DIY: Springs & Shocks (And how to remove rear seat)
DIY: Springs & Shocks (And how to remove rear seat)
Last edited by mclarenf3387; Oct 26, 2008 at 07:19 PM. Reason: Updated as per request of Niteqwill
1st off......AWESOME tutorial and AWESOME job...I must say 
2nd...How much did it run you for the H&R sports and the Bilsteins? Is a camber kit needed?
3rdly...how much would you charge to do this if I came down to you? Im up in the SFV (San Fernando Valley). Let me know

2nd...How much did it run you for the H&R sports and the Bilsteins? Is a camber kit needed?
3rdly...how much would you charge to do this if I came down to you? Im up in the SFV (San Fernando Valley). Let me know
Thanks.
H&R Sports were $150, Bilstein was $419 off ebay. Camber is car specific, not suspension specific, although it is a given with some (Tein, Race springs, etc.). My car needed no camber kit, I'm only off by hundredths of a degree.
PM me and we can talk about price and installation. It's all dependent around school and work. But my friend and I are willing to do any suspension install for a fee.
H&R Sports were $150, Bilstein was $419 off ebay. Camber is car specific, not suspension specific, although it is a given with some (Tein, Race springs, etc.). My car needed no camber kit, I'm only off by hundredths of a degree.
PM me and we can talk about price and installation. It's all dependent around school and work. But my friend and I are willing to do any suspension install for a fee.
I do believe I am the first with Bilstein shocks on the forums. The Bilsteins are great, they are firm but feel stock, seriously. They are also very responsive and suit well with the springs. I'll try to do a full review in a few weeks. If anyone wants to hitch a ride to feel it, you'll be welcome.
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excellent job mang, this should answer a whole of request. just one addition, you don't need to compress the rear springs, the spring will come out and go in without the need of compressing the spring.
Re: DIY: Springs & Shocks (Mods Can Archive if needed)
Originally posted by NiteQwill
13. If you just replacing springs, you MUST mark the vertical position of all components using chalk. This is necessary for the front and back so you can align everything correctly. It’s a PITA to remove, fix, put back, remove, adjust, put back… you get the idea.
13. If you just replacing springs, you MUST mark the vertical position of all components using chalk. This is necessary for the front and back so you can align everything correctly. It’s a PITA to remove, fix, put back, remove, adjust, put back… you get the idea.
Re: Re: DIY: Springs & Shocks (Mods Can Archive if needed)
Originally posted by simean
ok guys...i have no idea what this means...maybe u can clear this up for me. how do i do this?
ok guys...i have no idea what this means...maybe u can clear this up for me. how do i do this?
Example (don't snicker
): BOLT [==> O=====]= TOP HAT (8) Holes in car They must all align to fit the bolt at the bottom assembly and top hat into the frame of the car.When replacing both shocks and springs, this is not necessary because aftermarket shocks can turn... So you can turn the assembly and hat until it fits.
Honestly, you'll see what I'm talking about when you take it out.
Slimey: The Bilstein Sports are made to fit the 98-02 Accord V6. Don't get the 4cyl version (I believe there is a check digit added to the end of the part number) as they may blow due to different specs for gas compression and rebound.
Here are the Part Numbers:
Front: BE5-6580-H0
Back: BE5-6581-H0
Thanks.
I thought that 98-02 suspension parts physically fit our car, but are not a proper substitute because of weight differences between our car and the Accord.
I know that others (I think EricL had a nice write up a year or two ago) looked into Bilstein struts, but could not find a properly spec'ed model for our car.
I think you're the first person to install them in the CL-S. Let us know how they work out - I'm looking to upgrade my struts in the next year or two and if my decision tree adds in Bilstein, then I got some more thinking to do.
I thought that 98-02 suspension parts physically fit our car, but are not a proper substitute because of weight differences between our car and the Accord.
I know that others (I think EricL had a nice write up a year or two ago) looked into Bilstein struts, but could not find a properly spec'ed model for our car.
I think you're the first person to install them in the CL-S. Let us know how they work out - I'm looking to upgrade my struts in the next year or two and if my decision tree adds in Bilstein, then I got some more thinking to do.
Nice post man. I followed this last night and got my H&R OE's on. It took me about 8 hours because I didn't have an air gun. Compressing the springs is a biatch by hand. I didn't get done until 5 a.m.......drove around about 20 miles and went and got an alignment later.
