gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Tein basic coilovers are good for what you seem to be looking for. They as close to stock ride. Camber kit will depend on how low you put them. I'm not using one, but i'm not that low on them. Offset, depends on how aggressive you want the car to look. If you want an easy, no rubbing wheel, get something 7.5-8" wide and over 45 offset. Oh, and coilovers are easily adjustable.

Fkn_ninja_CLS

I really like the look of h&rs. It must be just me.... I guess the lower you go the nicer it gets. Would anyone know how driving over a speedbump with a 2 inch drop is like? 1.75, 1.5? Details please..

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Depends on the speed bump. This is how low my car is on 18s:



I dont scrape or rub, and Im about to drop the front another 1/4-1/2" or so.

Fkn_ninja_CLS

Did u change the offsets at all? It looks pretty nice.

n0rm

iTrader: (6)

What size tires were you running with the RJ Legends?

JoeyBello

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know the size of the stock sway bars? Where is the best place to get parts for the CL?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

I believe the front is 27mm and the rear is 19mm. What are you looking for??

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea, they are +48mm. Thanks.

I was running 235/45-18 I believe.

Gnuts is right, as long as you have a Type S. What are you looking for? Id suggest taking a look through the Black Market on here as well as looking at the Vendors section.

https://acurazine.com/forums/black-market-8/

JoeyBello

iTrader: (1)

I am looking for anything. I haven't seen many parts at all and the few I seen were very overpriced compared to the same parts for other cars. I want some kind of body parts- maybe a custom roof spoiler and rear wing. Rims, front bumper, spoiler? Something to make the car more agressive. But the main problem is handling.. the car is fast stock but handling sucks.. I am also going to need brakes and and my timing belt and water pump done soon.. anything you reccomend to do when I do that?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Check out the black market section on this site...lots of used parts.

Handling: Get a thicker rear sway bar...Eibach, Progress, Comptech. Also lowering with a stiffer setup will improve handling.

Appearance: RonJon makes a pretty nice body kit, there's Versus kit too. Maybe hard to find these days. There are a few other kits but they're ugmo. Check out the M5 lip spoiler.

JoeyBello

iTrader: (1)

I seen like 3 body kits on ebay but all were ugly.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

There are very few bolt on body mods for our car. It was only around for 3 model years, and not many were sold. Sarona makes (or made) a roof spoiler.

Any other parts you are looking just create another thread, this one is for suspension setups.

JoeyBello

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking about buying the full Eibach Kit if I keep my car. Does anyone have this, its alittle over 700$ The pro-kit springs, dampers, and sway bars.

JoeyBello

iTrader: (1)

The Eibach front bar is 27mm so the stock has to be smaller no?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Stock is 27mm, but I believe the front is hollow whereas the Eibach is not. I wouldnt reccomend doing the front sway. Putting a thicker/stronger sway bar up front will introduce understeer. Im not sure how you prefer your car to handle, but I like the back to rotate similar to a RWD car. Uprade the rear sway to a Progress bar and you'll be happy.

JoeyBello

iTrader: (1)

Where can I buy that? How much is it? If I do that what about the Eibach springs and struts with that?

JoeyBello

iTrader: (1)

BTW on my 1995 Neon- the only car i really spent alot of money on suspension wise-- I had jamex springs and struts, Eibach sway bars with Energy Suspension bushings and a front tower brace and that car handled awesome.. the stock setup was a front bar with no rear bar.. since it was not the sport.

JoeyBello

iTrader: (1)

One more question. Are the Type-S sway bars bigger than the regular CL? The springs are different too right? Isn't the whole suspension (sport) so if i upgrade is it worth selling my old parts to a CL owner? I mean for them? Also what parts in general are inter-changable with the TL and Accord? I saw a few posts on here where someone was using accord parts on their CL etc. Thanks

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Most suspension parts are the same between the TL/CL/Accord. The Type-S springs/struts had higher dampening rates so they werent as soft as the CL-P. The CL-P used smaller sway bars too.

Rear sway bars from the TL/Accord/TSX fit. HeelToe, one of our vendors, sells the Progress bar. Dont forget to pick up some new end links. Id suggest Moog as they are inexpensive and much better quality compared to the stockers.

Im sure there were some members running the Eibach springs/struts. I havent heard anything bad about them. I would however suggest coilovers instead of conventional springs/struts. I love my K-Sports. They are more expensive then a spring/strut combo, but they are worth it. I think Lippstuh is selling some F2 coilovers in the BM.

03cls6spd

I'm partial to everything in moderation so I love my Eibach springs with KYB struts. The ride is great, not uncomfortable but still performs and handles great. I put more money into my tires than my suspension getting toyo proxes and I can hang with most people in the turns

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Tires make or break the suspension

TEK247

You may want to call these guys I know they have a rear bar that fits your car even though it is for the TL...part#62.0110. Give them a shot @ 800-905-6687. Remember if you do change your rear or front sway bars get new end-links as well.

