2ndgentl

I know I should have the paperwork from that engine when I purchased it almost two years ago but I want to say as I remember it having around 92k on it. If you're telling me your engine sounds great and you were in the middle of the specs, that's what I'm going to go for it as well.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Give it a shot, you may have a better sense of hearing then I; however, that is a reasonable compromise. Then if it is not to your liking, dive back in a tighten them up a bit.

Yeah, the first time I attempted an adjustment on my own, I was in the same boat. I looked at those intake/exhaust ranges, in the Helms, and thought WTF do I do? I asked my father, who used to tinker with his 4 cylinder '66 Porsche 912 engine (talking about loud valves ) and he recommended staying it the middle of the range(s). Now there is a big difference between that engine and the J32A2, don't get me wrong; however, his advice worked and I've stuck with it all these years since his passing.

2ndgentl

So, I adjusted all my valves today. Some were a little tight and some a little loose. Intake specs: .008 - .009 in (.20 - .24 mm) exhaust specs: .011 - .013 in (.28 - .32 mm).
I adjusted the intake valve lash to .009 in, but .010 in wouldn't fit. And the exhaust to .012 in, and .013 would fit but really tight. Sounds A LOT quieter, but still slightly hear them ticking at higher rpms, which is fine. Seems to run really good as well. I guess to make them even quieter I would have to tighten them about .002 in more, but it really does sound good, so I'll just leave it.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

So from all your hard work, if the engine is to your liking and strong, what's next on the agenda?

2ndgentl

I ordered an Aeromotive fuel gauge that screws onto the Aeromotive fuel/pressure regulator that I have. Once I get the gauge (which should be any day now) I am planning on putting the RC 440 fuel injectors and p2r fuel rail on the car. I hope I can get the car to run with those injectors on there, because the next step after that would be putting the supercharger on and dropping it off to get it tuned, but now I'm wondering if I should get a slightly smaller SC pulley to create 6-7 PSI. The pulley that I have on there now creates 4.5 PSI and sometimes hits 5 psi. Not sure if I should just leave that on there to keep it more reliable I also did a compression test before i did a valve job (which i plan on doing it again now that I did a valve job). Everything was 215 PSI except for #2 cylinder, it was at 205, which is still good, but who knows it might have changed slightly now that I adjusted the valve lash.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

If that is your desire, it may be prudent to purchase the 6-7psi pulley, to have on hand during tuning, so the tuner can create 93 pump gas tunes at the same time. That will give you tunes that bring out the best of BOTH pulley's to run either at your discretion. The only caveat will be, the faster you spin the M62, with the smaller HBP, the more heat it will produce.

2ndgentl

Ugh, I've been fighting with these RC racing 440cc injectors that I've been trying to install on my car. Now remember, I got these when I purchased the supercharger a few years back, so they had already fitted them in the stock CL runners and had the pigtails on them to just plug into the stock harness. They are mounted on my engine but seem to be leaking every time I pressurize the system. It just seems like something wasn't machined right fitting these injectors on this engine. I'm to the point where I just don't trust these custom-made injectors and would rather get high performance injectors that just fit into the p2r fuel rails and fit into the stock Runners without any modifications. I think the best solution to this problem would be getting RDX injectors since they are 410cc and really cheap. I just don't know what needs to be done to make them fit the stock runners and the p2r fuel rails, or do they actually fit with no modifications? Does this seem legit, eBay sells 4x Denso RDX injectors with pigtails for $45? I mean, that's stupid cheap. Also, not sure if those pigtails they come with fit my injector harness. Wondering if the other pigtail jumpers I have from the RC injectors would fit the RDX injectors

zeta

iTrader: (1)

The above is a post from P2R I found with a quick search. Not sure if this helps you or not?

