The two listed above are the most expensive and "active" i.e. the will shut down VCM engagement all the time. Both require a small wire to the battery.
Both will show an actual overheat situation on the temp gauge and shut themselves off.

There are simpler, cheaper ones, that have either a dial or a replaceable resisters. Those can allow VCM in specific conditions, like creeping along in bumper to bumper traffic.
I think it kind of depends on where you live. If the temps swing a lot summer to winter, the active ones are the best bet.

 

A few days ago i drained the transmission fluid for the first time. It splashed all over the place bcause it was so liquidity, literally like brown color water. I replaced it with maxlife. The result as claimed was day and night. The hard shifting was significantly reduced. Almost to nothing, but it still there. Transmission feels alot more solid. I want to have the software update installe so i made an appointment today at acura dealer and i wonder if i need to tell them about the bulletin cause the technician dint mentioned anything about it over the phone. It seemed to me he thinks i dont knw nothing about the issues and he wants to start me up from the beginning running dignotics and stuff bfore getting to main problem taking my money in the process. And the bulletin says the fix can be done under warranty of 8 years or 80 000 miles my car has 76

 

Good Job and congrats! Couple questions...did you drain/fill your ATF 3 times or just once?

 

👍 i did the 3 times and am never going back to dw 1. So what do you think about the bulletin. Shuld i be able to get the update under warranty cover, by warranty they mean under Acuras warranty right?

 

As I have said many times, there is no magic to Maxlife fluid and nothing wrong with Honda DW-1. Of course it seems like
a world of difference, it has fresh fluid. Probably for the first time. At 76k, it should have had two normal drain & fills by now.
I do think the software update is worth it. It keeps the fluid from breaking down as fast. It also stops that abrupt downshift when slowing down.
A Honda automatic is not like any other. It will never be as smooth as one may be used to in other cars. It operates completely different from all the others.
Why? Read this:

https://global.honda/heritage/episod...ondamatic.html

 

Everyone has their own opinion based on their biases and experience. I don't believe there's anything magical about MaxLife ATF as much as I believe Honda's OEM ATF is subpar for the application. I also do not believe the recipe is as simple as fresh fluid. Why do I believe all this? Because I've replaced more than once essentially brand new OEM fluid in a mis-behaving Honda tranny with MaxLife ATF and the symptoms / bad behavior went away. In my opinion, OEM Honda ATF is subpar and it'll never go into another of my Honda / Acura vehicles. I'm closing in on a million miles of personal use with MaxLife ATF across a dozen Honda / Acura vehicles...MaxLife ATF in each and every one of them without an issue of any kind. I do a x3 drain/fill on any "new to me" Honda vehicle for a baseline and then it's a single drain/fill @50k miles thereafter. Been working for me for a lot of years and miles!

 

My opinion...it couldn't hurt, if it's convenient for you to take it in. My wife's RDX was outside the mileage envelope by the time this TSB came out. Even if her RDX did qualify...I'm not sure I'd drive the 30 mile to the Acura dealership to have it done as there's simply no issues with drivability.

 

Seriously, what do you run, a taxi service? Considering the average person drives about 12,000 miles a year, how old are you? 101 (if you started driving at 18)?

 

I have heard that countless times for other products. On the Porsche forum, an owner is replacing his control arm bushings with an aftermarket set and it made a world of difference. Of course I am rolling my eyes. But his old original factory control arm bushings were 15+ years old with 120,000 miles. Well duhhh, what do you think even the lowest quality new bushing would feel like...better of course.

Well I'll be the other guinea pig. I've always used what is specified in my cars, either factory or a specification and I have never had a problem...with cars I have had 16 and 14 years since new. I'll use the DW-1. My 2017 RDX could not shift any smoother. Mind you it still has the original fluid and the mileage is low though.

I did put some of the Maxlife fluid in my girlfriend's Hyundai since it listed the spec for her transmission and it was available.

