Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Somehow, with 81k on the odometer of my 03 CL-S 6 speed, Cylinder #1 is only throwing 25psi of compression. We can get in and dig, and see if it's a rod, or the valves, or something odd - or say screw it and start with a fresh J32A2.

I need to retain daily driveability, and I have an S2000 for weekend frustration absorbtion, but I also like the CL to get down - and I'm going to go ahead and build the new motor up with all the toys while it's out of the engine bay.

Currently I have the original AEM full CAI, and some "Spoon Sports" labeled headers that are of questionable quality.

Here's what I know frees up some power

Pulleys - but which ones to get - and where to get them?
Thermal Intake Manifold gaskets - but which ones to get and where to get them?
Throttle Body space - but which to get...you get it...

Clutch, flywheel, high flow direct bolt on cat, and catback.

I'm looking for mainly, where to snag all these goodies relatively quickly, and any other suggested goodies you might know about. I was also contemplating taking the intake manifold off the soon to be defunct motor and sending it out for a port'n'polish.

Input with answers is most welcome - I have no idea where to pick this stuff up at and it keeps getting more scarce...

I'd love to score a set of comptech headers, a B pipe, and a full Comptech exhaust....

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

We will have dyno graphs posted in another thread about an intake manifold swap, so I wouldnt go with a p&p on the stocker. I would p&p the lower manifold though. Also look into a 71mm throttle body from P2R. I sugggest the Option pulley off of ebay. Its $25 shipped not including belts, and its great quality. If it were me, Id do the 3.5l conversion now since the motor is pulled.

Aftermarket parts are just starting to gain some traction for the J series, and if you take a quick through Hondas parts bin you could find some nice parts as well.

It sucks that your compression is so low. Its most likely rings, valve seals, or possibly your head gasket. No point in getting a new motor if your just going to do this work to it anyway.

camaroracer016

3.5 swap!

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

How hard is the 3.5 swap? Concerns about ECU and immobilizer? I can probably locate a j32a2 low mileage for $500-$1000....now a newer J35 - not so sure?

Logic being - I don't want to be driving my S2000 all over town and I have a 90 mile daily commute when I have to go to the office, so I don't want my daily down more than a couple weeks. Tons of time and $200-$300 in parts to correct what you SEE is wrong with an engine vs buying something in good order and slamming it in.

Is the power plenum worth the coin? Are the thermal gaskets much account? The $105 or so for the gasket package isn't absurd....but is it going to net 5-10hp across the powerband or just a peak gain of a few ponies under high temperature conditions?

What clutch to run / flywheel to run on an N/A lightly modded car?

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

Not a lot of people are ecstatic about the power plenum...for the money.

3.5 swap isn't that difficult (from what I read) and has been successfully done a bunch of times now.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

how did the engine mess up anyways? the J32A2 is pretty solid.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

That's the million dollar question I guess. I'm a solid maintainer - 3500-4000 on Mobil 1 Full Synthetic - Lucas Cleaner at every oil change - Plugs every 30k and attention to every rattle as needed. I am the 2nd owner of the car, but it never used more than the normal 1/4 - 1/2 qt of oil every 4k so I think it was solid enough.

The engine runs and rotates - I drove it 45 miles to my friend's home as he's got a lift, hoists, and all the goodies, and it was solid enough to get there. Nothing binding bad enough for that to be a problem.

No oil in the antifreeze, no antifreeze in the oil, no burning coolant stench. Head gasket would indicate it's okay - also leaking no fluids.

I'd speculate that it's as simple as a retainer letting go and binding up, but there really isn't any chatter going on from the valvetrain more than normal either.

Even with it running like that, it wasn't burning oil or leaving any smoke - making me think the rings and lower cylinder assemblies are all fine - and it is getting fuel and fire so it would be blasting some oil if things weren't seated...

