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Looks Good! Make sure you give it a thorough clean down. Hopefully it won't have an oil leak, but a clean engine makes finding leaks easier.
Also, there's a coolant temperature sensor that's different between the Auto and the Manual engines. I'm not sure if you swapped that yet, but it's near the cam gears I think.
if you're talking about that sensor that's in the picture shown below, yes I swapped the one from the j32a2
Question, this harness that I am pointing to doesn't exist on the j32a2 engine, do I just let it hang here? Not sure exactly what it does but it looks like it goes somewhere behind the cam gear but it didn't have anything to do with the cam gear sensors as I remembered when I swapped them.
Also, there's a coolant temperature sensor that's different between the Auto and the Manual engines. I'm not sure if you swapped that yet, but it's near the cam gears I think.
The only 'Thermo' sensor I could find '...near the cam gears...' is shown as #10; 37773-P8E-A01 on the link below; however, it is a shared part # between the CL-S6 manual J32 and the MDX auto J35.
Question, this harness that I am pointing to doesn't exist on the j32a2 engine, do I just let it hang here? Not sure exactly what it does but it looks like it goes somewhere behind the cam gear but it didn't have anything to do with the cam gear sensors as I remembered when I swapped them.
Found it! That harness that I'm holding in the previous pic screws in the head where that freeze plug is at on the j32a2. Now I remember, that's why I left that harness on the j35 because what's the difference from keeping that there or putting a freeze plug there. So the pic below is from the j32a2
if you're talking about that sensor that's in the picture shown below, yes I swapped the one from the j32a2
No, that's the knock sensor
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
Question, this harness that I am pointing to doesn't exist on the j32a2 engine, do I just let it hang here? Not sure exactly what it does but it looks like it goes somewhere behind the cam gear but it didn't have anything to do with the cam gear sensors as I remembered when I swapped them.
That's the coolant temp sensor I was talking about. It doesn't exist on the CL-S6 engine. There's a block off plate for it on your manual engine.
The only 'Thermo' sensor I could find '...near the cam gears...' is shown as #10; 37773-P8E-A01 on the link below; however, it is a shared part # between the CL-S6 manual J32 and the MDX auto J35.
The part you refer as #10 is the sensor of the entire part #8. The #8 part doesn't exist on the CL-S6 engine, and Acura mistakenly left the #10 part as compatible. There's a block off plate (or what 2ndgentl calls the freeze plug) there instead.
Good, so just leaving the coolant temp sensor in the J35 (with that harness dangling) instead of just blocking it off is also fine. Which that is what I did. Would of looked cleaner if I just blocked it off using the block off plate from j32a2 but no big deal, I can hide that little harness
The part you refer as #10 is the sensor of the entire part #8. The #8 part doesn't exist on the CL-S6 engine, and Acura mistakenly left the #10 part as compatible. There's a block off plate (or what 2ndgentl calls the freeze plug) there instead.
Holy cow! I got it now, jeez. That is why the #8, under the specific designator on oemacuraparts, for the CL-S6 is not an active number. Than when the same parts diagram is pulled up for the auto CL-S, #8 is active to represent the part.
I searched 'high and low' in the PDF Helms for #8; 'Thermo Switch' and could not find it anywhere. Talking about a wild goose chase, Acura. Would you know the proper name for it in the Helms by any chance?
I see the spacer - is it there to increase the speed of the air (increasing the volume of the charge), and take more fuel with it? Or, is it something else?
I see the spacer - is it there to increase the speed of the air (increasing the volume of the charge), and take more fuel with it? Or, is it something else?
Anyway, it looks like it's coming along, nicely!
Thanks Beak14! I believe the spacer adds a little more bottom end but you lose some top end. The P2R spacer which I believe is about 3/4" thick might perform different than the last spacer I had on which was from a Ridgeline at about 1 3/4" thick. I have a lot of parts I can play around with, but putting it on the dyno will only tell me exactly how they perform.
Found it! That harness that I'm holding in the previous pic screws in the head where that freeze plug is at on the j32a2. Now I remember, that's why I left that harness on the j35 because what's the difference from keeping that there or putting a freeze plug there. So the pic below is from the j32a2
O.K; 2ndgentl, for posterity's sake I'm going to document this here because until Karanx7 mentioned it, I can't recall ever having seen it specifically discussed on any of the other recent 'swap' threads, so here goes.
The 'sensor' name that would normally occupy that 'block-off plate' is called 'Radiator Fan Switch B' per the Helms. As Karanx7 stated it is on the auto '02 MDX J35 and auto '03 CL-S' J32 and excluded on the CL-S 6-speed J32 as your excellent picture depicts above.
