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Nice car but aren't you a bit disappointed in the gas mileage?
Looks like a great price too. Where are you located? Might be worth a road trip to go to your dealer.
I may have to write a letter to Honda Motors, but it was up to 13mpg by the time I came home yesterday night. Maybe I'll sign up on one of those fuel trackers and keep everyone posted.
I'm in Atlanta, GA. Car dealerships are everywhere. I contacted 3 of them and their offer was about $40,750, $41,000, and $41,300. Just be firm on what you're willing to pay and that you're not in a rush to buy a new car, but if the price is right, you're willing to sign and close.
PM me if you want details and specifics. I don't think people care about my pathetic attempt to swoon the internet sales manager.
Documentation fees ranged from $598 to $699. I paid $598. This is fairly typical for GA.
Sales Tax - GA no longer applies a sales tax but something called Title Ad Valorem Tax. I think it's currently at 7% of sales price.
Title & Registration - Don't remember off top of my head. It was reasonable and not something that could make/break the deal.
A little buyer's tip: If you are financing, you can ask to pay for the accessories as a separate transaction to avoid interest costs. I'm sure there's pros/cons of doing a separate transaction for the accessories, but it's nice to know that you have that option.
To be accurate you need to add doc fees into the price paid. Still a good deal but doc fees are nothing more than additional dealer profit and should be figured in as such.
To be accurate you need to add doc fees into the price paid. Still a good deal but doc fees are nothing more than additional dealer profit and should be figured in as such.
Documentation fees vary. Live with it.
I'm glad you mentioned it though since I forgot to mention it, but if you want to further discuss this topic, feel free to start a separate thread.
The point is that the fees are part of what you paid for the car itself. Do you really think the cargo tray and wheel locks were "free"? I'll sell you a new car for 35 cents so long as you pay my fees.
The point is that the fees are part of what you paid for the car itself. Do you really think the cargo tray and wheel locks were "free"? I'll sell you a new car for 35 cents so long as you pay my fees.
While documentation fees vary by state, like taxes, it makes sense to quote a negotiated price including destination prior to documentation and taxes.
Unlike taxes that vary with the negotiated cost, the documentation fee is a fixed amount charged by dealerships on each sale - regardless of car cost.
While most dealerships will refuse to negotiate on the doc fees (that way they can say "we never negotiate doc fees"), like anything but taxes they are negotiable - even if the final paperwork still shows them you can reduce the cost of the car by that amount.
If a poster says "I paid $XXX out the door" that tells me nothing. I have to figure out how much tax was included, title and state fees as well as any accessories that may have been included. A few years ago, Maryland had a 3.25% car tax and a $99 cap on doc fees. The neighboring Virginia had a 5.75% tax on cars and a $399 doc fee cap. Negotiating the identical price for the car, a $20k car would have an "out the door" cost of $800 more in Virginia.
Today the costs vary even more. Both states have increased the caps on what the dealer can charge for documentation fees and MD now charges the full 6% on sales tax - but only the difference between your trade and the new car. Accordingly, the "out the door" price is completely irrelevant in most states for comparison purposes.
While a dealer might be more likely to negotiate in states with higher doc fees (they are pure profit), the negotiated price that people like the OP posted will ultimately help the entire community get better pricing.
For the individual buyer, the out-the-door price is vital but the only common denominator between my purchase in Virginia and the OPs purchase is the negotiated price.
Man, I really dig the car in that color. Your photos are great.
Congratulations.
I was very interested in that color, but couldn't figure out what color it really was. My last Honda was Alabaster Silver and had no, zero, nada blue in the mix. I couldn't tell if this new color had a blue tint to it, or not. So, I got white. But, your pictures have me second guessing myself.
The quoted negotiated price needs to include dealer fees in order to be meaningful to others. The person who got $20K with $75 fees got a better deal than the next guy who got 20K with 700 fees even though they both got the same negotiated price. The important number is what you are paying in total for the car itself. Call it the OTD less TTL.
The quoted negotiated price needs to include dealer fees in order to be meaningful to others. The person who got $20K with $75 fees got a better deal than the next guy who got 20K with 700 fees even though they both got the same negotiated price. The important number is what you are paying in total for the car itself. Call it the OTD less TTL.
We are clearly going to continue to disagree on this. The negotiated price is always before fees and is the only way that it can be compared in a different state or jurisdiction.
Documentation fees are technically there to reimburse the dealer for the costs of doing the paperwork to sell the car. They aren't going to admit that they really are pure profit.
