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Nice! It looks like you will be listening to the 'whine' of the S/C'er soon.
Just curious, what kind of 'deal' did you get on the AEM EMS 30-6051 when you purchased it?
I'll have to keep a look-out for one.
I actually got an excellent deal on it. Someone in South Carolina had it on his 99 tl/j32a2/6-speed and had it for almost a year when he decided to sell the car. He posted it on Facebook (J-series engines nation) when I had seen it, so I messaged him and asked if he would sell the AEM separate, but he wouldn't. A few weeks passed by and he messaged me back saying that he was having a hard time selling his car so he told me that he would sell me the AEM. We agreed to $600 shipped
Ok, here goes....remove screws from both sides
Now remove from the bottom and slide circuit boards out
Remove 4 screws on top of circuit board to separate the two, but they will still be held together by those pins
Put some surgery gloves on because you're about to perform surgery. Stick finger in between both circuit boards and begin to pry each corner so that the pins come out. Be careful that you don't bend or harm any other pins or electrical components on the boards. TRUST ME, they don't separate easily. You have to put some muscle into it, but don't worry, the circuit boards will not break, they are strong.
I'm still not fully understanding this switch....i feel like I'm trying to crack Da Vinci's code here. If no one here understands this I will contact him tomorrow
Joe, right were you have the black arrow. The '1' dezod is referring to is that solitary '1', on the circuit board at the top. Instead of being verticle '1' it's laying on its side, like this dash ----. Flip that switch, it looks like it has a silver head, toward the solitary '1', if possible.
Then do the same for the JPT2. The "1", on the circuit board, is hidden slightly, in the picture above; but its there, by the black JPT1 switch. Flip that one as you did with the first on. Take a tweezers or a fine forceps, or fine flat head screw driver and nudge those switches over.
Joe, right were you have the black arrow. The '1' dezod is referring to is that solitary '1', on the circuit board at the top. Flip that switch, it looks like it has a silver head, toward the solitary '1', if possible.
Then do the same for the JPT2. The "1", on the circuit board, is hidden slightly, in the picture above; but its there, by the black JPT1 switch. Flip that one as you did with the first on. Take a tweezers or a fine forceps, or fine flat head screw driver and nudge those switches over.
I knew you'd chime in Zeta! So, how you see it in the pic is how I found it. I haven't touched or flipped anything yet. I guess I'm just getting confused because there is no "switch" to flip
I knew you'd chime in with the answer Zeta! So, how you see it in the pic is how I found it. I haven't touched or flipped anything yet.
Those are the two switches he is referring to.
Flip them up, as they are shown in the picture towards the '1's on both switches and that's it.
The switch looks and is shaped like the 'shifter' in your car. There two parts of the switch, the large and the small, it's the small part.
Do it gently, then take pictures and post the result.
This first pic is how it originally comes, pay close attention to JPT2 and JPT1:
The plastic sleeves are jumpers which slide right off, and there are 3 pins. On the circuit board is a "1" stamped next to those pins. The pin closest to the "1" is considered #1 pin, then #2 is the middle pin, then #3 follows to the left. So "MAG" are pins
2-3 while "HALL" is 1-2.
So here is how JPT1 and JPT2 should look like after being set for "HALL" sensors.
Those 'covers' pry up off the 'pin' rather then slide or the visible pin moving.
That one little detail would of been helpful 'covers pry up' then you would not, like I was with a one dimensional picture, looking for something that slides or switches 'on/off' like a dam switch.
So, the only 'mag' switch that remains looks to be JPT4 only.
Those 'covers' pry up off the 'pin' rather then slide or the visible pin moving.
That one little detail would of been helpful 'covers pry up' then you would not, like I was with a one dimensional picture, looking for something that slides or switches 'on/off' like a dam switch.
So, the only 'mag' switch that remains looks to be JPT4 only.
