i have taken it to autozone repair mechanics and they all can't fix the problem, ended up eating my money without fixing anything. Has any of you got a clue on what it is because i am in big trouble nce winter comes.

 

Is coolant getting into you heater core? Is the fan operating. We need some more info.

 

the fan is operating, most of the air conditioning is working as far as i know. It is just that when its time to use the heat, only cold air blows out of the vents.

 

There is a flap inside the a/c unit under the dash, usually called the "blend door" to blend hot & cold air to get the temp the user desires. If the heater core is working OK and the coolant is passing through it, most likely this is stuck in some way, maybe servo motor is stuck or jammed? Also check valve to heater core on firewall is operating OK. Had you had the cooling system worked on before the problem happened? If so you may need to bleed the cooling system properly.

 

How much would the repair or fix on the heater cost me?

 

Its still broken after 2 years?

 

I do not think it is a heater core problem . I would look in the heater valve - on the firewall,linkage and snap clip right by the valve or servo motor

 

Jeez, just run the car's self diagnosis of the HVAC system. It'll tell you what the problem is in 5 minutes. Why waste money looking for a problem when the car will tell you for free?

 

It could be a thermostat. I had this kind of problem some years ago & it was an inexpensive thermostat replacement.

 

Stuck open thermostat will cause loss of heat while idling , should operate slightly impared while driving but still acceptable. Closed thermostat will overheat the engine.

 

did you ever get it fixed??? i just had the same problem, i fixed it with wd40, left hand, and wife. you have someone sit in car with car on. you open hood and look behind motor close to passenger side there is a little thing with a wire between hoses. take wd40 and spray the mechanism. have person sitting in car go from 90 degrees to 60. then switch again back to 90. pull wire and it should come free.

 

just incase u didnt fix yet...

 

I took it to the Acura Dealership. The fixed the problem for $450. The heater motor (apparently) was messed up. Just glad i have heat now.

 

You mention the heater motor. Is this the actuator motor to the right of the console , under the dash? If you have a part number from your receipt, it would help. The price of this motor is about $115. I also have intermittent heat and sometimes no A/C, with heat coming out of the vents. It's not the cable to the valve on the heater hose behind the engine. I get a clicking noise under the dash, which makes me think it's the actuator motor.

 

In the Helms manual p.21-8, it tells you 'how to retrieve a DTC' in the climate control.

 

it could be this door issue...my is simliar...it wont get hot until i turn the knob all the way the the hottest temp and then it warms up and then i can cool it down to my liking...

try turning it all the way up and see if it warms up...this would be a quick fix.

 

2015 Update....The guys really just ate my money back in 2012. What the dealer did was just move the switch located under the hood (on passenger right below the back of the engine) and that just gave me heat through the winters and cold through the summers. I finally fixed the issue myself for around $30 in 2014 (six years later). The actuator behind the glove box had a broken hand (holder for the controls). Bought it off ebay and took me less than one hour to put everything together. Youtube and trial and error is really the best teacher (and acurazine of course, hahaha). Thanks to everyone who tried to help me out. These posts are priceless.

 

Thanks for the update! That's why they're called 'stealerships' and it is NO LIE.

Summary: Your actual problem was at the other (interior) end of the cable that attaches to the cable-actuated coolant blend valve visible under the hood. You can change the temperature manually by opening the hood and moving the lever arm to let through more or less coolant (which is what your mechanic did).

This reminds me to keep the visible valve lubed-up for low resistance. It already likes to stick a bit.

 

It's 1 am in Chicago and I just fixed my heat issue with a can of WD-40 after searching the forum. Thank you Acurazine!

 

actually it's the other way around, heat at idle cold when moving