8" sub between seats. 01 cl-s
10-13-2005, 10:20 PM
#42
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just a quick question. How do you mount the box to the back of the seats? so that it doesn't slide back when you accelerate? Or does it simply rest up against the back of the seat?
10-15-2005, 04:28 PM
#43
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my box it mounted with screws to the back of my seat. it's not going anywhere. i screwed the box to the braces that run verticallly on both sides of the opening. its looks something like this 
10-16-2005, 11:39 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by imrichbeoch
the 10 will probably work, i think the opening is about 9 1/2 inches. a 12 would be firing into the seat a little, how i mounted mine. with a spacer a 12 would work, you just wouldn't see all of it.
10-18-2005, 09:22 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by h2o-pr00f
so i decided to look into this a bit more.. silvercl and i have 1st gen cl's.. the opening for us is about 11" high and 7" wide.. i decided to sit my 12" solo baric sitting around in the hole.. it fits ok for my taste.. not vully visible but good enough.. i think i might keep this thing since its black.. its not an L5 or an L7 but itll do ok for the time bieng i guess..
10-18-2005, 10:33 PM
#49
An eight inch subwoofer facing forward would generate alot of cone noise in the cabin of the car. Especially at higher frequencies which an 8 will produce most of the time. Great work.... But I wouldn't recommend it to anyone for a good bass note. 
10-18-2005, 11:02 PM
#50
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Originally Posted by uncald4
An eight inch subwoofer facing forward would generate alot of cone noise in the cabin of the car. Especially at higher frequencies which an 8 will produce most of the time. Great work.... But I wouldn't recommend it to anyone for a good bass note.
A fourth order crossover dialed in to around 70-80 Hz should prevent excess "cone noise". Most audiophiles prefer direct radiators as opposed to burying subwoofers in the trunk to accomodate shoddily put together systems. Excess "cone noise" is usually the result of either a shitty woofer, poorly designed enclosure or bad signal processing.
10-18-2005, 11:21 PM
#51
Originally Posted by DonPunani
That's kinda what a low-pass crossover is meant for
A fourth order crossover dialed in to around 70-80 Hz should prevent excess "cone noise". Most audiophiles prefer direct radiators as opposed to burying subwoofers in the trunk to accomodate shoddily put together systems. Excess "cone noise" is usually the result of either a shitty woofer, poorly designed enclosure or bad signal processing.
A fourth order crossover dialed in to around 70-80 Hz should prevent excess "cone noise". Most audiophiles prefer direct radiators as opposed to burying subwoofers in the trunk to accomodate shoddily put together systems. Excess "cone noise" is usually the result of either a shitty woofer, poorly designed enclosure or bad signal processing.
SNOOP upside your head..... from a direct radiator crossed at 70hz from a 200 watt MTX amp? Audiophile?
10-18-2005, 11:33 PM
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Easy tough guy...
I said fourth order crossover. Said MTX amp doesn't have one. Also, most any MTX amplifier would fall into the catagory of "bad signal processing". I apologize since I didn't address the fact that an MTX amp was used for this install.
If you're listening to Snoop, get a couple of POS 12's in a bandpass box and a heatsink that passes for an amp and call it a day.
I said fourth order crossover. Said MTX amp doesn't have one. Also, most any MTX amplifier would fall into the catagory of "bad signal processing". I apologize since I didn't address the fact that an MTX amp was used for this install.
If you're listening to Snoop, get a couple of POS 12's in a bandpass box and a heatsink that passes for an amp and call it a day.
10-19-2005, 12:15 AM
#53
Originally Posted by DonPunani
Easy tough guy...
I said fourth order crossover. Said MTX amp doesn't have one. Also, most any MTX amplifier would fall into the catagory of "bad signal processing". I apologize since I didn't address the fact that an MTX amp was used for this install.
If you're listening to Snoop, get a couple of POS 12's in a bandpass box and a heatsink that passes for an amp and call it a day.
I said fourth order crossover. Said MTX amp doesn't have one. Also, most any MTX amplifier would fall into the catagory of "bad signal processing". I apologize since I didn't address the fact that an MTX amp was used for this install.
If you're listening to Snoop, get a couple of POS 12's in a bandpass box and a heatsink that passes for an amp and call it a day.
10-19-2005, 09:01 PM
#54
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how long did it take u to make the box for it? how many watts is that amp? looking to do the same but getthe jl 8W7 but dont know how much watts its powered for
10-19-2005, 09:16 PM
#55
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Nice turn out on the box i like it! 
