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There appears to be a 'faint' line that may be a crack that I noticed the other day. Check it out when time permits. Either way you would want to use the J32 water passage anyway to plug n play hook-up of the relevant pipes and such.
Nice call. It's probably oil, but better to check while the engine is out.
Or just use a J32A2 6 Speed engine's water housing. The auto J32A2 will have an extra water port from a water pipe that connects to the water housing (it goes to the Auto ATF warmer). The manual J32A2 will obviously fit your car perfectly. The J35A3 engine will have the heater hose connection located in a slightly different spot. You could use the 99TL heater hose which fits perfectly, or just use the J32A2 water passage.
Nice and congratulations! Looks like you are well on your way.
One thing though 2ndgentl. The last thing I want to be is a 'killjoy'; however, can you spray some brake clean, on the oily area of the block shown in the pic below, around that large flange bolt/nut (#20) or #24) that looks like it is running through the water passage (#8) on the link below:
There appears to be a 'faint' line that may be a crack that I noticed the other day. Check it out when time permits. Either way you would want to use the J32 water passage anyway to plug n play hook-up of the relevant pipes and such.
Damn good eyes ZETA!!! But thank god it's not a crack. Here's a pic of it cleaned up. I was laying in bed when I read this and I literally had to walk to my garage in my underwear at 2:30 am to check this before going to sleep. Lol
I'll be tinkering with it day by day, so it should be soon! Also, still thinking about putting the S\C back on and getting it professionally tuned, but I'll take my time with that to make sure it's right this time.
Damn good eyes ZETA!!! But thank god it's not a crack. Here's a pic of it cleaned up. I was laying in bed when I read this and I literally had to walk to my garage in my underwear at 2:30 am to check this before g
Good to hear, lol. Sorry, I didn't mean to 'psych' you out like that. I'm the same way, I would of had to check it out right away; otherwise, I would not have been able to sleep.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
I'll be tinkering with it day by day, so it should be soon! Also, still thinking about putting the S\C back on and getting it professionally tuned, but I'll take my time with that to make sure it's right this time.
Also good to hear!
The picture below shows Karanx7's suite M62 set-up on a tuned J35A3 swap into his '02TL-P. I believe he is the only one on the forums to do this.
Originally Posted by Karanx7
Also, if you want to 'upgrade' to an aluminium radiator, some time down the line for better cooling, there are now options readily available.
Nice call. It's probably oil, but better to check while the engine is out.
Or just use a J32A2 6 Speed engine's water housing. The auto J32A2 will have an extra water port from a water pipe that connects to the water housing (it goes to the Auto ATF warmer). The manual J32A2 will obviously fit your car perfectly. The J35A3 engine will have the heater hose connection located in a slightly different spot. You could use the 99TL heater hose which fits perfectly, or just use the J32A2 water passage.
Karanx7 when you performed your J35 swap on the TL-P, did you 'source' J32 Type-S heads/cams or did you just use the J35 heads?
When I researched your threads I could not find any specific mention of what you ended up with. I only ask because 2ndgentl has two 6-speed J32 Type-S donor engines he could harvest 'heads/cams' from if he decides to utilize these for his J35 swap. What are your impressions?
Also, was wondering if you remedied your 'jumping/slipping' S/C'er belt issue and how you did it?
I'll be tinkering with it day by day, so it should be soon! Also, still thinking about putting the S\C back on and getting it professionally tuned, but I'll take my time with that to make sure it's right this time.
That's possibly the best answer I could have hoped for..
Karanx7 when you performed your J35 swap on the TL-P, did you 'source' J32 Type-S heads/cams or did you just use the J35 heads?
When I researched your threads I could not find any specific mention of what you ended up with. I only ask because 2ndgentl has two 6-speed J32 Type-S donor engines he could harvest 'heads/cams' from if he decides to utilize these for his J35 swap. What are your impressions?
Also, was wondering if you remedied your 'jumping/slipping' S/C'er belt issue and how you did it?
I went Stock -> True manual J32A2 and 6 Speed swap -> AEM EMS 2 -> J35A3
I bought a wrecked 03 CL-S6 for the true manual swap, so I had a manual J32A2 laying around. I'm using those J32A2 cams in my J35A3. I didn't think it was worth swapping the heads, because I didn't want to deal with the head gasket. The manual J32A2 heads have better valve springs, 1mm larger valves(I think), and better Vtec LMAs. I still hit 7.2k rpm without problems though, so I don't regret not swapping the heads (the cams swap is a must though).