Friend is a 30 year experienced Honda dealer mechanic - he said he's never seen the J series do that - ever. Luck of the draw I suppose.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

I'm trying to complete my shopping list today:

1. Pulleys - Razco set? These always recover a little juice - a must.
2. Gaskets - P2R vs. XLR8 ? Or pointless?
3. Clutch/Fly - What to buy? A nice full face, sprung hub disc and stiff - but not "walk the crank matey's" plate is what I'm after. I've always been partial to the ACT Street/Strip setups.
4. Throttle Body Spacer?
5. High Flow Cat - this is a must - but what to get?
6. Cat-Back exhaust - no axle backs - but what to get?
7. Larger Bore Throttle bodies are all well and good - but pointless unless port matched. Has anyone done the 71mm (isn't the stock 68 or 70 already?) and port matched everything? I'd see this good for maybe a throttle response loss - and only dyno measurable torque gain in the mid range?
8. Anyone got 6 speed friendly CT headers they want to part with?

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I just installed a spacer kit by outlaw engineering.
Its a TB and IM spacer there is a dyno on there website that says it gained 5HP through the board and 8 Peak to the wheels..
I noticed the car runs better but i also cleaned out a tennis ball size of grit tar substance from the IM and egr port!

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

You dont need a new motor for the 3.5 build, and the parts cost about $1000.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-frequently-asked-questions-52/3-5-liter-hybrid-build-information-714305/

New crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings and other seals you may want to replace. Theres nothing to worry about with the immobilizer, thats built into the key and the car itself. You should get it tuned though, and an Emanage will do the trick for that.

Check out this thread for the manifold, no need for the plenums, just the thermal gaskets (optional), ported throttle body (optional) and the throttle body adapter from P2R which acts like a spacer, so you dont need that.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/possible-new-mod-728942/

BUT, if you dont want to do that as getting that manifold may take awhile (read: SCARCE), I have my old P2R throttle body spacer and one thermal gasket (I need the other one) that is coming out. Let me know if you want it.

Clutches and flywheels is a touchy subject with out cars. Ive not seen anyone post about any long term result of the Clutchmaster clutch/flywheel combo. That seems to be the best bet, as long as it works properly.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Thought you might be talking about stroking it to 3.5. It's a DD - if I were going to start putting that effort into anything, it would be to build a 2JZ for my S2000...

All the bolt ons to a low mile motor should get me to the 250-260 whp range if what I'm reading is correct. In a CL, that's enough getty up to keep it interesting.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

But 300 is more interesting

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I know KY is a bit of a distance from FL, but Sean at P2R has a few J32A2s for sale.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have experience with the Magnaflow 27403 cat converter? Is it 5-10 across the band HP without major torque loss - and is it worth the $200 ?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i have one for sale magnaflow HFC check the link in my signature.

is the 3.5 conversion worth that 1000$? whats the gains compare to 3.2 ?

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Also, would anyone recommend a short-shifter? A clutch? I'm just looking for feedback on things before I pull the trigger on these purchases

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I think the torque is worth it. Even though my brothers Accord 6MT technically makes less power then me, his car is faster because of the torque.

PSpec short shifter. There will be some trimming of the shifter surround though, but it is so you have clearance for reverse. You dont see any of the trimming once installed. Its height and throw adjustable. I love mine. Dont forget CorSport aluminum shift cable bushings.

Mine:

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

how difficult is to instal this shortshifter? and how much time does it take ? any hints how to do that ?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

An hour at most. The instructions are on the PSpec website.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Either it fits out of the box, or it beclomes a liability / PITA down the road. Modifying goodies and fabricating a weekend or race car, I'm all about it. When I have something I need to run every day correctly when I need to drive it, I veer away from the "tinsnips and dremel" approach.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Youre shaving alittle plastic from non-movable parts on the console, not the shifter. Ive had mine for over 20k miles with no issues. No rubbing, no squeeking, no odd noises. Its perfect. If you dont want to do that short shifter, you can try to find the Neuspeed "short shifter", but you need to do some trimming for that too.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Razco crank and accessory pulleys, P2R CL-S Test Pipe, P2R Intake manifold gasket, P2R Throttle Body Spacer, P2R Throttle Body Gasket, and Clutch Masters Stage 1 Clutch / Flywheel all purchased today.

