babyblue

Well got informed in the afternoon that the charger was on, except for the guauges which were to be installed tomorrow. I drive down for the dyno, and was expecting some good numbers... The dyno was done on a dyno jet, and pulled in 3rd Gear... Well here is the heart breaker...

Here is the complete info:

Max WHP=218.75 TRQ=226.49

Run Conditions: 69.16 F Humidity: 20% SAE:.98

Looking at the graph as soon as vtec kicks in it jumps a little, peaks at 5K and just goes downhill...

I didn't get the A/F Ratio graph which I should have asked for...

Any help is appreciated, cuz I really wasn't expecting those numbers... In short I'm slower with the SC than I was b4 all my mods... Mods I know I should have posted this in the dyno section, but wanted as much feedback from our members.

Thanks,

Dyno Graph:

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Your ESM conntection is bad, you car is seeing boost.

Smitty

your Fuel pressure is important too...

babyblue

I spoke to the tech and he said that the esm is getting 2.8V as its supposed to... He was mentioning something about the EGR valve being clogged up. He cleaned it, and said it should be fine now.. I took it for a drive, but under vtec it is so bogged down... the car wont pick up like it used to...

I have asked him to connect the gauges before he takes the car in for another dyno. A bit disappointed but hopefully things will be fixed..

Thanks Smitty and steve for your feed backs...

allmotor_2000

You could tune the ESM, but the ECU is not seeing boost... if it did, you wouldn't be making 200whp! The ECU cuts timing when it sees boost.

Anyways, check for leaks first, slipping belt, adequate fuel pressure... what is the boost after VTEC?

allmotor_2000

Oh yeah, check the bypass valve on the S/C...

Smitty

2.93 is the correct voltage for the ESM..

Smitty

make sure you disconnect your Intake Manifold Runner Control too.. or you will start to hear some pinging when you hit the upper RPM.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

For the 6MT. On the automatic it is 2.84v

allmotor_2000

I set mine at 2.75V

02AV6

Yep, check for 2 things ESM and BELT (needs to be tight). Also disconnect IMRC as Smitty said. What is your fuel pressure at idle? Make sure you don't get on it at WOT until you tune it.

bigguyonbike

only for 6 speed. 5AT is 2.82v

bigguyonbike

only for 6 speed. 5AT is 2.84v

bigguyonbike

opps, just saw mrsteve post.

babyblue

Well up and early this morning.. gonna take the info to the dealer and talk with the tech.... thanks guyz with all your help and feedback.. will update you more once I get more if things haven't been resolved...

Wanted to ask when I get the gauges on.. what should the fuel pressure be at idle, and on boost what should it be?

Boost should jump to 5.5 psi at the most through out the rpm, with a peak at 6 correct?

Thanks again...

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

if your using the emanage, you don't need to use the esm by comptech. the emanage has a voltage clamp built into it. perhaps you adjusted your emange to 2.75v and that works well for you.

i wouldn't want anyone on here to start messing around with their comptech esm and adjusting it to where you have yours set. When i had mine on, it worked fine, set by comptech. you plug it in and leave it alone.

babyblue

Not using emanage since haven't decided if I wanna IC it yet... The tech hasn't changed anything on the ESM, just plug and play...

Spoke to the dealer and they think the car isn't seeing any boost at all... so lets see.. just got to be patient and take it from there... They are hooking the mechnical gauges first, just to see if boost is there or not.. Secondly he said during the dyno, the car was getting lots of fuel.. but let see... waiting game...

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

IF the car isn't seeing boost at all check the bypass valve. Might be busted.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

i was referring to allmotor and his remark. He uses the emanage.

sorry to here things aren't going well with your blower. did you buy a new one or a used one? just curious.

allmotor_2000

2.84V, 2.95V, 2.75V... they all work. The lower the voltage is, the more timing you get... then you use the E-manage to retard as necessary. With the Comptech ESM, I agree, they (Comptech) have set it to a certain value that is safe for their setup, FPR rise-rate etc.

Just FYI... one of the reasons the auto makes less power is precisely because of the 2.95V vs. 2.84V (even with the same boost pulley and same motor).

babyblue

Went with a new one, got it for an amazing deal.... the problem with purchasing a used one from the US was Canadian custom and duties... The price I got as a package was close to what I could have bought used... and pay tax + duties for Customs...

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Do you have gauges purchased yet? If not I'll sell you mine at 50% and include the fittings for the fuel pressure gauge.

babyblue

To be honest steve yes I have.. I bought the phantom electric gauges... for fuel, and boost/vac... I saw ur post, but just 24 hours late... Gauges should be installed by the end of today...

Thanks for all your help by the way...

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

you are mistaken. That voltage has nothing to do with the timing. you cant control the timing the stock ecu comes set with, period. you can minipulate the info with the emanage,and as you know, emanage can advance/retard timing while the stock ecu thinks everything is hunky dory.

FYI, the emanage has a map limiter which acts as the comptech esm, therefore you don't need the comptech esm.

babyblue

Spoke to the dealer and he says the car is ALIVE He took a road test and said he has a huge smile on his face... They re-checked everything and tightened the belt, which he said could have been the reason.. Dyno is set for tomorrow afternoon 1:30, so will know when it happens if everything fell into place...

Thanks everything for your help... Can't wait to pick her up tomorrow....

NSX-Tuner

A slipping belt could make a huge difference. I had that happen to me when I first picked up my car from the dealer after the S/C install. After tightening the belt the next morning, the car felt like it had another 75 WHP.

My car (CLS 6MT) dyno'd with 305 WHP at CompTech. Red Rider's car (CLS 5AT) dyno'd with 269 WHP before he added the HBP. I think he now gets about 285-289 WHP.

You should see at least 260-280 WHP with your setup. Good luck tomorrow.

babyblue

To be honest I would like to see 280 whp.. As long as it hits that number or above.. its a worth while investment... Lets see what happens...

babyblue

Well first and foremost thanks for everyones help in this matter.. especially to mrsteve, smitty, 02AV6 for quick responses and numerous pm's..... It was a lose belt, and they had to retune ESM... and couple of other things... be writing a review later on.... loving it so far...

Best Numbers on 3rd pull:

Max WHP=266.94 TRQ=237.15

Run Conditions: 68.99 F Humidity: 20% SAE:.98

A/F Was 11.4

**will post the graph later on....

I pulled 3 runs, with 91 octane when I should have put octance 94... a little tuning was needed.... All pull were done like 7-10 mins apart.... So the car was warm... thermoblok weren't installed on the dynos...

Will be doing another dyno soon since I got the thermolblok later on in the evening and will be getting the mugen mods....

babyblue

You were right on the money eh

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see your car is running well. 266whp is a nice number. I suppose i've got the "factory freak" everyone keeps talking about so don't base your numbers off of what I put down. When I was N/A my numbers were normal (227whp) but when I dyno'd it again on the same dyno with the S/C I nailed 295whp.

Enjoy! Let me know if you have anymore questions.