 

Think parallel use...not linear. Ave miles per year? HaHa...not in this exclusively Honda household. Taxi service? Yes! Me, wife and (3) kids who all drive Hondas to the tune of >20k miles each / year and there's six or seven of them in my personal fleet at any given time. Do that for a decade + and it's not hard to get there.

 

Now for the fun of it and this is if you keep records like I do.

Which cars and what years and did you buy them new or used and if the latter, when did you buy them into their life?

 

There's no way anyone could keep up with maintenance / repairs on 6-7 vehicles without documentation. I keep a spreadsheet on every vehicle in my "fleet" that documents every screw turned on them. Seems like I'm doing something every weekend on some kind of machine LOL...whether that be cars, mower, boat or jet skis.

 

I am 100% familiar with that with three cars, five motorcycles and various power equipment. Plus working in a standards lab for a good portion of my life, lots of math and record keeping.

 

Well all i knw is that max life is way less xpencive then ome fluids for honda and acura, and seems to do the job right so am staying with it. I did the software update, now i can let go the gas pedal and the car would actually keep going with momentum a yards more without having to give it more gas to be able to make it to the red light. I thank people like you guys for posting all this info with put it so many people out just gives up their car thinking thers no solution or waisting tons of monu at the dealer👍

 

Rdx running smooth. Transmission is not perfect but it is way better now, the only problem i think i came up with now is the mpg. I just came back from a road trip of about 1000 miles long, the highest mpg i got on the highway was 21.3 it wasn’t a straight line trip dough. Couple up and down hills. But then i have only been using it for driving on the freeway now hoping to get more mpg, it takes about 60 miles driving on the freeway in straight terrain for the mpg to go up one decimal (from 21.1 to 21.2) here is a list of all the things i have replace so i know is not a tune up what is needs.
cleaned throttle body sensor
Air filter/cabin filter
trans fluid/engine oil
pcv valve
alignment
tires balanced

my only guess is that i still need to replace spark plugs but thats the only thing left to do
any suggestions of what the problem might be

 

Tire pressures are a cheap fix for the fuel mileage. I think I keep my wife's RDX at 38 COLD. (Cold is important) The plugs are not due until
105K, but the VCM in other Honda's with your VCM set up are eating plugs. (By the way, the VCM system changed starting in 2016 on RDXs, now not as bad)
So if it ran with VCM active a lot with the previous owner, the plugs could be degraded. Rock Auto has a pretty good price on the plugs. You should only use
the specific OEM NGK plugs. Be very wary of killer prices. There are fakes out there, so many that NGK has a page on their site to help id them.

Bythe way, those listed MPG figures are done driving 65 on flat roads. Those of us who drive more briskly...will never see them. 21 MPG is pretty good for this little rocket.

 

I have 125K mileage on my 16 RDX AWD and i just about 500 miles trip and had 24~25 MPG on highways
my normal routine of maintenance is as below (I do DIY)

7,500 mile interval engine oil change (Mobil1 synthetic 0w-20 ext.) and rotation of tires
40K~50K interval on transmission / transfer case / differential fluid replacement
15,000 ~ 20,000 miles air filter clean up depends on how dirty filter is (I have K&N Filter)

when i Hit 100K, I let shop do the timing belt and water pump replaced
I replaced Spark plugs

I need to replace all 4 shocks and KYB parts are on back orders so i am waiting for these to come in
so far i have no major problems with RDX and it's reliable i would say

 

yea i thought about tire pressure, i have em at 33 psi cold, supposedly thats the recommendation, but i have a feeling that is too low, but at the same time i dont wanna risk having a blow out, 38 psi sounds a bit high for me. About the sparks i was just planning on getting some from oraily. I dint knw it was that important to get oem. The car has 78 k miles so its been running with does sparks with vcm active that whole time bfore i shut it off, i think that has something to do with the poor mpg i am getting

 

hello, I have a question I have the same jerk ,shuddering in my 2010 MDX for a while I have changed the fluid 4 times with Acura fluid and I recently changed the 2 and 3 gear pressure switch and the transmission fluid filter with no luck . The issue I have is when pressing the gas pedal gently the gear shift jerks from 1 to 2nd and 3rd. In traffic or taking off from a complete stop. If I press the gas hard it will do it but it’s not that noticeable. My question is what’s a S-VCM controller and how can I get one of those? Thank you.