Yeah I agree Zeta, it would have been much easier to mention that those black sleeves (jumpers) just slid right off. He did mention to move the "jumpers" from 2-3 to 1-2 but I didn't know those were jumpers, but it all makes perfect sense now. So yeah, JPT3 and 4 are left alone, not sure what sensor they are for but JPT1 is your crank sensor and JPT2 is your cam sensor which are Hall sensors
I also just noticed that "HALL" and "MAG" are pictured how they look like stamped on the circuit board. So originally it looked like JPT1 was MAG, JPT2 was MAG, JPT3 was HALL, and JPT4 was MAG.
Now after I switched it to supposedly work with my "manual" harness all are "HALL" except JPT4. I'm just curious what sensors JPT3 and JPT4 go to. I'll ask Dezod tomorrow. Also, if you look at post #50 (pic) you'll see another set of 11 jumpers towards the top that you can mess with. I'll leave those up to the engineers. Lol
not sure what sensor they are for but JPT1 is your crank sensor and JPT2 is your cam sensor which are Hall sensors
Somehow they must have something to do with the 'C8--CKP1--A12' and 'C20--TDC1 CAM--A11' wire connections between the 30-6051 and CL harness plug box. Take a look at the schematic in post #6 to see what I mean. Those two wire connections look to be related to the crank and TDC cam sensors.
Also, 2ndgentl if you talk again to Chris from dezod, please ask him what the official descriptive term is for the item circled in red in your picture below. It would be very helpful to understand what that is called exactly.
I also just noticed that "HALL" and "MAG" are pictured how they look like stamped on the circuit board. So originally it looked like JPT1 was MAG, JPT2 was MAG, JPT3 was HALL, and JPT4 was MAG.
Now after I switched it to supposedly work with my "manual" harness all are "HALL" except JPT4. I'm just curious what sensors JPT3 and JPT4 go to. I'll ask Dezod tomorrow. Also, if you look at post #50 (pic) you'll see another set of 11 jumpers towards the top that you can mess with. I'll leave those up to the engineers. Lol
I forgot to add this pic to show what I meant earlier
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I looked at those in your first pictures in post #47; however, from the angle of looking straight down, as shown in the picture, it was difficult to tell, at least for me, if the 'switches' slide or the 'pin' post moved in one direction or the other, like an on/off switch.
Then when you posted the first pic in post #54, from the side, I thought 'I wonder if those 'covers' pull off', hehe.
Never the less, Just for the hell of it, I searched 'high and low' on the internet yesterday for 'ANY' pictures that specifically showed the circuit boards of the 30-6051 and could not find them. Now, from what I can tell, you are the first to document this 'procedure'. I've heard people talk or mention that the 'switches' need to be 'flipped', yada yada yada; however, when it came down to showing what the process involved, there was 'nothing', at least I could not find it. Maybe some one who reads this knows of a youtube video or something that can supplement your work, we'll see. Well done to you 2ndgentl. It was a 'fun ride'.
Somehow they must have something to do with the 'C8--CKP1--A12' and 'C20--TDC1 CAM--A11' wire connections between the 30-6051 and CL harness plug box. Take a look at the schematic in post #6 to see what I mean. Those two wire connections look to be related to the crank and TDC cam sensors.
Also, 2ndgentl if you talk again to Chris from dezod, please ask him what the official descriptive term is for the item circled in red in your picture below. It would be very helpful to understand what that is called exactly.
I will definitely message him later to find out what that box is called, but I'm a little confused on what you are talking about the schematic on Post #6. All I'm seeing on that post is the link for the different size pulleys. Either way I'm just glad that Chris from dezod was able to share this information about switching the AEM 30-6051 to work with the manual harness. I just can't believe it took this long to get this information out on the internet for how easy that was to do. I mean, I'm sure it's out there somewhere but I sure hell couldn't find it
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I looked at those in your first pictures in post #47; however, from the angle of looking straight down, as shown in the picture, it was difficult to tell, at least for me, if the 'switches' slide or the 'pin' post moved in one direction or the other, like an on/off switch.
Then when you posted the first pic in post #54, from the side, I thought 'I wonder if those 'covers' pull off', hehe.