If one takes the J32 CL-S6 heads, in mass, and transfer's them to the J35, then the issue of that 'extra' harness would not be noticed, because obviously the sensor is not on the CL-S6 front head.
If one only takes the CL-S6 cams and supporting nomenclature and transfers them TO the J35 heads then the presence of that 'extra' harness would present itself on the J35, (possibly turning into a WTF moment) as it did during your Type-S J32 cam swap process. I only say that (a WTF moment) because no one putting in all that work for a 'swap' wants to have some unknown extra harness flopping around potentially confusing things, at least I would not.
P.S.
I stumbled upon the Mugen T-stat/fan switch part #'s while researching the above:
THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000
Acura screwed up on that "Radiator Fan Switch B" diagram for the 03-CLS6 engine. It just shows the fan switch, but doesn't provide a part number for the "freeze plug." Not a big deal, but it's a bit strange since Acura's diagrams have usually been flawless.
I guess it's considered part of the cylinder head.
Acura screwed up on that "Radiator Fan Switch B" diagram for the 03-CLS6 engine. It just shows the fan switch, but doesn't provide a part number for the "freeze plug." Not a big deal, but it's a bit strange since Acura's diagrams have usually been flawless.
I guess it's considered part of the cylinder head.
lol, exactly, strange indeed.
I referred to my hard copy of the helms, because I didn't want to look at a computer screen all day, and thought 'the dam thing has to be here somewhere because it is on the Auto CL'.
Started paging through and the first place it shows up is in the Engine Cooling; subsection Fan Controls; Radiator Fan Switch Replacement; pg 10-32. Go figure.
Got her in with the tranny attached. Honesty, went in easier than I thought. Still have to attach the wiring harness on all the sensors, ect. Also I need to siphon out all the fuel from the tank and lines. Been 9 months since last used.
Are you installing the s/c right away? If not I'm wondering how you think the 3.5 compares to the 3.2 +s/c.
Hahahahaha! That's my friend giving me a hand. More like complaining about everything that hurts on him so that he wouldn't do anything but just stand there and advise me what to do, even though he's never turned a wrench in his life....but still knows more about car engines than everyone. We all have that friend....
As far as the S\C, I am curious to see how this j35a3 compares to my j32a2 all motor first, and I am planning on keeping it N\A for the time being until I feel confident enough to move forward with the S\C. Definitely putting the S/C back on again sooner than later, but just want to make sure everything is perfect this time.
So I'm really close to firing up this engine. Question, what kind of spark plugs would you guys recommend I use on the J35A3? I'm getting really nervous on firing up this engine, I just hope it purrs like a kitten.
So I'm really close to firing up this engine. Question, what kind of spark plugs would you guys recommend I use on the J35A3? I'm getting really nervous on firing up this engine, I just hope it purrs like a kitten.
I just looked on rockauto.com for the '02 MDX J35 spark plugs, and there are alot (classified into four category levels, from $ - $$$) to choose from. I would stick with Denso or NGK and since you will be going NA for awhile, I would get what would work best for naturally aspirated. For Heaven Sake, don't get the Bosh's.:
Thanks Zeta, I also put the stock injectors from the j32a2 on the j35a3 assuming they are the same. I also just noticed I am missing the coolant hose that connects on the top of the radiator which is probably on that coolant housing that I am missing. Oh well, I'll have to get one today as well with those spark plugs. I'm going to stick with NGK
Thanks Zeta, I also put the stock injectors from the j32a2 on the j35a3 assuming they are the same. I also just noticed I am missing the coolant hose that connects on the top of the radiator which is probably on that coolant housing that I am missing. Oh well, I'll have to get one today as well with those spark plugs. I'm going to stick with NGK
'03 CL-S6 and '02MDX fuel injectors share the same part #06164-P8E-A00.
Hopefully you can find the spark plugs you need locally. You changed the oil and filter as well?
'03 CL-S6 and '02MDX fuel injectors share the same part #06164-P8E-A00.
Hopefully you can find the spark plugs you need locally. You changed the oil and filter as well?
Actually I haven't change the oil and filter just yet. There was maybe a quart in the oil pan when I purchased the engine, and it didn't look bad so I just added the rest just to fire up the engine and hear how it sounds. Once I fire it up and make sure everything is okay the first thing I'll do is change the oil and filter. Unless you think otherwise.
Did the paper work that came with the engine from the salvage yard give any indication as to how long the motor sat around?
