7 - 8 lb S/C Pulley
12-19-2018, 06:28 AM
#81
Instructor
Yes, that sounds like the best way for you to make your decision. 
In the mean time, if possible, as your busy schedule permits, put a short one to three short list of local Honda/Acura tuners together. Give them a call or visit them to get a feel if they will be right for your project.
Once again, as time permits, put the blower and CT black box on, get it buttoned up, running and ready, do your testing, order the pulley you'll be happy with. Install that pulley, give it another quick test, remove the CT black box and install the AEM EMS 30-6051 and harness and head to the tuner you select.
Looking forward to see what kind of whp numbers you achieve.
In the mean time, if possible, as your busy schedule permits, put a short one to three short list of local Honda/Acura tuners together. Give them a call or visit them to get a feel if they will be right for your project.
Once again, as time permits, put the blower and CT black box on, get it buttoned up, running and ready, do your testing, order the pulley you'll be happy with. Install that pulley, give it another quick test, remove the CT black box and install the AEM EMS 30-6051 and harness and head to the tuner you select.
Looking forward to see what kind of whp numbers you achieve.
Yes, sir picking the right tuner is crucial! I went to two different tuners. The first one had no idea what the hell he was doing the second guy Howard at RLZ Tuning here in Charlotte has been tuning for years and I haven't had one problem with my CL. I get my car retuned when the weather changes though just to be on the safe side. It was tuned for colder weather a month ago and when it get's warm again she'll be back on the dyno making sure everything is copasetic (adding meth to).
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zeta (12-19-2018)
12-19-2018, 06:32 AM
#82
Instructor
Remember the previous owner of my CL had a J35 in the car with the supercharger and with the shaft pulley both the J35 and J32 made the same amount of boost with the same pulley.
12-19-2018, 06:38 AM
#83
Instructor
I'm just making noise here, so take it with a 'grain of salt':
I make about 5-5.5 psi, with the 3.275" alt. HBP and 3.8" base S/C'er shaft pulley. I have the J32A2, regular CT-E Icebox and tubing, J32A2 IM, CT-E headers, free flowing XLR8 cat, CT-E 'B' pipe and axle back CT-E mufflers.
Chris (bluedc2) is making 7-8psi on a base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.2" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley. He has the JDM J32A2, from his pictures it looks like his intake tubing is similar sized to the CT-E tubing, it appears he has the J32A2 IM, Aftermarket headers, 3” Highflow cat to 3” Greddy Supreme SP muffler.
Now, IIRC'ly you achieved around 6-7 psi with the base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.33" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley on your J32A2 before it gave up the ghost. You have an even 'freer flowing' intake and exhaust system, then the two of us, when you factor in the large diameter intake pipe, 76mm Blox TB, 09 TL IM, aftermarket headers, deleted cat, and I'm not sure what axle back you have.
Having said all that, as you know, by increasing the rate of spin on the M62 to achieve higher psi levels, you start to push the device closer toward the 'ceiling' of its operational parameters, generating more heat in the process.
You state in the thread title that you want a 7-8 psi pulley; however, you have now a higher displacement J35A3 coupled with that unique 'freeflowing' intake and exhaust system. PSI is bound to get gobbled up because of those two factors. So, the dilemma is, if you go with the 3.12" S/C'er pulley, that choice may give you the measurable 7-8 psi that you want; however, is the M62 S/C'er now spinning at or above its operational parameter ceiling while making a lot more heat?
If you go with the 3.2" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley you may not get the measureable 7-8psi; however, the M62 will not be spinning as fast and thus give you a little more longevity in its mechanical performance because it is still spinning well within its operational parameters. (I'm not sure if it is or not, I'm just saying, maybe)
That's perhaps why, for instance, Karanx7, was thinking about putting an M90 S/C'er on his J35A3. It (the larger M90) has the higher flow that would work better with the larger displacement J35, J36, J37 built engines. Whereas, I believe, the M62 is specced more for 3.0-3.2 displacement engines.
That does not mean you can't run an M62 on your J35, it just means that if you do, you have to remember to 'keep it safe' by not over spinning it while you have your fun. The last thing anyone wants to see, after spending your money on an ems, harness and tuning time, is the M62 now give you problems because it is being taxed at or beyond its operational limits causing it to fail.
I make about 5-5.5 psi, with the 3.275" alt. HBP and 3.8" base S/C'er shaft pulley. I have the J32A2, regular CT-E Icebox and tubing, J32A2 IM, CT-E headers, free flowing XLR8 cat, CT-E 'B' pipe and axle back CT-E mufflers.
Chris (bluedc2) is making 7-8psi on a base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.2" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley. He has the JDM J32A2, from his pictures it looks like his intake tubing is similar sized to the CT-E tubing, it appears he has the J32A2 IM, Aftermarket headers, 3” Highflow cat to 3” Greddy Supreme SP muffler.
