MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Our latest Pitboard Posting discusses and issue that is sometimes overlooked by our customers:

Full article is here:
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/pitboard/?p=43

SlickShiftNall6

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the informative post Marcus.

I have been doing lots of research on camber kits lately, as they will most likely be next mod. I kept seeing these other brands only using one rear arm per side as opposed to the Ingalls using 2 per side. I wondered why?
I had planned on going with Ingalls either way because of past experience with them. However now I have substantial information that confirms Ingalls is the right choice!

On another note I currently have a broken front upper ball joint. I planned to just replace it and the other side with a camber kit. Ingalls offers 2 choices...
One kit is a full replacement upper A arm with ball joint. The other is just the ball joint replacement used with the stock arm. I'm dropped on coils, down 3 inches from stock and plan on running some wide 18 inch wheels and tires in the near future.
Which one is the right choice for me? Thanks

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i went the full arm replacement route (bought it straight from ingall's btw ) they seem to give more clearence then the balljoints, when trying to avoid hitting the strut tower (that much shorter)

but adjustable ball joints are nice in the respect that it makes adjusting castor easier though, just turning the ball joint does it

but another good point for the arms though, is that they are designed to use the stock ball joints (but they do include them already though), se when they wear out, you can just go down to the local parts store and get some stock replacement ball joints, such as some moog replacements, and not be bound to go for ingall's ball joints

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I like the Ingalls because they not only adjust camber, but they can adjust toe as well.

RooEng

The stock suspension has adjustable rear toe. Camber kits only adjust camber, not toe.

The Ingllals pull the bottom in vs pushing the top out giving you a few more mm's of clearance. They are easier to adjust being on the bottom. My SBC boots cracked 6 months after I installed them and the front Ingalls ball joint boots lasted only a few months. They don't have ball joints that wear out but they do have bushings that wear out.

For the front Ingalls ball joint, I had to drill a big ass hole in the shock tower to clear the nut and stud of the ball joint and replace the cracked boot with the stock boot.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I know the stock rear end allows for the adjustment of toe. The Ingalls SmartArms do both camber and toe.

http://www.ingallseng.com/38720-smar...-bushings.html

As for the front end, did you use just the Ingalls ball joints or did you get the entire A-arm?

RooEng

Me? I got the ball joints. The info I got was that they were the lowest profile available and I would be ok with Tein coilovers. They may be the lowest but they are a lot taller than stock and there's no way these would work unless I raised it up. I heard even the arms are taller than stock and will also hit.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Really? The arms looked shorter then just the ball joints. They dont have the big nut on the top of them. Then again, Ive not measured them up with the stock a-arms.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Yea I saw these adjustable arms and I thought they were pretty awesome. I didn't even know they made them! Skunk2 has an option for the 3g and TSX that is similar.

I am working on adding up those ingalls arms to our site. Lol, I didn't even know they had those!

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yes the ingall arms are taller then stock, but they also are shorter then the ball joint, due to no nut and such on top
they even got two options for the arms, like a +1 to -1.5 degree one; and then a -1 to -4 arm [which is kinda useless for most people) (difference is n the plate that the balljoint is in)

also it is nice how they got factory style inner bushings too, (like a pressed-in rubber mounted spherical bearing)

only thing there are a couple of issues with them that can easily be fixed though; i had to grind some of the arm off on the passenger side so it did not hit the body (only like an 1/8 inch though on the lip)
then also it could use some allen bolts with deeper hexs in them, you better have a good bit or they strip kinda easily

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I have 4 cheap adjustable arms in the rear that cost me about $69.
They have not came loose and have been working great for a few month so far.
My alignment guy was happy to see the arms and said The alinement was fast and went great.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Do you have a pic of the hole you cut threw your shock tower ?
What size hole did you cut?
I'm thinking of doing the same.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Just pull off the wheel and look at the mark the ball joints are leaving in the wheel house. Just put a hole there. That's what I would say anyway.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

or look in the engine bay itself, and see the indents there, then don't even bother lifting the car to drill the holes

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

^+2

Mr heal toe,That would be backwards wouldn't it ?
I would have to take the whole control arm out to do it from underneith. I can't even see the top of the balljoint from under with the suspension hanging.
It would not come out even that way either.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Well, assuming your wheel houses are not trashed yet, you could see marks in there before they actually make dents. Just sayin' :P

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

doesn't really matter cause you be removing the "trashed" part anyways when you drill it with the holesaw

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

your just talking about something you have no clue about.
I know you don't have a lowered car.
Because you would not even be able to see where it was hitting underneith.
ME: look for a way to see either of the upper ball joints.
drill one, then match the other from the top and drill that one. It will be where it needs to be,and it will be even.

You: Take apart half the suspension.
drill from underneith and your holes still don't come out even.
Then after putting the suspension back together and most your day gone you still have a handful of nuts and bolts in your hands saying where the F!@# do those go.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Ok that was kinda rude. I do have a clue on it. More than you probably know. But, I don't usually like to set my car up in a way that causes interference with parts. I honestly don't think the camber kits are even necessary in the front on these cars.

But if you insist and will end the discussion
YOU: Are right, it's easier from the top. :P

ME: Don't care that much about negative camber. Suggest keeping the stock ball joints.


Me to you RE: "the F!@# do those go" *thumbs nose at you*

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yeah front camber kits not mandatory on these cars, not a whole lot of camber gain on these cars when the suspension compresses

i think i said before , but i got mine cause i had cross camber issues (0.4 degrees, i know not much, but enough to annoy me though, with a ever so slight pull), and not because i had too much camber, hell it was like perfect, and it is still set at like -0.9 as it was before i got the adjustable issue (but they are dead even side to side now )

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Well said.