allmotor_2000

Maybe someone else has this problem and knows a cure. Lately when I press the 'down' volume, the volume actually goes up?!? And when I press the 'up' volume the channel changes... I thought it might be dirt or something, but its somewhat annoying!

clsironhead

my just started to trip out but it only happends when the steering wheel is slightly to the left. i press the up volume and it changes stations or tracks

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Yeah mine did that.
Dealer dimpled some metal contact ring & it works fine now. There was a TSB on it. I'll have to check my invoice & see if it is listed.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

I've had this same exact problem! I press mode and it'll increase/decrease volume. I'll press volume up and the radio station changes, i"ll press down volume and the volume goes up. Very annoying. I still haven't figured out what it is.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

Please do, I'd like to see what the heck that is, because I told the dealer about that a long time ago and they didn't know what the problem is. And of course they don't inform you of the TSB's until you ? something wrong with your car

KahRupt-CL-S03

Same exact thing happend to mine, at first I thought the contacts were a bit dirty so I took it appart and that didn't work, I changed my HU so that solved my problem

allmotor_2000

It's pathetic if the HU needs to be changed.. hope that is not it. Maybe I'll
contact the dealer although I am > 50K miles!

anothercls

I have had the same problem, dealer was notified, but nothing was resolved. I have no desire to tell them to fix it again. I go in for server every 30k miles, so it will be another 8months before I go back. This does not include oil changes that I do myself, in case someone was wondering.

dfv3.2CL-S

iTrader: (1)

Just take it to the dealer. It seem to be a common problem with the steering wheel volume control on Acura and Honda. It happen to my wife's Odyssey and my 03 CL-S

Type S Zero

like the upper posts say, there's a tsb for this.
tsb's that are not critical for your safety won't get to you through mail. when it's safety issues, you get a letter from honda-acura.

tsb are there when a situation gets repeated regularly on a same model so honda-acura send tsb in dealerships so the techs know what's the problem and how to solve it instead of consuming time trying to find it for the firsts times.

we only started doing this since last spring (we didn't get that problem before that). it seems that our clients didn't have problems with that before last spring.

for those who want to do it yourself, you have to take the steering wheel off, take off the steering covers, take the cable reel off (BE CAREFUL not to turn it ! it will have to be installed in the exact same position or you will rip off the cables making your first full turn on left or right depending wich way you turned it), combo switches assembly off and when you get to that copper ring around the steering column, you have to punch it gently with a flat screwdriver so the ring will have a better contact with the part under it. you punch it at several places around (like 6~10). if you punch it too hard, your steering might be harder to turn after that. reinstall the combo switches assembly, cable reel (aligned pins to 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock), install steering wheel aligning cable reel pins in steering holes and finally install airbag.

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

Mine stopped working on my 1st gen a long time ago. I got use to not having it......

Goodluck with the issue...

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

Look who's still lurking about! How have you been doing?

extremetls

allmotor... i have an aftermarket headunit so i never use the steering wheel buttons. if you want, i'd be happy to trade you straight up for yours. PM me if you are interested.

6speedctrlfreak

This happened on my 2003 CLS and I noticed it happens when the steering wheel is rotated in either extreme right or left direction. Seems like that has something to do with it Hasn't happened alot though

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, my invoice doesn't have the TSB # it only says...
"dimple metal contact ring as per TSB"

R J Poseidon 6

It is common & they dealer can fix it no prob.....

BC2G

mine has always done that, thats why i stick to using the steering wheel

also, i think u gotta do it slow for it to work right

allmotor_2000

Thanks... doing well. I just got back from vacation on Friday and now its all home-project stuff!

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

Welcome back! Project stuff in the new home? I'm addding a garage and apartment here and staying busy with that. Getting the plans drawn, permits pulled, and then farm it out to the lowest bidder is quite time consuming.

the car is doing well. I had a knock detector and apexi avcr put on it and have been playing with the boost. I also changed the tial spring to the yellow, 4.6psi spring. I added a bunch of fuel and pulled a bunch of timing and was able to get 10psi in 3rd gear. didn't try 4th gear. afr was at 10.5-8 approx. the problem is the stock injectors. even at 6 psi, when you record the real time data and look specifically at the sub injector duty cycle, it starts to look like and ekg printout. it hits a 100% duty and the ecu kills the signal to the injector for around 5-600 rpm then tries again. this happens all the way to redline. honda made these things to be at 80% duty at wide open throttle, no room for adjusting upward. going to try some 440's and add another injector on top of the one you put on. I'm going to have to depend on the addtional injectors so the ecu won't shut it down.

Glad to see you checking in from time to time.

power3dfx

are you running the 750 extra injector and still lack fuel at 6 psi? allmotor as i remember didnt even require the 750 unless boost was >6.5 psi. are you using the fpr from comptech as well?

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

yep, but not running it at 100%, without the additional injector, the stock injector is not enuff, with it, it helps but still is cycling over 15ms which at that point the ecu kills the signal and recycles to try again.

Acura Cl-P 4 ever

I had it fixed, and no problems after. Go get it fixed at the Dealership, and make sure you are nice. Do not give an attitude, because then you might have another problem coming to you.

power3dfx

unless you have the time and money for it, why not add another injector before upgrading stock ones? i know its not the same but it can save you a couple hundred bucks. but if you plan to raise boost to around 7 or more, then your probably better off upgrading now.
back to topic, i noticed that my volume knob has been going crazy lately. if you want to raise, it lowers the volume sometimes. Sometimes you have to adjust an extra 2-3 times to achieve desired volume. as for steering wheel controls, never had any problems. Ram, if you are not too far over 50k, go and tell them about it. They will goodwill it for sure since its a cheap fix. And your car is practically stock so you can try a few dealerships!