How is your overall sound like now? Im looking into doing a fiberglass enclosure soon, Once i have time to do it!
How is your overall sound like now? Im looking into doing a fiberglass enclosure soon, Once i have time to do it!
10-19-2005, 10:01 PM
#56
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I just did pretty much the same thing today. I had an 8" sub with a custom box a buddy and I built. The box is nice as well as the fitment I aranged but the sound is awfull. Reason being, the sub sucks. It was an old Pyle driver I had sitting around 'cause the RF Punch fried when I had it in my pick-up. I think once I upgrade the sub, it will sound awesome. I'm pushing mine with a Kenwood amp. Pushes approx. 150w RMS. Can't wait for a new sub! I'll probably go get one this weekend. Just as an FYI, with the seat out, all I did was take the little plastic door off it's hinge, trim the plastic frame with a little dremmeling (the ski pass-through), mount the sub box to that same door frame using six screws through the plastic into the box, reinstall the seatback into the car with box attached. Luckily, the box fitment was perfect for this. If it had been any bigger, the seat wounldn't have gone back in just right. Once that was in, I mounted the amp to the back of the box and wired it up. (I did a little more than this but I'm feeling too lazy to start a new thread on the whole process.) I still have the armrest so you can put it up and hide the sub. Pretty freakin' trick if you ask me. I would post pics but I don't want to get flamed for the sub I'm using. LOL!
To anyone looking to do this, wanting to keep your trunk space, I say DO IT! Get a good sounding sub though since it fires directly into the cabin. Enjoy!
To anyone looking to do this, wanting to keep your trunk space, I say DO IT! Get a good sounding sub though since it fires directly into the cabin. Enjoy!
So you have two subs or what?
11-18-2005, 02:57 PM
#61
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Pardon my ignorance, I'm a newbie that hasn't torn apart the dash yet. Are there pre-outs in the factory radio? If not, what did you use for a signal to the amp?
11-18-2005, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Misdby1
Pardon my ignorance, I'm a newbie that hasn't torn apart the dash yet. Are there pre-outs in the factory radio? If not, what did you use for a signal to the amp?
12-13-2005, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by blkactypes01
chriskh does it rattle a lot when you put the sub in
Not at all actually. It's all bolted down pretty tight. The one thing I did do though to prevent some rattles was at the bottom of seatback. I stuffed some rubber stuff I found laying around the garage between anything metal to metal and some other places that had rattle potential. Word to the wise... If you do this, do it with the back seat out of the car or if nothing else at least the seat bottoms out. Once you get everything installed on the seat back, turn that mother on and listen... listen closely for rattles, pin point them, stomp the life out of them with anything you can find to isolate it. Then re-install the seat cusions.
I'm hoping for one of those sqaure silver Kickers to replace that stupid Pyle I have in there right now.
My brother is a pretty stand up guy, hopefully he'll come through for Christmas! Once I get one, I'll post pics. It is a pretty sweet install if I do say so myself.
12-13-2005, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by blkactypes01
how much was the install all together or did u do it yourself
Yep, it was free. Did it myself. I like to do as much as I can myself. I really can't stand when other people touch my car. Especially when I'm not around.
12-19-2005, 04:10 PM
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size of the box really is determined by the amount of cubic ft. you need to make your sub happy. my sub called for about 0.4 cubic ft so my box was 12 x 11 5/8 x 8 . all are external measurements. i used 3/4 in. mdf. for my box.
12-19-2005, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by imrichbeoch
size of the box really is determined by the amount of cubic ft. you need to make your sub happy. my sub called for about 0.4 cubic ft so my box was 12 x 11 5/8 x 8 . all are external measurements. i used 3/4 in. mdf. for my box.
12-26-2005, 03:03 PM
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Ok, so here's a pic of what I did with the new sub. Now that the new sub is in, I don't like the install. Imrichbeotch's looks much cleaner so I'm going to go his route. Only thing is, being it's a square sub, it fits a bit different so I'll have to get creative. It sounds so much better now but not perfect due to the fact the box wasn't made for this sub. That will all change eventually. Here's the pic...
BTW: The box is around 11"hx11w"x8"d
BTW: The box is around 11"hx11w"x8"d
12-28-2005, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Stealth CL
soory to dissapoint you but thats not an l7 thats an l5
l5-red in middle
l7-blue in middle
l5-red in middle
l7-blue in middle
Oops! Thank you for that correction.
You are right. Sorry, I knew it was L-something and I don't have the car at the moment to verify.