 

S-VCM CONTROLLER ORDER PAGE

As I mention in the post you quoted...you might also consider performing a drain / fill with MaxLife Synthetic ATF. Either way...Good Luck!

 

thank you so much I will give it a try.

 

A few years ago when I wanted to change the ATF on my VW Passat, I cheaped out and used MaxLife instead of OEM for a total difference of $80.
Shortly after that the tranny started slipping. I have read many mixed reviews and comments about switching to non-OEM fluid but am not convinced if its worth the risk. For every success story you can find a failed one. Given transmission is by far the most critical part of every car, why would someone take risk for such a small reward? I learned my lesson the hard way and am not going to repeat it again. Especially when a full ATF change on a RDX cost only $52 compared to MaxLife of $17.

 

There's no one advocating the use of MaxLife Synthetic ATF for Volkswagen Passats in this RDX thread...nor have I encountered anyone elsewhere on this Acura forum advocating same. Having said that, I don't use MaxLife Synthetic ATF in my Honda / Acura transmissions because it's cheaper...though that's a nice byproduct. I use MaxLife Synthetic ATF in my Honda / Acura transmissions because I've found it to be superior in both performance and longevity to OEM Honda / Acura ATF in my experience (which is considerable)...that's both the old Z1 and the newer DW-1.

Your experience with MaxLife Synthetic ATF was different in a different application.

That's the great thing about these forums...folks can stop by and relay their experiences and opinions. MaxLife Synthetic ATF is clearly not for you and you should not use it. That doesn't mean many thousands of other Honda / Acura owners have not enjoyed the same success with MaxLife Synthetic ATF as I have. I certainly wasn't the first person to put MaxLife Synthetic ATF in their Honda...no, back in the day, I was having issues with a new 08 Odyssey that the dealership couldn't get sorted with multiple ATF replacements, software updates and torque converter replacement. I read of others having same / similar issues who had success with MaxLife Synthetic ATF and decided to give it a try myself. Success then and ever since!

Good luck with both your Passat and RDX...

 

Fair enough, but then the use of MaxLife ATF is your opinion as well. And this is the internet with valid info and lots of bad info as we both know. You know oil threads. I use what is recommended in my owners's manuals for the last 45+ years and never had an issue.

I did use MaxLife ATF in my friend's Hyundai Accent. No problems and also no difference in operation, not that there was a problem before the change.

But I have no issue using whatever Honda sells. It worked for me in the fourteen years of Honda ownership. I also do not have any issue with my four+ year old Acura transmission which is talked about a lot on here.

 

The question is, was it approved? I assume it would be...

 

Sure, in my opinion, based on considerable experience. But not just my opinion either...there's many in this thread and thousands of other Honda / Acura owners out there who share that same experience as well.

There's no reason for you to switch from what you're doing. Obviously you're not having issues. BUT...the reason it gets talked about a lot on here and elsewhere is that people do have those transmission issues in their Honda / Acura. I've never suggested or advocated for anyone to change to MaxLife Synthetic ATF who's not having those characteristic transmission symptoms...to include you.

Had I not had the Odyssey transmission issues 13 years ago...would I have even tried the MaxLife Synthetic ATF? No, I would not have...no reason to. However, I did have transmission issues and followed the advice of others at the time and tried MaxLife Synthetic ATF...this solved those issues then and continues to provide superior performance IMO to this day.

 

As long as this is stated a personal opinion not a fact, I guess it's OK.

So is yours.

 

What is the background of that vehicle? Did you buy it new or used?

The reason why I ask is because I come across lots of experiences on forums based on nothing. Be it oil, batteries...whatever.

