06-05-2012, 10:21 AM
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usually, the paint is HORRIBLE from the dealer.

because they use a mass washing machine, swirl GALORE!

the detailers on this board, usually wash,dry,correct paint, seal, wax right as soon as they get a new vehicle.
Old 06-05-2012, 10:33 AM
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as soon as you get it home.

the paint is already cured on the car from the factory b/c they are able to bake the whole thing. unlike post body shop work where you have to wait 90 days before doing anything to it. plus the car probably sat for a bit before it was even delivered to the dealer.

i waxed my TL the day after i brought her home in 05. which was 4 days off the truck. and the records show the production of the car was early 05. protect your paint!
Old 06-05-2012, 10:42 AM
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MichealSF...As other have said, do not wait and proceed with the wax with no fear whatsoever!! I always wax my vehicle when I acquire them and there are so side effects so go to town!

Me and mikejmack bought our RDX at the EXACT same dealership and I can attest that these guys do an amazing detailing job when they deliver the vehicle (waxed and collinite applied). I still do mine anyway just because I love waxing/detailing cars but it certainly didn't need it

Have fun and if you need advice, don't hesitate
Old 06-05-2012, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by TLtrigirl
i waxed my TL the day after i brought her home
You and I must have been seperated at birth! it freaks me out how alike we are
Old 06-05-2012, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by weather
You and I must have been seperated at birth! it freaks me out how alike we are
ha ha ha the one thing that differentiates us....i don't crawl around underneath my car cleaning the undercarriage. i might help install new toys...but cleaning the undercarriage
Old 06-05-2012, 01:03 PM
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Wow thanks for all the very helpful and quick replies!
I thought it was a bit off but wanted to run it by others that are in the know.
I will definitely give it a good wax later tonight.

Thanks again and glad to be part of such a great board.
Old 06-05-2012, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MichaelSF
Thanks again and glad to be part of such a great board.
No worries....we all love helping each other out! Just make sure that as you become a regular here, that you also help out the newbies
Old 06-05-2012, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TLtrigirl
ha ha ha the one thing that differentiates us....i don't crawl around underneath my car cleaning the undercarriage. i might help install new toys...but cleaning the undercarriage
*lmao* Well...that was suppose to be my little secret that no one was suppose to know about. That is why you should never have a few glass of red wine and pour your heart on these forums Just for the record, I never posted any uncompromising pictures of myself here right?!?
Old 06-05-2012, 07:13 PM
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^^not that i know of. i do know you posted about some of your undercarriage detail obsession some where.
Old 06-05-2012, 07:57 PM
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^^^ *sigh of relief**

Actually, the undercarriage details was posted in my TL thread
Old 06-05-2012, 10:04 PM
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You guys are too funny.
Started waxing tonight and I have to admit there is lots more metal then I am used to!
I have a trusted detailer for my other car and already called :P Kudos to you guys that maintain it on your own! I keep telling myself once they do it right the first time it will be easier to upkeep....

But it did give me a chance to take a look at the paint. To my shock its actually in pretty good shape, not many swirls so the dealer must of treated it well.
Old 06-06-2012, 06:07 AM
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MichealSF...Washing/Waxing cars is not a quick process and sure involves a lot of work if you want it done properly For me, its a nice to relax and just get my mind off the daily stress of work so when I decide I want a good "zen" moment, I just block everything off my calendar for that day and just detail till the cows come home. I wash the vehicle then back into the garage, slap on the twangy ol' classic country tunes and just start waxing. For me, its enjoyable and its also about the satisfaction once its done and as TLtrigirl mentioned, I go as far as sliding myself under the vehicle and cleaning all the undercarriage, suspension parts and all. Mind you, its never a huge tast as my car never seee a drop of rain so its mostly to wipe off any dust or light grime from the road then anything else. I still have time to sip a few beer as I go along...you can't have c&w music without beer....I mean com on, Merle Haggard with no beer would be wrong on so many level
Old 06-06-2012, 12:14 PM
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Would some of you experts give recommendations for the "best" wax? Actually, I know there is no "best", but how about what you like? I just read about paint sealers versus carnauba waxes and found the synthetic sealers very interesting. Any thoughts from you experts?

I did use the Zaino stuff once, but found the multi step process too time consuming.

