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Finally finished with the Supercharger installation! Car runs amazing! One problem though, it's been raining here so all the roads are wet, so I don't know really how fast it is, just spins the tires very easily. I had to use the P2R spacer instead of the Ridgeline spacer and shave 1\4" off the TB adapter on the IM to get the S\C elbow to fit. All I know is just the sound of the S\C whining was worth all the work...
congrats!
hehe, I can almost hear it running through the screen with those pics, lol.
Were you able to get the walbro fuel pump installed?
Did the ESM install present any challenges?
I believe you are the first CL-S6 to have that XLR8 clutch kit up and running. IIRC, brian6speed is having one put in his autocross car, as well.
How does the pedal feel? Did you have any adjustment issues? Need some feedback, s'il vous plait.
congrats!
hehe, I can almost hear it running through the screen with those pics, lol.
Were you able to get the walbro fuel pump installed?
Did the ESM install present any challenges?
I believe you are the first CL-S6 to have that XLR8 clutch kit up and running. IIRC, brian6speed is having one put in his autocross car, as well.
How does the pedal feel? Did you have any adjustment issues? Need some feedback, s'il vous plait.
Honestly, I'm running the stock fuel pump and injectors until that guy comes over supposedly on Tuesday to drop them off. I know I don't have a clue what my air fuel ratio is at the moment, but when I took the car for a ride it didn't skip a beat. Idles great and very responsive with the throttle. Even though all the roads were wet I still romped on it a few times and redlined it to see if there would be any issues, but there wasn't. Should I be more careful until I put the rest of the parts on and get a tune? I just feel like a little kid who just got his first bike. As far as the clutch, it feels great! The pedal feels like stock, clutch grabs great, but I haven't shifted hard yet to see how hard it grabs. Also, the ECM was a piece of cake to install. I just can't get over how pretty the engine bay looks now with that S\C
Should I be more careful until I put the rest of the parts on and get a tune? I just feel like a little kid who just got his first bike.
It's your call; however, going forward until Tuesday, it might be prudent to wait, at least, until you get the high flow FP installed to test the high limits of the kit. That fuel pump works in conjunction with the raising rate fuel pressure regulator to get more fuel up and into the engine. Have you thought about any metering gauges to show PSI or fuel pressure? Or even air fuel ratio as you mentioned?
As for a tune or relying on the esm until you manage a tune, again it's your call. For example, you may drive a little harder then I where the esm, since 2005, has been adequate enough to meet my needs with the alt. HBP pulley i'm running with no issue. Your set-up with a 6-7 psi pulley may need tuning sooner rather than later to keep your engine safe with the level of demand you expect from the car during your unique driving habits.
In addition, do you plan on plumbing an intake tubing down to the driver fender well to capture some cooler air compared to drawing it from the engine bay from your current filter set-up? Maybe gnuts can chime in on that, I believe he redid his, at some point in the past, to get more of that sweet S/C'er whine sound in the cabin, hehe.
I am planning on getting all the right gauges for it so I can monitor air fuel pressure and boost. Having the Comptech FPR installed wouldn't there be more fuel pressure even with the stock fuel pump and injectors? I mean, I know they are probably border line maxing out and I need to install a bigger fuel pump and injectors but I'm trying to convince myself that even with this setup I have now it won't hurt the motor until I replace them next week. Isn't there someone on here that ran 200 shot nitrous for years before he blew his motor? Lol As far as the cold air intake tube I have the one that came with it which I think the previous owner had it made. I have a 76mm TB on the S\C and he had a CAI tube on his stock TB so its pretty skinny. I'll end up making something later for it.
I am planning on getting all the right gauges for it so I can monitor air fuel pressure and boost.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
Having the Comptech FPR installed wouldn't there be more fuel pressure even with the stock fuel pump and injectors? I mean, I know they are probably border line maxing out and I need to install a bigger fuel pump and injectors but I'm trying to convince myself that even with this setup I have now it won't hurt the motor until I replace them next week.