Now, IIRC'ly you achieved around 6-7 psi with the base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.33" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley on your J32A2 before it gave up the ghost. You have an even 'freer flowing' intake and exhaust system, then the two of us, when you factor in the large diameter intake pipe, 76mm Blox TB, 09 TL IM, aftermarket headers, deleted cat, and I'm not sure what axle back you have.
Having said all that, as you know, by increasing the rate of spin on the M62 to achieve higher psi levels, you start to push the device closer toward the 'ceiling' of its operational parameters, generating more heat in the process.
You state in the thread title that you want a 7-8 psi pulley; however, you have now a higher displacement J35A3 coupled with that unique 'freeflowing' intake and exhaust system. PSI is bound to get gobbled up because of those two factors. So, the dilemma is, if you go with the 3.12" S/C'er pulley, that choice may give you the measurable 7-8 psi that you want; however, is the M62 S/C'er now spinning at or above its operational parameter ceiling while making a lot more heat?
If you go with the 3.2" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley you may not get the measureable 7-8psi; however, the M62 will not be spinning as fast and thus give you a little more longevity in its mechanical performance because it is still spinning well within its operational parameters. (I'm not sure if it is or not, I'm just saying, maybe)
That's perhaps why, for instance, Karanx7, was thinking about putting an M90 S/C'er on his J35A3. It (the larger M90) has the higher flow that would work better with the larger displacement J35, J36, J37 built engines. Whereas, I believe, the M62 is specced more for 3.0-3.2 displacement engines.
That does not mean you can't run an M62 on your J35, it just means that if you do, you have to remember to 'keep it safe' by not over spinning it while you have your fun.
The last thing anyone wants to see, after spending your money on an ems, harness and tuning time, is the M62 now give you problems because it is being taxed at or beyond its operational limits causing it to fail. Chris (bluedc2) is making 7-8psi on a base 3.0" alt. pulley and 3.2" HBP S/C'er shaft pulley. He has the JDM J32A2, from his pictures it looks like his intake tubing is similar sized to the CT-E tubing, it appears he has the J32A2 IM, Aftermarket headers, 3” Highflow cat to 3” Greddy Supreme SP muffler.
^
That is correct, I also have 550cc Bosch Injectors, Aer motive fuel pressure regular ( rising rate one sucks!)
12-19-2018, 09:50 AM
#84
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
See, that's what I find so intriquing.
These differences in psi with these various combinations of pulley's. You had the 3.0" alt. pulley coupled with the 3.6" shaft pulley and you managed between 5psi, spiking to 7.That's why, in my above posts, I was contemplating that, in 2ndgentl's case, with his 'freer flowing' intake and cat delete exhaust, he is actually making more psi; however, somehow it is getting reduced because of his 'freer flowing' (added volume??) set-up.
Which leads me back to Marcelechka's post below:3.12" is pushing it.
Terry from SFLP recommended making me the 3.2" pulley based on my configuration at the time. Had to gain what was lost due to plumbing... 3.275" alt + 3.2" blower shaft will net 10 to 12lbs without an intercooler.
As mentioned before, you'll need bigger injectors & a method to tune.
Heat soak will also be an issue (specially in FL) as the blower is operating well beyond it's efficiency range to be effective.
Terry from SFLP recommended making me the 3.2" pulley based on my configuration at the time. Had to gain what was lost due to plumbing... 3.275" alt + 3.2" blower shaft will net 10 to 12lbs without an intercooler.
As mentioned before, you'll need bigger injectors & a method to tune.
Heat soak will also be an issue (specially in FL) as the blower is operating well beyond it's efficiency range to be effective.
I don't know, 
I wish I knew more, oh well.
Last edited by zeta; 12-19-2018 at 09:59 AM.
12-19-2018, 11:38 AM
#85
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Ok, I knew I read it somewhere; however, I just could not recall where. So, here is a 'little' more to add to the confusion. Whether it's worth sweating about, I'm not sure; however, I'm assuming this guy knows his 'stuff'. IIRC'ly he was some type of engineer.
The quote below is from the guy who, back in the day, did all kinds of experiments with the CT-E S/C'er kit when it first came out. He basically states that the M62 is 'turning at...the...manufacturers limits' when utilizing the 3.275" alt. pulley and a 3.33" S/C'er shaft pulley, at least that what I'm interpreting.
So, with you two guys, 2ndgentl and bluedc2, by running the smaller base 3.0" alt pulley with your 3.33" and 3.2" S/C'er pulley's, respectively, your blower units maybe just below, at the limit or just over the manufacturers limits
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...st-one-456099/
The quote below is from the guy who, back in the day, did all kinds of experiments with the CT-E S/C'er kit when it first came out. He basically states that the M62 is 'turning at...the...manufacturers limits' when utilizing the 3.275" alt. pulley and a 3.33" S/C'er shaft pulley, at least that what I'm interpreting.
