Warming car in the AM
#1
Racer
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Warming car in the AM
So from searching, it doesn't appear that we can have the car on and lock the doors from the ouside unless we have a second set of keys and lock it manually.
Basically, its getting cold, and no one in a 20mile radius of me will install a remote start on a manual trans...sucks that the people with zero common sense ruined it for all of us. I had the Solaris system by Clifford on my 98 5-speed cherokee but when DEI took them over they stopped making it.
In any case, has anyone else found a better way of warming their car in the morning (or anytime for that matter) and keeping it locked?
Thankx.
Basically, its getting cold, and no one in a 20mile radius of me will install a remote start on a manual trans...sucks that the people with zero common sense ruined it for all of us. I had the Solaris system by Clifford on my 98 5-speed cherokee but when DEI took them over they stopped making it.
In any case, has anyone else found a better way of warming their car in the morning (or anytime for that matter) and keeping it locked?
Thankx.
#5
Blackbird baby..
you're better off letting it run for 30-60secs then driving it. it'll warm up best that way.. i've always heard/read idling isn't good (cat converter, etc).
#7
Doin' da crack shuffle
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Originally Posted by DivineCL
Yeah, turn your car on inside the garage with every door closed.
Then just lay back and take a 10 minute nap.
Then just lay back and take a 10 minute nap.
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#8
Doin' da crack shuffle
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Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
Compustar makes one for a manual. You need to get it installed by them though.
They do but any reputable place should be able to do it though.
#9
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I don't know but last month I locked myself out of my car at the car wash near my house. The car was running. I was pissed. I must have locked the doors while I was cleaning the door then shut it. Are these cars supposed to let you do that?
#10
Dragging knees in
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Originally Posted by jsendre
I don't know but last month I locked myself out of my car at the car wash near my house. The car was running. I was pissed. I must have locked the doors while I was cleaning the door then shut it. Are these cars supposed to let you do that?
Next, I left the door closed with the car running and the window down, and locked it. It remained locked (of course... it's the same thing as sitting in the car and locking the door; the computer just can't tell the difference).
#11
Outnumbered at home
Locked myself out one day warming the car. Worst part was being so happy that i remembered that i had another key fob in the house. Ran in to get it. Back to the car.
DAMN doesn't work. That sucked. Must have lost about 15 bucks in gas before the key guy came.
From then on I don't warm it up unless I am sitting in it.
DAMN doesn't work. That sucked. Must have lost about 15 bucks in gas before the key guy came.
From then on I don't warm it up unless I am sitting in it.
#13
Outnumbered at home
Originally Posted by rcz22
how were you able to lock yourself out? At least if that were the case with me i could call onstar and have them unlock my doors.
Yeah onstar or a keypad on the outside would have been clutch.
#14
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Also be aware you can not lock the doors manually & have the alarm not arm. I wanted to do this when the hurricanes came through. Since I have a shock sensor I didn't want the high winds setting it off. I unlocked it, opened both doors, press the lock down on each door & closed them. Sure enough after 60 seconds the alarm light went on. I tested it by taping on the car & the alarm went off.
#15
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Originally Posted by PavDog
you're better off letting it run for 30-60secs then driving it. it'll warm up best that way.. i've always heard/read idling isn't good (cat converter, etc).
That's what I do as well.... 30 seconds or so... then drive, keeping the RPMs low until the car warms up. I've also read a bunch of stuff saying idling is not good for the car... so I just do the 30 sec and off thing....
#16
Dude
Originally Posted by juniorbean
That's what I do as well.... 30 seconds or so... then drive, keeping the RPMs low until the car warms up. I've also read a bunch of stuff saying idling is not good for the car... so I just do the 30 sec and off thing....
Dave.
#17
Dragging knees in
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Originally Posted by dave_88
Learned something new today. i've always had the habit of lettin the car idle for about 10 mins. and then goin, now knowing that it's bad, i think i'll cut back on the time.
Dave.
Dave.
Also, a cold engine consumes more gas, so that's why they advise you to only warm up for like 30 seconds then drive off.
However, I am still not fully convinced. Yeah, I worry about the environment, but it's not detrimental if I sat there and warmed up my car for another minute.