Thanks for any help, Jim
Old 06-06-2012, 12:44 PM
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Hawkeye....Now again, as you know, everyone has their preference and I will tell you what I like to use. I know you don't want to do a multi steps but just bear with me

I like to use the Mothers (Step 2 - micropolishing glaze) as the first application. This will remove any impurities, oxydization, minor swirls and just bring back the shine/color. Its relatively easy to apply (minus the elbow grease to deeply apply it) and a breeze to remove after you let it dry to a haze.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/08100.html

After the car is done, I then apply a thin coat of Collinite. This stuff is a breeze to apply, its almost like vaseline. You just apply it very lighty throughout the vehicle, let it dry completely otherwise you will just keep spreading it. For me, after the whole vehicle is done, I usually do other stuff (clean the inside, or clean the undercarriage) for about 20 minutes after I am done applying it. Then I just wipe it off and it will turn into dust and just come right out. This will just give you an INCREDIBLE beading power. I am in love with this stuff. Using jointly, for me, has given me the most satisfactory results.

http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/insulator-wax/

Again, that is just what I like to use and although it is a 2 step process, the biggest amount of work is the Mothers because that is where you will remove the swirl marks, remove any spots like tar or brake dust etc. Once thats done, the Collinite take about 10-15 minute to apply as you are just greasing the car, and then another 15-20 minutes to remove.

One MAJOR ADVICE!! Be careful to NEVER EVER have any wax touch your black moldings/trims. If you do, get a wet rag and wipe it off immediately otherwise, your black plastic/trims will just change color with time.
Old 06-06-2012, 12:46 PM
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sealants are man made, where as wax is natural.

the sealant will last a lot longer than a wax.

I use Blackfire wet diamond sealant
Old 06-06-2012, 12:50 PM
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wax is all personal preference.

i use meguiar's stuff (some OTC and some detailer's line), klasse twins, most recently natty's blue has made it into my collection (read some good reviews, and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg).

other products: optimum products (ONR and spray wax)...

you can certainly use a synthetic sealant and then top it off with your favorite carnuba to give a deeper wetter look. just know that the carnuba durability will not be long, but damn the car looks good!
Old 06-06-2012, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by weather
MichealSF...Washing/Waxing cars is not a quick process and sure involves a lot of work if you want it done properly For me, its a nice to relax and just get my mind off the daily stress of work so when I decide I want a good "zen" moment, I just block everything off my calendar for that day and just detail till the cows come home. I wash the vehicle then back into the garage, slap on the twangy ol' classic country tunes and just start waxing. For me, its enjoyable and its also about the satisfaction once its done and as TLtrigirl mentioned, I go as far as sliding myself under the vehicle and cleaning all the undercarriage, suspension parts and all. Mind you, its never a huge tast as my car never seee a drop of rain so its mostly to wipe off any dust or light grime from the road then anything else. I still have time to sip a few beer as I go along...you can't have c&w music without beer....I mean com on, Merle Haggard with no beer would be wrong on so many level
I agree with you a good detailing is never a very quick process. I just underestimated how different an SUV is to detail. The other car is a SLK so its low to the ground and lots less surface area.
You definitely take it to the next level with doing the undercarriage. It never even crossed my mind to do, plus this is the first car I have owned I could fit under
Old 06-06-2012, 11:07 PM
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Since people are throwing out products they like I will toss in my 2 cents.
I used to use Zaino but switched to Adams Polishes about 2 years ago. The products are great, easy to use and they offer top notch customer service.
They have a great tiered approach so you can go as deep as you want into the cleaning addiction.
BTW I have nothing against the Zaino products. I just was not getting the wet look I wanted on a dark colored car. I still use their leather conditioner and cleaner.

FYI they are having a 15% off fathers day special right now.
Old 06-07-2012, 06:05 AM
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try Griot's Garage products
Old 06-07-2012, 08:42 AM
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I guess this thread a good place for my question since there are several clean fanatics here.

I usually use one of those "touchless" car wash places after a trip or bad weather that gets my car very dirty. But, I recently read somewhere to avoid the high pressure "touchless" car washes. I always thought washes that had those brushes and cloth strips were more likely to damage the finish than a "touchless".

So, what is your opinion about car washes, other than "don't".?

Thanks for any advice, Jim
Old 06-07-2012, 09:16 AM
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Hey Jim (hawkeye), there is no doubt that a "touchless" car wash is better than a brush/cloth one in that at least, you are not using a devices that could be covered with minuscule rocks/grit that could scratch your finish. That being said, any touchless car washes use pressure as its means to dislodge the dirt.....I find these are horrible at stripping the effects of the wax. If you spend an amount of time waxing a car by hand/polisher and then go to a high pressure wash, you don't want to have most of its effect washed away in the process. Also, alot of these touchless car wash places don't use fresh water (they recycle it) so you can't be sure that (depending on where you live) wouldn't get grime, salt etc mixed in the water.

I will occasionally use the "high pressure" washers (either at home or at the car wash but stricly if I want to remove an excessive amount of salt/sand that they put on the roads here in canada in the winter. Again, this would not apply to the Acuras as I don't drive them in adverse weather condition but I would use it on the Accent (Hyundai) or the Rav4 I had last 2 winters.