2ndgentl, IMHO, it would be better to 'err on the side of caution' and wait then to have your OEM fuel pump have a momentary 'burp' or 'shit the bed' entirely, as it struggles to supply fuel, during a 7psi 3rd gear pull. I only say that because I know you want to test the car to the max.
The logic I'm using stems from the fact that the engineering individuals at Comptech, back in the day these were designed for the CL, put a high flow Walbro fuel pump in the kit for a reason, even when only running the default 3.5 psi alt. pulley and stock injectors. Get what I'm saying?
Your are running around 6-7 psi, maybe more. Therefore, the OEM FP may feel adequate now, while using the larger 76mm TB; however, if you let that 'little kid who just got his first bike' feeling prematurely cloud your judgment at this point and something FAILS you may be posting a picture of 'your gay ass' boning a cherry picker as you yank out a grenaded J32A2,
2ndgentl, IMHO, it would be better to 'err on the side of caution' and wait then to have your OEM fuel pump have a momentary 'burp' or 'shit the bed' entirely, as it struggles to supply fuel, during a 7psi 3rd gear pull. I only say that because I know you want to test the car to the max.
The logic I'm using stems from the fact that the engineering individuals at Comptech, back in the day these were designed for the CL, put a high flow Walbro fuel pump in the kit for a reason, even when only running the default 3.5 psi alt. pulley and stock injectors. Get what I'm saying?
Your are running around 6-7 psi, maybe more. Therefore, the OEM FP may feel adequate now, while using the larger 76mm TB; however, if you let that 'little kid who just got his first bike' feeling prematurely cloud your judgment at this point and something FAILS you may be posting a picture of 'your gay ass' boning a cherry picker as you yank out a grenaded J32A2,
No one wants to see that, hehe.
Hahahahaha! You are absolutely right Zeta! I'll just wait to fully finish it before I hurt it by driving it aggressive.
^LOL, in the mean time, if possible and time permits, post a few close-up pics of the elbow where it meets the intake manifold and that larger 76mm TB where it connects to the blower inlet. Would like to see some detail as to the fit and how you got it, the elbow, to mate with the 09 TL IM.
Also, did you notice any misalignment or belt hopping at the pulley side for the belt connecting the SC'er to the alt pulley while it was running or during your test drives? Just curious.
So here are a few closer pics of the 76mm TB and the S\C elbow, also you can see the p2r spacer under the IM. If you look closey to the S\C elbow connecting to the S\C they aren't 100% aligned, but close. The blue tube wasn't my choice of color but that's all I had at the moment. Look at the battery under the S\C, its the tiny lithium battery that weighs 1 lb and probably the strongest battery I've had, but $300...
Great pics! And thanks, they show the detail of your hard work.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
When my DieHard 51R battery finally dies, I think I'll cough-up the cheddar for one of those. The 51r's are smaller than the OEM's; however, they are still a huge heavy lead brick compared to those lithium battery's, and a pain in the rear to get out without removing the TB. I believe brian6speed has a similar lithium battery on his autocross car for weight savings as well.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
That looks pretty dam good! Not much of an alignment issue at all.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
So here are a few closer pics of the 76mm TB and the S\C elbow, also you can see the p2r spacer under the IM. If you look closey to the S\C elbow connecting to the S\C they aren't 100% aligned, but close. The blue tube wasn't my choice of color but that's all I had at the moment. Look at the battery under the S\C, its the tiny lithium battery that weighs 1 lb and probably the strongest battery I've had, but $300...
So, you were able to implement the Ridgeline spacer after all, suite! That is quite the unique set-up there, congrats again and thanks again for the pics.
Ha, I just had to buy a 51R for my Honda Element. It's the stock battery it uses. And I know how heavy they are because I had to walk a mile to Walmart last week after my element died and carry it all the way back with no handle on the battery because they don't have a handle. Lol so I was able to take out a spark plug to see how lean or Rich it has been running. I've been driving it for 3 days now and I'm not going to lie I have got on it a few more times than I should have. I'm not sure with these plugs if it's running too lean, please give me feedback and let me know. Also, does anyone know where the Schrader valve is to check fuel pressure? I cannot find it anywhere and I've never seen a car that doesn't have a Schrader valve to hook up a pressure gauge to.