I'm now using a High Boost Pulley on the alternator pulley, and a Max Boost Pulley on the shaft pulley. This allowed me to fit on a smaller 4040245 belt instead of the 4040252 belt, and that reduced the slip. I'll still get slip at 6psi, but I probably shouldn't go over that without installing the intercooler so I'm good with that for now. Also, that might just be the limit a 4 rib belt can hold. I'll eventually check if a custom cnc place can make me 6 rib pulleys (worried it'll be stupid expensive).
Originally Posted by teh CL
^ & how much power is the S/C'd J35A3 making?
Idk, but I've been thinking about it. My estimate for crank hp is 260hp 3.2L + 20hp 0.3L + 20hp headers + 10hp exhaust + 5hp CAI + 5hp lightweight pulleys and flywheel = 320hp. With 6psi of boost, it should make North of 430hp at the crank. So at the minimum, it should be 360hp at the wheels. Maybe someone more experienced with boost and HP figures can correct my assumptions.
I went Stock -> True manual J32A2 and 6 Speed swap -> AEM EMS 2 -> J35A3
I bought a wrecked 03 CL-S6 for the true manual swap, so I had a manual J32A2 laying around. I'm using those J32A2 cams in my J35A3. I didn't think it was worth swapping the heads, because I didn't want to deal with the head gasket. The manual J32A2 heads have better valve springs, 1mm larger valves(I think), and better Vtec LMAs. I still hit 7.2k rpm without problems though, so I don't regret not swapping the heads (the cams swap is a must though).
Nice! Thanks for the response, there's alot of useful info there. When you swapped over the J32 cams to the J35 heads, did you run into any 'particulars' in regards to any components, during the process, that would need to be noted for someone who would want to do the same thing? Any short cuts, etc. if you had to do it again?
The only reason I ask is because the only other two guys, hitek9 and adam kovach (whom you don't see much on here), that have done a J35 swap just pulled J32 heads off their donor 'lumps' and put them on their J35's, presumably after having them checked for warpage. Therefore, there is not alot of detail and such on the actual 'cam swap' aspect. Of course, I don't want to leave out the pioneer teh CL; however, IIRC, he did not do either a J32 head or cam swap, just a straight J35 in to his car..., correct me if I'm incorrect.
Originally Posted by Karanx7
I'm now using a High Boost Pulley on the alternator pulley, and a Max Boost Pulley on the shaft pulley. This allowed me to fit on a smaller 4040245 belt instead of the 4040252 belt, and that reduced the slip. I'll still get slip at 6psi, but I probably shouldn't go over that without installing the intercooler so I'm good with that for now. Also, that might just be the limit a 4 rib belt can hold. I'll eventually check if a custom cnc place can make me 6 rib pulleys (worried it'll be stupid expensive).
That's great that it turned out just to be a 'slipping' problem compared to a 'mis-alignement' issue. I bet your car must feel like a real 'beast' during a suite, long 6psi 3rd gear pull. Maybe a video is in order when time permits, hehe.
Mine was just a straight swap, didn't want to deal with with opening motors up at all. High end definitely suffered with the bone stock J35A3 but the low end/midrange more than made up for it. Too much fun..
Quite curious to see how the J35 would of responded with no IM spacer & Type S cams.. Sounds like a pretty intriguing setup for my hibernating 1G CL..
When you swapped over the J32 cams to the J35 heads, did you run into any 'particulars' in regards to any components, during the process, that would need to be noted for someone who would want to do the same thing? Any short cuts, etc. if you had to do it again?
It was REALLY easy with the engines out and next to each other. It took maybe 15 minutes per cam, and I was being paranoid about everything. You undo a few bolts that hold down the camshaft, slide them out, swap them, slide them back in, and do a valve adjustment. The hardest part of the cam swap was doing the valve adjustment.
I love reading everyone's input on here since these swaps are getting more rare with time and are impossible to find anything online. Here are a few more pics as I keep doing a little more day by day after work. Remember, since I turn wrenches all day on boats the last thing I want to do is turn wrenches when I get home. Lol So little by little every day...