Also, I would rather consume more gas and let it warm up more, than revving up a cold engine driving around. The bearings, cylinder rings, whatever, is not up to the operating temperature, not to mention the oil, failing to provide full protection.
If I'm in a hurry, I wait 'til the V-AFC II reads 900 RPM or below... if I'm not in a hurry, then I wait 'til the temperature gauage reaches the first mark.
This is what my dad has done with all of his cars his entire life, and not a single one of them has given us engine trouble. Good enough for me. Remember that cold starts are what kill engines. I am definitely not driving on a cold engine. Even in the summer, I let the car warm up for a few minutes so the oil has time to circulate, and that the engine is closer to its normal op. temp.
#20
Adventurist.
Originally Posted by Zippee
How is letting the car warm up for a couple of minutes bad for it?
Now, you ask me if the whole process is negligible. Probably, yes. The damages are not damages that you see immediately, or even ever. The point is, why take the chance? We check our oil, PS fluid, brake fluid, etc. etc. as preventative measures even though we put faith in our vehicle that there is no leaks or holes, etc. We should put those same measures in our car engine, microscopic wear and tear because of inadequate oil to the right areas can lead to problems down the road. Everyone has their own belief system in their "religious" type operation of their cars, but some things just can't be ignored, which is the first 30 seconds of starting your engine.
Do a search, I spent several pages discussing this topic months ago.
#22
Adventurist.
Here is my post from several months ago:
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
I beg to differ. All modern cars do not require you to warm up your car, that doesn't mean floor it out of the garage. It is necessary to move your car ASAP when starting it b/c you need to get the oil to the parts that run-dry when your car sits idle overnight, etc.
Btw, it's in the manual.
-----------------
proper for moderate winter temps (like near freezing) is about 30-45 seconds of idle, then gently drive off, keeping the LOAD and RPM's down (ie dont lug it, dont rev the piss out of it). don't drive hard unless you want your oil seals to blow out from high oil pressure during the cold period.
for summer temps, you drive off immediately.
It is VERY bad to idle your car for 5 minutes. Unless absolutely necessary for safety (ie can't get windows de-iced,wont idle).
The least amount of time your car spends under 180F CTS (195F is ideal running temps) the less engine wear occurrs.
The motor does not have a load at idle, thus spends alot more time cold.
The extra gas (overfueling enrichment) ends up fouling the oil, unburnt gases carbon foul, gas in oil,booya etc
It's very simple, its been in just bout every car owners manual i've read.
Idling cold starts = 90% of the cold emissions in the world i'd guess.
like i said above, read the car manual.
Btw, it's in the manual.
-----------------
proper for moderate winter temps (like near freezing) is about 30-45 seconds of idle, then gently drive off, keeping the LOAD and RPM's down (ie dont lug it, dont rev the piss out of it). don't drive hard unless you want your oil seals to blow out from high oil pressure during the cold period.
for summer temps, you drive off immediately.
It is VERY bad to idle your car for 5 minutes. Unless absolutely necessary for safety (ie can't get windows de-iced,wont idle).
The least amount of time your car spends under 180F CTS (195F is ideal running temps) the less engine wear occurrs.
The motor does not have a load at idle, thus spends alot more time cold.
The extra gas (overfueling enrichment) ends up fouling the oil, unburnt gases carbon foul, gas in oil,booya etc
It's very simple, its been in just bout every car owners manual i've read.
Idling cold starts = 90% of the cold emissions in the world i'd guess.
like i said above, read the car manual.
#23
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Simply because oil will not reach the critical places in the engine during a cold startup......
Comparing this to a dry sump system which uses an external oil reservoir which pulls oil from the sump AND the engine and properly circulates the oil to the critical parts of the engine using an independent pump.
Although, with a wet sump system, you can rely on engine pressure even if the vacuum pump fails, which is only safe if you move your car and warm it up quicker than just let it sit there.
#25
Burning Brakes
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If you live close to philly i would recommend you my friend since he drives a 97 m3 manual with remote start alarm system. PM me if your interested and i'll just give him a buzz.
#27
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I never warm up the car more then a minute or two.
I just watch the rev’s for the first mile or so. I try to shift at about 2,500 RPM.
I have a garage at home, but it’s detached and the heat is turned off unless I’m out there working.