Oh, and yes, I do get a little belt slippage, not when I'm under Full Throttle but as soon as I let off. I think it has to do something with the blow off valve not closing fast enough, wondering if there are other blow-off valves that are nice and loud that will fit that supercharger.
Lol so I was able to take out a spark plug to see how lean or Rich it has been running. I've been driving it for 3 days now and I'm not going to lie I have got on it a few more times than I should have. I'm not sure with these plugs if it's running too lean, please give me feedback and let me know.
2ndgentl, living on the ragged edge, I don't blame ya!
I looked at an old set mine I had saved. They have around 70K on them, 1,2,3 in the rear were alot darker with a slight carbon crust on the circular base. 4,5,6 in front were darker with a black base, no crust. if that helps you or not. Hopefully someone else with more knowledge will chime in with an opinion.
Originally Posted by 2ndgentl
Also, does anyone know where the Schrader valve is to check fuel pressure? I cannot find it anywhere and I've never seen a car that doesn't have a Schrader valve to hook up a pressure gauge to.
The Helms manual states to relieve fuel pressure at the 'fuel pulsation damper' (FPD). That is the 'plastic hat' looking mechanism on the fuel rail. Place a rag to catch fuel, attach 7/8ths wrench or mm equivalent, loosen slowly one full turn. The manual also states to replace all washers when the FPD is loosened or removed.
To check fuel pressure, remove FPD and insert Fuel pressure gauge attachment 07VAJ-0040100 and Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004001.
If you google the attachment part# and look at 'Images' you'll get a visual diagram. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the FPR and do the FP checks with the hose pinched/unpinched.
Oh, and yes, I do get a little belt slippage, not when I'm under Full Throttle but as soon as I let off. I think it has to do something with the blow off valve not closing fast enough, wondering if there are other blow-off valves that are nice and loud that will fit that supercharger.
The specs below is what I use to adjust S/C'er drive belt tension.
Originally Posted by NSX-Tuner
As per Shad at CT, to check the sc belt tension, using the following technique:
Twist the sc belt between your fingers at mid point between pulleys:
1) More than a 90 degree twist is too loose
2) Less than a 45 degree twist is too tight
2ndgentl, living on the ragged edge, I don't blame ya!
I looked at an old set mine I had saved. They have around 70K on them, 1,2,3 in the rear were alot darker with a slight carbon crust on the circular base. 4,5,6 in front were darker with a black base, no crust. if that helps you or not. Hopefully someone else with more knowledge will chime in with an opinion.
The Helms manual states to relieve fuel pressure at the 'fuel pulsation damper' (FPD). That is the 'plastic hat' looking mechanism on the fuel rail. Place a rag to catch fuel, attach 7/8ths wrench or mm equivalent, loosen slowly one full turn. The manual also states to replace all washers when the FPD is loosened or removed.
To check fuel pressure, remove FPD and insert Fuel pressure gauge attachment 07VAJ-0040100 and Fuel pressure gauge 07406-004001.
If you google the attachment part# and look at 'Images' you'll get a visual diagram. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the FPR and do the FP checks with the hose pinched/unpinched.
Thanks Zeta! Comparing my plugs to yours I can say that my engine is definitely running lean. I mean, my plugs still look new brand new. Lol I just can't believe our motors don't have Schrader valves to check the fuel p.s.i. I'll just look up those parts you mentioned for that. Here's an odd question....is there any way I can get notified when someone responds back on this thread through Acurazine? I just never know if when someone responds until I keep checking
Unless you turned it off in the past, you should get email notifications sent to the email you used for your initial AZine profile set-up by default. So check the email address here on the forum. If you don't follow that email inbox anymore, that may explain why you are not getting notified. If you are still utilizing that particular email address for daily life, then you may need to turn the function ON again, if it is OFF for some reason.