So, I've swapped the cams, cam sensors, brackets, ect.. I believe the last step is rerouting the coolant hose but they both look identical except where I'm pointing at, instead of it going straight out like shown on the j32 it does a 90° on the J35. The metal coolant pipe that runs in between the heads are identical as well
So, I've swapped the cams, cam sensors, brackets, ect.. I believe the last step is rerouting the coolant hose but they both look identical except where I'm pointing at, instead of it going straight out like shown on the j32 it does a 90° on the J35.
The whole part that encompasses the outlet that you are pointing at is called the 'Water Passage'.
The part # for the J32 CL-S6 is '19410-PGE-A10', that's the one you want to use on the J35 because all the 'hose connections' should match those set-up on your 6-speed. In addition, the J32 'water passage' should, logically, also bolt straight-up to your new J35.
The Part # for the 2002 J35 'water passage' is '19410-P8C-A01'. The reason the J35 part # is different is probably because of the location of the that outlet/inlet connection that you are pointing to, amongst other changes as well.
Someone correct me on this if it is in error.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
The metal coolant pipe that runs in between the heads are identical as well
Both of these share the same part number on the 2002 MDX J35 and the 2003 CL-S6 J32, '19505-P8F-A00', so you should be good to go. Reference the link below at the bottom, it notes that the 'connecting pipe' fits both models and engines.
^
If you don't want to risk transferring the J32 'water passage' and use, in its stead, the J35 water passage, you can use the "Fix" that teh CL used; however, the picture is no longer available.
Maybe he can repost it when he has time or 'chime in' with some detail on the fix he implemented, see below:
Originally Posted by teh CL
Learned some things along the way as well.The J35 water pipe isn't in the same spot as the J32..
Fix: 01'-02' MDX heater hose w/ connector from the plumbing isle.. ..it works & yes both sides have hose clamps..
Thanks Zeta, I swapped the "water passages" from the j35 to the j32. Bolted right up perfectly and the surfaces looked exactly the same. I noticed the EGR valve look slightly different on the j35, it looks just a little bigger but I am using the j32 EGR anyways. The thing that pisses me off is that I cannot find the "water passages" from my old motor since I took it off to take the heads off and look at the damage when I blew the engine. I always neatly place Parts on my shelves but I cannot find that part with the EGR on it, so I had to steal that from the other engine that I got that was a little low in compression. The reason why I've been looking for it is because I have a 140° Mugen thermostat in that and a 90° temperature fan switch. I guess I have to just purchase another Mugen thermostat and fan switch. I am just about done swapping Parts over so the next thing I need to do is time the engine and do a valve adjustment. I know I don't really have to do a valve adjustment but why not since the motor is out and the valve covers are off.
Thanks Zeta, I swapped the "water passages" from the j35 to the j32. Bolted right up perfectly and the surfaces looked exactly the same. I noticed the EGR valve look slightly different on the j35, it looks just a little bigger but I am using the j32 EGR anyways. The thing that pisses me off is that I cannot find the "water passages" from my old motor since I took it off to take the heads off and look at the damage when I blew the engine. I always neatly place Parts on my shelves but I cannot find that part with the EGR on it, so I had to steal that from the other engine that I got that was a little low in compression. The reason why I've been looking for it is because I have a 140° Mugen thermostat in that and a 90° temperature fan switch. I guess I have to just purchase another Mugen thermostat and fan switch.
Yeah, I saw that on your profile page, at one time or another, I was wondering if you were going to take advantage of it. Later on down the line if you 'upgrade' to an aluminium radiator, those will compliment it well in its improved cooling functionality. Bummer that you can't find them just so you won't have to re-visit it again when the engine is in the car.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
I am just about done swapping Parts over so the next thing...
Just a quick re-cap of the checklist
You transferred the 'pulley side' 6-speed crank sensor and bracket from the blown J32?
You took all of the best (meaning low miles) timing 'stuff' from the J32's?
You took the cam pulleys/camshafts/cam sensors/backing plates and the water passage stuff from the J32 (as mentioned above)?
I can't think of any thing else at the moment. I'll look back just to make sure.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
I need to do is time the engine and do a valve adjustment. I know I don't really have to do a valve adjustment but why not since the motor is out and the valve covers are off.
