Always good to have the turbo blanket. specially if you are always in boost. It will help everything under the hood last longer.

Really like the wrapping on the piping better as well.
looks much better hiding the flex's.

What are you going to use for tires on that thing ?

I would try to vent the hood someway to get some of the heat out.

 

Any Plans To Improve Traction?

 

I disagree with the SRI being a POS. Initially I got it because I wanted it for power, when that back-fired, I couldn't let it go. Here's a little video, turn up your speakers.


less power + smile on face != POS

 

Thanks for your input Rich.

As for now, I'm running Goodyear Eagle GTs at 10.5" wide. They won't suffice I'm sure as I was already spinning in 1st/2nd before being boosted. But hey, this is a daily driver and its inspected/street legal so I'm okay if I do a bit of spinning in the lower gears.

Not now, no. But I'm sure that issue will resurface. I'm doing one thing at a time here and will do my best at making optimizations in every aspect of the car and its faults.

Your logic is without flaw.

 

Didn't do a whole lot to the car today but managed to start on the wiring for the dual inline fuel pumps. Because each pump draws 9 amps at full flow (which would probably never happen) I decided on replacing the whimpy 14 gauge single circuit power that previously ran the stock 2007 RL fuel pump I modified to work in the Accords tank. And by "replacing", I mean redesigning. The only stock wiring I'll be using is the power that's supplied to the fuel pump control (FPC) module with the ignition on. However, the FPC module will not longer be utilized to control the pumps anymore because the PWM the module uses to control the pump would more than likely cause issues with tuning. This will be replaced with a consistent pressure return line system. Better pressure stability makes for better engine management and accurate tuning for the turbo.

As I said, the FPC module will not control the pump BUT will remain installed and wired in to satisfy the ECM and prevent any DTCs from appearing. Instead of the module controlling an actual pump, I'll simply wire in a high load resistor to meet resistance requirements as well as withstand the heat created by the modules variable voltage/amperage.

Moving along, I basically ran a dedicated fuel pump circuit using two Bosch relays that will be energized by the "on" signal to the FPC module. I ran a 4 gauge cable from the positive post of the battery over to a wall mounted 150 amp resettable breaker. Both relays are wired directly to their own relay and the relay has a 20 amp fuse between it and the stud post of the breaker. Also, I'll be installing a ground bar right near the breaker that will also be ran to the battery to supply a direct sourced ground. This is so that the relays (and fuel pumps) obtain both power and ground with nearly zero voltage drop or resistance between the pump and the battery. Again, over compensating to ensure as little of a failure rate as possible for the fuel system.

I've decided I'd make some sort of a LED lit monitoring board that shows circuit/component status on all primary/significant systems in the car during their operation. If an LED lights red, I will immediately know if there's an issue somewhere in the car and can safely/quickly shut down the engine hopefully before failure occurs to the engine. This will be installed (ideally) where the visor is above the drivers seat. They are directional LEDs so that the full light emission is provided to the tip rather than spread to give better recognition in the daylight hours. The board will have many systems being monitored but its physical size and weight will be hardly anything at. It will be a PIA to make because of all the intricate work and soldering but well worth it.

Relays and breaker box installed in driver side trunk area

 

This really made me laugh. Honda owners don't take traction into consideration, especially when throwing over 500 hp through the front wheels. It is all about number bragging rights and passing people on the highway. Doing burnouts also counts.

My flame suit is on. This comment was not directed at any one individual.

 

Don't forget about being able to essentially do burnouts on the freeway at >80 mph. (Don't try this at home kids..)

 

^^^
I agree with the two above.

If I were building a track car, I would've chosen a much better platform to do so on. This is merely for fun and after all, it is my daily driver.

Have a magnesium TSX 3.5 intake and j32a3 valve covers that I'll be powder coating tonight satin black to be used. It's amazing how light these intakes are and the magnesium j35 intake is even lighter than the j37 (TL 3.7) intake.

Tracking number says ID1000 injectors and Hondata FlashPro should be arriving tonight so should be able to get everything installed tomorrow for testing and try and finish up the remaining fuel system components. Also, I must find somebody here local today to mill the spacer down for the added height of the fuel rails. Got my second AFR gauge last night and also my adjustable fpr too. Almost there...

 

I Just Asked Because This Guy Does Some Pretty Unique Things And Has some Great Fab Skills. Not Sure I Get What you're Getting At.

 

All we're getting as is that we don't do it for the lap times, 1/4 mile times, hell, even 0-60 times. We do the mods that we do because there's absolutely nothing like getting behind the wheel of a 500+ hp car and letting it do what it does best; period. A car that is just so insane, it defies all practicality from most people's stand point. Something where, you mash the gas pedal, and even if it goes nowhere, you just laugh your ass off because of the sheer lunacy of it.

 

I vote for a turbo blanket

I will be using one myself

Oh and I can help him pick tires when he is ready that will get great traction along with rear speed sensors and all that good stuff

 

Just to clarify, Matt (HickamHatch) is the guy with the fabricating skills. He is the one who made the turbo setup on the car and even did the install. I'm just a lost, lonely guy who can only build/swap motors and do complicated wiring conversions. Although, I am currently honing metal working/welding/fabrication skills. Pretty soon, Matt will be buying turbo manifolds from me...yeah, THAT good.

