StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Ok I'm in trouble I tried hard wiring my fm radio and crossed the wires I don't know if it has anything to do with it but I fried my xm radio and now I started driving and at a stop my engin was shaking violently then my check engin light started flashing and then all the lights came on! I'm possituve it's not my tranny could I have fried anything when the wires crossed it did spark ! Btw I tried hardwiring through the wires behind my ciggeretye lighter and they touched each other and sparked. I am posting from my iPhone freakin out right now please help anyone?

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Anyone??
Are there any CPU chips that I could have fried?
How many computer chips are in our car that I could have messed up ?
Are the computer chips in our cars expensive? I hope it is nothing bad the car shakes like it's gonna fall apart I don't think I will be able to get to work tommorrow!!

Can anyone chime in and let me know what I might have done?

1hotcls6

check your fuses on both sides of the dash

nspec_ya4

iTrader: (38)

i dont think any body here can help you with that. thats an electrical problem and will more than likely need to be diagnosed in person.

how long ago was it that you crossed the radio wires?

by crossing the radio wires, u should have only blown up a fuse or two.
that should have nothing to do with the engine vibrating,
unless u crossed teh wires and left them there. That would cause the wires to heat up and melt the coating around them, also melting the coating of wires running with them, which will cause even more shorts and who knows what else

MrFluffy

I have crossed the cigarette lighter wires a number of times and it should just blow the fuse on the passenger side

I belive that the stalling is unrelated but I could be wrong Is

on another note is there an exposed wire touching behind the cigarette lighter

also does it just stall at the light because it sounds like your alternator is going

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I was hooking up the satilite radio earlier today I stripped the plastic off the two wires from the ciggeretye lighter and cut the power line from the satilite radio and tried hard wiring it but it went bad I crossed the wires and it sparked for a second and everything shut off and came back on! My satilite radio is fried will not turn on. Later when I started driving a half mile from my house at the first stop sign it started shaking bad so I pulled over popped the hood and the engin was shaking vilently so I started driving and then check engin started flashing then 30 seconds later all the lights came on. I take care of my car very well and I know it deffinatly is not the tranny! It ram 100% untill I messed with the freakin wires!
Help me out guys

MrFluffy

Do you have power goin to the cigarette lighter now or is it still blown the fuse I mean ??


Is the check engine light still on, if so unplug the battery for 5 minutes. It should go off then start it up. My cars check engine light has come on and it ran like shit after I unpluged the code never cam up again and the car ran fine but if comes on again then take it to the dealership but check all the other stuff first

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

It's never stalled just started shaking at the first stop sign really bad no stalling

MrFluffy

I think its the alternator

If you get a volt meter and just hook the two leads to the battery while its running it should read over 14 volts I would check this

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Would the alteranator make the engine run like total crap?
The cigerette lighter still works cuz my radar detector was working!
I unhooked the battery and left it we will see what happens tommorrow mor ing!
I hope it is not too expensive cuz there go my headers if it cost me more then $500!!
I have the worste luck!!

MrFluffy

The car will run like crap because its about stall nothing has power I cant explain it but yes it will run like crap

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

maybe you should pull the CEL and see what the code is.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

pull the code. sounds like u have a misfire tho

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

ur are missing fire on spark plugs buddy u fried something else and thats why ur egnine is shaking thats just my opinion but in person i could say lil bit more

@edit ^u were first damn

BTW :P http://www.justanswer.com/car/acura?...FQOuFQodiRMS3g

nspec_ya4

iTrader: (38)

its not the alternator, but its hard to tell whats causing the misfiring w/o diagnosing it in person.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

the codes that came up are P0302, P0304, P0305 , P0300 and P1399.
I know the first 3 are misfires in the cylinders.
I googled P1399 and found alot of odessey owners had the same problems and changed EGR valves o2 sensors and so on..
After alot of reading I ordered 4 coil packs of ebay (I know 3 misfires) I ordered 4 cuz there used and got 1 extra just incase.
I am gonna change the 3 coil packs and see where that goes .
Can anyone else let me know if they ever had there car throw these codes and how they soved the problem?

jproy

I hate to tell you but it is highly doubtful that you have even one bad coil pack. That is probably not your problem. Those five codes can be triggered just from burning down the tires with bad wheel hop, bad IACV, clogged EGR, faulty O2 sensor, bad MAP sensor, etc. Very often the codes don’t mean what they indicate is broken, the symptom is just being caused by something else, sometimes extremely unrelated. I don’t understand exactly what you did because if you truly shorted the Cigarette lighter wires than you would have blown the lighter fuse, no question about it, even if only for a small fraction of a second. Since your radar is still working I think you probably shorted something else, unless you did change the lighter fuse.

I don’t care how you take care of your car, it is an auto and it may be done, just a coincidence it happened now. After installing the gauges in my car, before I got out of the parking space where I did the work, my ABS light came on and it turned out the wheel tape that allows the buttons on the steering wheel to work and the wheel to turn was starting to fail. The OPDS code came up as the SRS TDC. Took me a while to figure out it was actually the wheel tape. After changing the part I could see the cracks in the wheel tape where it was failing. My wife bought her TL new in 02 and she drives slow as hell and maintained the car to the “T”. The trany crapped out on her one day while driving. If not the trany then you have truly screwed something up bad.