Might as well ' cross all your t's and dot your i's, as they say. We want to see/hear that bad ass J35 fire up with no issues, right?
BTW, I noticed that you had installed on the J35 front head the S/C'er blower bracket? Are you installing the S/C'er sooner rather than later or is that there, for the time being, for your 'visual motivation', hehe?
Just a quick re-cap of the checklist
You transferred the 'pulley side' 6-speed crank sensor and bracket from the blown J32?
You took all of the best (meaning low miles) timing 'stuff' from the J32's?
About that Zeta, I noticed that when I put the j32a2 crank sensor on the j35a3 it was only held on by one bolt (on bottom of sensor) and a dowel pin (on top) shown in the first picture, which is perfectly fine but notice the second pic had a gold bracket that I assume keeps the timing belt from jiggling?? Might not be important but notice the second pic has a bolt hole for that bracket and the j35a3 does not have a top bolt hole for it, so I cannot use it. I don't think it will make any difference but let me know your thoughts on it
Even though the part is 'unique' to the J32 block and that there is no second bolt 'boss', at the top on the J35 block, you can still attach it by utilizing the bolt at the bottom on the 'crank' sensor.
By 'eyeball', get a good idea of the 'TB stopper plate position', as it would normally sit on the J32, and transition that onto the J35, securing it (8.7lbf-ft) with the bottom bolt of the crank sensor. Maybe use a little 'blue' Loctite on the crank sensor bolt as you torque it down to 8.7lbf-ft to give yourself a little more 'piece of mind' in light of the missing upper bolt 'boss'.
Maybe teh CL or Karanx7 can 'chime in' on what it was that they did when they were at this 'step'; however, I'm pretty sure you will need that 'plate' in position on the J35.
Also, I believe you will need to use the CL-S6 'TB drive pulley' #12 on the link below on the J35 because of the difference in the 'reluctor wheel' teeth spacing (closer together on the J32) compared to the farther spaced on the J35 reluctor, as shown in your pictures above. They have different part numbers as well, so utilize the J32 one if you have not already noticed. https://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-p...rankshaft-scat
Is there a 'stud' coming from the J32 block where the 'crank sensor' is attached, held by a flange nut?
OR
Is the J32 'crank sensor' secured with a bolt that screws into the J32 block, like on the J35. I can't tell because the 'TB guide plate' is blocking the view above?
I only ask because the parts diagram link below for the CL-S6 shows a 'flange-nut' (#42) securing the crank sensor vs. a 'flange bolt' as shown in the first J35 picture of your post above.
After looking at this again after a night's sleep, I realize that I've mistakenly been referring to the 'J32 block' when I should have been saying the 'J32 oil pump assembly'.
2ndgentl, if the risk of not having that second upper bolt boss to secure the J32 TB stopper plate is too worrisome for you, you could go the 'extra mile' and change out the J32 oil pump assembly and place it on the J35. It should be a straight bolt-up, similar to the J32 water passage; however, I believe, like everyone else who has done this J35 'swap' into their CL's (teh CL; Karanx7; hitek9; Adam Kovack) they just secure the TB stopper plate at the bottom with that J35 CRK sensor bolt.
Wow, you are right about the reluctor wheel having more teeth, I didn't even notice that. I'm going to have to change that as well. And that crank sensor is secured by a bolt on the J35 but by a stud on the J32. Not sure if it would make any difference from a stud to a bolt. I see what you are talking about swapping the oil pump assembly, looks kind of a pain to swap them just for an extra bolt hole, but I know it would be the correct thing to do. Just not sure if it would be good enough to just put Loctite on that one crank sensor Bolt to secure that guide. I'll take a better look at it today and see if there's anything else I can do to secure it without swapping the oil pump assembly's.
Let me ask you something, do you really think that timing belt stopper plate even does anything? I mean, I don't even think the timing belt ever touches that unless the belt gets very loose somehow. I'm just looking at my stopper plate and it still looks brand new without any belt markings on it. Of course I'm still going to install it but just wondering why the j35 doesn't have it and the j32 does.
Wow, you are right about the reluctor wheel having more teeth, I didn't even notice that. I'm going to have to change that as well.