TypeS-Knight

I have the same problem on mine- don't know what it is...

But its really annoying when someone calls and your hitting the down button while answering the phone, and actually turning up the volume.

allmotor_2000

The E-manage real-time looking like an EKG is normal - its not the ECU shutting the injector off.. its just some noise on there. I had that problem no matter how little fuel I added.

Wow, you are courageous to try 10psi - I had very little success with even 7.5psi. Any knock? How that that feel in 3rd with 10psi - must be monstrous!

All Mine

Lord o' mighty. 10psi in 3rd. Now he's hunting Porsches.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

The funny thing about the duty cycle looking like an ekg, it doesn't do it at 4.5psi, it steadies at 80% duty and stays there to red line at that psi. I bumped it to 5.5 psi and the duty spikes to 100% and shuts down and dives to 0% then starts all over again. every 800 or so rpm it re-cycles. so i don't think theres noise on the line as I tested the crap out of it.

The engine makes one hell of a growl at 10psi, sounds incredible and feels like it pulls 50% stronger than at 6psi, no detonation, no pinging, no popping, just smooth.. i added an emormous amount of fuel and pulled 10degrees timing as well as using octane over 100 leaded (no cat). I did do a short pull in 4th, but not to redline and it went lean on me and I backed off. afr went to 18.1 before I lifted, no ping or knock as the knock detector would have lit up, that thing is bright. I was lucky.

I wonder if this ecu will operate the other functions if you cut the lines to the injectors and coils and run a stand alone to just control those items. Did you guys ponder this idea at all?

Sorry for hijacking this thread ram. here's a couple pics.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

Thought I'd mention, I know it can look like an ekg, but I turned off all other parameters and did a real time play back on the injector duty only, and it 4.5 psi wot it goes to 80%duty and holds a flat line across until red line. at 5.5 psi and watching only the injector duty, it spikes and falls. above 5.5 , it does it quicker, could lock up an injector doing that. Fuel pressure is between 80-90 psi. Just want to be clear since when you watch all parameters at once, it looks like a crazy ekg reading.

barbeau82

Back to our regularly hijacked thread..........The steering wheel thing, there is a TSB out for it. I just had it done back in October, it has something to do with there not being enough insulation between the switches. Easy fix for the dealer.....

djarovsky

The 03-015 TSB looks pretty involved to fix this issue.....not really for the do it yourselfer in my opinion......take it to the dealer.....estimated repair time = 1.5 hrs.

Corrective action: Dimple the copper shield on the steering column ball bearing in eight places.

Beware.....If you dimple them too deep, the sterring effort will be too high and the steering column will have to be replaced.

allmotor_2000

Porsche Turbo's can be dealt with at 6.5psi...

allmotor_2000

Man, I wish I could feel that 3rd gear at 10psi!!

All Mine

You should. Just build another kit. You're the king of CL-T's, after all.

allmotor_2000

My next car with > 500hp has to be RWD or AWD

All Mine

What's different on your car, than Tom's? You made 500, he made -400? I'm in the process of buying a CL-S6, and am wanting a turbo kit just like yours. I want to make that much power, too.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

There are several reasons for the difference. This is my take on it. I believe Ram had his manifold and/or heads extruded honed, correct me if i'm wrong on that. He has an enlarged throttle body, he dyno'd with 100 octane fuel, had his IMRC connected, ran with an open exhaust, and dyno'd on a dynopac while I dyno'd on a dynojet. His whp was measured at the hub, closer to the engine, while mine was measured where the tire meets the road. All of this will account for the difference. I'm satisfied with the outcome thus far and expect more from this motor in near future than anyone here can imagine.

BTW, he did not make 500, It was 419, we'll wait till I finish a couple things and then revisit the dyno. If you do get a 6 spd, most def look into a turbo if you've got the funds. It's a blast and I'm not one bit sorry I spent the bucks on it as it's a decently thought out design. I'm sure if Ram were to do it again, he'd change a couple things from the experience he gained from this kit and the one prior to this one.

BlueCLS6

I will be pulling my kit off in a couple months for my SMOG check and may not put it back in. If you find a CLS6 by then send me a note and I may have a sale for you. It only has 4,ooo miles on it and is in perfect shape.

allmotor_2000

Maybe 3rd time's the charm!!

Chr8808

iTrader: (1)

IS that the TSB number?? 03-015 ??

Also, do we have to pay for that service? or is it taken care of for free?

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone have a copy of the TSB for this problem?

I just took my car into the dealer and mentioned to them the problem. The service manager told me that he would try to fix it since I complained about the problem like 2 years ago (which at that time this problem wasn't even known so they didn't know how to fix it). HE said that the problem is the grounding connector needs to disconnected, cleaned, and then re-connected. I didn't buy what he said, but they were doing it for free so I couldn't complain.

But then he called me and said that they can't do the repair on my car because the grounding cable for the 03 CL-S 6spd is riveted on to the car so there's nothing they can do about it and in addition that the TSB didn't affect my model year CL. He also added that the problem I described was for MDX's???

I really wanna see a copy of the damn TSB to see for myself what the hell is goin on.