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#4
10th Gear
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Location: Denver... ish
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The mileage is what prompted me to buy this car on impulse... I couldn't pass it up. There's NOBODY within 500 miles of here selling one with less than 60k on the clock. Ideally, I wanted anthracite or white, but this will certainly do!
Dropping the car is one of the first things on my list of "necessary" amenities... next to a Progress rear sway, A-Spec wheels with a good set of shoes, Rotoras, and a stereo unit that I can control my iPod from. I came to the CL-S from a practically "loaded" Scion tC which had most of the creature comforts I want in a car.
teinCL, I only paid 16.
Dropping the car is one of the first things on my list of "necessary" amenities... next to a Progress rear sway, A-Spec wheels with a good set of shoes, Rotoras, and a stereo unit that I can control my iPod from. I came to the CL-S from a practically "loaded" Scion tC which had most of the creature comforts I want in a car.
teinCL, I only paid 16.
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#11
damn man thats exactly what I wanted...an 03 6-speed with low miles. I ended up getting the complete oppossite...02 CL with 105,000 miles and a/t. Love the car though...already put 3,500 miles on it since june
Get some headers...they will make a HUGE difference. It seems you are going for looks/handling more so then speed though.
Glad to see you ditched the scion...everyone around me tries to race me in them...they are not fast lol
Get some headers...they will make a HUGE difference. It seems you are going for looks/handling more so then speed though.
Glad to see you ditched the scion...everyone around me tries to race me in them...they are not fast lol
#14
Trolling Canuckistan
Originally Posted by Aracheon
The mileage is what prompted me to buy this car on impulse... I couldn't pass it up. There's NOBODY within 500 miles of here selling one with less than 60k on the clock. Ideally, I wanted anthracite or white, but this will certainly do!
Dropping the car is one of the first things on my list of "necessary" amenities... next to a Progress rear sway, A-Spec wheels with a good set of shoes, Rotoras, and a stereo unit that I can control my iPod from. I came to the CL-S from a practically "loaded" Scion tC which had most of the creature comforts I want in a car.
Dropping the car is one of the first things on my list of "necessary" amenities... next to a Progress rear sway, A-Spec wheels with a good set of shoes, Rotoras, and a stereo unit that I can control my iPod from. I came to the CL-S from a practically "loaded" Scion tC which had most of the creature comforts I want in a car.
I have the A-specs on my CL-S as well as a drop. If you get real A-spec rims (18x8.5) and you put 235's on them you will have to go with a coilover or fender rolling to avoid rubbing issues on the back. A buddy of mine also has the A-specs and comptech springs and he's limited to a 225 (which is an absolute bitch to stretch onto an 8.5" wide rim) or he rubs.
You could get the 17" aspec rim for the TSX and not have this issue, but it doesn't fill the wheel well as nicely or resolve the fact that the CL-S has traction issues with the stock rubber.
You can see both set ups in this thread. Comptechs and 225's by the beach, Tein SS-P and 235's in the woods.
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/xm-radio-196815/
I would also highly recommend the XSPower Headers, they are the best bang for the buck in terms of performance (about 20-30 ponies for about $100). If you search, you will find 7345 threads on XSPower headers. BTW the only headers you can get are these or Comptech, nothing else will clear the rear motor mount.
#15
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Originally Posted by LIPPSTUH
16 is a little on the high side i got mine for 14 with 28k miles
mmm let the modding begin
mmm let the modding begin
It was more than I wanted to pay for the car, but I've been looking locally for a CL-S for MONTHS. The guy who owned it has records of EVERYTHING, and he was pretty retentive about it. So given the impatience factor, and that the car was in good shape and all it's history documented, I sacrificed on price a little bit. But that's okay - I'm quite happy with the purchase.
Originally Posted by AZN.M3NACE
welcome! now its the time to remove that front plate bracket cause u know... no front plate yet...
Originally Posted by CH46ESeaKnight
Nice score, welcome to the club. See your near by too. Where around Denver are you?
Originally Posted by 02CL-TypeS
damn man thats exactly what I wanted...an 03 6-speed with low miles. I ended up getting the complete oppossite...02 CL with 105,000 miles and a/t. Love the car though...already put 3,500 miles on it since june
Get some headers...they will make a HUGE difference. It seems you are going for looks/handling more so then speed though.
Glad to see you ditched the scion...everyone around me tries to race me in them...they are not fast lol
Get some headers...they will make a HUGE difference. It seems you are going for looks/handling more so then speed though.
Glad to see you ditched the scion...everyone around me tries to race me in them...they are not fast lol
Headers are already ordered after much self-induced peer pressure - the price/HP gain (to me) is unheard of for a bolt on. I couldn't resist. And since I have a lift in my garage, I'll just do the install myself. Part of my reasoning behind buying the CL was to get into something a little more comfortable - I truly want it to remain nothing more than a very good-looking DD... so looks and handling improvements fit the bill exactly.
