Got the TL-S cluster almost all the way completed. Few more things to do but here's the progress:

 

Looking good

 

Strut tower painted to match manifold accent. I know, its a little lame to be posting but it came out so good that I figured why not? It was a slow day at work and I had some free time...and a can of ceramic paint.





Oh and disregard my makeshift CAI...its a temporary piece. If you look close enough, it still has a nitrous nozzle still attached to it. I should probably remove that as its tempting...

 

a 50 shot wont hurt right...lol

 

Sweet. I need to start looking for my wiring stuff.

 

Does this motor have a differnt belt routing than earlier j's ?
Looks weird seeing the long stretch between the power steering pump and the alt and no seperate ps belt.
I like the color matching of the strut bar,now you are going to have to re color the odd color piece's to blend in. Blacks and polished pieces and it's will be nice to look at.

Once you have run nitrous,in the back of your mind you will alway want to run it.
keep it.

 

God I want this car

 

That's what everyone says...at first.

Ok.

Dang Mr. I Observe Everything I See, lol. Yes, it has the AC compressor deleted therefore the belt is routed in a manner where it can still be held under the belt tensioner.

You already have one. Just need a j35a8 and you're gtg!

 

Coil packs painted to match.


Big plans fast approaching on adding turbo. Car will be taken to a shop next week to build the manifold and I'm going to do everything else. This is my first turbo build/setup so I will require help I'm sure along the way from those who are experienced and knowledgable.

 

It's going to be beast boosted

 

I was just reading thru paul's turbo build thread on v 6 p forum. A lot of useful info with pics if you haven't already read it.

 

I like boost ...

 

I honestly think I've seen them all. I'm one of the biggest researchers you've ever seen. Google becomes your best friend on situations like these...helps to make things a little easier with unique or custom builds.

I've already ordered Richies V3 PCDs and was able to order just half of them so that I could use them as the beginning of a turbo manifold. They're 304 stainless which is good because I want all of the hot charge tubing to be entirely stainless.

I think doing a turbo setup is going to be just as much work if not more than the j35a8 swap itself. There's a lot that goes into this stuff. But, it's ok. Old dudes like me need to have their fun too!

 

you ordered half of the pcds... hmm... i would be interested in seeing your manifolds.

 

fixed

 

As mentioned, I had two choices on manifold design. The first option was Richies V3 PCDs that consisted of the upper portion only. The upper flange surprised me in its design quality as it was a cast piece...meaning it was made like an engine block is made. That's basically where molten steel is poured into a cast where it then cools to produce a solid, one piece structure which is generally better than welding multiple pieces of steel together which leaves more room for failure from cracked welds. That's the (biggest) advantage. What I don't like about them is that they are 304 stainless which is more prone to cracking from heat fluctuation. Here's a picture of what they look like...fitment was perfect.

 

pretty badass swap!

 

looking good

 

How much did these run you ? if you dont mind me asking.. Twin turbo setup with some T25s or T28s internally gated.

 

I paid $150 shipped for the pair on the upper PCD flanges. Great deal. Great product.

 

Was planing on doing this second part lastnight but ended up passing out after posting the PCD flange.

My second option is the one I may be leaning towards. The P2R flange is a mild steel piece that's approx 3/8" thick. It's meant to be the start of an exhaust manifold and allows flexibility to go any direction/route desired rather than a predetermined one. I found a company called Spin Tech Mufflers based out of Cali that bends/builds custom exhaust components and ordereded a set of 90 degree horizontal oval to round transitions. Even though the name describes what it does, I'll break that down. It's basically a 90 degree piece of tubing that will convert the oval shape of the exhaust port from the cylinder heads in to a round shape but also allows me to take a horizontal path straight from the head to where the turbo will be mounted (where battery currently sits). It's a 3.5" radius bend meaning it changes the direction of the tubing within that distance which is basically from the head to the bends elbow. Haven't received them yet but they will be here by Tuesday and I will post pictures then. Here's the P2R flanges:

 

I think I like these more than the cast pieces

 

this was a very nice build! wish to one day do this

 

Car is at this guys ^^^ shop right now getting "tweaked".

