Question regarding header install...
05-31-2001, 01:29 PM
#1
Racer
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Location: Orangevale, CA USA
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Question regarding header install...
How technical is the install. The reason I ask is that I got a bad recommendation on the shop I bought them from. The recommendation, however, came from another shop. The shop I bought them through has been around for like 6 years, and my thinking is that they wouldnt be doing so well if they were fucking up people's cars. They already installed my pulleys and CAI with no problems, but Im worried about the headers. A guy I talked to at the track told me that the headers were a muh more difficult install and I should be careful who does it.
So any info on how difficult the install is and what the chances are that they could fuck up my car would be greatly appreciated. My current plan is to go ahead and let them install them, then take it to the other shop or the dealership to have them checked and retorqued. I just want it done right... BTW they are charging me $150 for the install.
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2001 Silver CL-S
Factory Spoiler, mud flaps, trunk tray
20% Tint
Silverknight Grille
Denso Iridium Plugs
AEM CAI & Pulleys
Comptech headers, sways, exhaust, and H&R sports on the way
So any info on how difficult the install is and what the chances are that they could fuck up my car would be greatly appreciated. My current plan is to go ahead and let them install them, then take it to the other shop or the dealership to have them checked and retorqued. I just want it done right... BTW they are charging me $150 for the install.
------------------
2001 Silver CL-S
Factory Spoiler, mud flaps, trunk tray
20% Tint
Silverknight Grille
Denso Iridium Plugs
AEM CAI & Pulleys
Comptech headers, sways, exhaust, and H&R sports on the way
05-31-2001, 01:41 PM
#2
Racer
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Orangevale, CA USA
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Do I need to have the bolts and gaskets replaced if I only have 2k miles on the car? And if so, where do I get the gaskets to make sure the shop replaces them?
------------------
2001 Silver CL-S
Factory Spoiler, mud flaps, trunk tray
20% Tint
Silverknight Grille
Denso Iridium Plugs
AEM CAI & Pulleys
Comptech headers, sways, exhaust, and H&R sports on the way
------------------
2001 Silver CL-S
Factory Spoiler, mud flaps, trunk tray
20% Tint
Silverknight Grille
Denso Iridium Plugs
AEM CAI & Pulleys
Comptech headers, sways, exhaust, and H&R sports on the way
05-31-2001, 02:43 PM
#3
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Location: where the weather suits my clothes
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The Comptechs come with all the hardware including gaskets.
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1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation
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1999 Satin Silver Metallic 3.2 TL w/o Navigation
- 18x8 Racing Hart C2s with 225/40ZR18 Dunlop SP Sport 9000
- Comptech Springs, Sways, Exhaust, and Headers
- Red AEM CAI w/bypass valve
- A'PEXi Digital VTEC AFC
- Denso Iridium Plugs
- Custom Mugen Grill
- Inspire Tail Lights
- Factory Underbody Kit and Spoiler
- Clifford Intelliguard 9000 Alarm w/SmartWindows II
- Alpine 6 disk CD Changer
- BEL 945i Cordless Radar Detector
- Burlwood Shift Knob & Trunk Tray
- 20% tint
05-31-2001, 04:12 PM
#4
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Location: Sacramento, CA, USA
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I've installed my own Headers and its really easy. Well let me correct myself, its really easy if you have the right tools. I definitely can see someone screwing up their car if they don't have the right tools. The kit comes with all of the parts you need.
I would say for 150 to do the install is a good price.. I think Acura was charging 200-250 to do the install.
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White CL-s
Comptech Headers, AEM CAI, Spoiler
Kenwood Amp, Two 10"s
I would say for 150 to do the install is a good price.. I think Acura was charging 200-250 to do the install.
------------------
White CL-s
Comptech Headers, AEM CAI, Spoiler
Kenwood Amp, Two 10"s
05-31-2001, 04:20 PM
#5
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The only problem is that it is very time-consuming... 
BTW, you get gaskets, however, you re-use your stock manifold gasket..unless of course you wanna buy a new one...
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2001 Cl-S Black on Black with Navigation
Black Tint all around (15%~45%)
Weapon-R Dragon Filter
Weapon-R Coil-Overs
Koni Adjustable Struts
Comptech Sway Bars
Comptech Headers (hehehe...I got something for you drchang!!)
14.698 @95.977mph....Sears Point Raceway.I think I need a Level 10 Torque Converter!!
Yes, I know I'm going to hell for wasting gas on Civics....
[This message has been edited by moomaster_99 (edited 05-31-2001).]
BTW, you get gaskets, however, you re-use your stock manifold gasket..unless of course you wanna buy a new one...
------------------
2001 Cl-S Black on Black with Navigation
Black Tint all around (15%~45%)
Weapon-R Dragon Filter
Weapon-R Coil-Overs
Koni Adjustable Struts
Comptech Sway Bars
Comptech Headers (hehehe...I got something for you drchang!!)
14.698 @95.977mph....Sears Point Raceway.I think I need a Level 10 Torque Converter!!
Yes, I know I'm going to hell for wasting gas on Civics....
[This message has been edited by moomaster_99 (edited 05-31-2001).]
05-31-2001, 08:56 PM
#6
Suzuka Master
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Installed them back months ago with no real complication. I do suggest have both ramps and stands to completely elevate the car. The kit provides everything except for the manifold gaskets, but with 2k on it they wouldn't be needed.