Still seeking: Comptech Headers and Cat back or axle back exhaust. Any deals?

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

ct headers u just have to keep looking. as for exhaust, u can get a 2nd gen tl or 6th gen accord and have it modified to fit. its only 2 cuts and 2 or 4 welds. depending on application.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

So you got the CM clutch. Cool. Keep us updated on that one. Id love to see how they hold up in our car.

I thought you couldnt use the lightweight crank pulley with a lightweight flywheel?

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Lightweight crank + Lightweight Fly would be desireable I'd think - but would be very good to know about if this is a problem?

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

always been a myth because only one person posted the problem. was it stock-sized or underdrive pulley?

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

I'm 99% sure they are the same diameter just less material. I looked at an Unorthodox set and they were smaller - Not crazy about that idea on the daily.

The Razco full set shipped ended up being $169 or so - not too bad.

I see that P2R also offers ported intake manifolds and I'm thinking about asking them to add that to my order as well. Has anyone tried them?

Found a 60k J32A2 in town today for $1000 delivered. Lots of TL motors, just not lots of Type S motors available.

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

u can get the ralco pulley set (underdrive or stock-size) on egay for less than $100. make an offer for less than 100 they'll accept... seriously just try $60 if not counter offer 90.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Theres really no need for the other pulleys aside from the crank, and the Option pulley is $25 shipped on eBay. Its underdrive though, which isnt a problem at all on a daily. I have a 600watt stereo in my car and I have not had a problem in over two months since the install.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Bought the $1000 64k motor today. Should be in this weekend. Keeping the old one to explore punching it out .30 over and perhaps some DI sleeves and forged internals. If my math is right, you SHOULD be able to bore/stroke the j32a2 out to 3.86 liters without compromising wall thickness terribly, and without overstroking a higher revving V6. This would be an optimal situation to build an engine for boost, but a low priority. Still, intriguing.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Read the thread on here about not using the lightweight crank pulley with the lightweight flywheel. The concensus SEEMS to be that the pressure plate is the weak spot, and I have ordered the Clutchmasters Flywheel, Pressure Plate, and Disc - none of which are the factory unit with paint. I'm skeptical as to this being a problem. I have run a lightweight Fidanza flywheel and lightweight crank pulley on my S2000 that I drive extremely hard - and not had issues, but it also isn't a dualmass car....

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea, logic seems to point to there being no issues with it. Only one way to tell.

The dual mass flywheel was intended to aid in shifting, but it really isnt needed (and I despise it). I overlooked the fact that the pressure plate in the CT kit was an OEM unit.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

I'd think this would have come up with the accord v6 guys as well; it's basically the same car/motor/trans/powertrain

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

Schweeeet!

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Used Tanabe cat-back for $450 shipped. Am I going to gain any power across the band or is it completely an audio thing? Comptech's claim was always that the cat-back didn't do anything....

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

With a Cat-Back you'll gain power...it's the Axle-Backs that won't do anything except for change the exhaust note.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

see - Comptech's argument was pretty much exactly the opposite. They claim 6-8 WHP off the axle-backs, and that the B-PIPE and CatBacks made no difference.

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

^ Well...I double-checked CT-Engineering's site and they don't sell the Cat-Back any longer it looks like but...

Exhaust - Stainless Axleback (01-03 CL, CL-S)

Rear Muffler Sections (pair)
Fully polished Stainless-Steel mufflers with 3.5" Stainless-Steel Resonated tips
Adds a smooth, low, aggressive tone, and approximately 6-8 wheel hp
Cat-back exhaust systems have been tested and do NOT make more power
Application: 01-03 Acura CL and CL Type-S
Installation Time: 1 hour +/-

So it looks like you're right.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

Company called me today that I ordered the motor from and said, "got good news and bad news"

Bad news - your motor isn't here yet because I cancelled the order
Good news - I cancelled the order because I just found you a 14,000 mile motor out of an 03, and I got it instead.

Hopefully it still has that new motor smell. That's barely a 3rd oil change.