mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Well while I was doing my brakes last month or so I noticed my rear Comptech springs and rear sway were starting to show signs of surface rust and peeling powder coat. I didn't spaz out, I realize it's a problem and I'd get it taken care of soon. Well I got around to dealing with it this week. It appears as if the shop that sold the springs/sways/koni's (1 of 3 Comptech vendors in Maryland) has closed its doors. Great, there goes any hope of having the labor covered. And I can't find/don't have the invoice for them anyways so that doesn't help either. Looks like I'll be shelling out some money for new springs and a rear sway some time this summer

Next I installed my boost and fuel pressure gagues two weeks ago. My boost gauge was reading a peak of 11.5psi. Yeah right! It's also reading vaccum incorrectly. So I hooked up a mechanical gauge and it reads 20-22inHg at idle and 6psi at WOT. That's where I should be. So the gauge and MAP sensor gets sent off to Autometer Monday. This is the third time I've dealt with Autometer customer service. Once before because the boost gauge was reading 30inHg and once because the pressure sensor for the fuel pressure gauge was wack. I love the design of the gauges but they have been far from reliable.

I ran once at the track before on bald tires and I couldn't do better than 14.3 @ 102 MPH. I blamed that on little experience in the new car and the poor condition of the tires. I'm now on 235/45 tires and I hook up decently but I still couldn't do better than a 2.2 60'. Best run was 14.0 @ 104 MPH. Remember my automatic CL-S ran a 2.0 short time and 13.30 @ 108 MPH. The only difference in mods are the automatic had the cooling mods and cat-back exhaust. I was expecting trap speeds at least around 108 as the car sits now. Oh well I doubt I'll take the car back to the track. It's hell on the clutch (which has started to feel "soft" recently; still grabs though). I love the car, but it really is a cruiser not a car for the 1320'. My previous car was just a freak; I'm now convinced.

And now for pics from this evening:

I waited 2 hours before running the car tonight. 1 16lb bag of ice on the manifold and one 7lb bag on the blower. This really cooled things off.



Mugen radiator cap installed; been too busy to install the thermostat and fan switch:





I like this pic; for those who don't know it's the lid of the IceBox included with the supercharger package:



More pics are being uploaded and will be posted shortly.

civicking

i was into autometer a while but i realized they sucks, and i went with one of the original companies thats started the buisness, VDO i know their guages are bland but they are the most reliable, mine has never been wrong and i love them.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I just can't find another full swept boost/vac gauge. 30inHg/15psi.

Joe5.0

Ya see, the 6 speed is alot harder to get 1/4 times than you thought, huh.

104mph is still pretty good, thats like 8mph over stock so its not insignificant. Maybe try some stickier tires and practice your shifting. A dyno would probably help too, make sure its putting out what its supposed to.

civicking

i found some:


the picture on this one is only a boost gauge but they have the same one in 30vac/25psi in black and white

Joe5.0

Why the need for 30psi?? I mean you'll never run over 10psi, so why have all that unused area? Its like cars that are limited to 110mph, but have speedo's that go to 150.

NiteQwill

Because boost gauges only usually come with a limit of 30 or 100psi. Would be nice if there was a more accurate 10psi gauge....

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

There are. I have two boost gauges and both read 30inHg to 15psi; full swept. One is mechanical and one is electronic with it's own MAP sensor.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Video - This was my first run of the night. I was sleeping at the light (1.4 reaction time) The Mustang got out on my pretty quck and it looks like he kicked my ass but I actually trapped 13 MPH faster than him.

http://photos.imageevent.com/mrsteve...50826_0020.AVI

Mike01s

nice vid steve. you really closed the gap near the end. are you running slicks?

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

No i'm running all season Falkens.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

More pics:

This guy runs every weekend. He must have 700+ runs on this car and is by far the most consistant guy out there. It only runs 15s but he keeps track of every run he makes/weather conditions, etc). He's a huge bracket racer. All night his runs were 15.12, 15.14. 15.11.





I found this funny, too bad the car was slow:

Smitty

telling you.. Intercooler and jack shaft pulley is like adding another S/C'er to the car.

but you are VERY correct, the CL-S is not a track monster.. it is a cruiser and I absolutley love how it pulls from a roll.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

No comment:



Now this is what I'm talkin' about. This guy pulled of a 1.073 60' time but shut it down at the 330' mark. It's easily a 7 second car:



And a pic of this guy's SVT lightning that runs 12.60's @ 109

babyblue

Steve you thinking of going this route???

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I was working on putting something together. Haven't decided if I'm going to continue or not.

civicking

as i said in the post before that is only a boost gauge, they have a vac/boost guage that runs to 25psi and its very accurate, i when i had it i could tell i was running 6psi exactly. i used that pic just to show what the gauge looks like.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

But you're not getting the point. We don't need a 25psi gauge. Hell we don't need a 15psi gauge. We're only ever going to see 10psi MAX so why waste all the space on a gauge for shit we'll never use.

civicking

i know you dont need that much but if you were going to use vdo thats why they make, i was telling him that they have a vac boost guage too, now there is also datcon, and if i remember right they make gauges for industrical areas but they make auto guages too and from what i know they are just as good as vdo, they are the same company that makes stewart warner gauages. they make a vac/bost gauage that has a range of 15psi check it out here http://www.datcon.com/products/2hdauto.htm here is the SW gauges they make http://www.stewartwarner.com/Products/prod1.html

Chopsie

Great pics/ Vid Steve!
Do you remember what that Blue LS2 GTO ran ? Auto or Manual ?

EDIT: Even without the exhaust setup you had on your old CLS, your 6 MT is very throaty, or so it sounds.