Never the less, Just for the hell of it, I searched 'high and low' on the internet yesterday for 'ANY' pictures that specifically showed the circuit boards of the 30-6051 and could not find them. Now, from what I can tell, you are the first to document this 'procedure'. I've heard people talk or mention that the 'switches' need to be 'flipped', yada yada yada; however, when it came down to showing what the process involved, there was 'nothing', at least I could not find it. Maybe some one who reads this knows of a youtube video or something that can supplement your work, we'll see. Well done to you 2ndgentl. It was a 'fun ride'.
Knowledgeable people like you Zeta are always helping others out on these forums and it is highly appreciated!!! Things can get frustrating really fast if you can't figure it out and can't find any answers online, so this is the least that I can do for everyone that's been trying to figure this out. I will definitely keep posting any information that I think will be useful for people on here. I'll also be asking a lot of questions as well. Lol
2ndgentl, another thing you may want to consider is acquiring, if it's even needed, a 'base map' tune program for your 30-6051 so that you can get you car running and down the road, if you will, to a tuner. Not sure if Chris (bluedc2) or Chris (dezod) can help out with information on that; however, it's something to think about now as 'you get all you ducks in a row'. Just saying.
2ndgentl, another thing you may want to consider is acquiring, if it's even needed, a 'base map' tune program for your 30-6051 so that you can get you car running and down the road, if you will, to a tuner. Not sure if Chris (bluedc2) or Chris (dezod) can help out with information on that; however, it's something to think about now as 'you get all you ducks in a row'. Just saying.
Very good point Zeta, I had that in the back of my mind to install it even before the supercharger. Not sure exactly how it works but the guy that I bought the AEM from said it had a base map tune on it. So I'm assuming that it's stored in the AEM? Either way, I wouldn't mind plugging it in when I get the jumper and familiarizing everything on the laptop. Plus I can have my neighbor explain everything to me that I'm not familiar with
Very good point Zeta, I had that in the back of my mind to install it even before the supercharger. Not sure exactly how it works but the guy that I bought the AEM from said it had a base map tune on it. So I'm assuming that it's stored in the AEM? Either way, I wouldn't mind plugging it in when I get the jumper and familiarizing everything on the laptop. Plus I can have my neighbor explain everything to me that I'm not familiar with
Nice!
Then, outside of receiving a completed dezod harness, you are pretty much ready to go. You know the drill, take plenty of pictures.
It will be interesting to see the 'attention to detail' craftsmanship of that harness.
If you want me to upload better pictures of my harness, I can.
Yeah, that'd be great!
If you have them, post them up. Any detail for this thread, at whatever angles, that shows the wire / connector craftsmanship would be great. Especially, of that CL harness interface. Would you happen to have any info on what the 'official' name or part # is of that box??
If you have them, post them up. Any detail for this thread, at whatever angles, that shows the wire / connector craftsmanship would be great. Especially, of that CL harness interface. Would you happen to have any info on what the 'official' name or part # is of that box??
I will when I get in from work this evening. What box are talking about? The black piece attached to the harness?
Curious, at first glance, it appears that Boomslang uses some kind of 'clear' or 'black' epoxy resin, to somehow secure / hold in place, inside the cavity at the rear of the CL 'interface' box where the green wires enter and it appears to be quite deep. That's what struck my interest as to what that thing is called or its functionality? I thought, perhaps if I could find other pictures, on the internet, they would help explain. Just saying. Thanks again!
2ndgentl, did you determine which size S/C'er shaft pulley that you want to go with?
3.12" Diameter
OR
3.2" Diameter
I'm thinking I should go with the 3.12" for my j35 since bluedc2 got 8 lbs with the 3.2" in a j32. If I went with the 3.2" I'm thinking it will hit 6 - 7 lbs, so I'm hoping the 3.12" will give me 7 - 8 lbs. Your thoughts
I'm thinking I should go with the 3.12" for my j35 since bluedc2 got 8 lbs with the 3.2" in a j32. If I went with the 3.2" I'm thinking it will hit 6 - 7 lbs, so I'm hoping the 3.12" will give me 7 - 8 lbs. Your thoughts
I'm just making noise here, so take it with a 'grain of salt':
I make about 5-5.5 psi, with the 3.275" alt. HBP and 3.8" base S/C'er shaft pulley. I have the J32A2, regular CT-E Icebox and tubing, J32A2 IM, CT-E headers, free flowing XLR8 cat, CT-E 'B' pipe and axle back CT-E mufflers.