If not, then it might be prudent to do a quick oil and filter change. I don't know what to tell you. Even some cheap new oil/filter from Walmart is better to play it safe. You've gotten this far and I can see that you are anxious to finally get your engine going and such, it's your call. I don't want to spend your money indiscriminately, he he.
Did the paper work that came with the engine from the salvage yard give any indication as to how long the motor sat around?
If not, then it might be prudent to do a quick oil and filter change. I don't know what to tell you. Even some cheap new oil/filter from Walmart is better to play it safe. You've gotten this far and I can see that you are anxious to finally get your engine going and such, it's your call. I don't want to spend your money indiscriminately, he he.
You are absolutely right Zeta! Besides, it takes 10 min to change the oil now that it's already on jack stands. I noticed a couple of oil drops where the oil drain plug is so I need to change that alluminum crush washer as well
I guess for the ignition coils I should use the ones off the J35A3? They do have a different part number than the J32A2 coils.
Not sure if it matters, as long as the connection points to the CL-S6 harness are the same as well as the length/width to accommodate the MDX plugs vs the J32 size plugs, you should be fine even though they have different part #'s.
I don't think I've ever read if the J32 ones have any advantage over other coil packs as far as performance goes; however, I've been wrong before, lol.
Ugh....ok, fired it up and won't idle. If I keep the throttle down a little bit it stays running and sounds fine, but once I take my foot off the pedal it sounds kinda like a Subaru as it tries to idle then dies. No check engine lights on (yet). Not sure what to think of just yet. I can't find a vacuum line diagram anywhere just to make sure I hooked them all up right. I tried siphoning the tank yesterday and honestly, the gas still looked and smelled good for sitting for 9 months, but I took as much as I could get out of there. I think there might have been a little less than a gallon still in the tank, but I just put in 3 gallons of fresh 93 octane. But I know there's still the last of the old fuel still in the lines, but I don't think it's the fuel. Sounded really good when I revved it a few times, but dies as soon as you let off the throttle. I can't imagine it having something to do with the j35a3 coils, but I can try swapping them out
Just throwing a couple things out there to check:
Could the thin metal upper intake manifold gasket be flipped? The little 'tab' that protrudes from the 'round' area toward the throttle body should be located toward the 'rear' or firewall side.
Take a look at the Map Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor connections on the throttle body. They both share a confusing 'round' type connector that could be switched. I believe the TPS harness connector is 'grey'.
I guess for the ignition coils I should use the ones off the J35A3? They do have a different part number than the J32A2 coils.
Originally Posted by zeta
I don't think I've ever read if the J32 ones have any advantage over other coil packs as far as performance goes; however, I've been wrong before, lol.
I would use the J32A2 coils. I've noticed that J35A3 parts that differ from J32A2 for no reason are generally because they are cheaper on the Honda than the Acura.
Originally Posted by zeta
Take a look at the Map Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor connections on the throttle body. They both share a confusing 'round' type connector that could be switched. I believe the TPS harness connector is 'grey'.
It sounds like the IACV is unplugged or clogged, so this is a good call. If the engine is running strong while giving it throttle, then your idle problem is limited to the IACV.
I've checked all connections at least a couple dozen times and everything is exactly where it should be. I'll check that metal gasket tomorrow morning just in case, but pretty sure it's fine. I still have that big red fuel pressure regulator hooked up, but I believe it's set around stock psi so I doubt it's that. I swapped out the coils to the j32a2 and it made no difference. The only way I got it to idle with some surging going on was to disconnect some vacuum lines from the IM. That is why I think and hope I just have some lines mixed up, but take a look at these new plugs already with only 5 min of run time. Also, when I swapped the j32a2 cams to the j35a3 I also swapped the j32a2 roller rockers as well which bolt right over the cams. Not sure if I had to.
Also, on the next pic does anyone know what hose connects to that big nipple with the red cap on it? I only capped it for the pic
2ndgentl, I just checked my car and the hose coming off the 'Air assist valve assembly,' red capped inlet/outlet, goes to one of the two 'nips' on the inflow elbow to the throttle body.
2ndgentl, I just checked my car and the hose coming off the 'Air assist valve assembly,' red capped inlet/outlet, goes to one of the two 'nips' on the inflow elbow to the throttle body.
I should of said one of the two ports on the air inflow elbow coming from the CT Ice box connecting to the throttle body. The other port would take a hose coming from the front valve cover for crankcase ventilation near the EGR.
10-28-2017, 04:12 PM
Would you know the proper name for it in the Helms by any chance?