For example on another forum I am on, some member makes the silly statement that "the aftermarket control arm bushings totally transformed his car". Well duhhh, a new control arm bushing will outshine some worn out 15 year old original control arm bushing that is totally worn. What did he expect? Of course when this car was new and evaluated by journalists, it was flawless.

 

Total sarcasm mode on - Well then...I profusely thank you for your overwhelming graciousness in permitting me to express my opinion in this thread which I started > 3 1/2 yrs ago - sarcasm mode off

Fact: I've been using MaxLife Synthetic ATF for over a decade and closing in on a total of 1 million miles of personal use with complete success...there are thousands others out there experiencing same in their Honda / Acura as well.

​​​​​​Not just mine...but thousands of other Honda / Acura owners out there as well. Do you actually have any experience with MaxLife Synthetic ATF in a Honda / Acura vehicle? If not...your anecdote is irrelevant to both this thread and forum.

Here's a thought...maybe your (bad) experience with MaxLife Synthetic ATF in your Passat, has to do with not knowing how to properly perform an ATF exchange...you'd think someone who "works for a major auto company" would know the RDX transmission doesn't have planetary gearsets and know better than to run the pump dry...

​​​​​​

 

Well...if you do the simple math (2021 - 13yrs) you can easily assume my 08 Odyssey was purchased new. Regardless...take a peak back up to post #143 (to which you responded) and you can read...again

 

I will back up jjrphfs on the acceptability of the Maxlife fluid. I have been on the Odyclub since 2002 and had two of the odys that had this transmission originally.
The fluid Honda used at the time (Z1) was not up to the task. Many over there started using the Maxlife, with a bottle of lubeguard, to try and prolong the life of a trans
that failed a lot. Maxlife is available in gallon jugs at Walmart for a reasonable price. When you have to change the fluid every other oil change as the savvy did,
price and availability was germane. I think the current Honda fluid is as good as Maxlife.

I also must agree with Tech that often the miraculous improvement experienced has more to do with just renewing the fluid or part. So many folks have never had a vehicle that
needed regular trans fluid changes. They ignore until symptoms of neglect arise.

So many folks on here think their Acura is something special and not just a Honda with soundproofing and an engine tuned to take advantage of premium fuel. It is just a nice Honda.
(not that there is anything wrong with that) some of us drive the them a lot and need maintenance items to be affordable.

As I said here in a previous post, all Honda automatics have required regular fluid changes since first introduced. The schedule built into the MID oil life service algorithm
sets the trans fluid change (normal drain& fill approx 1/3 of the fluid) at 45,000 miles or the 6th oil change. Honda has changed that in the vehicles with this drive train that are taxed
more to every 30,000 or the 4th oil change. (Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline, MDX) so if jjrphfs is changing every 50k, he is actually behind schedule. I think he is probably doing a full 3x
fluid change at that interval so it is probably OK.

Speaking of 3x fluid changes, all these methods that do not use the factory method of doing a complete change do not work. If anyone ever offers you a "flush", run!
Disconnecting cooler lines and using the transmission's pump to replace the fluid may not do as much damage as a flush machine, but you only change the fluid in the
sump that way. You end up dumping fresh fluid. Here is how to really do it:
drain the fluid, replace the plug, refill with the amount drained and then take it out for a drive. More than just around the block. The trans must go through all the gears,
the torque converter must lock up. You should even make sure it goes into reverse. You do that three times, using a fresh crush washer the last drain. There is also a gasket
on the fill plug if you use that. Many use a couple of funnels, a piece of hose and patience to fill through the dipstick hole.
It is often easiest to just do a normal drain & fill on subsequent weekends. That easily gets you that driving in.

I am still begging my local Acura dealer to do the software update on our 2016 RDX. Having had it done on my Odyssey, I can tell you all that it is totally worth it. Stiffer shifts and long coasting. Most importantly, the software keeps the trans from breaking down the fluid prematurely. No matter what fluid you use. No magic there either.