Hope this helps, if you have any other questions, please let me know
Old 06-07-2012, 11:09 AM
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any automated car washes =

i'm out washing the car if it's above freezing during the winter. i freeze my arse off but ONR washes work wonders and save time.
Old 06-07-2012, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by weather
I will occasionally use the "high pressure" washers (either at home or at the car wash but stricly if I want to remove an excessive amount of salt/sand that they put on the roads here in canada in the winter. Again, this would not apply to the Acuras as I don't drive them in adverse weather condition but I would use it on the Accent (Hyundai) or the Rav4 I had last 2 winters.
I wish the "edit" option would stay on much longer as I realize I wasn't clear on something....I was trying to say that I only use a pressure washer in the winter to remove any salt/dirt "IN THE WHEEL WELLS, UNDERCARRIAGE and BOTTOM OF THE DOORS where the salt can collect.

As TLtrigirl says, if we get any "warmer" spell, I will be out there freezing my buttocks to try and get the car half clean. It will never be as good as in the spring/summer/fall but at least, its better than nothing.

Speaking of you TLtrigirl....Don't want to sound dumb here but what does ONR stands for? I'll blame the fact that I speak French to give me an excuse for not knowing this acronym.
Old 06-07-2012, 12:47 PM
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ONR = optimum no rinse and wash

awesome stuff. i find myself using it all the time to wash the cars vs the hose wash and rinse (except i do give the car a little hose rinse before going at it with the ONR bucket wash esp if the car is really yucky). saves a little time and water. use this stuff then follow up with your favorite detail spray or spray wax...car is all pretty again.
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Old 06-07-2012, 02:15 PM
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Just a little more "info" to toss into the ring. I like to find something with the least amount of work with highly desireable results. I wandered in to the detailing department of my Honda dealer a couple years ago, since the delivery of my new car was being "prepped" there. I met the guy who ran the dept. I struck up a conversation...with the intent to "pick his brain" on what he does to make painted car bodies look great and give a lasting protection. He went through a long list of products that he housed in a large cabinet. One of the best, easiest to apply ( if you know how to properly run a buffer) and giving excellent paint protection was...Nano wax. It didn't ring a bell, but, I may have run across it some years back, but, just didn't remember. I then watched him buff out my new car with it, after of course, the obligatory wash and cleaning. The body surface was as slick as oil on ice...or something like that! lmao!

Note: This dealer buffs out all their new vehicle deliveries..and it's NOT a "dealer added charge." Just something they do to make the new car leave with a great look...and a smiling customer.

The key thing is this. I have him buff out my cars with Nano wax twice a year and have found it to be a great protector of the painted surfaces. My vehicles are always easy to clean and touch up.
The product is pretty expensive....and he was nice enough to give me a large squirt bottle full to take home for any touch up later on I might want to do...by hand. I'm not a buffer expert at all.

And, so, I've learned that after years of doing all the multiple steps and hours of work on other processes....there is an easier way. Is it the best? I have no idea. BUT, this is what I do know....this stuff works! It holds up for months under the higher UV rays here in Colorado at altitude, the washings, the "crap" they put on the roads in the winter, etc.

So, I just wanted to throw out there another alternative that just might be desireable for some of you.

Take care. My new toy has been born and will arrive by the 20th of June...hopefully sooner. Still waiting for it's "birth certificate"...the VIN number!
Old 06-08-2012, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Colorado Guy AF Ret.
Take care. My new toy has been born and will arrive by the 20th of June...hopefully sooner. Still waiting for it's "birth certificate"...the VIN number!
Actually the birth certificate is the "Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin". It will have the date (MM/DD/YYYY) you car was finished along with some other interesting information. The door jamb sticker only has month and year.

It functions similar to a title in that Honda Motor Company transfers it to the dealer. On the back is space for numerous transfers to other dealers and/or to the final purchaser. Sometimes the dealer has you sign this directly or you may sign a power of attorney for them to transfer it to you. Either way this is what they turn in to your state to get the car titled. Ask your dealer for a photocopy of the "Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin". I asked for it the last four purchases and they gave it to me.
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:54 AM
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As most of you know by now, I am not a big fan of manual labor, even a labor of love. So, after a lot of research on local detailing places, I had paint sealer applied to my Silver Moon Metallic yesterday. The car looks great. The surface is slick compared to "smooth" prior to the wax. I don't feel any grit and I don't see any swirls or any other blemishes in the paint, but the Silver Moon is very reflective and it is very difficult to see detail on the surface. The main reason I selected paint sealer is because I don't think Silver Moon will ever have that deep liquid look that a dark color will with carnauba wax. Plus, the paint sealer will last a lot longer than carnauba.