This quote shall be seen in the history books in the many decades to come.

I forgot that Hondata offers traction control. Hmm, I'll have to see how it works but I'm sure they optimized it for performance over anything else. I use to laugh at my 03 TL-S tcs system. When it engaged, it would bog down the engine way below the point of regaining traction and would jolt the entire vehicle like crazy.

The most effective tcs system I've ever felt was on a ZR1 and you could feel it engage but the vehicle would still accelerate with such quickness. No sudden jolts or shocks. Smooth transitioning regardless if wheel slippage was detected or not. Better technology and faster CAN communication networks dramatically help with this in the newer cars.

 

Oh I wasn't laughing at you gnuts. You asked a legitimate question. I could just kind of tell from the build style that traction is not a priority. With more traction you would need beefier axles, transmission, etc. It is another can of worms waiting to be open. Making sure the turbo setup functions and runs properly would be the focus now I would say.

 

***Updizzle!!!***

1000cc injectors & connectors- INSTALLED!

Aeromotive adjustable FPR- INSTALLED

Braided steel fuel supply hose- INSTALLED

Dual AEM wideband gauges & sensors- INSTALLED

OBX high flow fuel rails- INSTALLED

Valve covers/magnesium intake powder coating- ALMOST COMPLETE

Wrapped and coated turbo setup- REINSTALLED

Milled intake manifold spacer- DROPPED OFF

Meth injection kit- PAID IN FULL

Top secret front end conversion- INITIATED

HUH!!!









Bottles and lines for FMIC fogger system


Dual high flow inlines ready for mounting...


0-100psi electronic fuel pressure gauge

 

I think you should install an EVO spoiler for ricer status...or is that too much provocation...

 

You know, with my ass end being so light, that may be JUST what I needed all along. Ricer status FTW

 

Leave the river wing for me. I already have mine

 

You little "rice cake" you!

 

Oh my......beast mode is rapidly approaching.

 

Bad news everyone, no Hondata until Monday. That means no tuning this weekend as I was hoping for. So I get a whole other week of prep time. Guess that could be a good thing.

Got alot finished this week on the car but have some to go still:
1. Run larger return fuel line
2. Fuel pump relay wiring
3. Complete fuel cell install
4. Run low pressure hose from fuel cell to pumps
5. Install electronic fuel pressure gauge

I may do more now that I have another week but those are the necessities.

 

holy shit cakes !!!



brother I might drive down to TX to only ride in that car....am serious !!! its gonna be an absolute ANIMAL !!!

 

^what he said
after 2 years on the 6thgenaccord forum ive never seen an accord built like this, im glad youre actually investing this much time and money into an accord, theyre overlooked too often and are actually a great platform for modding and dont hold titles like ricebox/cheap/streetracer like a civic does. not to flood you with questions but, how do you like the height of the rsx seats? i just picked up a set and had a feeling i could just weld the accord brackets on it.
what sort of power are you expecting with mid/high boost? and got any tranny plans if the auto cant handle it? btw good choice on RL brakes, i honestly think those with the 350z rotors and some SS lines are up to par with the willwood/brembo kits for half the price.

 

The RSX seats are much more firm and have a better "hug" that seems to contour your body much better. That, of course, helps by keeping you effortlessly stationary while focusing on the road/ vehicle. I LOVE them to be totally honest. Be prepared though when doing the swap because the brackets are bolted, riveted, and welded in place. Having a thin metal wheel on a high speed grinder helped a great deal. Make sure you marks and distances are spot on before setting in the welds after tacking. Also, its important to ensure that each of the four mounts are both horizontally and vertically positioned correctly because if not, the seat will not slide back and forth smoothly.

As for boost/expected gains, I'm not really sure but I would LIKE to have 550whp minimum. I'm sure that equates to somewhere along 12-14psi (guess) and I have heard that the j32a3 struggles on anything above 10psi as far as the detonation and rods go but the j35a8 is supposedly precision balanced (the RL motor not sure about the TL-S, mine is the RL) and also the bottom end is said to be (according to acuranews.com) have forged bottom end components and that includes the pistons. I personally have seen casting marks on the RL pistons but then again, the 2012 TL 3.7 is known to have forged aluminum pistons and they have casting marks also. Maybe there's something we don't know in their engineering.

I doubt it will happen but if the transmission ever fails, I will definitely go with a 6MT. I don't regret not doing the 6MT but it would be fun.

