Throttle Cable Replacement

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Old 11-28-2011, 08:14 PM
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Arrow Throttle Cable Replacement

Thanks for the replies on my last thread. Here is another.

I again have searched the 2 gen CL threads and have not found anyone who has done a DIY on a throttle cable replacement. My Mechanic advises I do it, and the petal does kind of hesitate then lurch. I ordered the part from Criswell Acura in Annapolis for $27.00

At first I adjusted it tighter, but the cable is stretched and I am better off doing the replacement.

Can one of you all reply with a link to this issue or Discuss personal experiences with this.

If there is no DIY I can create a quick on.

I got my degree at the end of the summer and am searching for a job so I have plenty of time for stuff like repairs on the AK.
Old 11-29-2011, 08:57 AM
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I see no reason you would have to replace the throttle cable. I don't think I have heard anyone that had too & some have had well over 150K miles.
Maybe your throttle body is dirty & the butterfly is sticking?
Old 11-29-2011, 09:37 AM
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I work on boats a lot. I have had to replace throttle cables and shift cables before. They can stretch (feels like it slips out of the sheathing).

I had adjusted mine a little, but I still think it needs replacement.
Old 11-29-2011, 10:29 AM
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Per the Helms manual:

Throttle Cable Removal/Installation
1) Fully open the throttle vlave, then remove the throttle cable from the throttle link.
2) Remove the cable sheath from the cable bracket.
3) Remove the throttle cable from the accelerator pedal.
4) Pull off the throttle cable from the vehicle.
5) Install in the reverse order of removal.
6) After installing, start the engine and hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or nuetral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
7) Remove all the slack from the cable while holding the cable sheath.
8) Turn the adjusting nut until it is 3mm (1/8 in.) away from the cable bracket.
9) Tighten the locknut. The cable deflection should be 4-6mm (3/16-1/4 in.). If deflection is not within spec, readjust the nuts.
10) After the cable is adjusted properly, check the throttle valve whether it is able to fully open and close smoothly with acceleration.

Old 11-29-2011, 10:53 AM
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Thank you so much.
I love this Forum

Yes, my deflection is much more than the spec. listed here.
Probably like 5 mils.



Originally Posted by zeta
Per the Helms manual:

Throttle Cable Removal/Installation
1) Fully open the throttle vlave, then remove the throttle cable from the throttle link.
2) Remove the cable sheath from the cable bracket.
3) Remove the throttle cable from the accelerator pedal.
4) Pull off the throttle cable from the vehicle.
5) Install in the reverse order of removal.
6) After installing, start the engine and hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or nuetral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
7) Remove all the slack from the cable while holding the cable sheath.
8) Turn the adjusting nut until it is 3mm (1/8 in.) away from the cable bracket.
9) Tighten the locknut. The cable deflection should be 4-6mm (3/16-1/4 in.). If deflection is not within spec, readjust the nuts.
10) After the cable is adjusted properly, check the throttle valve whether it is able to fully open and close smoothly with acceleration.

Old 11-29-2011, 11:43 AM
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^
If possible while you are there at the Throttle body, check to see if it (the valve) moves freely within the TB. These things tend to collect alot of particulate that collects there and inhibits free movement. Some lacquer thinner on a rag with your finger will do a good job on the quick. Throttle response should improve, which you will notice.
Old 11-29-2011, 04:47 PM
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i personally cannot see a hesitation being created by a slightly stretched cable. i think it's a sensor going, or spark related ie plugs or a coil goin on u.

i had some weird shit happening to my car the rpms ere going all over the place. i just disconected all the connections by the TB.. so that's 5 connections or so.. plugged them back in and it was back to perfect really weird shit.

just a lil fyi
Old 11-30-2011, 09:33 AM
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I had that happen too. Took the TB off to replace the IACV. Plugged it all back in. Ran fine for a day. Then sputtered, stalled, through a TB control failure code. Unplugged everything plugged back in & never had another problem over 50K miles.
Old 11-30-2011, 10:17 AM
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your mechanic has port-o-potty syndrome.

he is full of shit.


hesitation is caused by:
lack of maintenance,spark plugs, bad coil pack, low oil, over heating, failing sensors,dirty throttle body, failing fuel pump.

is your car automatic? i bet your lurching is from a failing transmission.
Old 11-30-2011, 04:05 PM
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i bet that was a weird one for u too ay fuzzy02cls. u think wtf can it be and it ends up being so simple it's confusing to think about lol... but w/e

computers do so unexplainable things
Old 01-04-2012, 10:33 PM
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Glad I found this. My throttle cable snapped (yes snapped) while driving last night. Had to get the car towed back to my house. The replacement should be in at the dealership tomorrow..Looking at the steps above, replacing it should be about a 30 minute job; just damned inconvenient.
Old 01-05-2012, 09:09 AM
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snapped??? wowzers

i'd like to know how on earth that happens.

lead foot maybe?
Old 01-05-2012, 10:24 AM
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dirty throttle body or binding.
The following users liked this post:
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:37 AM
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Whats up with RDX owners?
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His car isnt the first CL that this has happened to and Im sure it wont be the last.

Its really not a long job, its just difficult working under the dash.
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