Thanks for all of the advice, Jim
Old 06-09-2012, 11:49 AM
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GRDX.......again thanks for that. Loosely that is what most dealers call assigning or receiving the VIN number when they have a car that is about to be built and on their way to the dealer....the recognition of an assigned number for life that pretty much signifies it's "official birth." If that VIN were to ever be removed, then legally that vehicle ceases to exist.

I will ask for the Certificate of Origin just to see what it all contains. I may have seen one at some point in the past...just didn't pay that much attention to it.

Thanks again!
Old 06-09-2012, 02:44 PM
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I saw my MCO when I paid the F&I guy but did not ask for a copy. I thought it was strange because it had a listing for port of entry (POE) as Jacksonville, FL. I am in Central Florida - I assume Acura has a central receiving point for truck or rail from Ohio at Jax which then distributes to individual dealers in this region.
Old 06-09-2012, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Dorsey
I saw my MCO when I paid the F&I guy but did not ask for a copy. I thought it was strange because it had a listing for port of entry (POE) as Jacksonville, FL. I am in Central Florida - I assume Acura has a central receiving point for truck or rail from Ohio at Jax which then distributes to individual dealers in this region.
My dealer told me that Seattle was a distribution center for most or all dealers west of the Rocky Mountains. Everything goes by rail to Seattle, then usually by truck to the dealers. So, Jacksonville is probably the distribution center for some or all of the southeast US.

Jim
Old 06-10-2012, 12:12 PM
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Just finished a coat of carnuba on top of whatever the dealer put on. Pleased with the results. We have 2 hatches of love bugs each year in my part of Florida and their guts etch the paint if you leave them on for very long. A good coat of wax on the front bumper/hood and side view mirrors buys some time. I noticed that the seam where the two parts of the side view mirrors are joined is a problem on dark cars. It is just big enough to create a white line of wax but too small to get the wax out with a toothpick or fingernail.
Old 06-13-2012, 01:58 PM
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As trigirl mentioned a "spray wax".

I thoroughly washed my car a few weeks ago and waxed it after. I also do not drive my car much.

It is cloudy enough to wash it during the day here and not 100 degrees.

My question: what are your recommendations for a good spray 'wax' after washing and drying to keep the gloss going??
Old 06-13-2012, 05:59 PM
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If you want shine and durability, most of the time you'll do best if you remove the basic treatment applied by the dealer using plain Dawn dishwashing soap, clay bar the vehicle, then apply a coat or two of a quality polymer sealant.. Some folks will finish with a top coat of carnuba wax for extra shine. The polymer will seal and shine 4-6 months or longer depending on exposure to your environment. Carnuba is not a sealer nor nearly as long acting. BTW, most polymers are real easy to apply and don't leaveany residue trace. Google for more good info. about them. I even apply to windshield & windows after using newspaper to minimize streaks before sealing. This lasts longer than Rainex.
Old 06-13-2012, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by sauceja
As trigirl mentioned a "spray wax".

I thoroughly washed my car a few weeks ago and waxed it after. I also do not drive my car much.

It is cloudy enough to wash it during the day here and not 100 degrees.

My question: what are your recommendations for a good spray 'wax' after washing and drying to keep the gloss going??
i use optimum spray wax as an in between after car washes. look it up. they say 5month durability....but i'm not hanging my hat on that one. i dont' use it for durability i use for a little extra protection and added shine between major details.

you could use a detail spray as well (i use this too).
Old 06-21-2012, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MichaelSF
Hi All,

I asked about how long before I should have it detailed and waxed. The salesperson told me I should wait an entire year which seemed very long to me.
Mine came with Autobutler sealant applied so, apparently the answer is 'right away'. Just something the dealer does on all deliveries. Looks fantastic and deepens the finish appearance. Some here might cringe at the thought, I'd imagine.
Old 07-08-2012, 11:30 AM
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Automatic car wash dangers

I don't use the touchless car washes anymore after scratching the left front rim of my 2012 tsx wagon when it was 2 days old. I think the water jets they use to clean the undercarriage somehow protruded and scratched one of my rims. I went back to that car wash and looked at that rail that you drive along and couldn't see how it could possiby do that but it did somehow. I believe it is more likely to happen with low profile tires. Anyway I wash my MDX and TSX by hand and find I enjoy it much more and can appreciate the looks of the car by the feel of it.
Old 07-08-2012, 04:16 PM
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Mikey Dallas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 74
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I put a coat of pure carnuba on mine one month after taking it home. Have never "clayed" a car. Have to park mine in the Texas sun during my work day, so was wondering how often anyone out there thinks I should wax it. Would once a month be too much? I am washing it often as well. Is the clay really important?


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