CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

So i bought these frigging upper control arms with +1-+4 of adjustment.

since I am lowering the car a couple inches I thought I'd need these.

But it seems I should have gotten the other ones that have -2 - +1.75 cause after doing some reading I found the front will only go out of spec by 1 degree or so..

However after looking at how the adjustment is done on the control arm, all you do is move a plate closer or further away from the center of the wishbone.



SO... if it turns out I don't lower my car enough to need the +1-+4 of adjustment. I can just shave off some of the plate which will allow me to move the ball joint further in to the center of the wishbone and VOILA. right?

hopefully someone can verify my findings which will give me so good piece of mind.

I would like to not have to cut my uninstalled camber kit but it just may have to be done.

Thank god I found out I can do it this way tho, cause I cannot return them since it was a special order.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

iirc arm itself is the exact same, even the ball joint itself is also, only difference is the plate that the ball joint is affixed too (which the screws also thread into (the gold colored one); and even then the threaded holes are just further from the ball joint centerline to compensate for the different range (but same amount of adjustment though)


and you should be able to order just the plates/balljoints by them selves; you might have to go directly to ingall's though

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

actually all i need to do is cut off about 5 mm of the plate to get it to go to zero.. there are 3 sets of holes and only 4 screws so I can cut off just a little bit..

thanks for the reply.. so this method will suffice

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i also got them too, and the +1 to +4 also
and i know how they mount


but first, what sort of camber are you looking to run, cause i have like 1.33 degrees on each side, with my arms



edit: f@ck why am i questioning myself as to what arms i have , i could tell you as soon as i look at them though

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

i want everything to be zero... the way it is stock. so I will likely only need 0 - +1 degrees from the control arms.

either way tho i'm good to go.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yes the your current can be modified to work, might have to drill and tap a set of new holes though closer to the joint itself, but other then that, YES you are good to go

but personally i would run some camber, even if it is only like 0.25 to 0.5 (main reason i got mine was for adjustability)

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

you mean run a bit of negative camber right?? not positive

positive means the top of the wheel is further out than the bottom of the wheel, which hurts handling.

negative camber is the opposite and helps out on turns but still i hate bad tire wear issues

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yes a little negetive camber, and you are probably not even going to notice like 0.25 worth of camber in the tire wear; it s more so that it has some built in (and even then, if you really want to get technical, with the stiffer lowering springs, the car is not going to roll as much, or the suspension travel; so the natural camber curve built into the suspension design, will now be not as effective, so you have to compensate for it some)


and personally the 245's that i had on my car, wore really even considering that i had like -0.8 worth of camber for the first half of there life, then the second half with like -1.33 of camber