So, with you two guys, 2ndgentl and bluedc2, by running the smaller base 3.0" alt pulley with your 3.33" and 3.2" S/C'er pulley's, respectively, your blower units maybe just below, at the limit or just over the manufacturers limits
I just received the 3.3 inch SC pulley today and installed it tonight. I haven’t taken it for a drive due other matters I needed to attend to. But it went on fine and is still utilizing the standard SC belt.
Remember, this is being used in conjunction with the Comptech 3.275 inch HBP alternator pulley.
This is probably the last pulley we can go to due to clearance. There is less than a quarter inch between the tensioner pulley and the alternator pulley now. Considering the belt takes up half that room there is no room to go further.
We'll see tomorrow if it is holding tight. But since the belt now wraps more of the SC and alternator pulley, I suspect it should hold fine.
This should yield a peak boost around 8.5 PSI with a average of about 8 PSI. I have already accounted for this in the e-Manage by increasing the pulse width linearly according to boost. If my wide band A/F monitor reads lean I will add in some more pulse width. This is through the IC and should be yielding some serious power. I am being cautious though and I would not be attempting this without knowing the A/F ratio or EGT reading at a minimum.
The next plan is to lower the fuel pressure to safer levels and see how much pulse width is needed. I am pretty much sure that larger injectors will be needed which will be the next step. But after that, there is no more room for this blower. It will be turning at a manufacturers limits and the efficiency will be dropping off. If more power is desired it can only be reasonably achieved through a difficult and possibly costly migration to the Eaton/Magnuson MP90 blower. IMO, if even more power is desired we should be going to allmotor_2000's turbo kit.
Pics of the pulleys are below. The one on the left is the base SC pulley which with the HBP and IC generated about 5.5 PSI mean. The middle one is the last pulley which with the same set up made about 7.0 PSI boost mean. The right one should generate about 8.0 PSI mean on the same set up.
Remember, this is being used in conjunction with the Comptech 3.275 inch HBP alternator pulley.
This is probably the last pulley we can go to due to clearance. There is less than a quarter inch between the tensioner pulley and the alternator pulley now. Considering the belt takes up half that room there is no room to go further.
We'll see tomorrow if it is holding tight. But since the belt now wraps more of the SC and alternator pulley, I suspect it should hold fine.
This should yield a peak boost around 8.5 PSI with a average of about 8 PSI. I have already accounted for this in the e-Manage by increasing the pulse width linearly according to boost. If my wide band A/F monitor reads lean I will add in some more pulse width. This is through the IC and should be yielding some serious power. I am being cautious though and I would not be attempting this without knowing the A/F ratio or EGT reading at a minimum.
The next plan is to lower the fuel pressure to safer levels and see how much pulse width is needed. I am pretty much sure that larger injectors will be needed which will be the next step. But after that, there is no more room for this blower. It will be turning at a manufacturers limits and the efficiency will be dropping off. If more power is desired it can only be reasonably achieved through a difficult and possibly costly migration to the Eaton/Magnuson MP90 blower. IMO, if even more power is desired we should be going to allmotor_2000's turbo kit.
Pics of the pulleys are below. The one on the left is the base SC pulley which with the HBP and IC generated about 5.5 PSI mean. The middle one is the last pulley which with the same set up made about 7.0 PSI boost mean. The right one should generate about 8.0 PSI mean on the same set up.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...st-one-456099/
12-19-2018, 04:32 PM
#86
Instructor
My old shaft pulley was 3.5” as pictured. What is considered a standard alternator pulley? I’m thinking I just have a stock alternator pulley on my car.
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zeta (12-19-2018)
12-19-2018, 06:05 PM
#87
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The standard S/C'er shaft pulley was listed as 4", lip to lip, on the S/C'er parts checklist; however, though I believe its true measurement was more like 3.8"
The base 3.0" alt. pulley that came 'standard' with the kit, back in the day, was made of steel and noticeably heavy in the hand when held and had a 'shiny' appearance.
The HBP 3.275" alt pulley was made of aluminum and anodized black and very light when held in the hand. CT-E sold it separately on their website, IIRC'ly, for like $90-100. I took a quick measurement of the one on my car and it was 3.5" lip to lip.
Last edited by zeta; 12-19-2018 at 06:19 PM.
12-19-2018, 06:22 PM
#88
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
From reading the thread below, it appears that the OP received it from Comptech to test.
In the picture above, it looks to me that it may have been initially made of steel?
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pulley-436647/
From reading the thread below, it appears that the OP received it from Comptech to test.
In the picture above, it looks to me that it may have been initially made of steel?