2ndgentl

So, these RC injectors are the same on top as the stock injectors. Here's where I'm having trouble I guess... The stock injectors have 1 O-ring on the top, the RC injectors have room for 2 O-rings but only had 1 when they were given to me. They are the same exact o-ring from the stock injectors, but tend to leak even though both injectors feel exactly the same when you push them into the fuel rail, nice and snug. So I figured I would put 2 O-rings on the top of the RC injectors, but when you do that and you try to wiggle the p2r fuel rail on it the first O-ring sometimes slides in the fuel rail but the second one always gets boogered-up. If those injectors weren't siliconed to the runners ( those RC injectors have a fat bottom so the runners had to be drilled out a lot wider where the bottom of the injector sits ) you might be able to wiggle them in there by hand, but since they are siliconed to the runners you have no choice but to push down on the fuel rail which boogers up the O-rings, but I'm not even 100% sure that's the reason why they leak. When I had just one O-ring on each RC injector and the p2r fuel rails were perfectly pressed on (they feel nice and snug) the injectors they still leaked and that was under 10 psi of fuel pressure, so who knows what else will leak when its up to 50 psi or more. I just don't trust them at this point, and I really don't want to see my car burn to the ground if it ends up leaking while I'm driving lol.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I agree. Found the thread below, in regards to the RDX injector conversion, check it out. Though it looks like you may have to do a 'little' work on them.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-tl-cl-716741/

S2K injectors may be an option as well?

2ndgentl

[QUOTE=zeta;16517345]I agree. Found the thread below, in regards to the RDX injector conversion, check it out. Though it looks like you may have to do a 'little' work on them.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-tl-cl-716741/

S2K injectors may be an option as well?

So, I've done some research and talked to a few different people about this situation. I talked to Sean from P2R and he told me that the reason why those RC injectors were leaking is because when the fuel rail gets pushed down the O-ring on top slightly clears the edge of the fuel rail inside the chamber causing it to leak. I checked it out with a micrometer and he was right, the top of the RC injectors are pushed in too far where the O-ring seals it. I guess I can fix this problem by adding spacers to the top of the injectors but obviously the fuel rail mounting holes would have to be ovaled-out enough to bolt them back on the runners. It just seems like too much of a hassle to see if that even works. Sean from p2r recommended I get the 445cc injectors they sell with the jumpers for $520. It's just plug and play with those and I can just put the stock ported Runners back on and everything will fit just right. I'm just not sure if the 445cc injectors would be too much for 5 lb of boost. Not sure if I would even be able to get it to idle just to get it to the shop to get it tuned. I know I can turn the fuel pressure down but you can only do that so much. I guess I'll find out when I install them. If I got the OEM RDX injectors that are 410cc just for the injectors I would probably spend around $250 and then I would have to get the jumpers as well, also fab them to make everything work. The Denso RDX injectors that are online for $45 for 4 injectors and 4 jumpers are garbage. I mean, common sense, $10 an injector it's going to give you problems. There's even a video on YouTube on a TSX where he dynoed it with the Denso RDX injectors and the OEM RDX injectors and he gained 20 wheel horsepower just from switching to the OEM RDX injectors. Also, I think I'm just going to stick with the 3.33 in. hbp that makes 5 PSI. A lot of people on the j-series forums on Facebook we're saying that anything after 6 PSI the engine and supercharger get heat soaked quite easily and the best their car has ever run was on 5 PSI. Which will be fine because I am going for reliability more than speed, and that should still put me over 300 whp.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Oh man, I've run into all the problems you are describing already. I have RC 750 injectors that are supposed to fit the J32A2 fuel setup. I'm also using a P2R fuel rail for a J32A2. I repeatedly had problems with fuel leak between the fuel rail and the top of the injector because that small O-Ring would get trashed. This is because it's easy to push it in too far without the collar that the OEM injectors have. My fuel rail had the wholes that mount to the runners ovaled out, which allows some extra height for the injectors. I solved the fuel leak issue with some silicone grease and gently retrying many times (huge PITA since you have to remove the IM every time). However, I then had issues with a vacuum leak from where the RC injectors mounted to the lower runner. RC provided 2 O-Rings on the bottom of the injectors, but they made the injectors too tall. So I just used one and even with some silicone grease, I had vacuum leaks that I couldn't easily fix because the IM basically blocks everything.

