03 CL wheel hub assembly.
 

I need to replace my wheel hub assembly and bearing. Is removing the tie rod and lower ball joint nessisary or does that make it easier to remove? Can i just use a axle puller or is it connected elsewhere besides the axle nut?

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If I remember correctly, you have to remove the knuckle to get it in a press to extract the hub and then the wheel bearing. To get the knuckle off, the axle nut needs to be removed, separate the tie rod end and then the upper and lower ball joints. Then comes the ordeal of separating the hub from the knuckle via a press. Remove the 'snap ring' and splash guard from the knuckle. Press the wheel bearing out of the knuckle. :shrug:

Ok thx! That's what I thought. To clarify you completely remove the knuckle by disconecting both ball joints, tie rod, axle nut, ect ect. Press out hub and bearing. Press in new bearing into new hub, since I can't find a hub already pressed with bearing.

Here is what I'm not sure about. Does the new hub have to be pressed back in as well? I plan on using a local mechanic for the pressing.

Thx for the reply.

Also I take it a front end alignment is needed afterm

The only thing that is adjustable in the alignment of our cars is the caster (radius rod) and toe (tie rod). if you don't adjust anything on these items you should be alright.

The right tool will make the job a lot easier and enjoyable: most auto parts stores have the press kit for the bearings as well as the oem ball joint separator that can be used to take apart all the parts you've listed.

Not sure of the mileage on your car, but it may be worthwhile to check upper, lower and tierod ball joints for condition. If you can move them easily by hand it's a good time to replace. Each is about $30 and well worth it since you've done all that work to take the knuckle off. :)

It has just over 140k.I did a full brake job yesterday and I still have a slight vibration in the steering at 50 mph and up. Both control arms, and ball joints have been replaced recently.. Maybe my struts as well

Oh i haven't taken anything off yet. I'm trying to learn how it is done to see if I can do it myself to save $

Check out the two links below. Bearing into hub, then snap rig to secure bearing. The hub into bearing.

Correct, you won't find a '...hub already pressed with bearing.'
Knuckle:
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...t/knuckle-scat

Bearing/Snap ring/hub:
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...ont-brake-scat

:yes: , it has to be pressed into the new wheel bearing. Once you get the knuckle off the car, visually, you or your local mechanic will see how it is configured to facilitate a 'pressing' plan. It's a big job.:)

Alignment is your call. I had one done on my 6-speed when I did this job years ago, though. :shrug:

My hub and bearing kit came in. I take it once the bearing is pressed onto the hub, that combo then needs to be pressed back onto the knuckle. I plan on using a mechanic for this.

The pressing the hub onto the knuckle creates a problem. I'm working at my uncle's house with his help. I was planning on picking up my pressed parts and then to his house to install them. Change of plans since my car will have to be disassembled before the shop
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...63aff32ee9.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...54475245c1.jpg
Does the Bearing need to be pressed down like this with locking ring between?

The bearing is held in place by a lock ring. The lock ring is inaccessible with the hub pressed into the bearing (this is why you remove the hub first, and then the bearing from the knuckle). Assembly is reverse of removal: press bearing into knuckle, place lock ring, press hub into bearing (properly supporting the race to prevent damage).

Thx. That makes since. I'll have to come up with a game plan with getting parts to the shop and back.