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pulley-436647/
12-21-2018, 10:20 AM
#89
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was just thinking about after everything is all set and done with the installation of my supercharger and tune I might change my license plate from "CLS 6SPD" to "CL LATER" 
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teh CL (03-02-2019)
12-21-2018, 01:41 PM
#91
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Don't sell yourself short. Wait until you get it buttoned up and tuned. Besides, half the fun is when some overconfident sh!t talking loud mouth comes up to you, with his/her modern DBW paddle shifter, and then gets the surprise of their life. Especially, from a 16+ year old cable TB manual shifter. Mind you, you have to make sure to keep the car classification on as equal a basis a possible and preferably start from a 20mph roll.
12-27-2018, 10:15 PM
#92
Wow I missed a lot of stuff in this thread. Quickly caught up. Glad to see we got some details on switching the EMS box to manual sensors.
For the SC pulley sizes, don't make the mistake of thinking in PSI. Like Zeta said, spinning the M62 faster might not be better. Even if we pretend the M62 was capable of reliably spinning at infinite rpm, it would generate enough heat to actually decrease overall power at higher boost. That's why it's better to think in HP rather than boost. Your max horsepower will occur at a little lower PSI than the guys with 3.2L engines. The CT kit doesn't have an intercooler, and pushing the M62 to make 8+ psi will require timing retard which might negate the HP gains.
Your biggest challenge will be managing intake air temperatures. I would get 1 step colder plugs than the CT kit came with (2 steps colder than stock). Your motor will handle the power with no issues, but there are 2 reasons for engine failure. You might lean out, which can kill cars running stock ECUs (not a problem since you have the EMS). So the only problem you have to deal with is detonation. You can research safe boost levels without intercoolers, and some people will recommend no more than 3 psi. I don't think you'll have a problem with 5-6psi, but 7-8psi on the J35 is pushing it.
For the tune, I can give you mine. It works well, and I can leave O2 feedback on so it will self adjust until you get it professionally tuned. Honestly though, AEM's J32 base map is not bad at all. Remember you will have to calibrate your O2 sensor (I would use an AEM wideband), as each one will be different regardless of tune. There's like an 11 part video guide on using AEMTuner on YouTube which will teach you how to tune your car perfectly.
For the SC pulley sizes, don't make the mistake of thinking in PSI. Like Zeta said, spinning the M62 faster might not be better. Even if we pretend the M62 was capable of reliably spinning at infinite rpm, it would generate enough heat to actually decrease overall power at higher boost. That's why it's better to think in HP rather than boost. Your max horsepower will occur at a little lower PSI than the guys with 3.2L engines. The CT kit doesn't have an intercooler, and pushing the M62 to make 8+ psi will require timing retard which might negate the HP gains.
Your biggest challenge will be managing intake air temperatures. I would get 1 step colder plugs than the CT kit came with (2 steps colder than stock). Your motor will handle the power with no issues, but there are 2 reasons for engine failure. You might lean out, which can kill cars running stock ECUs (not a problem since you have the EMS). So the only problem you have to deal with is detonation. You can research safe boost levels without intercoolers, and some people will recommend no more than 3 psi. I don't think you'll have a problem with 5-6psi, but 7-8psi on the J35 is pushing it.
For the tune, I can give you mine. It works well, and I can leave O2 feedback on so it will self adjust until you get it professionally tuned. Honestly though, AEM's J32 base map is not bad at all. Remember you will have to calibrate your O2 sensor (I would use an AEM wideband), as each one will be different regardless of tune. There's like an 11 part video guide on using AEMTuner on YouTube which will teach you how to tune your car perfectly.
12-29-2018, 11:17 AM
#93
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
2ndgentl, have you received your new harness from Chris (dezod)?
If so, post up some pictures when time permits.
If so, post up some pictures when time permits.
12-29-2018, 11:51 AM
#94
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Wow I missed a lot of stuff in this thread. Quickly caught up. Glad to see we got some details on switching the EMS box to manual sensors.
For the SC pulley sizes, don't make the mistake of thinking in PSI. Like Zeta said, spinning the M62 faster might not be better. Even if we pretend the M62 was capable of reliably spinning at infinite rpm, it would generate enough heat to actually decrease overall power at higher boost. That's why it's better to think in HP rather than boost. Your max horsepower will occur at a little lower PSI than the guys with 3.2L engines. The CT kit doesn't have an intercooler, and pushing the M62 to make 8+ psi will require timing retard which might negate the HP gains.
Your biggest challenge will be managing intake air temperatures. I would get 1 step colder plugs than the CT kit came with (2 steps colder than stock). Your motor will handle the power with no issues, but there are 2 reasons for engine failure. You might lean out, which can kill cars running stock ECUs (not a problem since you have the EMS). So the only problem you have to deal with is detonation. You can research safe boost levels without intercoolers, and some people will recommend no more than 3 psi. I don't think you'll have a problem with 5-6psi, but 7-8psi on the J35 is pushing it.