Click on your username, that will take you to your profile page. Follow the path below and that should get you going again, if you are still using your initial email address, if not you may need to UPDATE your email to your current address to get the notifications:
Click your username>profile page>settings>usercontrol panel>edit options>messaging & notifications>default thread subscription mode>
click the down arrow in the box and pick one of the selections (instant email notifications) to populate the box and save.
That should get notifications sent to the designated email when someone posts to your thread. If that does not work, you may need to private mail a moderator (rockstar143, he is usually on here daily) and have them work their magic to get it fixed.
Unless you turned it off in the past, you should get email notifications sent to the email you used for your initial AZine profile set-up by default. So check the email address here on the forum. If you don't follow that email inbox anymore, that may explain why you are not getting notified. If you are still utilizing that particular email address for daily life, then you may need to turn the function ON again, if it is OFF for some reason.
Click on your username, that will take you to your profile page. Follow the path below and that should get you going again, if you are still using your initial email address, if not you may need to UPDATE your email to your current address to get the notifications:
Click your username>profile page>settings>usercontrol panel>edit options>messaging & notifications>default thread subscription mode>
click the down arrow in the box and pick one of the selections (instant email notifications) to populate the box and save.
That should get notifications sent to the designated email when someone posts to your thread. If that does not work, you may need to private mail a moderator (rockstar143, he is usually on here daily) and have them work their magic to get it fixed.
Oh man, oh man....what a night. So, that kid who sold me the S\C was supposed to come over tonight so that I could get his bigger fuel pump and injectors off his car and swap him my stock ones. He called and said that his battery was dead and he had no way of jumping it, so I decided to drive 1 hr 15 min to his house instead. You can tell I really want these parts. So, I took my injectors\fuel rail and fuel pump off my car and drove over there. When I got there I first removed his fuel pump. IT WAS THE STOCK ONE! WTF?!! Then I removed his fuel injectors\rail. THEY WERE ALSO STOCK!! The WHOLE time he had his S\C he was running it with the stock fuel pump and injectors! He was in shock as well. He didn't build it himself, a shop in Chicago where he just moved down from built it, and lied to him about certain things obviously. So instead he gives me his whole IM with the P2R Plenums on it. Those Plenums alone are $500! I'm not done yet, he gave me 05-06 RL complete front calipers\brakes, new oil catch can, carbon fiber AEM digital boost gauge kit, S\C oil extractor, runners with high performance injectors fitted for my car (I think they are 550 cc, but not sure yet, and P2R fuel rails. I don't know why those weren't on his car, they were just sitting in a box. I will post pics of everything tomorrow, it's getting late here. Also, he was running a completely different spark plug with the S\C. I took a pic of that too. The kid is super nice and just admires the heck out of my car so he just didn't want all those parts to go to waste.
Here are all the parts he gave me. I forgot to mention that he also gave me that rear Innovative motor mount ( which I just replaced because I got all new Innovative motor mounts) and another fuel pressure regulator. Those Acura RL 4 piston calipers won't fit on my car with my 18 x 9 RPF1's, but I might have to extend the wheels out a little bit by spacing them so I can fit bigger tires in the near future so I'll just hold on to them just in case. The oil catch can I'm not sure if I really even need, probably not. Not sure if the fuel pressure regulator I have on my car now is better than the other one but I'm sure they both do the same job. I don't know if those injectors are Overkill but I just looked them up and they are 440 CC. Also that spark plug shown above is the one that he was running in his car. One other thing I noticed in his car was that from the tank someone had disconnected the fuel line that feeds the motor and added another fuel line in its place. Not sure why they would do that. Also, if anyone knows let me know which fuel pump I should get. Should I just order a walbro 255? I'm not sure which one fits though
^aaaarrrrrgg! 2ndgentl, that's quite the treasure trove you have there!
Figure out what you want to keep, clean up the rest and put them in the Blackmarket Section, per the rules, and profit. That will pay for your new fuel pump below and more.