Long story short, go with the fuel injectors that are made to fit the platform. The extra cost will save you headaches and issues down the road. I recommend Fuel Injector Clinic or Injector Dynamic brands. You will need to select the proper injectors in your AEMTuner settings too. You seem to be getting your car tuned by someone else, but I would again recommend that you learn how to do basic tuning yourself. Even a couple hours watching this playlist will give you a better tune than the average tuner: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...-lNWQvzKieXHvE

2ndgentl

Thank you Karanx7 for the motivation and that video. I'll watch that later tonight. Here I'm thinking, am I the only one that is encountering these issues? But actually I have some better news. Yesterday I was 2 centimeters away from ordering those FIC injectors 445cc from P2R ( which I praise that company because they are very good with their products and customer service ). I went ahead and tried it again to see what the hell is going on with these RC 440cc injectors and what I can do to keep them from leaking. Since they are siliconed into the runners I decided to take the runners back off and see if I can press the P2R fuel rails on them with 2 top O-rings instead of 1. Also, I replaced the rubber grommet on the top with two fat O-rings that were the same size as that grommet ( the grommets were starting to dry rot ). With enough finesse die electric grease I got the fuel rails on (it wasn't easy). So now I'm thinking that I'd like to pressure test them before I put them back on the car. I attached a pressure gauge on one side of the fuel rail and put my compressor blower nozzle on the other side of the fuel rail. Also, I put Dawn liquid soap around the top of the injectors where it meets the fuel rail..... I pressurized both of the fuel rails up to 120 PSI! Absolutely no leaks at all! I was even wearing safety glasses because I thought at 120 PSI something was going to burst lol. So now obviously I'm thinking that there is no way that fuel can leak from the injectors, so I mounted them back on the car and pressurized the system. No Leaks!! So now I started at 25 psi according to my FPR and started my car. It didn't want to idle but giving it gas it sounded like a WRX. So I bumped it up to 30 PSI. Same thing... I went all the way up to 50 psi and I noticed that it was running worse and just blowing smoke out the back ( obviously running way too rich ). And then I realized, Jesus...i have an AEM digital AFR in my car, I can just look at that to see how rich or lean it's running. I was so nervous about fuel leaks that I didn't even think about that. So I dropped it to 20 psi and it idled absolutely perfect at 13.9 AFR. After I took it out for a ride and punching it a few times (it ran great) I guess the computer registered everything and now it's idling at 14.7 AFR, and WOT it's at 10.5 AFR, which I know that's a little rich but at idle it was perfect, which is fine. So the fuel pressure according to the FPR is at 20 psi at an idle and at 30 PSI WOT. The way I set it up is the wahlbro 255 fuel pump pumps fuel to the rear fuel rail, exits on the other side and runs through the other fuel rail, and then exits the fuel rail to the FPR, then to the return.


Above pic is how the fuel injector originally was.


and this is how I got them to seal

2ndgentl

Just a thought...so, my car seems to be running/idling perfect at 20 psi and WOT it hits 30 psi, but im not sure if that makes much sense to me. I thought 20 psi is way too low for the car to even be running. I mean, isn't it supposed to be no lower than 43 psi so that the fuel can be atomized? I know there's a science to this and I'll look it up later, but just wanted to get someone's opinion on this. I disconnected the vacuum line to the FPR and it jumped from 20 psi to 30 psi and this time when I revved it up it stayed at 30 psi the whole time. Not sure if that vacuum line that hooks up from the FPR to the IM needs needs to be there or not. It just seems to give me a more accurate reading on the FPR gauge with it disconnected

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
The only thing I can think of, as to why your FP is lower using the non-stock fuel injectors and P2R fuel rail, is that they are larger and therefore would require less FP to move fuel via the larger diameters/pathways of the parts?