For the tune, I can give you mine. It works well, and I can leave O2 feedback on so it will self adjust until you get it professionally tuned. Honestly though, AEM's J32 base map is not bad at all. Remember you will have to calibrate your O2 sensor (I would use an AEM wideband), as each one will be different regardless of tune. There's like an 11 part video guide on using AEMTuner on YouTube which will teach you how to tune your car perfectly.
For the SC pulley sizes, don't make the mistake of thinking in PSI. Like Zeta said, spinning the M62 faster might not be better. Even if we pretend the M62 was capable of reliably spinning at infinite rpm, it would generate enough heat to actually decrease overall power at higher boost. That's why it's better to think in HP rather than boost. Your max horsepower will occur at a little lower PSI than the guys with 3.2L engines. The CT kit doesn't have an intercooler, and pushing the M62 to make 8+ psi will require timing retard which might negate the HP gains.
Your biggest challenge will be managing intake air temperatures. I would get 1 step colder plugs than the CT kit came with (2 steps colder than stock). Your motor will handle the power with no issues, but there are 2 reasons for engine failure. You might lean out, which can kill cars running stock ECUs (not a problem since you have the EMS). So the only problem you have to deal with is detonation. You can research safe boost levels without intercoolers, and some people will recommend no more than 3 psi. I don't think you'll have a problem with 5-6psi, but 7-8psi on the J35 is pushing it.
For the tune, I can give you mine. It works well, and I can leave O2 feedback on so it will self adjust until you get it professionally tuned. Honestly though, AEM's J32 base map is not bad at all. Remember you will have to calibrate your O2 sensor (I would use an AEM wideband), as each one will be different regardless of tune. There's like an 11 part video guide on using AEMTuner on YouTube which will teach you how to tune your car perfectly.
12-29-2018, 11:54 AM
#95
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Dezod messaged me yesterday telling me that it should be ready next week sometime. I know everyone has been busy with the holidays, but I'll let you know as soon as I get it and I'll take lots of pics. I haven't had much time myself to mess with my car with family over, it's been pretty crazy over here. Inlaws....lol
12-29-2018, 12:08 PM
#96
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Dezod messaged me yesterday telling me that it should be ready next week sometime. I know everyone has been busy with the holidays, but I'll let you know as soon as I get it and I'll take lots of pics. I haven't had much time myself to mess with my car with family over, it's been pretty crazy over here. Inlaws....lol
Hey, BTW, there is a guy, InspireJ32A, that could use your help, if possible, over in your thread below regarding his B-series Throttle Body mods. Since you are the only active forum member running something similar, I thought you may be able to give some insight into what he is experiencing. When time permits, check it out:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p.../#post16355064
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InspireJ32A (11-21-2019)
12-29-2018, 06:32 PM
#97
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I understand totally and thanks for the response.
Hey, BTW, there is a guy, InspireJ32A, that could use your help, if possible, over in your thread below regarding his B-series Throttle Body mods. Since you are the only active forum member running something similar, I thought you may be able to give some insight into what he is experiencing. When time permits, check it out:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p.../#post16355064
Hey, BTW, there is a guy, InspireJ32A, that could use your help, if possible, over in your thread below regarding his B-series Throttle Body mods. Since you are the only active forum member running something similar, I thought you may be able to give some insight into what he is experiencing. When time permits, check it out:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p.../#post16355064
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zeta (12-29-2018)
01-15-2019, 04:47 PM
#98
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Dezod messaged me yesterday telling me that it should be ready next week sometime. I know everyone has been busy with the holidays, but I'll let you know as soon as I get it and I'll take lots of pics. I haven't had much time myself to mess with my car with family over, it's been pretty crazy over here. Inlaws....lol
01-15-2019, 10:08 PM
#99
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
01-16-2019, 06:34 AM
#100
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
You may have to initiate one last communication attempt to see 'WTF' is going on before getting PayPal involved, just to be safe? Sorry to say.
01-16-2019, 07:11 AM
#101
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yeah, I hate having to message him every so often for the same thing but I am out $800 and it's been at least a month. I'll try messaging him again today and see what he says.
01-16-2019, 05:41 PM
#102
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I talked to Chris today and he said that they should be done with it within 48 hours but he said that they need to test it as well. He said that they've been slammed with work but I told him it's okay and to just take their time on it to make sure that it's done right.
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zeta (01-16-2019)
01-16-2019, 06:43 PM
#103
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Btw, I had to send my S/C'er in for inspection/service this past week. I'm waiting on the diagnosis.
In mid Dec. my DieHard 51R battery gave up the ghost and replaced it with a WallyWorld 51R. When I removed the throttle body to make room to slip the DieHard out and new battery in, I noticed a 'pooling' of oil at the connection of the TB elbow. I was like, WTF. I then started to feel around the aluminum manifold that connects to the lower blower that leads to the IM elbow and found more 'leakage'. Yanked the S/C'er out, sure enough, more oil accumulation pooling at the bottom.
My only deduction is that it is oil from the reservoir somehow seeping past the rotor seals into the rotor housing. So, off I sent it to the guy who rebuilt it in Dec. 2015.