Get the Walbro 255lph (#GSS-342). If you get it from any other source other than Walbrofuelpumps.com make sure it is an authentic Walbro pump. According to the interwebs, cheap Chinese knock-offs have been known to surface at the customer's doorstep after ordering.
^aaaarrrrrgg! 2ndgentl, that's quite the treasure trove you have there!
Figure out what you want to keep, clean up the rest and put them in the Blackmarket Section, per the rules, and profit. That will pay for your new fuel pump below and more.
Get the Walbro 255lph (#GSS-342). If you get it from any other source other than Walbrofuelpumps.com make sure it is an authentic Walbro pump. According to the interwebs, cheap Chinese knock-offs have been known to surface at the customer's doorstep after ordering.
Awesome! Thanks Zeta! I will be ordering it from Walbro. I'll get it ordered now so I can have it sooner then later. But what do you think about those fuel injectors? Should I put those on? Curious why those weren't on his car. Also curious why they disconnected the main fuel line and put another one in its place.
But what do you think about those fuel injectors? Should I put those on? Curious why those weren't on his car. Also curious why they disconnected the main fuel line and put another one in its place.
I have had the stock injectors ever since 2005 when my S/C'er was installed with the alt. HBP, with no issue. As I mentioned in previous posts, my particular driving style may (most likely) differ from yours in as how hard the car is driven daily. With that said, I personally think that you will be at the upper limits of the stock injectors, with the Walbro 255, when driving hard, but OK.
Here is a suggestion, install the high flow FP, leaving the stock injectors in for the moment, adjust the fuel pressure between 35-40psi and, if possible, have the ability to monitor it at idle and during driving. Drive the car around MODERATELY to break in the new XLR8 clutch for 500-1K miles; in addition, using premium fuel listen for knock and see how the car behaves.
As stated in post#102 below:
Originally Posted by Marcelechka
@2ndgentl If in fact you have the HBP, you can run your stock injectors. I did so with a fuel pressure regulator, upgraded fuel pump, bolt-ons & tune. Granted, I wasn't beating up on the car; but, it pulled hard RELIABLY whenever I got on it.
The only difference is that you don't have a tune, yet.
Zeta do you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up? Is there a way to hook up a gauge right on the comptech FPR? What grade fuel do you get in S. Florida? I'm lucky to have a 94 spot nearby.
2ndgentl, I'm not sure if you can run larger injectors without a tune. I'm not sure if the stock ECU can handle that.
Zeta do you have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up? Is there a way to hook up a gauge right on the comptech FPR?
gnuts, here is a short conversation we had back in Apr2016:
Originally Posted by gnuts
Off topic, but zeta, do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the comptech FPR?
Originally Posted by zeta
Yes, I had an Auto Meter #5763 gauge installed along with a boost gauge into an A-piller pod back in 2005. However, I suspect that it is not very accurate.
The straight threaded part goes into the FPR, either a female end or threaded end receives the CT Engineering fuel hose supplied with the SC'er kit and the threaded female SIDE outlet receives the fuel pressure gauge.
Of course, you would have to research the proper fitting size(s) for the CT FPR and fuel hose and fuel gauge ends to see if you can find one for your project. A good place to start would be summit racing when the fitting sizes are narrowed down.
Hope that helps.
Originally Posted by gnuts
Thanks Zeta. I have a shaft HBP but need to up the fuel pressure. Not sure when i'll get around to this though.
_________________________________
Originally Posted by gnuts
What grade fuel do you get in S. Florida? I'm lucky to have a 94 spot nearby.
93 grade premium is available at all the top tier stations: Shell; Exxon, Chevron; Am/Pm=Arco; however, it is starting to climb in price.