Blitz

Forgive my ignorance, because I honestly don't know, but would you be able to use the BAR style gauges? Would these be more/less accurate or are they completely unusable on a S/C setup?

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

We could definitely. However we'd need one that max's out around 0.7 BAR.

1 BAR = 14.5psi

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

My manual gauge is a SW. It works, but it isn't nearly as visible and doesn't have the "peak" and "warn" features I love about the autometer. At night you can see the numbers on the gauge but you really can't see the arrow.

Blitz

Ok. I've seen 2 BAR gauges. I guess that would be just the same as the 30psi gauge then. Damn.

ghost_masterCL

I still can't belive you have the stock exhaust ont here. I know it's a pretty efficient exhaust, but sitll man, you've got a freakin SC on there. it's flowing more air, it needs more room.

Seattle Cl-S

After watching your video I think your main problem is still shifting. You're probably losing .1 to .2 on each shift. That's good for .3 to .4 over the whole 1/4. The slower 60 ft is also chewing up another .3 or so by the end of the 1/4.

My new car is my first manual and I'd bet alot of slower cars could kick my ass right now in a drag. Can't beat the consistency of those automatics!

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Oh well it seems i'll just need to give it more practice. Shifting really fast just makes me worried about grinding and destroying the synchros.

I bet you miss the sound of the blower don't you? I've watched that 30 sec clip about a dozen times now... I just love the way the car sounds.

m&b6speed

yeah i agree with seattle cl-s. you can shift much faster thatn that, don't be affraid, the car can handle it. as long as the clutch is used, you cant grind it, just practice shifting faster while daily driving, you dont have to go fast, just shift fast.

shineynitelite

whats your launch procedure? no spin at allllll hmm


i wish i had an in car camera mount so i could have gotten some clips like that today..

ghost_masterCL

yeah, I'd say the launch could have been better. I know wheel hop is a major problem, but after seeing shiney's launch at the track, I'm sure you can do much bettter steve.

shineynitelite

you have no idea what your talking about


a preloaded launch is the best way to launch as long as you have the power to pull out of it and reach really low 60 ft times.. mr steves car clearly does.. i would be further interested to see at what rpms he slips the clutch etc like i said in my previous post...


this doesnt make any sense.. you say that hop is a major problem.. but yet you say that his preloaded launch could have been better? maybe if he would have gotten some wheel spin in there it could have been better??? (prolly not, if you didnt notice when the wheels spin, your not moving)


what are you talking about? i posted videos from the track yes, side views where it looks like a good launch.. but you really cant see whats going on in my videos like you can in steves because obviously can only hear what steves doing.. you have no basis for that comment.. what do you know about launching dont you have an auto?

i'd say that mr steve has a solid launch ritual, no spinning problems and a hell of a lot better 60 foot time than me (with a hell of a lot more power).. maybe someone on this board w/ enough knowledge can give mr steve some quality feedback and advice, i'm looking for the same thing.. i wanna try what mr steve does, so mr steve.. teach me plz

03 CL TypeS

I am guessing they are not Azenis? What kind of tires are you running?

2.2 60' doesn't sound bad for "all-season" tires. If you would get some drag radials you could perhaps expect some <= 2.0 60' times. And keep in mind that your old automatic was much easier to launch than your new 6MT.

I can't offer an opinion on the mph because I don't know what mods your old CLS had as compared to now.

As for shifting, I wouldn't say that it's your main problem. You're still trapping 104mph which is good for mid 13s. You just gotta get it to hook better off the line!

My

ChucksCL-S

Great video Steve. I agree, do some of the better ideas mentioned above and go on a cool dry night and you'll see mid-thirteens. Just my 2CW.

ghost_masterCL

wow, thanks for that. I really need to be corrected that bad , I'm sure he can do better, and I guess it just looks a lot different from in car than it does from your side view, which screwed up my judgement. No need to attempt to rip me a new one over that. I'm not sayin taht his launch was terrible, but I've seen better on fwd cars with that much power. I doubt I could do what he can do first try, but after a few months of practice I bet I could.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

The video was a launch from only 1250 rpm. I tried as high as 2500 with poor results.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I'm running Falken Ziex 512 (I think that's what they are... forget all the letters and numbers ) in 235/45/17. They only have 1,500 miles on them. I ran them at 25psi.

I'm thinking about getting a pair of RSX wheels and running Hoosier DR's

Yeah I know I could be shifting harder... I messed around a little tonight and I definitely can shift harder/faster... I'm just afraid of breaking something; afterall this is my daily driver. I barked 3rd really hard tonight though on the way home.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Oh you know me, i'll be back. Probably sooner rather than later.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Oh and with a preloaded launch I'd spin and/or hop like a mother fucker. I already have to warm the tires up in the burnout box in 2nd gear.

Joe5.0

In my limited experience the rpm isnt the important aspect, its the clutch action. To get good 60's without spinning & without bogging you almost are forced to slip the clutch. I actually once or twice would pre-load the clutch by holding the ebrake. This way there was less of a shock when I floored it. The 6 speed clutch is DEFINITELY not meant for the 1/4 mile. It is way too soft & WAY too non-linear. Its really hard to launch cleanly because there really is no good way to slip the clutch w/o risking it. Its like an on/off switch, very abrubt engagement.

Steve a 2.20 60' is pretty damn decent, esp at your power levels & on street tires. Just practice your shifts, get the car dyno'd and try again.

Those hoosiers will def help, thats for sure. In the meantime if you go back on the Falkens try to not go in the water, just do a short dry burnout. I'm sure you know this, but the water really is meant for slicks only, the grooves in the street radials fling up water and it drips back down on the tires once you get to the line.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I know but at this track it is not possible to go around the water. So I have to roll through the water box on to the dry pavement and do a small burn out to dry'em off.