I won't officially know what's 'going on' until I have his inspection report. I'm hoping any damage they find won't be to extensive, though I'm not sure at this point.
01-17-2019, 06:27 AM
#104
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Nice!
Btw, I had to send my S/C'er in for inspection/service this past week. I'm waiting on the diagnosis.
In mid Dec. my DieHard 51R battery gave up the ghost and replaced it with a WallyWorld 51R. When I removed the throttle body to make room to slip the DieHard out and new battery in, I noticed a 'pooling' of oil at the connection of the TB elbow. I was like, WTF. I then started to feel around the aluminum manifold that connects to the lower blower that leads to the IM elbow and found more 'leakage'. Yanked the S/C'er out, sure enough, more oil accumulation pooling at the bottom. My only deduction is that it is oil from the reservoir somehow seeping past the rotor seals into the rotor housing. So, off I sent it to the guy who rebuilt it in Dec. 2015. I won't officially know what's 'going on' until I have his inspection report. I'm hoping any damage they find won't be to extensive, though I'm not sure at this point.
Btw, I had to send my S/C'er in for inspection/service this past week. I'm waiting on the diagnosis.
In mid Dec. my DieHard 51R battery gave up the ghost and replaced it with a WallyWorld 51R. When I removed the throttle body to make room to slip the DieHard out and new battery in, I noticed a 'pooling' of oil at the connection of the TB elbow. I was like, WTF. I then started to feel around the aluminum manifold that connects to the lower blower that leads to the IM elbow and found more 'leakage'. Yanked the S/C'er out, sure enough, more oil accumulation pooling at the bottom.
My only deduction is that it is oil from the reservoir somehow seeping past the rotor seals into the rotor housing. So, off I sent it to the guy who rebuilt it in Dec. 2015. I won't officially know what's 'going on' until I have his inspection report. I'm hoping any damage they find won't be to extensive, though I'm not sure at this point.
01-17-2019, 06:54 AM
#105
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
https://jonbondperformance.com/index...products_id=35
The seals are located behind the bearings located behind these gears in the 'Front bearing plate' of the blower:
I suspect the reservoir oil was seeping past the seals, over the last three years, to coat the rotors (below in the rotor housing) and accumulate in the lower manifold that leads to the IM elbow. The oil also made its way to the TB inlet and pooled at the connection where the TB connects to the blower.
01-18-2019, 01:55 PM
#106
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Hey, 2ndgentl, just thought you may be interested.
Here is some information I stumbled onto regarding the importance on not spinning the MP62 past its maximum rated RPM with smaller pulleys.
This is coming from the rebuilder on his facebook page and what he was seeing when they came into his shop:
Here is some information I stumbled onto regarding the importance on not spinning the MP62 past its maximum rated RPM with smaller pulleys.
This is coming from the rebuilder on his facebook page and what he was seeing when they came into his shop:
Facebook Post
Last edited by zeta; 01-18-2019 at 01:57 PM.
01-18-2019, 10:37 PM
#107
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Wow, thanks Zeta for all that great information! I think I'll be happy sticking with the same 5 lb pulley (3.33" hbp) that I have. Tuned properly it'll make a good amount of hp/tq and it's not overly stressing the S/C or the engine, but now I'm a little worried about the S/C seals since it's been sitting in the garage on a shelf for over a year now. I guess the only thing I can do is change the fluid in the S/C and hope I don't have any leaks for a while. I'm just patiently waiting on that harness...
01-18-2019, 11:06 PM
#108
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Wow, thanks Zeta for all that great information! I think I'll be happy sticking with the same 5 lb pulley (3.33" hbp) that I have. Tuned properly it'll make a good amount of hp/tq and it's not overly stressing the S/C or the engine, but now I'm a little worried about the S/C seals since it's been sitting in the garage on a shelf for over a year now. I guess the only thing I can do is change the fluid in the S/C and hope I don't have any leaks for a while. I'm just patiently waiting on that harness...
At the time I had the S/C'er rebuilt, it had 105K miles on it. I read somewhere CT-E recommended that 100K was an acceptable interval to have it serviced, so I sent it in to be rebuilt to be safe. In addition, the S/C'ers are precision built devices that spin at high rpms so the bearings and seals will wear, like anything else, with that kind of mileage.
As to why my seals started to leak? I'm not really sure. It has not been confirmed yet until I get the inspection report back from JBPerformance. Heck, there may even be something else going on that I don't realize, who knows, so we'll see.I want to see that harness also.
I wonder if he contracted the job out to Boomslang? Maybe that's why its taking so long, with the holidays and all?
