Pulleys? (sp?)
05-13-2005, 01:25 PM
#1
That's Racist
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Pulleys? (sp?)
Any and all information about pulleys please.
UR = gains and AEM = just for show right?
Does it put added stress on the engine?
Pricing?
Easy to install? Where to buy?
Tried to search, didn't find anything really. =/. Thanks.
UR = gains and AEM = just for show right?
Does it put added stress on the engine?
Pricing?
Easy to install? Where to buy?
Tried to search, didn't find anything really. =/. Thanks.
05-13-2005, 01:33 PM
#2
Not Asian
1. I believe you are correct.
2. The UR website used to have a FAQ to explain a lot of the questions. They changed their website and I can't find it now. Just to let you know some members have had the crank pulley for over 80k with no problems.
4. I think the install is not easy. Basically because the crank pulley is torqued to 180 ft-lbs.
3. Contact Excellerate on this forum.
2. The UR website used to have a FAQ to explain a lot of the questions. They changed their website and I can't find it now. Just to let you know some members have had the crank pulley for over 80k with no problems.
4. I think the install is not easy. Basically because the crank pulley is torqued to 180 ft-lbs.
3. Contact Excellerate on this forum.
05-14-2005, 12:39 AM
#4
Beware of leakage
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Only worthy pulley is the UR Crank pulley, lighter than stock, but beware if you have big banging stereo as it underdrives the accessories.
05-14-2005, 02:02 AM
#5
I have a roughly 700-watt system with two 12" subs, and the voltage is usually at around 13.9-14.1 volts. But that's with a Optima Yellow Top. I have a problem with the voltage dropping to about 12.8 volts while the car is stopped and idling, but I just found out today that I didn't mount the alternator correctly when I was installing the pulleys and that's most likely what's causing the drop in the voltage. I have the 3-piece UR set, by the way.
Simply put, they pose no threat as long as they are installed correctly. It took me and a friend like 2-3 hours if I remember right, including a couple of trips to the local shop to get the nut off the alternator pulley and loosen the crank pulley nut.
If you are familiar with the guys at a local shop, then they shouldn't have a problem with loosening the crank nut for you at no charge. Just turn the wheel all the way to the right, and there's an access point through the splash guard. Have them loosen it and retorque it lightly so you can take it off when you get back. Of course, once you've installed everything, go back and have them tighten it. My friend ended up buying air tools and a compressor in the middle of the installation, and it made the job a thousand times easier.
Contact Excelerate (Josh), or check the Group Buy section for his group buy. I think he still has it going on. Or you can talk to my guy Scott. I've bought numerous parts from him, and he's super reliable with good prices.
Some people will tell you about the harmonic balancer, and how the aftermarket pulleys don't have it. Don't worry about it. It's just a big myth, and it'll be fine. The only problem you could encounter is by running cheap parts, like AEM or the recently introduced Megan pulleys; these don't have a good reputation or no reputation at all, respectively. Just like all other rotating parts, they need to be balanced. If they are not, they will create an unbalanced momentum, and it WILL cause severe stress on the crankshaft. That's why I always recommend paying the extra bucks and going with the proven and reliable UR pulleys.
You can skimp out on rotors, pads, whatever. When it comes to the engine, don't cheap out, because it could cost you a lot in the end. Just my .02.
Simply put, they pose no threat as long as they are installed correctly. It took me and a friend like 2-3 hours if I remember right, including a couple of trips to the local shop to get the nut off the alternator pulley and loosen the crank pulley nut.
If you are familiar with the guys at a local shop, then they shouldn't have a problem with loosening the crank nut for you at no charge. Just turn the wheel all the way to the right, and there's an access point through the splash guard. Have them loosen it and retorque it lightly so you can take it off when you get back. Of course, once you've installed everything, go back and have them tighten it. My friend ended up buying air tools and a compressor in the middle of the installation, and it made the job a thousand times easier.
Contact Excelerate (Josh), or check the Group Buy section for his group buy. I think he still has it going on. Or you can talk to my guy Scott. I've bought numerous parts from him, and he's super reliable with good prices.
Some people will tell you about the harmonic balancer, and how the aftermarket pulleys don't have it. Don't worry about it. It's just a big myth, and it'll be fine. The only problem you could encounter is by running cheap parts, like AEM or the recently introduced Megan pulleys; these don't have a good reputation or no reputation at all, respectively. Just like all other rotating parts, they need to be balanced. If they are not, they will create an unbalanced momentum, and it WILL cause severe stress on the crankshaft. That's why I always recommend paying the extra bucks and going with the proven and reliable UR pulleys.
You can skimp out on rotors, pads, whatever. When it comes to the engine, don't cheap out, because it could cost you a lot in the end. Just my .02.
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