You are not going to get much help here from anyone not looking at the car in person, only speculation that will nickel and dime you and may not fix the problem. You are going to have to take it to a good mechanic or the dealer or you are going to waste a lot of your time. If it is not the trans or some simple valve or switch that happened to crap out then you are looking at a serious bill from the dealer or a very good mechanic. If you have burnt something electrical up you will be lucky to get off for less than $500. Worst case scenario, I could easily see this being $1500 at the dealer if you have damaged something electrical that is not simple and easily traceable. Good Luck to you.

MrFluffy

I would reset the codes at your work and see if they come up agina other than that I agree with Jproy

camaroracer016

dirty injectors?

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Would a bad O2 sensor or bad MAP sensors make the car drive like crap and not be able to go over 60MPH?

MrFluffy

02 Dont think so

MAP probably

But Jproy siad I would take it to a dealership if the codes keep popping up

Did the person who read the codes reset them??

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I Work at a DLR and they diagnosed the codes and I WILLfix this myself with the help of u guys. I know a guy that worked at the Acura dlr and he said with these codes start with the coil packs and then EGR valve and that SHOULD fix it. He said that there DLR would Start with the most expesive thing and work its way to the cheapest thing it can be. I am gonna start with the cheaspest thing then work my way up..
The acura DLR charges $120 just to tell me the same codes my DLR pulled up!

TypeStylinOnU

you might waste alot of time and money just guessing and fixing, hoping for the best

MrFluffy

Did they just check the codes or reset them because if thats what you want to do the cheapest thing to do is reset the code and see if they come back and see if the same codes come back

blackasscls

The only time something like this happened to me was with the catalytic converter going out..... It broke into pieces and almost completely blocked the exhaust on my car..It also would not go above sixty.

Also..you have lowered your car just like I did recently before I did it I looked it up and found that supposedly lowering it puts a horrible amount of strain on your driveshafts and the rest of your suspension... A busted drive shaft will make your entire car shake violently, or just vibrate as you accelerate. The boots might not even be torn nor will they click when you turn.

These are just my what ifs, if its not the coils or the egr or the tranny. Some how I can't see frying a fuse inside the cabin cause you this much trouble with your car though. Good luck though I hope everything goes well, first think I would do though is what Mr.Fluffy said and try resetting the ECU

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Im gonna reset the codes when my coil packs come in.. If the codes read the same i am gonna change the coil packs on the cytinders that are misfiring. If that dont work im gonna clean the EGR valve then go from there..
I will let u guys know what it ends up being!

typeR

the car is in limp mode now thats why it wont go above a certain speed ... still shaking ? idle fine drive fine until hi rpms ? if so probablly cat ... un bolt the side nearest engine and speperate the two so exhaust can flow .. if car now runs strong bad cat

BTW cat is like an 8 yr 100k warranty something like that

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I'll try that right after I replace the coil packs and clean egr valve.
I been doing alot of reasearch and 60% of the time o honda oddessey or v6 accord or tl showed those code it was the coil packs..then EGR valve..
We will see!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I read about someone else having this problem on there TL and the cleaner there injectors and fuel BAR ...
Does anyone know how to do this a DIY?
Thanks again guys...

jproy

You are going to need to get yourself an Acura CL Service Manual. There are to many steps to doing that and it is dangerous to mess with the fuel system if you dont know what you are doing. Easy to mess up and injector seal, etc. The manual has 2000pages of pictures and instructions for anything you could want to fix, take apart, or trouble shoot. I mean ANYTHING! I know a good deal about cars and I still have one for my CL. It has saved my ass many times and is well worth every penny. Hope you get if figured out.

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

I love the service manual.

Has come through for me many times already.

Money well spent IMO.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Im gonna try to find a service manual today after work at a autozone..
Do they have them in borders books?

Can someone please tell me which is cylinder 1,2,3,4,5 and 6?
Is cylinder 1 driver side top right corner or bottom right corner?
Thanks!

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

if ur standing in front of the car looking at the engine bay
135
246

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

They might have it at Borders Books.

Not sure though.

It's a pricey manual if you buy it at retail.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I FIXED HER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It was Bad coil for cylinder #4....
I got 4 coils for $75 shipped of ebay..
(I bought 4 cuz i got 3 cylinder misfire codes and 1 extra, just in case 1 shipped was bad)
I just swapped 1 coil pack turned car on and it ranned FINE, no sputtering or anything...
I havent drove it yet but I'm pretty sure its all good car is not limping or sputtering like it was B4..
I will report back after i drive home!

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

Sweet.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Drove all the way home and no lights came on and drives like new again!
The codes I got where P0302, P0304, P0305, P0300, and P1399..
P0302 = misfire cylinder 2..P0304 = misfire cylinder 4..P0305 = misfire cylinder 5 and
P0300 is random misfire, I dont really know what P1399 is..
I figured that since cylinder 123 are on top and 456 are on bottom and they fire
1-4-2-5-3-6 that I would start by replacing coil pack 4 cuz i though coil pack 4 might cause the next 2 cylinders in line to throw a code also and I was RIGHT!!
I LOVE IT.. feels soo good to fix something by yourself.. My DLR charged $42 total for diag fee and I paid $15 per coil pack off E-bay (used) i bought 4 and it was $15 to ship so that was $75.. so $75 + $42 = $117 (total) I wonder how much a ACURA stellership would have charged me??
I could not have done it without you guys..
Thanks to everyone this board is DA BOMB!!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

You can tell the coil pack is fried when u look inside the metal spring is melted and blackend... I also have 3 more good coils for future use!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

That is WRONG it is

123
456

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

u sure about that, ive been told that order on the tl side when someone asked what was teh lay out.