02-23-2019, 12:47 PM
#109
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The day has come.....i don't even know where to begin about my order through Dezod Motorsports. Make a long story short it was just over two months of waiting for my jumper to be made when I decided to cancel my order with Dezod. Every week that I would message him he would tell me that I would have the jumper harness by the end of the week, never happened... he kept promising me that it would be done soon. Remember, I paid $800 for him to make me a jumper harness. Little did I find out after i called boomslang (after 2 months of waiting) that they made the same jumper harness for $400 ($420 shipped). So Dezod was just buying the jumper harness from boomslang and selling it twice the price. Not sure why he didn't just hurry up in the beginning and send it out to me, because I would have never known that I could have just got it from boomslang for half the price. I guess he just kept on dragging his feet until I caught on. I thought boomslang only made the jumper harness for the automatic transmission, that is why I went with Dezod in the beginning. So I got my money back through PayPal and just ordered it through boomslang and literally got it 5 days after I ordered it. I would definitely not recommend doing work with Dezod Motorsports. I couldn't be more patient and nice with him during our messages, and I still have all the messages saved to prove my point, but I'm not on here to bash people I'm just letting you guys be aware. On a good note though, I finally have my harness
02-23-2019, 12:55 PM
#110
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
By the way, PayPal told me that people will keep giving excuses out to buy more time just so that 6 months can pass by so that a customer cannot be refunded their money. After 6 months there is nothing PayPal can do. Since it was before the 6 months PayPal refunded my money in 2 days from Dezod Motorsports
02-23-2019, 01:33 PM
#111
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The day has come.....i don't even know where to begin about my order through Dezod Motorsports. Make a long story short it was just over two months of waiting for my jumper to be made when I decided to cancel my order with Dezod. Every week that I would message him he would tell me that I would have the jumper harness by the end of the week, never happened... he kept promising me that it would be done soon. Remember, I paid $800 for him to make me a jumper harness. Little did I find out after i called boomslang (after 2 months of waiting) that they made the same jumper harness for $400 ($420 shipped). So Dezod was just buying the jumper harness from boomslang and selling it twice the price. Not sure why he didn't just hurry up in the beginning and send it out to me, because I would have never known that I could have just got it from boomslang for half the price. I guess he just kept on dragging his feet until I caught on. I thought boomslang only made the jumper harness for the automatic transmission, that is why I went with Dezod in the beginning. So I got my money back through PayPal and just ordered it through boomslang and literally got it 5 days after I ordered it. I would definitely not recommend doing work with Dezod Motorsports. I couldn't be more patient and nice with him during our messages, and I still have all the messages saved to prove my point, but I'm not on here to bash people I'm just letting you guys be aware. On a good note though, I finally have my harness
OK, so we know Boomslang makes these, I wonder why they are not on their website?
2ndgentl, when you called boomslang to inquire, did you specifically give them the 'AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT' name off the schematic or did they just know what you were talking about?
The only reason I'm curious is because Chris (Dezod) told Chris (bluedc2) that the schematic was proprietary to Dezod?
Either way, congrats on finally getting the harness.
Now you have an extra $400 in your pocket to allocate toward the tune.Thanks for the pictures above.
02-23-2019, 01:50 PM
#112
Instructor
The day has come.....i don't even know where to begin about my order through Dezod Motorsports. Make a long story short it was just over two months of waiting for my jumper to be made when I decided to cancel my order with Dezod. Every week that I would message him he would tell me that I would have the jumper harness by the end of the week, never happened... he kept promising me that it would be done soon. Remember, I paid $800 for him to make me a jumper harness. Little did I find out after i called boomslang (after 2 months of waiting) that they made the same jumper harness for $400 ($420 shipped). So Dezod was just buying the jumper harness from boomslang and selling it twice the price. Not sure why he didn't just hurry up in the beginning and send it out to me, because I would have never known that I could have just got it from boomslang for half the price. I guess he just kept on dragging his feet until I caught on. I thought boomslang only made the jumper harness for the automatic transmission, that is why I went with Dezod in the beginning. So I got my money back through PayPal and just ordered it through boomslang and literally got it 5 days after I ordered it. I would definitely not recommend doing work with Dezod Motorsports. I couldn't be more patient and nice with him during our messages, and I still have all the messages saved to prove my point, but I'm not on here to bash people I'm just letting you guys be aware. On a good note though, I finally have my harness
Oh, wow. That’s bad business right there. Glad to hear your finally got it.
And yeah as Zeta said, it’s good to know you can just purchase the harness straight from boomslang.
I’m actually selling my supercharger set-up as I just purchased a turbo manifold.
02-23-2019, 02:16 PM
#113
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
bluedc2, message forum member @AcuraCl1 , he's looking for a S/C'er kit for a 6-speed. You might get lucky.
02-23-2019, 04:25 PM
#114
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sorry to hear.
OK, so we know Boomslang makes these, I wonder why they are not on their website?
2ndgentl, when you called boomslang to inquire, did you specifically give them the 'AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT' name off the schematic or did they just know what you were talking about?