There is a better chance of getting a lower price in a state with a high doc fee so you can use that in negotiations.
Your example above should have actually been "who got the better deal? The guy who negotiated a $20,600 deal in a state with the $75 doc fee or the guy who negotiated $20,000 in the state with the $700 doc fee?"
The real answer is the guy who negotiated the $20,000 deal and then used that figure to buy a car in the state with the $75 fee.
So I guess in a way you have a point. It would help to know what the doc fees are, but they'd still need to be separate from the negotiated price.
For example
"I negotiated a price of $20,000 from an MSRP of $20,001.99. The state I live in caps doc fees at $12,000. I also got a free cup of coffee and a stale donut while waiting for the finance guy to bend me over and sell me rust protection, paint protection and interior leather protection. I spent another $8000 in the finance office but somehow walked away a bit confused. Although I got the leather protection, my car has cloth seats. I still think I did real well though. What do you guys think?"
You were right, the slate silver looks cyan or light blue in the sun. In the shade it looks silver.
Originally Posted by Desert Ridge
Man, I really dig the car in that color. Your photos are great.
Congratulations.
I was very interested in that color, but couldn't figure out what color it really was. My last Honda was Alabaster Silver and had no, zero, nada blue in the mix. I couldn't tell if this new color had a blue tint to it, or not. So, I got white. But, your pictures have me second guessing myself.
You need to look at what you really paid for the car itself. That would necessarily include the fees. The dealer figures that's what he sold the car for. Salespeople hate these fees as they don't get commission on them --- only the dealer profits.
Man, I really dig the car in that color. Your photos are great.
Congratulations.
I was very interested in that color, but couldn't figure out what color it really was. My last Honda was Alabaster Silver and had no, zero, nada blue in the mix. I couldn't tell if this new color had a blue tint to it, or not. So, I got white. But, your pictures have me second guessing myself.
Enjoy your new car.
Thanks! What's interesting is that blue was my first option, but it wasn't quite what I expected with my own eyes. The gray interior also seemed like it would age faster than parchment or ebony. Next option was graphite metallic with ebony interior, but the slate silver kept poking at me from the side.
If anyone is undecided on the exterior color, you really have to take a look at the different colors and see them with different natural/artificial light.
Originally Posted by ceb
While documentation fees vary by state, like taxes, it makes sense to quote a negotiated price including destination prior to documentation and taxes.
Don't mind him. Dude's fixated on dealer profits from documentation fees.
And since nobody's posted any silver RDXs.. here's one more from the dealership:
You can probably tell but the photo hasn't been edited other than size crop and jpeg compression. I like how the silver turns into a dark gray in the shade. Again, something you really should see up front.
I also got a free cup of coffee and a stale donut while waiting for the finance guy to bend me over and sell me rust protection, paint protection and interior leather protection.What do you guys think?"
Not much if you bought it from the salesman....
Lol my experience has been that they send in the hot young staff girl to sell undercoating and that kind of crap.
Thanks! What's interesting is that blue was my first option, but it wasn't quite what I expected with my own eyes. The gray interior also seemed like it would age faster than parchment or ebony. Next option was graphite metallic with ebony interior, but the slate silver kept poking at me from the side.
If anyone is undecided on the exterior color, you really have to take a look at the different colors and see them with different natural/artificial light.
And since nobody's posted any silver RDXs.. here's one more from the dealership:
You can probably tell but the photo hasn't been edited other than size crop and jpeg compression. I like how the silver turns into a dark gray in the shade. Again, something you really should see up front.
Very nice! But you are really making my upcoming color selection that much harder. Since I now drive a silver TSX and wife has a black RDX, I had decided to go for something different - maybe blue or graphite. But that silver looks very nice...
FWIW, our experience with a 2010 black RDX with "taupe" interior (light, similar to parchment) is that it's not that much worse at showing dirt and wear. Of course, if you carry a lot of stuff or rugrats, your mileage will most likely vary.
The biggest problem with light colored interiors is dye transfer from jeans, leather belts or other leather clothing.
When I quit wearing jeans I decided that I could buy light colored interiors again. Of course the graphite TSX wagon only comes with the black interior.
Very nice! But you are really making my upcoming color selection that much harder. Since I now drive a silver TSX and wife has a black RDX, I had decided to go for something different - maybe blue or graphite. But that silver looks very nice...
FWIW, our experience with a 2010 black RDX with "taupe" interior (light, similar to parchment) is that it's not that much worse at showing dirt and wear. Of course, if you carry a lot of stuff or rugrats, your mileage will most likely vary.