Chris (bluedc2) is making 7-8psi on a base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.2" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley. He has the JDM J32A2, from his pictures it looks like his intake tubing is similar sized to the CT-E tubing, it appears he has the J32A2 IM, Aftermarket headers, 3” Highflow cat to 3” Greddy Supreme SP muffler.
Now, IIRC'ly you achieved around 6-7 psi with the base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.33" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley on your J32A2 before it gave up the ghost. You have an even 'freer flowing' intake and exhaust system, then the two of us, when you factor in the large diameter intake pipe, 76mm Blox TB, 09 TL IM, aftermarket headers, deleted cat, and I'm not sure what axle back you have.
Having said all that, as you know, by increasing the rate of spin on the M62 to achieve higher psi levels, you start to push the device closer toward the 'ceiling' of its operational parameters, generating more heat in the process.
You state in the thread title that you want a 7-8 psi pulley; however, you have now a higher displacement J35A3 coupled with that unique 'freeflowing' intake and exhaust system. PSI is bound to get gobbled up because of those two factors. So, the dilemma is, if you go with the 3.12" S/C'er pulley, that choice may give you the measurable 7-8 psi that you want; however, is the M62 S/C'er now spinning at or above its operational parameter ceiling while making a lot more heat?
If you go with the 3.2" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley you may not get the measureable 7-8psi; however, the M62 will not be spinning as fast and thus give you a little more longevity in its mechanical performance because it is still spinning well within its operational parameters. (I'm not sure if it is or not, I'm just saying, maybe)
That's perhaps why, for instance, Karanx7, was thinking about putting an M90 S/C'er on his J35A3. It (the larger M90) has the higher flow that would work better with the larger displacement J35, J36, J37 built engines. Whereas, I believe, the M62 is specced more for 3.0-3.2 displacement engines.
That does not mean you can't run an M62 on your J35, it just means that if you do, you have to remember to 'keep it safe' by not over spinning it while you have your fun. The last thing anyone wants to see, after spending your money on an ems, harness and tuning time, is the M62 now give you problems because it is being taxed at or beyond its operational limits causing it to fail.
I'm just making noise here, so take it with a 'grain of salt':
I make about 5-5.5 psi, with the 3.275" alt. HBP and 3.8" base S/C'er shaft pulley. I have the J32A2, regular CT-E Icebox and tubing, J32A2 IM, CT-E headers, free flowing XLR8 cat, CT-E 'B' pipe and axle back CT-E mufflers.
Chris (bluedc2) is making 7-8psi on a base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.2" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley. He has the JDM J32A2, from his pictures it looks like his intake tubing is similar sized to the CT-E tubing, it appears he has the J32A2 IM, Aftermarket headers, 3” Highflow cat to 3” Greddy Supreme SP muffler.
Now, IIRC'ly you achieved around 6-7 psi with the base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.33" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley on your J32A2 before it gave up the ghost. You have an even 'freer flowing' intake and exhaust system, then the two of us, when you factor in the large diameter intake pipe, 76mm Blox TB, 09 TL IM, aftermarket headers, deleted cat, and I'm not sure what axle back you have.
Having said all that, as you know, by increasing the rate of spin on the M62 to achieve higher psi levels, you start to push the device closer toward the 'ceiling' of its operational parameters, generating more heat in the process.
You state in the thread title that you want a 7-8 psi pulley; however, you have now a higher displacement J35A3 coupled with that unique 'freeflowing' intake and exhaust system. PSI is bound to get gobbled up because of those two factors. So, the dilemma is, if you go with the 3.12" S/C'er pulley, that choice may give you the measurable 7-8 psi that you want; however, is the M62 S/C'er now spinning at or above its operational parameter ceiling while making a lot more heat?