Also, I didn't realize what you meant on #13.......I found out very quickly about 3 hours in to the first spring and the 3rd time off.
All in all...priceless post. You may want to add that you need a hex key to get the rear sway bar off. I was turning and turning for 15 minutes before I realized the whole bolt was moving.
. Also, it would be cool if it was printable....as it doesn't format well on a printer.....but no biggie.
Thank you for taking time to do this.
Also, I didn't realize what you meant on #13.......I found out very quickly about 3 hours in to the first spring and the 3rd time off.
All in all...priceless post. You may want to add that you need a hex key to get the rear sway bar off. I was turning and turning for 15 minutes before I realized the whole bolt was moving.
. Also, it would be cool if it was printable....as it doesn't format well on a printer.....but no biggie.Thank you for taking time to do this.
Thanx for the comment! Glad to see everything worked out and this post helped you.
Sorry, yes, I should add that a hex key is required for the end-links. I used an airgun (no key needed), so I forgot that I needed it.
Sorry, yes, I should add that a hex key is required for the end-links. I used an airgun (no key needed), so I forgot that I needed it.
im gonna bring this back from the dead so i can thank NITE for a incredibly detailed DIY. im going to attempt this with my brother-in-law very soon and this was VERYYYYYYYYYYY helpful!!
Nite,
First of all, I want to thank you on preparing an _excellent_ guide. I used it to install the rear shocks and springs this weekend and it was very helpful.
I had a few thoughts/ questions.
1. why do you recomend removing all three bolts at the top of the shock? It does not seem necessary, and we did not remove it for the second wheel.
2. Did you use the bottom out bumper from the original shock? It is not mentioned in your guide. (We did - no probs yet.)
3. regarding the front shock, do you really need to remove all five bolts at the top mount mount? (see no.1)
4. To make the job easier, we used a second jack to compress the spring soo that the spring compressor can be attached while its compressed, saving alot of time compressing it by hand.
5. I know you installed non-adjustable shocks,but i used illuminas - I drilled out a small hole above the shock to allow acces to the adjusting knob. You may want to mention that possibility.
Thanks again for a great guide!
Roland
First of all, I want to thank you on preparing an _excellent_ guide. I used it to install the rear shocks and springs this weekend and it was very helpful.
I had a few thoughts/ questions.
1. why do you recomend removing all three bolts at the top of the shock? It does not seem necessary, and we did not remove it for the second wheel.
2. Did you use the bottom out bumper from the original shock? It is not mentioned in your guide. (We did - no probs yet.)
3. regarding the front shock, do you really need to remove all five bolts at the top mount mount? (see no.1)
4. To make the job easier, we used a second jack to compress the spring soo that the spring compressor can be attached while its compressed, saving alot of time compressing it by hand.
5. I know you installed non-adjustable shocks,but i used illuminas - I drilled out a small hole above the shock to allow acces to the adjusting knob. You may want to mention that possibility.
Thanks again for a great guide!
Roland
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Thanks.
H&R Sports were $150, Bilstein was $419 off ebay. Camber is car specific, not suspension specific, although it is a given with some (Tein, Race springs, etc.). My car needed no camber kit, I'm only off by hundredths of a degree.
PM me and we can talk about price and installation. It's all dependent around school and work. But my friend and I are willing to do any suspension install for a fee.
H&R Sports were $150, Bilstein was $419 off ebay. Camber is car specific, not suspension specific, although it is a given with some (Tein, Race springs, etc.). My car needed no camber kit, I'm only off by hundredths of a degree.
PM me and we can talk about price and installation. It's all dependent around school and work. But my friend and I are willing to do any suspension install for a fee.
Tryin to do something like yours but with eibach prokit
oh yea just want to say THankyo thankyou thankyou for the DIY!!!
Originally Posted by OneFlyCL
Where did you get bilstein shocks for 419??? The only one i found on ebay was 479....these ones right?>>>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BILST...48267355QQrdZ1
Tryin to do something like yours but with eibach prokit
oh yea just want to say THankyo thankyou thankyou for the DIY!!!
Tryin to do something like yours but with eibach prokit
oh yea just want to say THankyo thankyou thankyou for the DIY!!!
Yes, those are the shocks that I used. To make sure, compare the part numbers before every purchase off eBay.
Good luck!


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