The only reason I'm curious is because Chris (Dezod) told Chris (bluedc2) that the schematic was proprietary to Dezod?
Either way, congrats on finally getting the harness. Now you have an extra $400 in your pocket to allocate toward the tune.
Thanks for the pictures above.
OK, so we know Boomslang makes these, I wonder why they are not on their website?
2ndgentl, when you called boomslang to inquire, did you specifically give them the 'AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT' name off the schematic or did they just know what you were talking about?
The only reason I'm curious is because Chris (Dezod) told Chris (bluedc2) that the schematic was proprietary to Dezod?
Either way, congrats on finally getting the harness.
Now you have an extra $400 in your pocket to allocate toward the tune.Thanks for the pictures above.
02-23-2019, 05:31 PM
#115
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
When I called boomslang the person who i was talking to knew right away what I was talking about. I didn't have to specify anything. All I told him was that i had an AEM EMS SERIES 2 for my 03 CL-S 6-speed (with 6-speed harness) and he said right away that they make the jumper for that. Then he mentioned that I had to switch that AEM unit from Hall to Mag and I told him that's already been taken care of. So at least I got one good thing out of Dezod. Lol
So, now theoretically, anyone with a forced induction CLS6 who wants to employ an AEM 30-6051, can purchase a compatible harness to get them on the road with a safe tune using the standalone. Completely bypassing Dezod and their $1799 AEM kit, LOL!
1)The AEM 30-6051 can be purchased retail or second hand.
2)The compatible harness for the CLS6 can purchased from Boomslang, with a phone call because it is not on their website.
3)The procedure for changing the Hall sensor to Mag is outlined in your very informative thread here, hehe.
The only final test that remains is to see if you have all of your car functions when the AEM unit is connected with your car running. Remember, bluedc2 mentioned something about his 'temp gauge' not working or something like that, so we have to watch out for that. Hopefully, if you come across an anomaly of some kind, @Karanx7 can advise you on how to tackle it.
Last edited by zeta; 02-23-2019 at 05:37 PM.
02-25-2019, 03:38 PM
#116
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Hey, 2ndgentl. Just curious, what's your 'plan' going forward now that you have your harness?
I know you have a busy work schedule....
I know you have a busy work schedule....
02-26-2019, 07:24 AM
#117
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
One of my friends keeps bugging me to take it to "Full Throttle Performance" in St. Pete. The owner there "Jay" is AEM Certified and supposedly a master tuner. He said he could tune my car in his sleep (even though I don't think he has ever tuned/worked on a J series engine, he just knows AEM software better than anything else). The word out there is that NASA wanted to hire him at some point in the past, but he steered into cars instead. I dunno, all he mainly works on at his shop is SRT Neons. I believe he holds the record for the fastest Neon. It's just when I went to his shop he is over his head in work, and I know my car would be sitting there for a while before it even gets looked at. I would just like to take it somewhere local closer to me. I know there are other tuners out there in my area which I need to call and talk to, but my friend keeps hammering me to take it to Jay.
02-26-2019, 09:51 AM
#118
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
One of my friends keeps bugging me to take it to "Full Throttle Performance" in St. Pete. The owner there "Jay" is AEM Certified and supposedly a master tuner. He said he could tune my car in his sleep (even though I don't think he has ever tuned/worked on a J series engine, he just knows AEM software better than anything else). The word out there is that NASA wanted to hire him at some point in the past, but he steered into cars instead. I dunno, all he mainly works on at his shop is SRT Neons. I believe he holds the record for the fastest Neon. It's just when I went to his shop he is over his head in work, and I know my car would be sitting there for a while before it even gets looked at.
If you want to investigate a couple shops locally, then you owe it to yourself.
Having someone local is certainly an advantage when unknown variables pop up out of nowhere and confuse any issue; especially tuning. Which is going to be a new journey for you and your project. There was a shop I found locally there in Trinity; however, I forget now. I'd have to look again. That might be a good place to start.You'll figure out the best plan forward.
02-26-2019, 03:43 PM
#119
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I believe the shop that you are talking about that is closest to me is "Phearable Performance ." I'm going to give them a call and find out if they are interested in tuning my car. I know they don't have a Dyno, and that is where the problem occurs. The nearest dyno in my area I believe is in Clearwater/Tampa, so even if I found someone to tune it in my area they probably have to take it to another shop so they can tune it on the dyno.
02-26-2019, 05:49 PM
#120
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
If you look at the Phearable video below, the dyno area has a yellow floor and a sign, on the left hand wall, that saysPowertech Performance, so that may be who he contracts out to, for dyno services, to use for his tuning?
If that's the case, it looks like it (the dyno) is about 15miles closer to you over the one at FullThrottlePerformance. https://youtu.be/M_E9iIi1NgA
https://insta-stalker.com/post/BtEY7WkgoXx/
Powertech dyno on the first picture:
Power Tech Performance - PowerTechPerformance.com