Ingalls adjustable ball joint
#1
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Ingalls adjustable ball joint
I'm seeing two adjustable ball joints on their site. Part # 35590 and 35591. One says adjustable +- 1-1/2 degree. The other part says +1.5 to +3 degrees. Can someone explain the difference to me. I have about a 1 finger gap in the front and my ball joints are going. Thanks.
Link: http://www.ingallseng.com/mmy.php?ye...e=58&model=741
Link: http://www.ingallseng.com/mmy.php?ye...e=58&model=741
#2
LIST/RAMEN/WING MAHSTA 짱
iTrader: (16)
The difference is just as you stated. So, to figure out which one you need, you have to take into consideration the amount of your drop. Also something to consider, if you plan on it, is how much camber you wish to run daily.
When I bought mine, I wanted to run OEM specs all the way around while I was lowered, to maximize treadlife.
When I bought mine, I wanted to run OEM specs all the way around while I was lowered, to maximize treadlife.
#3
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I had an alignment done after my coilover install and the fronts were still within spec.
i'd like to run a tiny bit of negative camber, if not OEM specs. Which one will do? Someone local is selling the 35591 +1.5 to +3 degrees.
i'd like to run a tiny bit of negative camber, if not OEM specs. Which one will do? Someone local is selling the 35591 +1.5 to +3 degrees.
#4
Quarantuning
iTrader: (4)
I asked the same question on here months ago. Nobody replied?
Seems like people here are only concerned with the rear camber kit. But what happens with a 1 finger gap drop on these cars is you end up stressing the ball-joint and eventually breaking it.
So naturally those of us in this situation look to upgrade to an aftermarket part to resolve the situation permanently. I intend to go with the whole upper arm replacement. I've read that it might tap the metal up top above the strut (when you hit a big bump) and you need to bang it out a little. Or cut a hole if your super slammed.
Let us know how it goes which ever one you choose.
Never went to Ingalls main site before, damn they've got more suspension parts than I thought. Thanks for the link!
Seems like people here are only concerned with the rear camber kit. But what happens with a 1 finger gap drop on these cars is you end up stressing the ball-joint and eventually breaking it.
So naturally those of us in this situation look to upgrade to an aftermarket part to resolve the situation permanently. I intend to go with the whole upper arm replacement. I've read that it might tap the metal up top above the strut (when you hit a big bump) and you need to bang it out a little. Or cut a hole if your super slammed.
Let us know how it goes which ever one you choose.
Never went to Ingalls main site before, damn they've got more suspension parts than I thought. Thanks for the link!
#6
Quarantuning
iTrader: (4)
The + and - in the part descriptions refer to camber. So I'm going to say with the 35591 you can't run negative camber. The range of adjustment that kit gives you is all in the positive range. +1.5 to +3
When you lower a car the suspension becomes more negative. So that kit would work to correct that and get back to stock specs. However lots of people are running super wide low offset wheels which need negative camber to fit.
I think that is why Ingalls offers 2 variations for both the ball joint and the upper arm kits.
When you lower a car the suspension becomes more negative. So that kit would work to correct that and get back to stock specs. However lots of people are running super wide low offset wheels which need negative camber to fit.
I think that is why Ingalls offers 2 variations for both the ball joint and the upper arm kits.
#7
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
ya i'm guessing i'm close to -1 camber in the front now. So i guess i need part # 35590. The other part would bring me too far into the positive camber. Minimum for that kit is +1.5 and i think i only want about +0.8 to bring my camber back towards 0.
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#8
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
so i ended up emailing Ingalls for a more specific answer. Very quick email response. They recommended the 35590 part # for my case - the one that adjusts +- 1 to 0.5 degrees. Like i said, i'm probably around -0.9 camber in the front and want it closer to 0 degrees. hope this helps anyone else in the same situation.
#9
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
35591 is for vehicles that are lowered more aggressively. If you have -1.5 to -3 degrees of camber you want this ball joint to offset it. If you have less than -1.5 degrees of camber you want 35590.
We have these in stock if needed. Sold per side.
http://store.excelerateperformance.com
We have these in stock if needed. Sold per side.
http://store.excelerateperformance.com
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