***UPDATE*** (yes, again)

Finally finished powder coating the valve covers and intake manifold this morning. Everything came out absolutely perfect and couldn't have been more impressed with the outcome after pieces were installed. I've mentioned that an Odyssey J35 intake spacer was going to have to be used in order to raise the manifold up over the OBX fuel rails that were originally for a J32A2 not a J35A8. The thickness of the spacer ended up being milled at approx 3/8" and again, worked perfectly. This enabled me to finally reassemble the engine itself. Here's a few shots for of the valve covers and manifold before being installed:




And then after both valve covers and the intake were reinstalled


And here's the spacer (I believe it was originally 1.5" tall) AFTER being milled down to 3/8" for manifold to fuel rail clearance


And then a shot of the manifold after being set back onto the spacer

 

dang, looks like you're almost there. and thanks for the advice, several accord owners said that when they modded the rsx seats to fit, the seat was raised a good bit higher(like they had to adjust the wheel all the way up) than the stock seat height. but they mightve mounted them differently and how much it affects you really depends on your height lol

 

How do most usually do the swap? I've seen things like conversion brackets being sold so if they're using things like this than it could be affecting the overall height I suppose...maybe? I don't know, just guessing...

 

effin SICK !!!!

Love it Robert !!!

 

Just unbolt the end brackets from the 2nd gen cl or tl seats and install them on the rsx seats.

Everything looks good. I would paint the coil pack covers black tho, the orange doesn't look good to me.

After 13 years of online research into the accord and all you hear about it is that it is a bad handling chassis unlike other honda chassis. These statements have nothing to back them up though besides lack of aftermarket support.

 

I out handle cars with 1.5k worth of suspension , stickier tires, and 1,000 pounds lighter with my cl on ebay coils so I find it to be a great chassis .

 

As i'm sure it's the same for you Rob, still waiting on friggen parts!

Going on almost two months of being down lol

As always, you work is inspiration for others to follow suite

 

I plan on fading the orange theme out and do all black. Black everything. And yes, black coils too.

I couldn't agree more. For what these platforms are, they do well. Especially the CL/Accord coupes. Add weight reduction, stiffer sway bars, coil overs, wider wheels/tires and you have a decent handling, fun to drive car. Granted, there's many more platforms that would outperform this car. But what other car can invest nickels and dimes into and still have a smile at the end of every trip?

Baleeee dat playa!

Tell me about it dude. Every time I think I'm about to go get it tuned, something else has to be ordered delaying the process. It's ok though because when she hits the pavement, she's READY!

Here's a few pics from recent work/progress:














As you can see, basically small detail work. Wired up power/ground distribution center in rear. Matched throttle body and cool charge tube to valve covers and intake. Completed ALL fuel system wiring and went overboard with system safety and protection. Both pumps are wired about as perfect as they could get to ensure long life and reliability. Intake is fully installed with ALL hardware. Hopefully I get to pressure check the fuel system tomorrow and if there's no leaks, she's finally ready.

Still waiting on meth kit to arrive and also may be doing something custom for all the extra nitrous crap I have for the turbo system. And I'm still trying to figure out the front end conversion. More to come, stay tuned everyone. Thanks for the support!

 

Oh, and just received this too...

 

Back when JTTC was around with the 300hp mark, the accords ruled all (they ran up against rwd classes as well). Its why i'm in love with the 1st gen cl, because i knew there was hidden potential others didnt recognize.

Its not till JGTC replaced JTTC with that 500+hp mark that obviously pretty much null the ability for the fwd classes to compete with the rwd/awd classes.

One of my favs <3




Really wish I found you before leaving Texas yungone. Your work is exactly the kind of support I was looking for out there but never came across it. Beautiful, clean, and hella functional. Keep it up.

 

Hey my man, missed your comment earlier. And by the way, you can swing by the shop and kick it with me (or the car) anytime brother! You just say the word.

That's one helluva an Accord man! Sweet.

And thanks for the compliment Cocoa! You don't do too bad of a job yourself with that 1st gen you have there. As a matter of fact, your car was a big inspiration to my Accord in regards to gutting and my hopefully soon to come roll cage. But I agree, I wished we could've met before you left. I've seen your commitment and heart for cars and I admire your kind. Thanks again.

 

JTCC* correction to my original post.

Thanks for the compliment. I can say the same about your project, absolutely inspirational. Nothing I love seeing more than a J series in the right chassis screaming past and stunning their opponent.

 

Robert...not only you are a very technical and "know your shit" kinda guy but you are a great person too man....

I think I have made a decision....lets do this am sending you an email in a few

 

Hell yea, getting there man..alllllmost. When I saw the pic of the interior, though i've seen it before, I caught myself just looking down, laughing aloud with my hand on my forehead thinking...its an absolute fucking racecar now. And that's just my style!! All hail Pioneer Robert! Looking forward to chatting with you some more in the near future regarding my turbo CL...until then, excited for startup! I mean takeoff

 

Sounds good man. Looking forward to it.

 

am still sending the email

hahah...my idiot self, totally forgot....

 

not a totally appropriate question but...how much money and time have you invested so far in this project?

I understand you can't put a cost on a stealth jet fighter, but I am just curious.

Also started wondering what a 3.8 Hyundai engine can put out with a turbo...don't tell my wife.

 

And still waiting....

Slightly over $10k so far. That's including all that Matt's done so far and the cost of parts for everything else. Hell, that's even including the cost of the car itself!