BTW, this reminds me that I still owe soopa the install details for FAQs. Or just use the below, with it cleaned up a bit.
Anyway, if possible, have a compressor with air tools and a friend. But some standard hand tools will work but be sure to have a long socket extension. A 16" would be fine. Everything can be reach from the top or the bottom.
The first part is to remove the factory heat shield, which is done with a 10mm socket. The front is easy enough. As for the rear, I found it easier to reach from the driver’s side and by reaching down into a 'hole' just a little towards the middle and rear of the VSA throttle. You won't see much but it is easy enough to feel your way around.
Next go under and remove the HO2S1 (the first O2 sensor). I found that there is enough play in it to twist it loose without disconnecting the connector. Just tie is up out of the way when done.
Next remove the three bolts to the catalytic converter. I had to bend the shield away a little to fit the socket in there but I was using a 1/2" impact gun too. Once these are loose get at the front and rear A-Pipe to exhaust manifold bolts. This is where the extension will come in. This will now drop out of the way and all that is left is the stock manifolds.
These can be removed the same way as the heat shields just use a deep socket on these. Also try and get the outside ones first and the center one last to balance the manifold. Once loose remove the manifold but is sure to take care around the studs and the gasket. This is where it could get bad if you damaged the studs or gasket. The font one can be taken out from the top with a little maneuvering. The rear (with the bolts removed from the top) can be taken our from below.
Half way there now...
Reverse the steps for mounting the new headers and again, be careful with the studs and gaskets. Don't tighten the bolts down all of the way. Now reinstall the new A-Pipe. I suggest loosely installing the cat end first but don't forget about the compression gaskets. Now get the A-Pipe to headers started. This is where you might need some help. The stock manifold used studs whereas the Comptech unit has just through bolts and lock nuts. So once you start the not you have to support the hex head of the bolt. There is no room to easily do this. I used a wrench on it that I lodged against something solid. This worked out well. Once those are tight, tighten the cat bolts down.
Re-install the O2 sensor and if you didn't disconnect it, give it a little negative twist. 4 turns would be about right.
Lastly tighten the header bolts but be careful not to over torque them. Use a torque wrench if available or get you arm in good calibration. These are aluminum heads and can be damaged by over torqueing.
But that is it. Crank it and check for leaks. Took me about 2 hours and 15 minute but I have wrenched a few times. Just take your time and do it right. Hurrying never help and keep you area clean!!
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...allcarlift.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...sfrontleft.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...ontremoved.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...earremoved.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...sinstalled.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...malloldnew.jpg
[This message has been edited by scalbert (edited 05-31-2001).]
BTW, this reminds me that I still owe soopa the install details for FAQs. Or just use the below, with it cleaned up a bit.
Anyway, if possible, have a compressor with air tools and a friend. But some standard hand tools will work but be sure to have a long socket extension. A 16" would be fine. Everything can be reach from the top or the bottom.
The first part is to remove the factory heat shield, which is done with a 10mm socket. The front is easy enough. As for the rear, I found it easier to reach from the driver’s side and by reaching down into a 'hole' just a little towards the middle and rear of the VSA throttle. You won't see much but it is easy enough to feel your way around.
Next go under and remove the HO2S1 (the first O2 sensor). I found that there is enough play in it to twist it loose without disconnecting the connector. Just tie is up out of the way when done.
Next remove the three bolts to the catalytic converter. I had to bend the shield away a little to fit the socket in there but I was using a 1/2" impact gun too. Once these are loose get at the front and rear A-Pipe to exhaust manifold bolts. This is where the extension will come in. This will now drop out of the way and all that is left is the stock manifolds.
These can be removed the same way as the heat shields just use a deep socket on these. Also try and get the outside ones first and the center one last to balance the manifold. Once loose remove the manifold but is sure to take care around the studs and the gasket. This is where it could get bad if you damaged the studs or gasket. The font one can be taken out from the top with a little maneuvering. The rear (with the bolts removed from the top) can be taken our from below.
Half way there now...
Reverse the steps for mounting the new headers and again, be careful with the studs and gaskets. Don't tighten the bolts down all of the way. Now reinstall the new A-Pipe. I suggest loosely installing the cat end first but don't forget about the compression gaskets. Now get the A-Pipe to headers started. This is where you might need some help. The stock manifold used studs whereas the Comptech unit has just through bolts and lock nuts. So once you start the not you have to support the hex head of the bolt. There is no room to easily do this. I used a wrench on it that I lodged against something solid. This worked out well. Once those are tight, tighten the cat bolts down.
Re-install the O2 sensor and if you didn't disconnect it, give it a little negative twist. 4 turns would be about right.
Lastly tighten the header bolts but be careful not to over torque them. Use a torque wrench if available or get you arm in good calibration. These are aluminum heads and can be damaged by over torqueing.
But that is it. Crank it and check for leaks. Took me about 2 hours and 15 minute but I have wrenched a few times. Just take your time and do it right. Hurrying never help and keep you area clean!!
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...allcarlift.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...sfrontleft.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...ontremoved.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...earremoved.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...sinstalled.jpg
http://www.flwsoutheast.com/images/s...malloldnew.jpg
[This message has been edited by scalbert (edited 05-31-2001).]
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