I have one and it has improved my ride plus it's adjustable!

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

this might seem like a stupid question but the ingalls front control arms would replace my spc camber kit right? If so ill just sell my spc and get the ingalls arms.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

hmm i would be surprised if these rub, ppl are running wider ones and they claim no rubbing.

mksliao

Hi everyone
Am new here got the 03 cl-p about a month ago, can anyone tell me what would happen i was to put S2000 17" on my car, the tires are

215/45/17 front

245/40/17 rear

I really like aftermarket rims but prefer to stick to stock alloys cos they don't get bent that easy and a bit less ouch when you hit the curb.

Thanks

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

almost 7 month old thread that u just revived.. might wanna try posting that question in a thread on the tires/wheels and suspension side

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I wouldnt recommend trying that. The s2000 is staggered and the rear wheels are wider and come with 245 tires. Since the CL is FWD I would get a set that isnt staggered myself. I also would go with 18 inch 17's look too smalll on the CL. I would suggest some 18 inch TL wheels.

xtremecro

what can i go with =+40 0ffset rims

phovasia

This thread is awesome! My 2001 CL-S already sticks to the ground like it has fly paper on the wheels. I can't imagine how wicked it would be with some of the upgrades you guys (and gals) have been putting underneath.

pierrecls

I have a ksport suspension also but feel to much bounce from the spring in the back. I think I might need to change the spring.

mksliao

My upper right adjustable ball joint is gone, i'm gonna relpace both sides with the whole control arm kit with the b joints, any thoughts guys, and how often do you guys have to replace your ball joints?

kdawg8526

iTrader: (3)

mine just went out too which kind of adjustable balljoint did u have

mksliao

Ingalls

sjams27

When I got my car 2 years ago I installed the Eibach Pro-Kit suspension. Lowered the car about 1.2" with very minimal space between the tire and wheel well. Looks great, handles even better.

njlakeshoreg

bump...very informative! helped me on coilover decision

DJF

Couple questions for all the people who've already done this:
If dropping only moderately, say 2", will this require camber kits or will the stock adjustments handle it?

If I install coilovers with pillowball adjustments, will this elminiate the need to buy camber kits?

What about the adjustable ball-joints...will this be enough to help adjust camber without a camber kit?

At what point (how low) before I need to introduce the Ingall lower arms?

By the way, I starting from stock, so I still have the 50 series balloon tires. I may go 45 series at some point. Thanks.

Fort Worth CL-6

How do yall think cutting the original springs down a little bit and making or buying tophats, would work to cheaply lower, and not loose smooth ride??

coastal rider

First, this is admittedly an old post, but a valuable one so I'll continue my input to this thread.

After several Tein iterations, I finally found a Tein SS coilover setup that works well for a 2nd generation CL (TL) that is lowered to the standard -1.6 inch ride height adjustment. Many have complained that Tein springs are too soft for our cars, and from experience I now say that is an absolutely correct assessment. When I ordered the Tein SS setup, I found that the 2nd generation CL used the same setup destined for an Accord (both 4 and 6 cylinder engine models). The Accord has an overall lighter weight and lighter front to rear relative weight distribution so something had to change.

The solution is simple but took several iterations to get it right: upgrade the front springs to a 10kg/mm, soften the front shock's compression valving and stiffen the front shock's compression valving to compensate for the stiffer rate. A very good setup appropriate for the car at a nominal ride height reduction. You will have to pay for another set of springs to get this (Tein does notl not credit you the standard 7kg/mm springs) and have them adjust the shock valving for a nominal fee. Note that this setup will not allow you to lower the car more than 1.6 inch due to the more limited travel incurred with a larger diameter spring coil times the number of coil winds.

With this setup, you get a firm but compliant ride over all but very rough road surfaces. The car front end will hug road contours, track well and you gain firm up front stability including not having the front end dive on hard braking. At first it was like a dream, but I had to wait for several months of driving to allow the spring to work some to provide a reliable report. After ~6 months of driving, the initial spring softness has gone away typical for a settled spring but still working well.

Thanks to Andres at Tein and the tech staff for their support and Marcus at Hell-Toe for getting us connected.

Initially I tried a Tein H-Tech with Koni yellows setup (soft a spring with an overly grabbing shock), the standard Tein SS coilover (still too soft a spring causing front end bounciness which tightening the shock does not control), then upgrading the spring to 9 kg/mm with standard shock valving (better but sill bouncy).

Brandon Allen

the TEIn Super street coils have a adjustable damper. If you set the dampening to be stiff shouldn't that get rid of the bounciness?

Also I was going to order my TEIN coils from Xlr8 since they have the best price I could find. Does anyone know if they would they be able to adjust the spirng rate?

DJF

Costal Rider, thanks for this info. Good to know. I never did any suspension work to my CL but maybe soon.