This morning at 6AM it was 17-Degrees outside. It was 25 inside the garage.
Started her up and idle for about 60 seconds then back out of the garage.
The car sits outside at the office.
When I leave work on a really cold day I just let the car idle a minute or two while I put on my seatbelt & fire up the stereo.
Then I take it easy for a bit.
This is what’s been working for me….
I just watch the rev’s for the first mile or so. I try to shift at about 2,500 RPM.
I have a garage at home, but it’s detached and the heat is turned off unless I’m out there working.
This morning at 6AM it was 17-Degrees outside. It was 25 inside the garage.
Started her up and idle for about 60 seconds then back out of the garage.
The car sits outside at the office.
When I leave work on a really cold day I just let the car idle a minute or two while I put on my seatbelt & fire up the stereo.
Then I take it easy for a bit.
This is what’s been working for me….
#30
Adventurist.
I would say both are bad if not kept under control. Defnitely don't rev the piss out of the car when cold and don't load the car either in one gear at the same RPM for long periods of time. This is hard especially if you live in a hilly region.
#31
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
I'm not discussing this because I've done it a thousand times, all questions you ask have been answered.
#32
East Coast Boost.!
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Just get someone to put the remote start in for you and then a little magic and it will work. I don't know about this myth of remote starts and manuals, but there are no extra parts involved in the process. It takes all of 5 minutes to hook it up.
#33
Adventurist.
Originally Posted by Zippee
Haven't found a thousand threads from you, but did find one other one. Neither answers my questions.
#34
TQ > MPG
My dad literally warms up his van (with 200k miles btw) for 1/2 hr in the morning when its cold out. He gets free gas and doesnt want to sit in a cold ass van on the way to work. The engine runs fine, and like I said has 200k+ miles.
I say fuck sitting in a cold ass car, on cold ass seats, holding a cold ass steering wheel. I'm not saying I like it get 80* inside before I rive it, but I usually let it get to the 1st tick on the coolant temp guage before I drive off. I'm sure driving off immediately is ok also, as long as you dont drive it like a madman until its at operating temp.
BTW has anyone else noticed their engine running rougher at idle when they start it in a garage compared to outside? Recently mine has felt like its hesitating when I have a cold start in the garage (of course the doors open), and it smooths out like normal after a minute or two. When its parked outside it starts up normally, with no roughness.
I say fuck sitting in a cold ass car, on cold ass seats, holding a cold ass steering wheel. I'm not saying I like it get 80* inside before I rive it, but I usually let it get to the 1st tick on the coolant temp guage before I drive off. I'm sure driving off immediately is ok also, as long as you dont drive it like a madman until its at operating temp.
BTW has anyone else noticed their engine running rougher at idle when they start it in a garage compared to outside? Recently mine has felt like its hesitating when I have a cold start in the garage (of course the doors open), and it smooths out like normal after a minute or two. When its parked outside it starts up normally, with no roughness.
#35
Cost Drivers!!!!
i've done both short waits and long waits. Car feels better after long waits. Say what you want about idling etc., I can't drive like a turtle in morning traffic. I wait until the revs have fallen to approx 900Rpms and there is 1 tick on the temp
#36
Drifting
if you got navi and a manual or wutever you can jsut start it and lock the doors... when your ready call onstar and have em unlock it for ya... might at well put that thing to use.
#38
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
ehh... so... didn't look hard enough.
#39
Adventurist.
Read my post again... I never said a dry sump system has a vacuum pump... a wet sump system does:
A dry sump system can circulate oil more efficiently, hmm, I wonder why race cars use this versus wet sump.
Again, read the car manual.
Typical Dry Sump, NO vacuum pump:
Wet sump /w pump:
Geezus, pick an argument carefully.
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Although, with a wet sump system, you can rely on engine pressure even if the vacuum pump fails, which is only safe if you move your car and warm it up quicker than just let it sit there.
Again, read the car manual.
Typical Dry Sump, NO vacuum pump:
Wet sump /w pump:
Geezus, pick an argument carefully.
#40
Adventurist.
Originally Posted by jtkz13
Now these car starters designed for manuals, I assume there is a neutral safety switch of some sort? Any more info on them?