There is also a VP race fuel place that has 101 Street blaze out of the pump just north of down town Ft. Lauderdale. I don't get over there very often though lately. If you ever have a chance, try a few gallons (around $6-8per gal. last time I used it) of that stuff out some time on less than a quarter tank. WOW!
haha, that's my daddy brain! thanks Zeta. I'm going to make a note of this stuff so I don't forget. I have a car spreadsheet with lots of good info to keep along with all my mods and maintenance. (I know, it's a little much but it comes in handy!)
haha, that's my daddy brain! thanks Zeta. I'm going to make a note of this stuff so I don't forget. I have a car spreadsheet with lots of good info to keep along with all my mods and maintenance. (I know, it's a little much but it comes in handy!)
If you can remove and install the blower, which I know you can, you can get your fuel pressure project sorted with no problem. It's just a little intimidating because once you loosen those connections up, you have to make sure to seal them/monitor them to make sure of no leakage. The shop that installed mine used some kind of liquid Teflon stuff on the threads to fight against leaks.
2ndgentl, I'm not sure if you can run larger injectors without a tune. I'm not sure if the stock ECU can handle that.
That's what I was afraid of. That's probably why he never put them on. I guess I can try them and see how the car runs, I mean if it dumps too much fuel it's only going to fall on its face. Thanks Gnuts!
That's what I was afraid of. That's probably why he never put them on. I guess I can try them and see how the car runs, I mean if it dumps too much fuel it's only going to fall on its face. Thanks Gnuts!
Don't waste your time, it won't work... the ecu will not detect the larger injectors to adjust from 270 to 550cc automatically. As soon as you crank the car, it will idle like sh*t as there is too much fuel being dumped... we didn't even try to drive it because we saw the flow chart was all out of wack because of that; both RPM & throttle positioning.
As you are a couple of $$$$ into your build, don't be foolish and burn it all away by carelessness....You need to tune - period!
I'm sure I have video of this somewhere in my photobucket; I'll check later.
Last edited by Marcelechka; 01-12-2017 at 08:08 AM.
Don't waste your time, it won't work... the ecu will not detect the larger injectors to adjust from 270 to 550cc automatically. As soon as you crank the car, it will idle like sh*t as there is too much fuel being dumped... we didn't even try to drive it because we saw the flow chart was all out of wack because of that; both RPM & throttle positioning.
As you are a couple of $$$$ into your build, don't be foolish and burn it all away by carelessness....You need to tune - period!
I'm sure I have video of this somewhere in my photobucket; I'll check later.
Thanks for your input Marcelechka! Actually, I looked up the part number on those injectors and they are 440 CC. Should I still say screw it with those injectors and don't even bother trying them? Seems like everyone is running the stock injectors and doing fine with them. I read somewhere that the stock injectors from an Acura CL type S 6-speed were 310 cc after they tested them on an injector machine. I have an injector cleaning guy that has that machine I can always run up to his house and have him test the stock injectors so I can see for myself exactly how much they put out. I ordered the walbro 255 fuel pump direct from walbro so I should be getting that sometime soon. I need to also order an air fuel pressure gauge. Then go get it tuned
Regarding the injectors, reference past posts below:
Originally Posted by 03 tls nc
Marcelechka thanks for the info on the EMB, nobody in this area wants to mess with it. Figured I would have to learn it for my self. Can you confirm the stock J32A2 injector size? I've found were some say 270cc and others say 310cc, I'm planning to run RDX injectors with the EMB but need to use proper calculation by the base injector trim. Any other info on setup of tuning the EMB would be greatly appreciated.
I ran stock injectors with the HBP; although with tune, it ran just fine.
When I ran the custom pulley, we went with Bosch Part: 0280-158-117 rated at 485cc. We modified the injectors to plug & play onto the rail. The EMB allows you to change the injector size, so we were good there. Where the issue lied was, when we started the car with the new configuration, the idle was VERY rough. Reason being, the stock ecu was thinking the stock injectors were plugged in and the EMB doesn't override until it reaches the set voltage (boost). So, instead of clamping it to detect any positive pressure, we set it well below (don't remember what voltage). From there, the EMB was technically running as a primary ecu since the voltage was set really low to override the stock settings from start.