Maybe he will bless us with pictures of progress...huh Matt?

 

@yungone501

When you did the wiring for the car, what did you end up doing for the fuel pump control wires on the E plug? (Assuming of course that you didn't install the controller from the TL-S)

I'm considering attempting an ECU upgrade in my '05, but there are a few items like this on the newer ECUs that are putting me off a bit.

 

Thats a sexy build, props to you sir!

 

I will send the pics to you as progress is made and you can do as you wish with them

 

Hello! Did you ever weigh the bare J35a (no trans)? With or without starter, elternator, etc.?

 

For me, I wired them up to the fuel pump control (FPC) module. Its a 2-wire pulse width modulation controlled unit...aside from the standard power and ground ran to the fuel pump. As previously explained a page or two back, I built a hybrid fuel pump out of an 05 RL and the 98 Accord assemblies. I had to use the Accords fuel pump assembly body and installed the RLs internals inside of it. This was necessary because the RL (as well as the 07-08 TL-S) fuel pump assembly was about half the height of the Accords. The fuel level float was also modified to work in the Accords fuel tank as I am using an 07 TL cluster.

As for you, just so you know, running the FPC module is NOT required to run the motor of your TL but is necessary if you want a MIL free conversion. Not sure of the exact differences between the two (3g TL-S and TL) off the top of my head but any differences you notice, Id be happy to help or assist with any questions you may have. Just PM me if its gets too lengthy to keep the thread clean.

I will tell you that your conversion will be difficult and not so sure its possible because of the major differences between the transmissions...unless youre running a 6MT.

She's quite a lady, thanks.

That's good enough for me. Just as long as we can observe from a distance and stay out of your way.

Hello! Sure didnt...I dont have a scale in that range. Sorry. But I will say that the j35a8 must be ATLEAST 25lbs lighter in weight than a j32a2 fully assembled. The difference is primarily in the magnesium intake manifold. Not to mention other various points at which Acura went with lighter and stronger parts for this motor.

 

wait your on here..


his fab work and attention to detail is great. What are the dimension of the opening on the cast pieces(not at the flange) ?

 

for a couple years, yes. Just don't post much

And thanks, I try

Not sure of dimension of cast piece off the top of my head

 

Atlas, if you're asking about the OD of the PCD outlet, I'm quite certain it's 2.25".

 

Hmmmm...

 

Mmmhmm...

 

i thought i edited that. Has Matt sent you pics of the oval to round piping you ordered ? Or manifold progress?

 

No pictures as of yet but he called me lastnight and informed me that they had arrived. If they're anything like the first pieces Spin Tech sent then they should have very impressive bend quality with not a kink one.

Btw, what's up your sleeve Atlas? Droppin' hints like bombs buddy.

 

I'll be removing the UNsporty, heavy Accord cloth seats and installing a set of RSX Type S seats. Black leather and manual operation not only looks better but will save a little weight. I'll see about weighing them individually when exchanging them. The drivers seat (shown) cost me a whopping $48.

 

Forgot to add something:
The original intent of this thread was to modify a j35a6 (2nd gen j-motor) to work with the factory electronics of a 1st gen j-motor but kind of derailed upon the find of the j35a8 which then of course totally blossomed into an entirely new idea (the Accord).

Now that Mr Hickam has my dearly beloved, I began to feel very bored driving my wife's 4cyl. 1998 CL so I rekindled the original thought process here in the thread. I last ended with needing to modify the oil pump so that when mounted to the engine, it would properly seal and not leak oil. Shown below is that taking place and now I'm ready to move along to the next step:

Here's the same oil pump shown earlier in the thread but now with the mounting surface welded to match the j35a6's oil pumps mating surface.



Next, I had the weld milled down to the mating surface itself and this enables me to finally mount the pump:

 

 

Impressive .