2ndgentl

You are probably right Zeta, because when I bumped it up to 43 psi it still idled fine until I gave it gas and it wanted to fall in its face. Also, revving it up wasn't as smooth ( could definitely tell it was running too rich ). Those RC racing injectors are 440cc at 43.5 PSI, so at 30 psi I'm assuming they are much closer to the stock injector cc.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
So what's next on your agenda? Are you waiting for those injectors P2R recommended?

2ndgentl

Read my post from 12/17/19 and down to get caught up on everything I've done since you last messaged me on here Zeta so that you can see all of my progress so far

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
Understood.

Just curious, when you talked to Sean at P2R did happen to mention if their 'big tube' headers were available for the CLS6?

2ndgentl

Oh sh#t....i was so caught up on these RC injectors leaking that I didn't even think to talk to Sean about those long tube headers I'll reach back out to him again since we were talking on FB Messenger. Yeah, so I guess im ready to put the SC'er on (pulley belt unhooked) and drive it over to the shop that will be tuning it. I just need to schedule a day that I can be there while it's getting tuned

2ndgentl

I literally had the car ready to drop off to the shop to get it tuned. Supercharger was installed and idling good. Never even left the garage. Never even exceeded over 1000 rpms, just let it idle in the garage and had planned on trailering it to the shop just to be on the safe side. Today when I came home from work I just decided to fire it up in the garage. It idled for about 15 seconds then I heard a loud flapping sound as if a belt came off or broke. Instantly I thought that it had to be the SC'er belt. Turned off the car to have a look and it was still on nice and tight. Confused at this moment I look at both coolant fans to see if maybe the plastic blades were touching something. I couldn't find anything wrong.... So, I cranked the engine over again and this time the starter grinded against the flywheel. Damn, i thought I had fixed that problem a long time ago. Again, I cranked the engine and it fired up but this time I'm hearing loud clinging and clanking noises then the engine stalled. WTF!! I thought maybe the flywheel was hitting the starter gear somehow. I take the starter off....looked fine. I take all spark plugs out after I removed the SC'er because now im really getting worried that it might be something more serious. I put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and start to turn the engine over by hand slowly to inspect every inch of the flywheel ring gear. I get about a quarter turn and the motor locks up.... I knew then it was something internal....BUT WHY!! As I turn the crank counter-clockwise to break it free, I notice as I'm turning it, the timing belt on the cam gears isn't moving. I looked at the timing belt and sure enough it was snapped.... That was a new OEM Honda belt, tensioner, pulley, and water pump. I am lost for words at the moment as my heart sinks into my stomach realizing that the sound I first heard was the timing belt snapping then the valves interfering with the pistons. I don't even know what to say anymore. Someone put a spell on me.... And of course, I am thinking over and over in my head how the hell did the timing belt snap, but I have no answer...my mind is numb as I'm trying to process of doing this all over again with another engine

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

Ugh, if it weren't for bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Having painted just valve covers last weekend I can say I have a hell of an appreciation for the work you're putting in.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hear. Maybe it, the TB, hopped a pulley and just snapped.
With that said, there are a number of low mile J35's in the Tampa / Clearwater area if that's a consideration.
Easy for me to say; however, don't fret, just keep moving forward.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I posted that after seeing page one and not seeing there were other pages.
That is terrible, man...I'm sorry to hear as well!
K24 turbo swap time?

2ndgentl

It sucks....really, it does, but I have to move forward and get this black cloud away from me. I've already researched the j35a3 engines around my area, so I'll be making a few phone calls today and picking one up soon.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
That's the spirit.
Go for the J35 torque! I wonder how much they want for that one at Japanese & European Auto Parts with 72K miles on it?