If you go with the 3.2" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley you may not get the measureable 7-8psi; however, the M62 will not be spinning as fast and thus give you a little more longevity in its mechanical performance because it is still spinning well within its operational parameters. (I'm not sure if it is or not, I'm just saying, maybe)
That's perhaps why, for instance, Karanx7, was thinking about putting an M90 S/C'er on his J35A3. It (the larger M90) has the higher flow that would work better with the larger displacement J35, J36, J37 built engines. Whereas, I believe, the M62 is specced more for 3.0-3.2 displacement engines.
That does not mean you can't run an M62 on your J35, it just means that if you do, you have to remember to 'keep it safe' by not over spinning it while you have your fun. The last thing anyone wants to see, after spending your money on an ems, harness and tuning time, is the M62 now give you problems because it is being taxed at or beyond its operational limits causing it to fail.
Excellent write-up Zeta! Now you definitely have my mind spinning in circles. Lol Ok, so my previous motor (j32a2) with the S/C was producing 4 - 5 psi (3" alt. pulley/ 3.33" S/C pulley). The only difference now is that I have a j35a3 with my type-S cams, everything else (bolt-ons) are exactly the same (just transferred everything over to the j35a3). This being said, maybe my best bet is to put the S/C back on the way it is without changing the pulley and see how much boost it produces (with the 3.33" hbp) then that'll give me a better idea on what pulley I need to achieve 7 - 8 psi. I can probably do this without getting a tune or installing the AEM EMS (obviously floor it just a couple times) just to see how much boost it reads on my gauge. I would think this would be safe enough knowing that my j32a2 lasted almost 2 months without a tune, and it should be safer on the j35a3 since I'm assuming it won't produce as much psi
Now, IIRC'ly you achieved around 6-7 psi with the base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.33" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley on your J32A2 before it gave up the ghost. You have an even 'freer flowing' intake and exhaust system, then the two of us, when you factor in the large diameter intake pipe, 76mm Blox TB, 09 TL IM, aftermarket headers, deleted cat, and I'm not sure what axle back you have.
My mods: 4" intake tube, 76mm BLOX TB, 09 TL IM, Ridgeline spacer, P2R IM thermal gaskets, LW PS pulley, LW crank pulley, ported runners, LW flywheel, CT headers, 2.75" exhaust (no cat, no pre-muffler), CT mufflers
Excellent write-up Zeta! Now you definitely have my mind spinning in circles. Lol Ok, so my previous motor (j32a2) with the S/C was producing 4 - 5 psi (3" alt. pulley/ 3.33" S/C pulley). The only difference now is that I have a j35a3 with my type-S cams, everything else (bolt-ons) are exactly the same (just transferred everything over to the j35a3). This being said, maybe my best bet is to put the S/C back on the way it is without changing the pulley and see how much boost it produces (with the 3.33" hbp) then that'll give me a better idea on what pulley I need to achieve 7 - 8 psi. I can probably do this without getting a tune or installing the AEM EMS (obviously floor it just a couple times) just to see how much boost it reads on my gauge. I would think this would be safe enough knowing that my j32a2 lasted almost 2 months without a tune, and it should be safer on the j35a3 since I'm assuming it won't produce as much psi
That is an alternative. If you still have the CT-E black box voltage clamp on, than you should not throw any codes under boost.
In short, all I'm saying is the last time, when your J32A2 resulted in a melted piston, it was most likely because of the 'weak link' of not having a proper tune. You had a strong J32, supporting mods and an M62 that was specced for the displacement on the car.
This time around, you will have a strong J35A3 with all of your same supporting mods and a tune. The 'potential' weak link can now shift to the M62, mechanically, if you make it work harder, by spinning it faster then it was built to spin, over the long term, in your pursuit of more power.