I was going to go with the graphite metallic, but I really like the slate silver in the shade.
Took a photo of my co-worker's GLK350 and sent her a text message, "your car looks so pretty!"
I thought you said 6% + 1%/month. But you already got about 9% off. So, it is not impossible to get 12-15% off if a dealer is being aggressive and really want to sell on Christmas eve or New year's eve.
It's been a week since my purchase, so I figured it's a good time to pop the off-road cherry. It'd be cool if we could start an off-road photo thread. Not sure if anyone does any serious off-roading on trails and probably not a good idea, but I'd like to see more photos of the RDX on dirt roads, camping, crossing tiny creeks, etc.
It's been raining since yesterday, so I just wanted a little taste. You know, just the tip. Just to see what it feels like:
After driving Toyota 4X4s for for the last 25 years, I wince every time the RDX is in dirt. Even with SH-AWD, they feel fragile. Probably tougher than I give them credit for though.
I may have to write a letter to Honda Motors, but it was up to 13mpg by the time I came home yesterday night. Maybe I'll sign up on one of those fuel trackers and keep everyone posted.
I'm in Atlanta, GA. Car dealerships are everywhere. I contacted 3 of them and their offer was about $40,750, $41,000, and $41,300. Just be firm on what you're willing to pay and that you're not in a rush to buy a new car, but if the price is right, you're willing to sign and close.
PM me if you want details and specifics. I don't think people care about my pathetic attempt to swoon the internet sales manager.
Congrats, we pick up the a RDX AWD Advance Tuesday from Ed Voyles Acura, these are rare cars in GA, I am getting the last one within a 150 mile area and fortunately that one was at Nalley and is being driven over so will have about 20 miles on it. We are lucky here to have so many Acura dealers close enough to have really competitive prices. I was not as lucky as you with price because the car is so rare and also they knocked so much off my TLX I am letting them make a few $$ on the RDX. We are getting the car for invoice so I am OK with that.
Before going off road, you should clean your car and wax it with Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax. Will help protect it.
Originally Posted by yeoyes
It's been a week since my purchase, so I figured it's a good time to pop the off-road cherry. It'd be cool if we could start an off-road photo thread. Not sure if anyone does any serious off-roading on trails and probably not a good idea, but I'd like to see more photos of the RDX on dirt roads, camping, crossing tiny creeks, etc.
It's been raining since yesterday, so I just wanted a little taste. You know, just the tip. Just to see what it feels like:
Congrats, we pick up the a RDX AWD Advance Tuesday from Ed Voyles Acura, these are rare cars in GA, I am getting the last one within a 150 mile area and fortunately that one was at Nalley and is being driven over so will have about 20 miles on it. We are lucky here to have so many Acura dealers close enough to have really competitive prices. I was not as lucky as you with price because the car is so rare and also they knocked so much off my TLX I am letting them make a few $$ on the RDX. We are getting the car for invoice so I am OK with that.
What color RDX are you getting?? I have a feeling it won't be silver..
What color RDX are you getting?? I have a feeling it won't be silver..
Sorry to disappoint, but it is SSM. She wanted Graphite, but I reminded her how dirty her TSX looked all the time, especially in the spring. Here in GA pollen season is nightmare for dark colors. Also from a pure safety standpoint I like lighter cars, there was a study years ago that dark color cars are harder to see in various adverse weather (cloudy, sunset, etc) thus the slight increase in potential accidents. I have had seen it first hand on a dim road at dusk, dark color car driving without lights or DRLs and I almost did not see it coming when I pulled out form a side street. I wish DRLs were mandatory on all cars like our friends to the North.
I've installed a few exterior accessories since the last photo. Also purchased mudguards but haven't had time to install them. Here's a couple from today:
I've installed a few exterior accessories since the last photo. Also purchased mudguards but haven't had time to install them. Here's a couple from today:
Still need to accessorize it. No roof rails though. Running boards and fog lights maybe.
In Canada the next level up is the Elite which has different wheels and fog lights but I couldn't get a decent deal on the Eilte. I was able to negotiate a very good price for the Tech though.
Winter tires are going on soon. Can't wait til winter to climb up a snowy road to the top of a ski hill.
10-03-2015, 10:15 PM
But you are really making my upcoming color selection that much harder. Since I now drive a silver TSX and wife has a black RDX, I had decided to go for something different - maybe blue or graphite. But that silver looks very nice...