2ndgentl

Hahaha, that's the one I'm about to call on. The other one with 115k for $400 is also a good buy

2ndgentl

the only thing is I'm having drawbacks about the supercharger. I was happy with the J35a3 with Type-S cams ( but obviously now I know I need to swap the whole j32a2 heads on it with the cams ), but now I'm just thinking of going all motor on a reliable build to achieve somewhere around 300whp. I just know I'm going to worry too much with that supercharger on there and not drive it as hard. I honestly like having an all motor car. I'm just not sure if I can salvage any of my j32a2 heads, so I might have to try to find some good used ones. I won't know until I pull these off. I have one good one from the first engine and hopefully I'll have another good one on the opposite side that I would need from this engine. I'm assuming with the AEM EMS Series 2 that I have I can get it tuned all motor and have it close to 300whp with all my mods. And this way I have less to worry about having a heavy foot. I do have a bunch of j32a2 Pistons, just not sure if it's worth swapping those out in the j35a3. Or do I just put a stock j35a3 and just put all my bolt-ons on it and just leave it alone

2ndgentl

Hahaha, that's what my friend said this morning. Definitely a first of a kind if I swapped a k24 in it

2ndgentl

I just wonder if anyone on here as a j35a3 stock with just bolt-one. I'm just wondering how much of a difference it is to put the j32a2 heads/cams on it. I would really like to see Dyno numbers to compare it to my previous motor

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

is that a 2007 TL-S motor?

2ndgentl

No, original J32a2 Acura CL type S 6-speed engine. The previous one I had was a J35a3 (01 - 02 MDX engine, which I am planning on getting again for my next engine).

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Oh ok...
my car made 303hp on one of those bolt on dynos
3.7 intake and tb, ported runners and intake match...
rv6 pcd j pipe and exhaust and no tune.
It's a TL-S
not sure how helpful that is.

Midnight Mystery

You're doing an awesome job...









Killing every J-Series one at a time!











Keep up the good work, murderer!

2ndgentl

Your car must feel like a beast making 303 whp N/A!
But you have the 3.5 that everybody wants. Always wanted a 07 - 08 TL-S 6-Speed

2ndgentl

Swing by my house and let me drive your car so I can blow it as well. We'll have a J-series explosion party! Don't be a party pooper, invite your friends as well

Hey, there's a big difference between me and everyone else on social media. I'm not afraid to admit when I screw shit up, I learn from it and so does everyone else. This time this situation wasn't my fault. Shit happens when you start screwing with cars, it's happened to everybody, just most people would never admit it.

Midnight Mystery

Just joking about your luck. Maybe we reversed the jinxing!!!!! Hopefully!

Your car is gonna be great one day because of the fact that you never give up!!!!!! Keep it up until one of them is solid! I'll bet you this next engine is the good one!

Heck! Blown engine = more opportunity to learn about the car!

Good job!!! You'll get there, I promise!

2ndgentl

Thanks Midnight Mystery, motivation is what drives a person to keep going, and after this engine that I just installed failing, it's hard to get past that black cloud circling over top my head. But you are right, I just need to keep moving forward and just do it all over again. And if there's anything that I'm getting from all of this, it's definitely experience! Lol I can easily say now at this point I can swap a J-motor with my eyes closed, comfortably laying in my bed. It's just a pain to do all over again while juggling work/life. Sometimes I wish that I wasn't a mechanic and didn't know how to turn wrenches so I can just pay someone else to do all the work, but I'm stubborn and try to do everything myself and learn as I go

zeta

iTrader: (1)

2ndgentl, you should have enough available J32A2 head partsavailable, between all J32A2 engines you have, to salvage a good pair of front and rear heads. Once you are able to assess which heads are the best, it would only be a matter of removing the 'bent valves' and replacing them with good valves from the other heads. It may be best to have a machine shop do an inspection on the heads you choose to make sure valve guides and such are still good. Otherwise, as far as actual available parts, you should not have to spend much money.