You just have to try and manage the new variables outside of a proper tune now. Those would be keeping the M62 'happy and healthy' by not 'over spinning' it beyond what it was built for in the pursuit of psi and any increased intake air temps.
It's very probable that you will 'feel' a bump in power after you install the blower on your J35A3, and even more with a tune on the 3.0 base alt pulley and 3.33HBP shaft pulley. Like you said above, then if you want to go 'one more' bump up, you could than experiment with the 3.2" HBP shaft pulley and see how that feels. Moreover, by that time, depending on who you select to tune the car the first time around, you will have established a relationship with that individual and he can advise you a whole hell of a lot better than I on whether it's worth going any higher, in psi, or not. It's all up to you.
Maybe taking safer baby steps at first would be best on what you currently have with a proper tune, then after you are used to that, you can bump it up to a 'brisk walk' or 'full run', in the future, if you get what I'm saying.
That is an alternative. If you still have the CT-E black box voltage clamp on, than you should not throw any codes under boost.
In short, all I'm saying is the last time, when your J32A2 resulted in a melted piston, it was most likely because of the 'weak link' of not having a proper tune. You had a strong J32, supporting mods and an M62 that was specced for the displacement on the car.
This time around, you will have a strong J35A3 with all of your same supporting mods and a tune. The 'potential' weak link can now shift to the M62, mechanically, if you make it work harder, by spinning it faster then it was built to spin, over the long term, in your pursuit of more power.
You just have to try and manage the new variables outside of a proper tune now. Those would be keeping the M62 'happy and healthy' by not 'over spinning' it beyond what it was built for in the pursuit of psi and any increased intake air temps.
It's very probable that you will 'feel' a bump in power after you install the blower on your J35A3, and even more with a tune on the 3.0 base alt pulley and 3.33HBP shaft pulley. Like you said above, then if you want to go 'one more' bump up, you could than experiment with the 3.2" HBP shaft pulley and see how that feels. Moreover, by that time, depending on who you select to tune the car the first time around, you will have established a relationship with that individual and he can advise you a whole hell of a lot better than I on whether it's worth going any higher, in psi, or not. It's all up to you.
Maybe taking safer baby steps at first would be best on what you currently have with a proper tune, then after you are used to that, you can bump it up to a 'brisk walk' or 'full run', in the future, if you get what I'm saying.
I took that CT black voltage box off but just added cannon plug male/female ends on the black box and harness wires so that I could easily attach it back on again (I also have a diagram how to install it, it's easy). I really think I should just make one run with the S/C to see how much psi it produces then make a smart decision from there on what size pulley to use. The only thing that's in the back of my mind is how strong is this junkyard sitting for 5+ years j35a3 internally?!! I mean, it's been running great for me for over a year and I've had it WOT hundreds of times already, so it should be fine for 1 un-tuned run with the S/C to check psi.
I took that CT black voltage box off but just added cannon plug male/female ends on the black box and harness wires so that I could easily attach it back on again (I also have a diagram how to install it, it's easy). I really think I should just make one run with the S/C to see how much psi it produces then make a smart decision from there on what size pulley to use. The only thing that's in the back of my mind is how strong is this junkyard sitting for 5+ years j35a3 internally?!! I mean, it's been running great for me for over a year and I've had it WOT hundreds of times already, so it should be fine for 1 un-tuned run with the S/C to check psi.
Yes, that sounds like the best way for you to make your decision.
In the mean time, if possible, as your busy schedule permits, put a short one to three short list of local Honda/Acura tuners together. Give them a call or visit them to get a feel if they will be right for your project.
Once again, as time permits, put the blower and CT black box on, get it buttoned up, running and ready, do your testing, order the pulley you'll be happy with. Install that pulley, give it another quick test, remove the CT black box and install the AEM EMS 30-6051 and harness and head to the tuner you select.
Looking forward to see what kind of whp numbers you achieve.
12-16-2018, 02:11 PM
Maybe some one who reads this knows of a youtube video or something that can supplement your work, we'll see. Well done to you 2ndgentl. It was a 'fun ride'. 