Yeah, If you think back, It only makes sense to take the J32 TB drive pulley because, just like the sensor(s) for the cam(s), you want to take their corresponding pulleys so that everything is correctly 'talking' to each other electronically when the engine is running and such, so the J32 TB drive pulley is the on to go with.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
And that crank sensor is secured by a bolt on the J35 but by a stud on the J32. Not sure if it would make any difference from a stud to a bolt. I see what you are talking about swapping the oil pump assembly, looks kind of a pain to swap them just for an extra bolt hole, but I know it would be the correct thing to do. Just not sure if it would be good enough to just put Loctite on that one crank sensor Bolt to secure that guide. I'll take a better look at it today and see if there's anything else I can do to secure it without swapping the oil pump assembly's.
One other thing to consider, in regards to the use of the TB stopper plate, is that the thickness of that piece (maybe 1mm or so?) of metal, as it sits under the CRK sensor and next to the oil pump assembly, is it may serve to provide some kind of 'spacing' function so that the CRK sensor is located properly to interact with the TB drive pulley reluctor wheel, in the grand scheme of the engine running a such. That's just a guess on my part, so if there is a way to utilize it, it may save some heartache in the long run of chasing down 'goblins' if the engine does not start or run correctly.
Here's a picture of the spare j32 engine. The belt rides pretty close to the stopper plate, also notice the stopper plate is mounted on top of the crank sensor. So, the stopper plate has nothing to do with spacing the crank sensor because it's mounted on top and I'm not sure if that's stopper plate will do anything because there shouldn't be any play in the belt anyways, but I'm still going to install it on the j35a3 with one bolt just in case. Even with one Bolt the the stopper plate is up against the housing so it seems to be very secure. Also what you asked me earlier about that supercharger mounting plate, I just put it on there so I don't have to put it on later. I don't think it'll be in the way of anything for the time being
^
There you go, that picture helps explain alot, thanks!
So, with the addition of the J32 TB drive pulley, you should have all of the 'Timing' components in place now to make your J35 6-speed compatable. Great progress!
J32 Cams/camshaft pulley(s)/sensors/backing plate(s) (Valve adjustment when time permits)
J32 CRK sensor/TB drive pulley/TB stopper plate
J32 water passage
For the timing belt "stopper", I just used the gold bracket from the J32 on the J35 & only used the one bolt, no issues at all.
For the timing components, make sure everything comes off the J32 and onto the J35. Definitely don't want to deal with opening it up again when the motor is in the car.
One other thing about those backing plates behind the cam gears, only the one in the front of the motor has sensors on it which I swapped from the j32 engine, but on the other cam gear there are no sensors on it so I just left that one alone and it looks identical to the one on the j32. That should be fine, right? I'm pointing to the backing plate that I swapped, but the other one I left it alone.
^
yes. Only the front one with sensors. I just put 'plate(s)' in my responses above because I was not sure how far you went when transferring parts. Sorry for the confusion.
For the water passage I kept the stock one from the J35 and picked up a MDX heater hose plus an adapter to connect the MDX hose to the stock CL hose. Looking back, I should of just swapped over the J32 water passage, oh well..
For the water passage I kept the stock one from the J35 and picked up a MDX heater hose plus an adapter to connect the MDX hose to the stock CL hose. Looking back, I should of just swapped over the J32 water passage, oh well..
Ha, no confusion just making sure everything is done right. Thanks Zeta!
For the water passage I kept the stock one from the J35 and picked up a MDX heater hose plus an adapter to connect the MDX hose to the stock CL hose. Looking back, I should of just swapped over the J32 water passage, oh well..
Thanks teh CL, either way works, these are just little things as I'm buttoning this motor up. I'm trying not to get too excited until I actually hear this engine run. Lol
Looks Good! Make sure you give it a thorough clean down. Hopefully it won't have an oil leak, but a clean engine makes finding leaks easier.
Also, there's a coolant temperature sensor that's different between the Auto and the Manual engines. I'm not sure if you swapped that yet, but it's near the cam gears I think.
That engine looks like it has a BIG smile on its face, knowing that it will see new LIFE again in your car, lol.
In addition, when you step away for a 'breather' take another stroll around your garage there and maybe you will get lucky and find/stumble upon that water passage with the Mugen T-stat and fan switch. Don't forget to look under the hood or in the boot.
10-22-2017, 12:06 AM
Therefore, there is not alot of detail and such on the actual 'cam swap' aspect.
see below:
