1) Remove intake and throttle body from manifold.
2) Disconnect all vacuum lines and sensors from it.
3) Unbolt the top plate.
4) Unbolt the manifold and remove along with the IMRC motor and cable.
5) Bolt new manifold on.
6) Bolt new top plate on.
7) Plug one of the vacuum fittings on the manifold
8) Connect brake booster vacuum line, FPR vacuum line, and PCV line to manifold.
9) Extend wires on the IAT sensor and install in the intake tube approximately 6" before the throttle body.
10) Bolt throttle body adapter onto manifold, then bolt the TB to that
11) Reconnect air intake tube.
12) Extend wires from the IMRC plug near rear cylinder to the IMRC actuator on the side of the manifold.









The fpr vacuum is now connected to the "L" at the TB side of the manifold.

This is the IMRC connector on the new manifold:


01 CLS IMRC pinout:



Words by civicdrivr & e30cabrio, pictures by e30cabrio.

This was a collaboration of a number of people and I appreciate their help, especially Morgan & Sean @ P2R.

Please don't try this if you can't accept possible issues, I accept no responsibility If you mess up your car.

Original thread here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/possible-new-mod-728942/

 

Can a mod please add [img] [/img] to the 01 CL IMRC pinout link?

 

Thanks for doing this. I wonder if we should attach this to the first post of the main thread?

 

Thank u guys. Now for some dyno numbers

 

Lol. Id say thats posted in the other thread but I dont want another argument. Let me find it....


















And......








Got it:



Runfile 003 is before, Runfile 004 is after.

Mods:

BEFORE DYNO
-P2R throttle body spacer
-CT Icebox
-XS Headers
-Underdrive pulley

AFTER DYNO
-CT Icebox
-XS Headers
-Underdrive pulley
-Intake Manifold
-P2R TB adapter
-Ported throttle body

 

Thank you guys for taking the time to put this DIY together. I am sure that all members interested in this mod appreciate your hard work on this project. I know that I do... Thanx again!!

 

My IAT solution:

The IAT was on the old manifold, I moved it to the intake since the new manifold does not have a port for it.




Something I forgot about:



Two things, remove the bolt that ties the cable for the butterfly before removing the manifold. I had an anxious moment with my long magnetic Snap-On screwdriver getting it out of the intake runner.

Second the Comptech strut bar had to be elevated about 3/4" to get the old out & new on.

 

Civicdrivr-didn't u say ur car wasn't running right? If I do decide to do this mod. I would get a stock dyno run and them some runs with this intake manifold. I thing the underdrive pulley could have freed up some power

 

I believe he has compression loss issues.

My car runs great and this mod made a big difference. (no I don't have dyno #s but come on, you feel more power when it is there)

 

i doubt the underdrive pulley created a 10hp 10 tq gain across the board.

a pulley is maybe 2-3hp if youre lucky

its important to note that although you had low compression this mod still provided gains.

and an engine with higher compression and more need for air will see higher gains

 

soooo what model did this intake come off of? It wasn't mentioned.

 

2009 Acura TL SH-AWD intake manifold

 

Can you please add TL to the thread title?

 

how much was final cost for TL parts and what else did you put in there

 

Thanks again E30/civicdrivr for all your hard work and $$ spent. I would love to do this mod. Well at least when I'm ready I have the info I need to DIY!!!!

 

What are the part numbers for the things we need? 09 tl doesn't show up on acuraautomotiveparts.org.

 

For those of you who did this mod was a tune required? Did the stock ecu adjust itself well?

 

Im running no tune. Sean at P2R is running an AEM EMS and he tuned afterwards, which is why he showed better gains then me.

Rajca - I had the underdrive pulley on for both runs. And yes, my car wasn't, and still isn't, running right. Its not caused by the manifold swap, these issues cropped up long before the new manifold.

Part numbers:

17140-RK1-A01

17160-RK2-A00

I forget what's what, but the manifold would definately be the more expensive of the two.

To those of you unfamiliar with this mod:

The CL-S Throttle body will not bolt directly to the TL manifold!! You need the P2R CL-S to TL Throttle Body adapter!!

 

No tune but reset the ECU which over a few days calibrated and garnered more & more powa.

 

p2r put down +11whp and what torque?

 

done.

I'm really liking this mod.

 

Thanks for the addition of TL & I agree, of all my mods this is the best overall it has more power, better looks, relative ease to accomplish and was not that expensive.

 

Is this about = to the plenums?
1 of these days I'll get something to tune with. I'm sure I have 20HP more I could squeeze out of my 251 baseline.

 

so how expensive is it ?

 

you can read the other thread also, it has tons of info in it.

Minimum you need:

Manifold: ~$350 (in short supply)
P2R Adapter: $70
Gaskets: P2R or OEM...google it.
Might need some longer tubing for vacuum lines

 

nice work guys

 

This is really cool, I want to do this as soon as spring hits. Thanks again guys!

 

It cost me nearly $700, but I also upgraded the throttle body. Expect to spend less if youre not getting that as well.

Fuzzy : According the Sean @ P2R this manifold is better then the plenums.

 

[QUOTE=civicdrivr;11402198
Fuzzy : According the Sean @ P2R this manifold is better then the plenums.[/QUOTE]

and looks much better

 

[QUOTE=civicdrivr;11402198
Fuzzy : According the Sean @ P2R this manifold is better then the plenums.[/QUOTE]

and looks much better

 

Thats not very much power increase for the money IMO..

 

I have compression issues and still made power over the entire RPM range, and most of all, I feel it. Im positive you'd make more power on a healthy motor.

 

civicdrivr, you said you have an upgraded tb? what bore do you have and is it just the tb that matches the im or a different one?

I'm asking because I would want to do the larger tb as well, and want to know what to look for.

 

We both have the bored TB. It is the oem TB bored by P2R to 71mm.

 

Oh, do you think the 09 tl tb would work with this?? and would it be better or worse

 

It is an 09 intake so of course the 09 TB works, the 09 TB would need all the drive by wire components to work on a non drive by wire car like the gen2 CL/TL.

 

So that would be way to difficult for me to do, bored tb it is!

 

The 09 TL TB is drive-by-wire. You may be able to do it if you removed all the electronic bs from it and and somehow mounted the butterfly pulley to it. It may be too much work.

Ive heard D-series throttle bodies work on the J, so if thats the case, B and H series will work as well. You can get aftermarket TBs that are bigger then the OE bored CL TB, but it will take some ingenuity to get it to work. You have to work out the MAP sensor and the IACV, and keep in mind you will lose cruise control.

But we're talking 1 or 2MMs, which isnt that much of a difference. I measured my bored TB at 69.xxMM right at the inlet, which tapers down to 67MM I believe. Theres only so much you can remove from the stock TB.

 

That makes sense, and that is a small difference. Thanks for the clarification.

 

Maybe a dumb question, but does 3-4mm make much of a difference at all? The only purpose I could think of is to reduce turbulence post TB but that being said, since the inlet on the 09 manifold is 80mm, that cannot be avoided anyway. Not trying to be a jerk, but it is extra coin for what seems to be a moot point...