Because this post is not long enough already: The VCM system changed in the RDX starting with 2016 models. It is much better. But if you have a 2013-2015, muzzling the VCM is highly
recommended, especially if you plan to keep it long term. I may still do it to my 2016, just to save the active, very expensive, motor mounts. They are the main reason you don't notice VCM.

 

egads and I agree on most points related to drivability and longevity of these Honda / Acura transmissions. There's a couple of points I feel worth mentioning where we differ...based on my experience.

I don't, nor have I ever used Lubegard or any other additive package alone, or in conjunction with MaxLife ATF. I don't have anything against it...I've just never found it necessary to achieve the desired results.

I drain / fill x3 with MaxLife ATF initially and then a single drain / fill every 50k miles thereafter. This with every Honda / Acura in my personal fleet...both in the past and now. IIRC, the transmission fluid change interval in my 2013 RDX owner's manual is every 60k miles.

I don't believe OEM DW-1 is as good as MaxLife ATF with regard to performance -or- longevity.

I also don't believe my (or other's) MaxLife ATF success is simply because the fluid going in is fresh. My 08 Odyssey and 13 RDX, for example, both had fresh OEM fluid in them when they had serious drivability issues and those issues were corrected with a 3x drain / fill of MaxLife ATF.

 

You misread the owner's manual. The asterisk that says replace at 60k refers to the timing belt under severe conditions. The trans fluid replacement is a code 3 on the maintenance minder.
It sets, along with other items, based on the number of times the oil life has reached 15% and been reset. Before the oil life algorithm, the mileage interval was 7500 for this V-6.
The asterisk without a number next to it by the trans & transfer fluid replacement means "not available on all models" No Honda ever had a 60k trans fluid change interval. They started at 45k
and went to 30k in the Odyssey & other heavy vehicles. Note that those change intervals are for a normal drain & fill. All my Odysseys (I'm on my 3rd, 10th Honda) got/get a normal drain & fill every other oil change or every 15k. In the olden days, the manual trans did have a 50k fluid change interval.

I do not mean to suggest that RDX owners would need lubeguard. That was just something the second generation Odyssey owners found that helped with the issues those versions of this trans had.
I think it is entirely possible that the vehicle purchased with supposedly fresh fluid probably just had a single drain & fill. Certified Pre-Owned vehicles actually get very little beyond an oil change. They just
pay for the warranty to get extended 12 months.

Honda introduced DW-1 in 2011, so anything older with OEM fluid was Z1, a decidedly inferior product.

 

This is not fact​​​​​​ just a personal experience. Now you want to extend it or label it as fact go ahead but your so-called success with 1 million miles is not a fact about using MaxLife in Honda/Acura.

Compose a verifiable list of thousands and let us see them There are thousands who have also had trouble using non-OEM including MaxLife in their Honda/Acura.
The bottom line is that you still don't get the point. If it has worked for you just don't prescribe it to others. Although, most people are wise enough to consider risks and costs before using ATF.

Was this a sarcasm too? You got that wrong. I know how to change ATF in both European and Jap cars. Have done that for over 30 years. The rest is history. But am waiting for your list

 

That's possible...the wife's RDX in currently in the shop having the rear differential EDPS solenoid replaced, so I had to pull up a .pdf of the 13 RDX manual. Regardless...

Correct...*4

And "not available on all models" refers to the fact not all RDXs are AWD and thus Transfer Fluid doesn't apply.

Correct...and the sub-code 3 mileage interval is 60k miles:

Maintenance Minder 3 – 60,000 Miles

• Replace transmission and transfer fluid
  Driving in mountainous areas at very low vehicle speeds or trailer towing results in higher transmission and transfer temperatures.
  This requires transmission and transfer fluid changes more frequently than recommended by the Maintenance Minder. If you regularly drive your vehicle under these conditions, have the transmission and transfer fluid changed at 60,000 miles (100,000 km), then every 30,000 miles (48,000 km).
• Independent of the Maintenance Minder information, replace the brake fluid every 3 years.
• Inspect idle speed every 160,000 miles (256,000 km).
• Adjust the valves during services A, B, 1, 2, or 3 only if they are noisy.