It took a bit to get the various maps all set up along with the throttle positioning response... once done, the power was very linear. Took a whole weekend of street driving to this... constantly pulling over to adjust any & everything... the emanage made it happen though.
At the end of the day, the EMB is a great tool that's been proven to work. Give it a shot if you're capable; worked for me.
I just got the stock injectors tested and the RC racing injectors shown in my pictures tested as well. The stock injectors were 275 cc @ 50 psi and they are 13.5 amps. The RC racing injectors were 400 cc @ 50 psi and 560 cc @ 60 psi and they are 12.3 amps. I left my stock injectors there so he can rebuild them so I know they are all running perfect when I put them back on. I mean they have 160,000 miles on them so I think it's smart to have them rebuilt, he's only charging me $15 an injector
Hey guys, the build is looking good so far! Just be careful not to go too far trying to get power from the CL, you might end up doing something you will regret. Keep her at 3 lbs of boost and dos NOT try to tune the J32 with AEM FIC or anything else. Ive never met anyone who could pull it off. I blew my motor trying to get 6 lbs of boost, 2 of my cylinders ceased, no compression. As for belt slippage, I used a spray to get it togrip, and I always had an extra belt on hand. Also, sometimes if the pulleys aren't perfectly lined up, the belt will slip. So you may have to use very thin washers or machine the base of the pulley to get it to be in line and no slippage. Drive safe and even though the car is a cool hobby to have, don't let it consume you, life is more than cars. I found it to end uo being like a never ending quest for satisfaction, more like a curse than a blessing, lol.
Hey guys, the build is looking good so far! Just be careful not to go too far trying to get power from the CL, you might end up doing something you will regret. Keep her at 3 lbs of boost and dos NOT try to tune the J32 with AEM FIC or anything else. Ive never met anyone who could pull it off. I blew my motor trying to get 6 lbs of boost, 2 of my cylinders ceased, no compression.
rondog, a lot has changed since those days where you experienced your unfortunate difficulties, in regards to a tune.
There is, for a price, a plug n play AEM unit available that will safely, in the capable hands of an experienced tuner, handle a tune for the boosted CL-S6. It is available through Dezod Motorsports, Lancaster, NY 14086. See the link below:
The dyno on that webpage is forum member R J Poseidon 6 who has had his 6 speed tuned by Kings Performance in Orlando FL. That AEM unit is discussed on the thread below started by brian6speed back in May 2014
Yes RJ has been on here over the years and it's still running strong. Also members have always had success with emanage blue including Marcelechka who posted above.
just thought I'd share the injector diagnostic report of my stock injectors with 160,000 miles on them. They weren't too bad but now they're like new again
they basically replace all the guts in an injector ( the filter screen inside, and all the O-rings ). Then they put them through their machine with some kind of cleaning solvent and pressurize the inside of the injector as it cleans it. He told me our stock injectors are almost identical to a Hayabusa injector. Lol
they basically replace all the guts in an injector ( the filter screen inside, and all the O-rings ). Then they put them through their machine with some kind of cleaning solvent and pressurize the inside of the injector as it cleans it. He told me our stock injectors are almost identical to a Hayabusa injector. Lol
So, I put the Walbro 255 fuel pump on today. I am running my stock injectors as well. I never messed with that fuel pressure regulator that I installed with the kit so I wasn't sure what psi it was set at. After finishing everything I took it out for a run. I still can't believe how hard this car pulls! When I got home I decided to install a fuel psi gauge to see where it's at. At an idle its at 52-53 psi and when I revved it up it hit 70 psi! So I know those injectors are beyond maxed out.
01-06-2017, 09:28 PM
2ndgentl, IMHO, it would be better to 'err on the side of caution' and wait then to have your OEM fuel pump have a momentary 'burp' or 'shit the bed' entirely, as it struggles to supply fuel, during a 7psi 3rd gear pull. I only say that because I know you want to test the car to the max.
I believe brian6speed has a similar lithium battery on his autocross car for weight savings as well. 