And you're right - the tC is not a fast car at all. It tips the scales at a piggish 3,000ish pounds, and that little 2.4L only pushes 160/160. I have to give Toyota credit, though - the Scion tC is a NICE little car for the price. Very inexpensive and infrequent maintenance schedule, reliable as all hell, they look nice, they drive nice, and they have a surprising amount of legroom in the back seat. They've also got a very short-ratio'ed 5spd (think 6-spd without the 6th gear) and despite the 22/28mpg rating, I consistently beat the EPA estimate with a 28/35 mix - and that's with a bit of a lead foot. So while most of the people who drive and own the cars are retarded, there are a few responsible ones out there. I really am going to miss the car when it finally sells, though. I grew pretty attached to it.
Originally Posted by black label
Whe I saw the pic of the odometer I had to go back to see if this was a thread revival from 2005. That's crazy low mileage.
I have the A-specs on my CL-S as well as a drop. If you get real A-spec rims (18x8.5) and you put 235's on them you will have to go with a coilover or fender rolling to avoid rubbing issues on the back. A buddy of mine also has the A-specs and comptech springs and he's limited to a 225 (which is an absolute bitch to stretch onto an 8.5" wide rim) or he rubs.
You could get the 17" aspec rim for the TSX and not have this issue, but it doesn't fill the wheel well as nicely or resolve the fact that the CL-S has traction issues with the stock rubber.
You can see both set ups in this thread. Comptechs and 225's by the beach, Tein SS-P and 235's in the woods.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196815
I have the A-specs on my CL-S as well as a drop. If you get real A-spec rims (18x8.5) and you put 235's on them you will have to go with a coilover or fender rolling to avoid rubbing issues on the back. A buddy of mine also has the A-specs and comptech springs and he's limited to a 225 (which is an absolute bitch to stretch onto an 8.5" wide rim) or he rubs.
You could get the 17" aspec rim for the TSX and not have this issue, but it doesn't fill the wheel well as nicely or resolve the fact that the CL-S has traction issues with the stock rubber.
You can see both set ups in this thread. Comptechs and 225's by the beach, Tein SS-P and 235's in the woods.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196815
#18
10th Gear
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Couple of ingredients:
- Waxed dental floss
- Wagner heat gun
- Goo gone
- Couple of terry cloths
- Couple microfiber towels
- Meguiar's Quik Detailer
- PATIENCE
I heat up each individual badge with the gun until you start to see the glue bubble out a little from underneath. It's soft enough at this point to pry off with your hands (using the terry towel as a shield.) If not, you can use the dental floss to "cut" the glue if prying isn't picking up the majority of the glue from the paint.
While the glue is still warm, I try to "roll up" as much of it as I can with my fingers. The remaining amount gets a little bit of Goo Gone dripped on it, and I'll gently rub at it with the towel until it comes off... being VERY careful not to scratch the paint.
Once I have the glue off, there's always a bit of residue left. I'll use the Quik Detailer and the microfiber towel to remove it. And voila! Instant clean.
- Waxed dental floss
- Wagner heat gun
- Goo gone
- Couple of terry cloths
- Couple microfiber towels
- Meguiar's Quik Detailer
- PATIENCE
I heat up each individual badge with the gun until you start to see the glue bubble out a little from underneath. It's soft enough at this point to pry off with your hands (using the terry towel as a shield.) If not, you can use the dental floss to "cut" the glue if prying isn't picking up the majority of the glue from the paint.
While the glue is still warm, I try to "roll up" as much of it as I can with my fingers. The remaining amount gets a little bit of Goo Gone dripped on it, and I'll gently rub at it with the towel until it comes off... being VERY careful not to scratch the paint.
Once I have the glue off, there's always a bit of residue left. I'll use the Quik Detailer and the microfiber towel to remove it. And voila! Instant clean.
#20
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Just remember, patience is your friend. Rushing the job will inadvertently end up putting scratches in the paint. (Ask me how I know... lol.)
#21
Seton Hall Pirate
Join Date: Jan 2005
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looks good, when i started debadging i left on the CL S also, but eventually totally removed everything even the A symbol and am having it welded and painted. It looks so clean. My advice, forget aspec wheels, and grab up some 3gen TL wheels they look sick on CLs. And its and 8 width so you can probably go lower without rubbing issues and they look so much better
#24
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Originally Posted by enycesam
Hmm. I noticed just now that the 3.2 is stuck on with the CL emblem. How did you separate them? Did you just simply cut them off from each other?
Very careful use of a razor blade and a heat gun - and not a single scratch on the paint.
Essentially what I did was heat up the "3.2", which moved enough heat across the connecting bar where I was able to "saw" through until there was about a half millimeter of plastic remaining. Then I just pried it up and it was a very clean snap off.
#27
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Originally Posted by nbennettksu
33??? Fawk me
A little PDR and some touchup paint on the rear bumper, and she's back to showroom condition.
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