 

Someone needs to look up the definition of Fact

Pure garbage...do a simple google and then crawl back under your rock

​​​​​​Hardly

​​​​​​Really? You'd think the guy who "works for a major auto company" and has been doing ATF changes for over 30 years would know his Acura transmission doesn't have planetary gearsets and know that it's completely stupid to run the transmission pump dry...

 

Someone needs to search for definition of BS

 

Kid, you don't have the sense god gave a toaster.

Now, that's just my opinion. If you want to learn about it as a fact, you'd need to see a qualified medical specialist.


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"No matter how cynical I get, I can't keep up." -- Lily Tomlin

 

I have a headache

 

Page 273 of this pdf of the 2013 owner's manual does not say anything about a 60k change interval for those fluids. Perhaps you are looking at some older year?

http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...3/X41313OM.pdf

I'm concerned that others may think 60k is a trans (or transfer case fluid interval. It is not. *4 (in red) refers to the timing and drive belts, not trans fluid.

[img]blob:https://acurazine.com/59e37bf0-6511-4cf0-92c3-0958b7b29f8b[/img]1Maintenance Service Items

• Independent of the Maintenance Minder information, replace the brake fluid every 3 years.
  
• Inspect idle speed every 160,000 miles (256,000 km).
  
• Adjust the valves during services A, B, 1, 2, or 3 if they are noisy.
  

■ Maintenance Service Items

[img]blob:https://acurazine.com/25886eae-fe67-4a9a-b10f-c08be3328f86[/img]System Message Indicator
Maintenance Minder Message

[img]blob:https://acurazine.com/dec47873-bdc2-4b4b-9fef-e4043b9933eb[/img] [img]blob:https://acurazine.com/ef2c0d20-2eb5-496f-8576-7b055f57da50[/img]Main Item

Sub Items

CODE

A ●

Maintenance Main Items

Replace engine oil*1

CODE Maintenance Sub Items

1 ● Rotate tires

3 ● Replace transmission and transfer fluid*

5 ● Replace engine coolant
6 ● Replace rear differential fluid*

[img]blob:https://acurazine.com/79d12ac3-720a-4096-b028-82bf16a443d0[/img]B ●

• ● Inspect front and rear brakes, service as necessary
  
• ● Check parking brake adjustment
  
• ● Inspect tie rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots
  
• ● Inspect suspension components
  
• ● Inspect driveshaft boots
  
• ● Inspect brake hoses and lines (Including ABS/VSA)
  
• ● Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
  
• ● Inspect exhaust system#
  
• ● Inspect fuel lines and connections#
  

Replace engine oil*1 and oil filter

* Not available on all models

Continued

273

2 ●

• ● Replace dust and pollen filter*3
  
• ● Inspect drive belt
  

Replace air cleaner element*2

TOC

[img]blob:https://acurazine.com/dfadfc7e-41db-4097-b810-18c0d210ae63[/img]4 ●

• ● Replace timing belt and inspect water pump*4
  
• ● Inspect valve clearance
  

Replace spark plugs

*1:

# : *2: *3:

If the message SERVICE does not appear more than 12 months after the display is reset, change the engine oil every year.
See information on maintenance and emissions warranty. Ifyoudriveindustyconditions,replacetheaircleanerel ementevery15,000miles(24,000km).

If you drive primarily in urban areas that have high concentrations of soot in the air from industry and from diesel-powered vehicles, replace the dust and pollen filter every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).

*4: Ifyoudriveregularlyinveryhightemperatures(over110° F,43°C),inverylowtemperatures(under- 20 °F, -29 °C), or tow a trailer, replace every 60,000 miles/100,000 km.

Index

Maintenance